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Melville, Herman, 1819-1891 [1847], Omoo: a narrative of adventures in the south seas (Harper & Brothers, New York) [word count] [eaf274].
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p274-024 ADVENTURES IN THE SOUTH SEAS.

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In the summer of 1842, the author of this narrative, as a
sailor before the mast, visited the Marquesas Islands in an
American South Seaman. At the island of Nukuheva he left
his vessel, which afterward sailed without him. Wandering in
the interior, he came upon the valley of Typee, inhabited by
a primitive tribe of savages, from which valley a fellow-sailor
who accompanied him soon afterward effected his escape. The
author, however, was detained in an indulgent captivity for
about the space of four months; at the end of which period, he
escaped in a boat which visited the bay.

This boat belonged to a vessel in need of men, which had
recently touched at a neighboring harbor of the same island,
where the captain had been informed of the author's detention
in Typee. Desirous of adding to his crew, he sailed round
thither, and “hove to” off the mouth of the bay. As the Typees
were considered hostile, the boat, manned by “Taboo”
natives from the other harbor, was then sent in, with an interpreter
at their head, to procure the author's release. This was
finally accomplished, though not without peril to all concerned.
At the time of his escape, the author was suffering severely
from lameness.

The boat having gained the open sea, the ship appeared in
the distance. Here the present narrative opens.

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p274-026

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CHAPTER I. MY RECEPTION ABOARD.

It was in the middle of a bright tropical afternoon that we
made good our escape from the bay. The vessel we sought
lay with her main-topsail aback about a league from the land,
and was the only object that broke the broad expanse of the
ocean.

On approaching, she turned out to be a small, slatternly looking
craft, her hull and spars a dingy black, rigging all slack and
bleached nearly white, and every thing denoting an ill state of
affairs aboard. The four boats hanging from her sides proclaimed
her a whaler. Leaning carelessly over the bulwarks
were the sailors, wild, haggard-looking fellows in Scotch caps
and faded blue frocks; some of them with cheeks of a mottled
bronze, to which sickness soon changes the rich berry-brown
of a seaman's complexion in the tropics.

On the quarter-deck was one whom I took for the chief mate.
He wore a broad-brimmed Panama hat, and his spy-glass was
leveled as we advanced.

When we came alongside, a low cry ran fore and aft the
deck, and every body gazed at us with inquiring eyes. And
well they might. To say nothing of the savage boat's crew,
panting with excitement, all gesture and vociferation, my own
appearance was calculated to excite curiosity. A robe of the
native cloth was thrown over my shoulders, my hair and beard
were uncut, and I betrayed other evidences of my recent adventure.
Immediately on gaining the deck, they beset me on

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all sides with questions, the half of which I could not answer,
so incessantly were they put.

As an instance of the curious coincidences which often befall
the sailor, I must here mention, that two countenances before
me were familiar. One was that of an old man-of-war's-man,
whose acquaintance I had made in Rio de Janeiro, at which
place touched the ship in which I sailed from home. The
other was a young man, whom, four years previous, I had frequently
met in a sailor boarding-house in Liverpool. I remembered
parting with him at Prince's Dock Gates, in the
midst of a swarm of police-officers, truckmen, stevedores, beggars,
and the like. And here we were again:—years had rolled
by, many a league of ocean had been traversed, and we were
thrown together under circumstances which almost made me
doubt my own existence.

But a few moments passed ere I was sent for into the cabin
by the captain.

He was quite a young man, pale and slender, more like a
sickly counting-house clerk than a bluff sea-captain. Bidding
me be seated, he ordered the steward to hand me a glass of
Pisco.[1] In the state I was, this stimulus almost made me delirious;
so that of all I then went on to relate concerning my
residence on the island I can scarcely remember a word.
After this I was asked whether I desired to “ship;” of course I
said yes; that is, if he would allow me to enter for one cruise,
engaging to discharge me, if I so desired, at the next port. In
this way men are frequently shipped on board whalemen in
the South Seas. My stipulation was acceded to, and the ship's
articles handed me to sign.

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The mate was now called below, and charged to make a “well
man” of me; not, let it be borne in mind, that the captain felt
any great compassion for me, he only desired to have the benefit
of my services as soon as possible.

Helping me on deck, the mate stretched me out on the windlass
and commenced examining my limb; and then doctoring
it after a fashion with something from the medicine-chest, rolled
it up in a piece of an old sail, making so big a bundle, that
with my feet resting on the windlass, I might have been taken
for a sailor with the gout. While this was going on, some one
removing my tappa cloak slipped on a blue frock in its place;
and another, actuated by the same desire to make a civilized
mortal of me, flourished about my head a great pair of sheepshears,
to the imminent jeopardy of both ears, and the certain
destruction of hair and beard.

The day was now drawing to a close, and, as the land faded
from my sight, I was all alive to the change in my condition.
But how far short of our expectations is oftentimes the fulfillment
of the most ardent hopes. Safe aboard of a ship—so long
my earnest prayer—with home and friends once more in prospect,
I nevertheless felt weighed down by a melancholy that
could not be shaken off. It was the thought of never more
seeing those, who, notwithstanding their desire to retain me
a captive, had, upon the whole, treated me so kindly. I was
leaving them forever.

So unforeseen and sudden had been my escape, so excited
had I been through it all, and so great the contrast between
the luxurious repose of the valley, and the wild noise and motion
of a ship at sea, that at times my recent adventures had all
the strangeness of a dream; and I could scarcely believe that
the same sun now setting over a waste of waters, had that very
morning risen above the mountains and peered in upon me as
I lay on my mat in Typee.

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Going below into the forecastle just after dark, I was inducted
into a wretched “bunk” or sleeping-box built over another.
The rickety bottoms of both were spread with several
pieces of a blanket. A battered tin can was then handed me,
containing about half a pint of “tea”—so called by courtesy,
though whether the juice of such stalks as one finds floating
therein deserves that title, is a matter all ship-owners must settle
with their consciences. A cube of salt beef, on a hard round
biscuit by way of platter, was also handed up; and without
more ado, I made a meal, the salt flavor of which, after the
Nebuchadnezzar fare of the valley, was positively delicious.

While thus engaged, an old sailor on a chest just under me
was puffing out volumes of tobacco smoke. My supper finished,
he brushed the stem of his sooty pipe against the sleeve of
his frock, and politely waved it toward me. The attention was
sailor-like; as for the nicety of the thing, no man who has
lived in forecastles is at all fastidious; and so, after a few
vigorous whiffs to induce repose, I turned over and tried
my best to forget myself. But in vain. My crib, instead of
extending fore and aft, as it should have done, was placed
athwartships, that is, at right angles to the keel; and the
vessel going before the wind, rolled to such a degree, that
every time my heels went up and my head went down, I
thought I was on the point of turning a somerset. Beside this,
there were still more annoying causes of inquietude; and,
every once in a while, a splash of water came down the open
scuttle, and flung the spray in my face.

At last, after a sleepless night, broken twice by the merciless
call of the watch, a peep of daylight struggled into view from
above, and some one came below. It was my old friend with
the pipe.

“Here, shipmate,” said I, “help me out of this place, and let
me go on deck.”

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“Halloa, who's that croaking?” was the rejoinder, as he
peered into the obscurity where I lay. “Ay, Typee, my king
of the cannibals, is it you! But I say, my lad, how's that spar
of your'n? the mate says it's in a devil of a way; and last night
set the steward to sharpening the handsaw: hope he won't
have the carving of ye.”

Long before daylight we arrived off the bay of Nukuheva,
and making short tacks until morning, we then ran in, and sent
a boat ashore with the natives who had brought me to the ship.
Upon its return, we made sail again, and stood off from the
land. There was a fine breeze; and, notwithstanding my bad
night's rest, the cool, fresh air of a morning at sea was so bracing,
that, as soon as I breathed it, my spirits rose at once.

Seated upon the windlass the greater portion of the day,
and chatting freely with the men, I learned the history of the
voyage thus far, and every thing respecting the ship and its
present condition.

These matters I will now throw together in the next chapter.

eaf274.n1

[1] This spirituous liquor derives its name from a considerable town in
Peru, where it is manufactured in large quantities. It is well known along
the whole western coast of South America, whence some of it has been
exported to Australia. It is very cheap.

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p274-031 CHAPTER II. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE SHIP.

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First and foremost, I must give some account of the Julia
herself; or “Little Jule,” as the sailors familiarly styled her.

She was a small barque of a beautiful model, something more
than two hundred tons, Yankee-built and very old. Fitted for
a privateer out of a New England port during the war of
1812, she had been captured at sea by a British cruiser, and,
after seeing all sorts of service, was at last employed as a government
packet in the Australian seas. Being condemned,
however, about two years previous, she was purchased at auction
by a house in Sydney, who, after some slight repairs, dispatched
her on the present voyage.

Notwithstanding the repairs, she was still in a miserable
plight. The lower masts were said to be unsound; the standing
rigging was much worn; and, in some places, even the
bulwarks were quite rotten. Still, she was tolerably tight, and
but little more than the ordinary pumping of a morning served
to keep her free.

But all this had nothing to do with her sailing; at that, brave
Little Jule, plump Little Jule, was a witch. Blow high, or
blow low, she was always ready for the breeze; and when she
dashed the waves from her prow, and pranced, and pawed the
sea, you never thought of her patched sails and blistered hull.
How the fleet creature would fly before the wind! rolling, now
and then, to be sure, but in very playfulness. Sailing to windward,
no gale could bow her over: with spars erect, she looked
right up into the wind's eye, and so she went.

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But after all, Little Jule was not to be confided in. Lively
enough, and playful she was, but on that very account the
more to be distrusted. Who knew, but that like some vivacious
old mortal all at once sinking into a decline, she might,
some dark night, spring a leak and carry us all to the bottom.
However, she played us no such ugly trick, and therefore, I
wrong Little Jule in supposing it.

She had a free, roving commission. According to her
papers she might go whither she pleased—whaling, sealing,
or any thing else. Sperm whaling, however, was what she
relied upon; though, as yet, only two fish had been brought
alongside.

The day they sailed out of Sydney Heads, the ship's company,
all told, numbered some thirty-two souls; now, they
mustered about twenty; the rest had deserted. Even the
three junior mates who had headed the whale boats were
gone; and of the four harpooners, only one was left, a wild
New Zealander, or “Mowree,” as his countrymen are more
commonly called in the Pacific. But this was not all. More
than half the seamen remaining were more or less unwell from
a long sojourn in a dissipated port; some of them wholly unfit
for duty, one or two dangerously ill, and the rest managing to
stand their watch though they could do but little.

The captain was a young cockney, who, a few years before,
had emigrated to Australia, and, by some favoritism or other,
had procured the command of the vessel, though in no wise competent.
He was essentially a landsman, and though a man of education,
no more meant for the sea than a hair-dresser. Hence
every body made fun of him. They called him “The Cabin
Boy,” “Paper Jack,” and half a dozen other undignified names.
In truth, the men made no secret of the derision in which
they held him; and as for the slender gentleman himself, he
knew it all very well, and bore himself with becoming

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meekness. Holding as little intercourse with them as possible, he
left every thing to the chief mate, who, as the story went,
had been given his captain in charge. Yet, despite his apparent
unobtrusiveness, the silent captain had more to do with
the men than they thought. In short, although one of your
sheepish-looking fellows, he had a sort of still, timid cunning,
which no one would have suspected, and which, for that very
reason, was all the more active. So the bluff mate, who
always thought he did what he pleased, was occasionally made
a tool of; and some obnoxious measures which he carried out,
in spite of all growlings, were little thought to originate with
the dapper little fellow in nankeen jacket and white canvas
pumps. But, to all appearance, at least, the mate had every
thing his own way; indeed, in most things this was actually
the case; and it was quite plain that the captain stood in awe
of him.

So far as courage, seamanship, and a natural aptitude for
keeping riotous spirits in subjection were concerned, no man
was better qualified for his vocation than John Jermin. He
was the very beau-ideal of the efficient race of short, thickset
men. His hair curled in little rings of iron gray all
over his round, bullet head. As for his countenance, it was
strongly marked, deeply pitted with the small-pox. For the
rest, there was a fierce little squint out of one eye; the nose
had a rakish twist to one side; while his large mouth, and
great white teeth, looked absolutely sharkish when he laughed.
In a word, no one, after getting a fair look at him, would
ever think of improving the shape of his nose, wanting in
symmetry if it was. Notwithstanding his pugnacious looks,
however, Jermin had a heart as big as a bullock's; that you
saw at a glance.

Such was our mate; but he had one failing: he abhorred all
weak infusions, and cleaved manfully to strong drink. At all

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times he was more or less under the influence of it. Taken in
moderate quantities, I believe, in my soul, it did a man like
him good; brightened his eyes, swept the cobwebs out of his
brain, and regulated his pulse. But the worst of it was, that
sometimes he drank too much, and a more obstreperous fellow
than Jermin in his cups, you seldom came across. He was
always for having a fight; but the very men he flogged loved
him as a brother, for he had such an irresistibly good-natured
way of knocking them down, that no one could find it in his
heart to bear malice against him. So much for stout little
Jermin.

All English whalemen are bound by law to carry a physician,
who, of course, is rated a gentleman, and lives in the cabin,
with nothing but his professional duties to attend to; but incidentally
he drinks “flip” and plays cards with the captain.
There was such a worthy aboard of the Julia; but, curious to
tell, he lived in the forecastle with the men. And this was the
way it happened.

In the early part of the voyage the doctor and the captain
lived together as pleasantly as could be. To say nothing of
many a can they drank over the cabin transom, both of them had
read books, and one of them had traveled; so their stories never
flagged. But once on a time they got into a dispute about politics,
and the doctor, moreover, getting into a rage, drove home an
argument with his fist, and left the captain on the floor literally
silenced. This was carrying it with a high hand; so he was
shut up in his state-room for ten days, and left to meditate on
bread and water, and the impropriety of flying into a passion.
Smarting under his disgrace, he undertook, a short time after
his liberation, to leave the vessel clandestinely at one of the
islands, but was brought back ignominiously, and again shut
up. Being set at large for the second time, he vowed he would
not live any longer with the captain, and went forward with

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his chests among the sailors, where he was received with open
arms, as a good fellow and an injured man.

I must give some further account of him, for he figures largely
in the narrative. His early history, like that of many other heroes,
was enveloped in the profoundest obscurity; though he
threw out hints of a patrimonial estate, a nabob uncle, and an
unfortunate affair which sent him a-roving. All that was known,
however, was this. He had gone out to Sydney as assistant-surgeon
of an emigrant ship. On his arrival there, he went back
into the country, and after a few months' wanderings, returned
to Sydney penniless, and entered as doctor aboard of the Julia.

His personal appearance was remarkable. He was over six
feet high—a tower of bones, with a complexion absolutely colorless,
fair hair, and a light, unscrupulous gray eye, twinkling
occasionally with the very devil of mischief. Among the crew,
he went by the name of the Long Doctor, or, more frequently
still, Doctor Long Ghost. And from whatever high estate
Doctor Long Ghost might have fallen, he had certainly at some
time or other spent money, drunk Burgundy, and associated
with gentlemen.

As for his learning, he quoted Virgil, and talked of Hobbes
of Malmsbury, beside repeating poetry by the canto, especially
Hudibras. He was, moreover, a man who had seen the world.
In the easiest way imaginable, he could refer to an amour he
had in Palermo, his lion hunting before breakfast among the
Caffres, and the quality of the coffee to be drunk in Muscat;
and about these places, and a hundred others, he had more anecdotes
than I can tell of. Then such mellow old songs as he sang,
in a voice so round and racy, the real juice of sound. How
such notes came forth from his lank body was a constant marvel.

Upon the whole, Long Ghost was as entertaining a companion
as one could wish; and to me in the Julia, an absolute
godsend.

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p274-036 CHAPTER III. FURTHER ACCOUNT OF THE JULIA.

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Owing to the absence of any thing like regular discipline,
the vessel was in a state of the greatest uproar. The captain,
having for some time past been more or less confined to the
cabin from sickness, was seldom seen. The mate, however,
was as hearty as a young lion, and ran about the decks making
himself heard at all hours. Bembo, the New Zealand harpooner,
held little intercourse with any body but the mate, who
could talk to him freely in his own lingo. Part of his time he
spent out on the bowsprit, fishing for albicores with a bone
hook; and occasionally he waked all hands up of a dark
night dancing some cannibal fandango all by himself on the
forecastle. But, upon the whole, he was remarkably quiet,
though something in his eye showed he was far from being
harmless.

Doctor Long Ghost, having sent in a written resignation as
the ship's doctor, gave himself out as a passenger for Sydney,
and took the world quite easy. As for the crew, those who
were sick seemed marvelously contented for men in their condition;
and the rest, not displeased with the general license,
gave themselves little thought of the morrow.

The Julia's provisions were very poor. When opened, the
barrels of pork looked as if preserved in iron rust, and diffused
an odor like a stale ragout. The beef was worse yet; a mahogany-colored
fibrous substance, so tough and tasteless, that I

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almost believed the cook's story of a horse's hoof with the shoe
on having been fished up out of the pickle of one of the casks.
Nor was the biscuit much better; nearly all of it was broken
into hard, little gunflints, honey-combed through and through,
as if the worms usually infesting this article in long tropical
voyages, had, in boring after nutriment, come out at the antipodes
without finding any thing.

Of what sailors call “small stores,” we had but little. “Tea,”
however, we had in abundance; though, I dare say, the Hong
merchants never had the shipping of it. Beside this, every
other day we had what English seamen call “shot soup”—
great round peas, polishing themselves like pebbles by rolling
about in tepid water.

It was afterward told me, that all our provisions had been
purchased by the owners at an auction sale of condemned navy
stores in Sydney.

But notwithstanding the wateriness of the first course of
soup, and the saline flavor of the beef and pork, a sailor
might have made a satisfactory meal aboard of the Julia had
there been any side dishes—a potato or two, a yam, or a
plantain. But there was nothing of the kind. Still, there was
something else, which, in the estimation of the men, made
up for all deficiencies; and that was the regular allowance of
Pisco.

It may seem strange, that in such a state of affairs the captain
should be willing to keep the sea with his ship. But the
truth was, that by lying in harbor, he ran the risk of losing
the remainder of his men by desertion; and as it was, he still
feared that, in some outlandish bay or other, he might one day
find his anchor down, and no crew to weigh it.

With judicious officers the most unruly seamen can at sea be
kept in some sort of subjection; but once get them within a cable's
length of the land, and it is hard restraining them. It is

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time, they must have recreated themselves sufficiently, and
would be glad to return to their duty.

So to Hytyhoo, with all our canvas spread, and coquetting
with the warm, breezy Trades we bowled along; gliding up
and down the long, slow swells, the bonettas and albicores frolicking
round us.

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p274-039 CHAPTER IV. A SCENE IN THE FORECASTLE.

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I had scarcely been aboard of the ship twenty-four hours,
when a circumstance occurred, which, although noways picturesque,
is so significant of the state of affairs, that I can not forbear
relating it.

In the first place, however, it must be known, that among the
crew was a man so excessively ugly, that he went by the ironical
appellation of “Beauty.” He was the ship's carpenter;
and for that reason was sometimes known by his nautical cognomen
of “Chips.” There was no absolute deformity about
the man; he was symmetrically ugly. But ill favored as he
was in person, Beauty was none the less ugly in temper; but
no one could blame him; his countenance had soured his heart.
Now Jermin and Beauty were always at sword's points. The
truth was, the latter was the only man in the ship whom the
mate had never decidedly got the better of; and hence the
grudge he bore him. As for Beauty, he prided himself upon
talking up to the mate, as we shall soon see.

Toward evening there was something to be done on deck
and the carpenter who belonged to the watch was missing
“Where's that skulk, Chips?” shouted Jermin down the fore
castle scuttle.

“Taking his ease, d'ye see, down here on a chest, if you want
to know,” replied that worthy himself, quietly withdrawing his
pipe from his mouth. This insolence flung the fiery little mate
into a mighty rage; but Beauty said nothing, puffing away

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with all the tranquillity imaginable. Here it must be remembered
that, never mind what may be the provocation, no prudent
officer ever dreams of entering a ship's forecastle on a
hostile visit. If he wants to see any body who happens to be
there, and refuses to come up, why he must wait patiently
until the sailor is willing. The reason is this. The place is
very dark; and nothing is easier than to knock one descending
on the head, before he knows where he is, and a very long
while before he ever finds out who did it.

Nobody knew this better than Jermin, and so he contented
himself with looking down the scuttle and storming. At last
Beauty made some cool observation which set him half wild.

“Tumble on deck,” he then bellowed—“come, up with you,
or I'll jump down and make you.” The carpenter begged him
to go about it at once.

No sooner said than done: prudence forgotten, Jermin was
there; and by a sort of instinct, had his man by the throat before
he could well see him. One of the men now made a rush
at him, but the rest dragged him off, protesting that they should
have fair play.

“Now, come on deck,” shouted the mate, struggling like a
good fellow to hold the carpenter fast.

“Take me there,” was the dogged answer, and Beauty wriggled
about in the nervous grasp of the other like a couple of
yards of boa-constrictor.

His assailant now undertook to make him up into a compact
bundle, the more easily to transport him. While thus occupied,
Beauty got his arms loose, and threw him over backward.
But Jermin quickly recovered himself, when for a time they
had it every way, dragging each other about, bumping their
heads against the projecting beams, and returning each other's
blows the first favorable opportunity that offered. Unfortunately,
Jermin at last slipped and fell; his foe seating himself on

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his chest, and keeping him down. Now this was one of those
situations in which the voice of counsel, or reproof, comes with
peculiar unction. Nor did Beauty let the opportunity slip.
But the mate said nothing in reply, only foaming at the mouth
and struggling to rise.

Just then a thin tremor of a voice was heard from above.
It was the captain; who, happening to ascend to the quarter-deck
at the commencement of the scuffle, would gladly have returned
to the cabin, but was prevented by the fear of ridicule. As the
din increased, and it became evident that his officer was in serious
trouble, he thought it would never do to stand leaning
over the bulwarks, so he made his appearance on the forecastle,
resolved, as his best policy, to treat the matter lightly.

“Why, why,” he began, speaking pettishly, and very fast,
“what's all this about?—Mr. Jermin, Mr. Jermin—carpenter,
carpenter; what are you doing down there? Come on deck;
come on deck.”

Whereupon Doctor Long Ghost cries out in a squeak, “Ah!
Miss Guy, is that you? Now, my dear, go right home, or
you'll get hurt.”

“Pooh, pooh! you, sir, whoever you are, I was not speaking
to you; none of your nonsense. Mr. Jermin, I was talking
to you; have the kindness to come on deck, sir; I want to
see you.”

“And how, in the devil's name, am I to get there?” cried
the mate, furiously. “Jump down here, Captain Guy, and
show yourself a man. Let me up, you Chips! unhand me, I
say! Oh! I'll pay you for this, some day! Come on, Captain
Guy!”

At this appeal, the poor man was seized with a perfect
spasm of fidgets. “Pooh, pooh, carpenter; have done with
your nonsense! Let him up, sir; let him up! Do you hear?
Let Mr. Jermin come on deck!”

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“Go along with you, Paper Jack,” replied Beauty; “this
quarrel's between the mate and me; so go aft, where you
belong!”

As the captain once more dipped his head down the scuttle
to make answer, from an unseen hand, he received, full in the
face, the contents of a tin can of soaked biscuit and tealeaves.
The doctor was not far off just then. Without waiting
for any thing more, the discomfited gentleman, with both
hands to his streaming face, retreated to the quarter-deck.

A few moments more, and Jermin, forced to a compromise,
followed after, in his torn frock and scarred face, looking for
all the world as if he had just disentangled himself from some
intricate piece of machinery. For about half an hour both
remained in the cabin, where the mate's rough tones were
heard high above the low, smooth voice of the captain.

Of all his conflicts with the men, this was the first in which
Jermin had been worsted; and he was proportionably enraged.
Upon going below — as the steward afterward told us — he
bluntly informed Guy that, for the future, he might look out
for his ship himself; for his part, he was done with her, if that
was the way he allowed his officers to be treated. After many
high words, the captain finally assured him, that the first fitting
opportunity the carpenter should be cordially flogged; though,
as matters stood, the experiment would be a hazardous one.
Upon this Jermin reluctantly consented to drop the matter for
the present; and he soon drowned all thoughts of it in a can
of flip, which Guy had previously instructed the steward to
prepare, as a sop to allay his wrath.

Nothing more ever came of this.

-- 036 --

p274-043 CHAPTER V. WHAT HAPPENED AT HYTYHOO.

[figure description] Page 036.[end figure description]

Less than forty-eight hours after leaving Nukuheva, the blue,
looming island of St. Christina greeted us from afar. Drawing
near the shore, the grim, black spars and waspish hull of a
small man-of-war craft crept into view; the masts and yards
lined distinctly against the sky. She was riding to her anchor
in the bay, and proved to be a French corvette.

This pleased our captain exceedingly, and, coming on deck,
he examined her from the mizzen rigging with his glass. His
original intention was not to let go an anchor; but, counting
upon the assistance of the corvette in case of any difficulty, he
now changed his mind, and anchored alongside of her. As
soon as a boat could be lowered, he then went off to pay his
respects to the commander, and, moreover, as we supposed, to
concert measures for the apprehension of the runaways.

Returning in the course of twenty minutes, he brought along
with him two officers in undress and whiskers, and three or four
drunken obstreperous old chiefs; one with his legs thrust into
the armholes of a scarlet vest, another with a pair of spurs on
his heels, and a third in a cocked hat and feather. In addition
to these articles, they merely wore the ordinary costume of
their race—a slip of native cloth about the loins. Indecorous
as their behavior was, these worthies turned out to be a deputation
from the reverend the clergy of the island; and the object
of their visit was to put our ship under a rigorous “Taboo,”
to prevent the disorderly scenes and facilities for desertion

-- 037 --

[figure description] Page 037.[end figure description]

which would ensue, were the natives—men and women—allowed
to come off to us freely.

There was little ceremony about the matter. The priests
went aside for a moment, laid their shaven old crowns together,
and went over a little mummery. Whereupon, their leader
tore a long strip from his girdle of white tappa, and handed it
to one of the French officers, who, after explaining what was
to be done, gave it to Jermin. The mate at once went out to
the end of the flying jib boom, and fastened there the mystic
symbol of the ban. This put to flight a party of girls who had
been observed swimming toward us. Tossing their arms about,
and splashing the water like porpoises, with loud cries of
“taboo! taboo!” they turned about and made for the shore.

The night of our arrival, the mate and the Mowree were to
stand “watch and watch,” relieving each other every four hours;
the crew, as is sometimes customary when lying at an anchor,
being allowed to remain all night below. A distrust of the men,
however, was, in the present instance, the principal reason for
this proceeding. Indeed, it was all but certain, that some kind
of attempt would be made at desertion; and, therefore, when
Jermin's first watch came on at eight bells (midnight) — by
which time all was quiet — he mounted to the deck with a
flash of spirits in one hand, and the other in readiness to assail
the first countenance that showed itself above the forecastle
scuttle.

Thus prepared, he doubtless meant to stay awake; but for
all that, he before long fell asleep; and slept with such hearty
good-will too, that the men who left us that night might have
been waked up by his snoring. Certain it was, the mate
snored most strangely; and no wonder, with that crooked
bugle of his. When he came to himself it was just dawn, but
quite light enough to show two boats gone from the side. In
an instant he knew what had happened.

-- 038 --

[figure description] Page 038.[end figure description]

Dragging the Mowree out of an old sail where he was napping,
he ordered him to clear away another boat, and then
darted into the cabin to tell the captain the news. Springing
on deck again, he dove down into the forecastle for a couple
of oarsmen, but hardly got there before there was a cry, and a
loud splash heard over the side. It was the Mowree and the
boat—into which he had just leaped to get ready for lowering—
rolling over and over in the water.

The boat having at nightfall been hoisted up to its place
over the starboard quarter, some one had so cut the tackles
which held it there, that a moderate strain would at once part
them. Bembo's weight had answered the purpose, showing
that the deserters must have ascertained his specific gravity to a
fibre of hemp. There was another boat remaining; but it was
as well to examine it before attempting to lower. And it was
well they did; for there was a hole in the bottom large enough
to drop a barrel through: she had been scuttled most ruthlessly.

Jermin was frantic. Dashing his hat upon deck, he was
about to plunge overboard and swim to the corvette for a
cutter, when Captain Guy made his appearance and begged
him to stay where he was. By this time the officer of the
deck aboard the Frenchman had noticed our movements, and
hailed to know what had happened. Guy informed him
through his trumpet, and men to go in pursuit were instantly
promised. There was a whistling of a boatswain's pipe, an
order or two, and then a large cutter pulled out from the man-of-war's
stern, and in half a dozen strokes was alongside.
The mate leaped into her, and they pulled rapidly ashore.

Another cutter, carrying an armed crew, soon followed.

In an hour's time the first returned, towing the two whale
boats, which had been found turned up like tortoises on the
beach.

-- 039 --

[figure description] Page 039.[end figure description]

Noon came, and nothing more was heard from the deserters.
Meanwhile Doctor Long Ghost and myself lounged about, cultivating
an acquaintance, and gazing upon the shore scenery.
The bay was as calm as death; the sun high and hot; and
occasionally a still gliding canoe stole out from behind the
headlands, and shot across the water.

And all the morning long our sick men limped about the
deck, casting wistful glances inland, where the palm-trees
waved and beckoned them into their reviving shades. Poor
invalid rascals! How conducive to the restoration of their
shattered health would have been those delicious groves! But
hard-hearted Jermin assured them, with an oath, that foot of
theirs should never touch the beach.

Toward sunset a crowd was seen coming down to the water.
In advance of all were the fugitives—bareheaded—their frocks
and trowsers hanging in tatters, every face covered with blood
and dust, and their arms pinioned behind them with green thongs.
Following them up, was a shouting rabble of islanders, pricking
them with the points of their long spears, the party from the
corvette menacing them in flank with their naked cutlasses.

The bonus of a musket to the King of the Bay, and the
promise of a tumbler full of powder for every man caught, had
set the whole population on their track; and so successful was
the hunt, that not only were that morning's deserters brought
back, but five of those left behind on a former visit. The
natives, however, were the mere hounds of the chase, raising
the game in their coverts, but leaving the securing of it to the
Frenchmen. Here, as elsewhere, the islanders have no idea
of taking part in such a scuffle as ensues upon the capture of a
party of desperate seamen.

The runaways were at once brought aboard, and, though
they looked rather sulky, soon came round, and treated the
whole affair as a frolicsome adventure.

-- 040 --

p274-047 CHAPTER VI. WE TOUCH AT LA DOMINICA.

[figure description] Page 040.[end figure description]

Fearful of spending another night in Hytyhoo, Captain
Guy caused the ship to be got under way shortly after dark.

The next morning, when all supposed that we were fairly
embarked for a long cruise, our course was suddenly altered for
La Dominica, or Hivarhoo, an island just north of the one we
had quitted. The object of this, as we learned, was to procure,
if possible, several English sailors, who, according to the commander
of the corvette, had recently gone ashore there from an
American whaler and were desirous of shipping aboard of one
of their own country vessels.

We made the land in the afternoon, coming abreast of a
shady glen opening from a deep bay, and winding by green
defiles far out of sight. “Hands by the weather-main-brace!”
roared the mate, jumping up on the bulwarks; and in a moment
the prancing Julia, suddenly arrested in her course,
bridled her head like a steed reined in, while the foam flaked
under her bows.

This was the place where we expected to obtain the men; so
a boat was at once got in readiness to go ashore. Now it was
necessary to provide a picked crew—men the least likely to
abscond. After considerable deliberation on the part of the
captain and mate, four of the seamen were pitched upon as the
most trustworthy; or rather they were selected from a choice
assortment of suspicious characters as being of an inferior order
of rascality.

-- 041 --

[figure description] Page 041.[end figure description]

Armed with cutlasses all round—the natives were said to be
an ugly set—they were followed over the side by the invalid
captain, who, on this occasion, it seems, was determined to signalize
himself. Accordingly, in addition to his cutlass, he wore
an old boarding belt, in which was thrust a brace of pistols.
They at once shoved off.

My friend Long Ghost had, among other things which looked
somewhat strange in a ship's forecastle, a capital spy-glass, and
on the present occasion we had it in use.

When the boat neared the head of the inlet, though invisible
to the naked eye, it was plainly revealed by the glass; looking
no bigger than an egg-shell, and the men diminished to pigmies.

At last, borne on what seemed a long flake of foam the tiny
craft shot up the beach amid a shower of sparkles. Not a soul
was there. Leaving one of their number by the water, the
rest of the pigmies stepped ashore, looking about them very
circumspectly, pausing now and then hand to ear, and peering
under a dense grove which swept down within a few paces of
the sea. No one came, and to all appearances every thing was
as still as the grave. Presently, he with the pistols, followed
by the rest flourishing their bodkins, entered the wood and
were soon lost to view. They did not stay long; probably
anticipating some inhospitable ambush were they to stray any
distance up the glen.

In a few moments they embarked again, and were soon riding
pertly over the waves of the bay. All of a sudden the captain
started to his feet—the boat spun round, and again made for
the shore. Some twenty or thirty natives armed with spears
which through the glass looked like reeds, had just come out
of the grove, and were apparently shouting to the strangers not
to be in such a hurry, but return and be sociable. But they
were somewhat distrusted, for the boat paused about its length

-- 042 --

[figure description] Page 042.[end figure description]

from the beach, when the captain standing up in its head delivered
an address in pantomime, the object of which seemed
to be, that the islanders should draw near. One of them
stepped forward and made answer, seemingly again urging the
strangers not to be diffident, but beach their boat. The captain
declined, tossing his arms about in another pantomime. In the
end he said something which made them shake their spears;
whereupon he fired a pistol among them, which set the whole
party running; while one poor little fellow, dropping his spear
and clapping his hand behind him, limped away in a manner
which almost made me itch to get a shot at his assailant.

Wanton acts of cruelty like this are not unusual on the part
of sea captains landing at islands comparatively unknown.
Even at the Pomotu group, but a day's sail from Tahiti, the
islanders coming down to the shore have several times been
fired at by trading schooners passing through their narrow
channels; and this too as a mere amusement on the part of the
ruffians.

Indeed, it is almost incredible, the light in which many sailors
regard these naked heathens. They hardly consider them human.
But it is a curious fact, that the more ignorant and
degraded men are, the more contemptuously they look upon
those whom they deem their inferiors.

All powers of persuasion being thus lost upon these foolish
savages, and no hope left of holding further intercourse, the
boat returned to the ship.

-- 043 --

p274-050 CHAPTER VII. WHAT HAPPENED AT HANNAMANOO.

[figure description] Page 043.[end figure description]

On the other side of the island was the large and populous
bay of Hannamanoo, where the men sought might yet be found.
But as the sun was setting by the time the boat came alongside,
we got our off-shore tacks aboard and stood away for an
offing. About daybreak we wore, and ran in, and by the time
the sun was well up, entered the long, narrow channel dividing
the islands of La Dominica and St. Christina.

On one hand was a range of steep green bluffs hundreds of
feet high, the white huts of the natives here and there nestling
like birdsnests in deep clefts gushing with verdure. Across
the water, the land rolled away in bright hillsides, so warm
and undulating, that they seemed almost to palpitate in the sun.
On we swept, past bluff and grove, wooded glen and valley,
and dark ravines lighted up far inland with wild falls of water.
A fresh land-breeze filled our sails, the embayed waters were
gentle as a lake, and every blue wave broke with a tinkle
against our coppered prow.

On gaining the end of the channel we rounded a point, and
came full upon the bay of Hannamanoo. This is the only harbor
of any note about the island, though as far as a safe anchorage
is concerned it hardly deserves the title.

Before we held any communication with the shore, an incident
occurred which may convey some further idea of the character
of our crew.

Having approached as near the land as we could prudently,

-- 044 --

[figure description] Page 044.[end figure description]

our headway was stopped, and we awaited the arrival of a
canoe which was coming out of the bay. All at once we got
into a strong current, which swept us rapidly toward a rocky
promontory forming one side of the harbor. The wind had
died away; so two boats were at once lowered for the purpose
of pulling the ship's head round. Before this could be done,
the eddies were whirling upon all sides, and the rock so near,
that it seemed as if one might leap upon it from the mast-head.
Notwithstanding the speechless fright of the captain, and the
hoarse shouts of the unappalled Jermin, the men handled the
ropes as deliberately as possible, some of them chuckling at the
prospect of going ashore, and others so eager for the vessel to
strike, that they could hardly contain themselves. Unexpectedly
a countercurrent befriended us, and assisted by the boats
we were soon out of danger.

What a disappointment for our crew! All their little plans
for swimming ashore from the wreck, and having a fine time of
it for the rest of their days, thus cruelly nipt in the bud.

Soon after, the canoe came alongside. In it were eight or
ten natives, comely, vivacious-looking youths, all gesture and
exclamation; the red feathers in their headbands perpetually
nodding. With them also came a stranger, a renegado from
Christendom and humanity—a white man, in the South Sea
girdle, and tattooed in the face. A broad blue band stretched
across his face from ear to ear, and on his forehead was
the taper figure of a blue shark, nothing but fins from head to
tail.

Some of us gazed upon this man with a feeling akin to horror,
no ways abated when informed that he had voluntarily
submitted to this embellishment of his countenance. What an
impress! Far worse than Cain's—his was perhaps a wrinkle,
or a freckle, which some of our modern cosmetics might have
effaced; but the blue shark was a mark indelible, which all the

-- 045 --

[figure description] Page 045.[end figure description]

waters of Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, could never
wash out. He was an Englishman, Lem Hardy he called himself,
who had deserted from a trading brig touching at the island
for wood and water some ten years previous. He had gone
ashore as a sovereign power, armed with a musket and a bag
of ammunition, and ready, if need were, to prosecute war on
his own account. The country was divided by the hostile
kings of several large valleys. With one of them, from whom
he first received overtures, he formed an alliance, and became
what he now was, the military leader of the tribe, and war-god
of the entire island.

His campaigns beat Napoleon's. In one night-attack, his
invincible musket, backed by the light infantry of spears and
javelins, vanquished two clans, and the next morning brought
all the others at the feet of his royal ally.

Nor was the rise of his domestic fortunes at all behind the
Corsican's: three days after landing, the exquisitely tattooed
hand of a princess was his; receiving along with the damsel as
her portion, one thousand fathoms of fine tappa, fifty double-braided
mats of split grass, four hundred hogs, ten houses in
different parts of her native valley, and the sacred protection of
an express edict of the Taboo, declaring his person inviolable
forever.

Now, this man was settled for life, perfectly satisfied with his
circumstances, and feeling no desire to return to his friends.
“Friends,” indeed, he had none. He told me his history.
Thrown upon the world a foundling, his paternal origin was as
much a mystery to him as the genealogy of Odin; and, scorned
by every body, he fled the parish workhouse when a boy,
and lanched upon the sea. He had followed it for several
years, a dog before the mast, and now he had thrown it up
forever.

And for the most part, it is just this sort of men—so many

-- 046 --

[figure description] Page 046.[end figure description]

of whom are found among sailors—uncared for by a single
soul, without ties, reckless, and impatient of the restraints
of civilization, who are occasionally found quite at home
upon the savage islands of the Pacific. And, glancing at
their hard lot in their own country, what marvel at their
choice?

According to the renegado, there was no other white man on
the island; and as the captain could have no reason to suppose
that Hardy intended to deceive us, he concluded that the
Frenchmen were in some way or other mistaken in what they
had told us. However, when our errand was made known to the
rest of our visitors, one of them, a fine, stalwart fellow, his face
all eyes and expression, volunteered for a cruise. All the wages
he asked, was a red shirt, a pair of trowsers, and a hat,
which were to be put on there and then; beside a plug of
tobacco and a pipe. The bargain was struck directly; but
Wymontoo afterward came in with a codicil, to the effect that
a friend of his, who had come along with him, should be given
ten whole sea-biscuits, without crack or flaw, twenty perfectly
new and symmetrically straight nails, and one jackknife. This
being agreed to, the articles were at once handed over, the
native receiving them with great avidity, and in the absence of
clothing, using his mouth as a pocket to put the nails in. Two
of them, however, were first made to take the place of a pair
of ear-ornaments, curiously fashioned out of bits of whitened
wood.

It now began breezing strongly from seaward, and no time
was to be lost in getting away from the land; so after an affecting
rubbing of noses between our new shipmate and his countrymen,
we sailed away with him.

To our surprise, the farewell shouts from the canoe, as we
dashed along under bellied royals, were heard unmoved by
our islander; but it was not long thus. That very evening,

-- 047 --

[figure description] Page 047.[end figure description]

when the dark blue of his native hills sunk in the horizon, the
poor savage leaned over the bulwarks, dropped his head upon
his chest, and gave way to irrepressible emotions. The ship
was plunging hard, and Wymontoo, sad to tell, in addition to
his other pangs, was terribly sea-sick.

-- 048 --

p274-055 CHAPTER VIII. THE TATTOOERS OF LA DOMINICA.

[figure description] Page 048.[end figure description]

For a while leaving Little Jule to sail away by herself, I will
here put down some curious information obtained from Hardy.

The renegado had lived so long on the island, that its customs
were quite familiar; and I much lamented that, from the shortness
of our stay, he could not tell us more than he did.

From the little intelligence gathered, however, I learned to
my surprise that, in some things, the people of Hivarhoo, though
of the same group of islands, differed considerably from my
tropical friends in the valley of Typee.

As his tattooing attracted so much remark, Hardy had a good
deal to say concerning the manner in which that art was practiced
upon the island.

Throughout the entire cluster the tattooers of Hivarhoo enjoyed
no small reputation. They had carried their art to the
highest perfection, and the profession was esteemed most honorable.
No wonder, then, that like genteel tailors, they rated
their services very high; so much so, that none but those belonging
to the higher classes could afford to employ them. So
true was this, that the elegance of one's tattooing was in most
cases a sure indication of birth and riches.

Professors in large practice lived in spacious houses, divided
by screens of tappa into numerous little apartments, where
subjects were waited upon in private. The arrangement
chiefly grew out of a singular ordinance of the Taboo, which
enjoined the strictest privacy upon all men, high and low, while

-- 049 --

[figure description] Page 049.[end figure description]

under the hands of a tattooer. For the time, the slightest intercourse
with others is prohibited, and the small portion of
food allowed, is pushed under the curtain by an unseen hand.
The restriction with regard to food, is intended to reduce the
blood, so as to diminish the inflammation consequent upon puncturing
the skin. As it is, this comes on very soon, and takes
some time to heal; so that the period of seclusion generally
embraces many days, sometimes several weeks.

All traces of soreness vanished, the subject goes abroad; but
only again to return; for, on account of the pain, only a small
surface can be operated upon at once; and as the whole body
is to be more or less embellished by a process so slow, the studios
alluded to are constantly filled. Indeed, with a vanity
elsewhere unheard of, many spend no small portion of their
days thus sitting to an artist.

To begin the work, the period of adolescence is esteemed
the most suitable. After casting about for some eminent tattooer,
the friends of the youth take him to his house, to have the outlines
of the general plan laid out. It behooves the professor to
have a nice eye, for a suit to be worn for life should be well
cut.

Some tattooers, yearning after perfection, employ, at large
wages, one or two men of the commonest order—vile fellows,
utterly regardless of appearances, upon whom they first try
their patterns and practice generally. Their backs remorselessly
scrawled over, and no more canvas remaining, they are
dismissed, and ever after go about, the scorn of their countrymen.

Hapless wights! thus martyred in the cause of the Fine Arts.

Beside the regular practitioners, there are a parcel of shabby,
itinerant tattooers, who, by virtue of their calling, stroll unmolested
from one hostile bay to another, doing their work dogcheap
for the multitude. They always repair to the various

-- 050 --

[figure description] Page 050.[end figure description]

religious festivals, which gather great crowds. When these are
concluded, and the places where they are held vacated even by
the tattooers, scores of little tents of coarse tappa are left standing,
each with a solitary inmate, who, forbidden to talk to his
unseen neighbors, is obliged to stay there till completely healed.
The itinerants are a reproach to their profession, mere
cobblers, dealing in nothing but jagged lines and clumsy
patches, and utterly incapable of soaring to those heights of
fancy attained by the gentlemen of the faculty.

All professors of the arts love to fraternize; and so, in Hannamanoo,
the tattooers came together in the chapters of their
worshipful order. In this society, duly organized, and conferring
degrees, Hardy, from his influence as a white, was a sort of
honorary Grand Master. The blue shark, and a sort of Urim
and Thummim engraven upon his chest, were the seal of his
initiation. All over Hivarhoo are established these orders of
tattooers. The way in which the renegado's came to be founded
is this. A year or two after his landing there happened to
be a season of scarcity, owing to the partial failure of the bread-fruit
harvest for several consecutive seasons. This brought
about such a falling off in the number of subjects for tattooing,
that the profession became quite needy. The royal ally of
Hardy, however, hit upon a benevolent expedient to provide
for their wants, at the same time conferring a boon upon many
of his subjects.

By sound of conch-shell it was proclaimed before the palace,
on the beach, and at the head of the valley, that Noomai, King
of Hannamanoo, and friend of Hardee-Hardee, the white,
kept open heart and table for all tattooers whatsoever; but to
entitle themselves to this hospitality, they were commanded to
practice without fee upon the meanest native soliciting their
services.

Numbers at once flocked to the royal abode, both artists and

-- 051 --

[figure description] Page 051.[end figure description]

sitters. It was a famous time; and the buildings of the palace
being “taboo” to all but the tattooers and chiefs, the sitters bivouacked
on the common, and formed an extensive encampment.

The “Lora Tattoo,” or the Time of Tattooing, will be long remembered.
An enthusiastic sitter celebrated the event in
verse. Several lines were repeated to us by Hardy, some of
which, in a sort of colloquial chant he translated nearly thus:



“Where is that sound?
In Hannamanoo.
And wherefore that sound?
The sound of a hundred hammers,
Tapping, tapping, tapping
The shark teeth.[2]
“Where is that light?
Round about the king's house.
And the small laughter?
The small, merry laughter it is
Of the sons and daughters of the tattooed.”

eaf274.n2

[2] The coloring matter is inserted by means of a shark's tooth attached
to the end of a short stick, which is struck upon the other end with a small
mallet of wood.

-- 052 --

p274-059 CHAPTER IX. WE STEER TO THE WESTWARD—STATE OF AFFAIRS.

[figure description] Page 052.[end figure description]

The night we left Hannamanoo was bright and starry, and
so warm, that when the watches were relieved, most of the men,
instead of going below, flung themselves around the foremast.

Toward morning, finding the heat of the forecastle unpleasant,
I ascended to the deck where every thing was noiseless. The
Trades were blowing with a mild, steady strain upon the canvas,
and the ship heading right out into the immense blank of
the Western Pacific. The watch were asleep. With one foot
resting on the rudder, even the man at the helm nodded, and the
mate himself, with arms folded, was leaning against the capstan.

On such a night, and all alone, revery was inevitable. I
leaned over the side, and could not help thinking of the strange
objects we might be sailing over.

But my meditations were soon interrupted by a gray, spectral
shadow cast over the heaving billows. It was the dawn,
soon followed by the first rays of the morning. They flashed
into view at one end of the arched night, like—to compare great
things with small—the gleamings of Guy Fawkes's lantern in
the vaults of the Parliament House. Before long, what seemed
a live ember rested for a moment on the rim of the ocean, and
at last the blood-red sun stood full and round in the level East,
and the long sea-day began.

Breakfast over, the first thing attended to was the formal
baptism of Wymontoo, who, after thinking over his affairs during
the night, looked dismal enough.

-- 053 --

[figure description] Page 053.[end figure description]

There were various opinions as to a suitable appellation.
Some maintained that we ought to call him “Sunday,” that
being the day we caught him; others, “Eighteen Forty-two,”
the then year of our Lord; while Doctor Long Ghost remarked,
that he ought, by all means, to retain his original name,—Wymontoo-Hee,
meaning (as he maintained), in the figurative language
of the island, something analogous to one who had got
himself into a scrape. The mate put an end to the discussion
by sousing the poor fellow with a bucket of salt water, and be-stowing
upon him the nautical appellation of “Luff.”

Though a certain mirthfulness succeeded his first pangs at
leaving home, Wymontoo—we will call him thus—gradually
relapsed into his former mood, and became very melancholy.
Often I noticed him crouching apart in the forecastle, his strange
eyes gleaming restlessly, and watching the slightest movement
of the men. Many a time he must have been thinking of his
bamboo hut, when they were talking of Sydney and its dancehouses.

We were now fairly at sea, though to what particular cruising-ground
we were going, no one knew; and, to all appearances,
few cared. The men, after a fashion of their own, began
to settle down into the routine of sea-life, as if every thing was
going on prosperously. Blown along over a smooth sea, there
was nothing to do but steer the ship, and relieve the “lookouts”
at the mast-heads. As for the sick, they had two or three more
added to their number—the air of the island having disagreed
with the constitutions of several of the runaways. To crown
all, the captain again relapsed, and became quite ill.

The men fit for duty were divided into two small watches,
headed respectively by the mate and the Mowree; the latter,
by virtue of his being a harponeer, succeeding to the place
of the second mate, who had absconded.

In this state of things whaling was out of the question; but

-- 054 --

[figure description] Page 054.[end figure description]

in the face of every thing, Jermin maintained that the invalids
would soon be well. However that might be, with the same
pale blue sky overhead, we kept running steadily to the
westward. Forever advancing, we seemed always in the
same place, and every day was the former lived over again.
We saw no ships, expected to see none. No sign of life was
perceptible but the porpoises and other fish sporting under the
bows like pups ashore. But, at intervals, the gray albatros,
peculiar to these seas, came flapping his immense wings over
us, and then skimmed away silently as if from a plague-ship.
Or flights of the tropic bird, known among seamen as the
“boatswain,” wheeled round and round us, whistling shrilly
as they flew.

The uncertainty hanging over our destination at this time,
and the fact that we were abroad upon waters comparatively
little traversed, lent an interest to this portion of the cruise
which I shall never forget.

From obvious prudential considerations the Pacific has been
principally sailed over in known tracts, and this is the reason
why new islands are still occasionally discovered, by exploring
ships and adventurous whalers, notwithstanding the great number
of vessels of all kinds of late navigating this vast ocean. Indeed,
considerable portions still remain wholly unexplored; and
there is doubt as to the actual existence of certain shoals, and
reefs, and small clusters of islands vaguely laid down in the
charts. The mere circumstance, therefore, of a ship like ours
penetrating into these regions, was sufficient to cause any reflecting
mind to feel at least a little uneasy. For my own part,
the many stories I had heard of ships striking at midnight upon
unknown rocks, with all sail set, and a slumbering crew, often
recurred to me, especially, as from the absence of discipline,
and our being so short-handed, the watches at night were
careless in the extreme.

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[figure description] Page 055.[end figure description]

But no thoughts like these were entertained by my reckless
shipmates; and along we went, the sun every evening setting
right ahead of our jib boom.

For what reason the mate was so reserved with regard to
our precise destination was never made known. The stories
he told us, I, for one, did not believe; deeming them all a
mere device to lull the crew.

He said we were bound to a fine cruising ground, scarcely
known to other whalemen, which he had himself discovered
when commanding a small brig upon a former voyage. Here,
the sea was alive with large whales, so tame, that all you had
to do was to go up and kill them: they were too frightened to
resist. A little to leeward of this was a small cluster of islands,
where we were going to refit, abounding with delicious fruits,
and peopled by a race almost wholly unsophisticated by intercourse
with strangers.

In order, perhaps, to guard against the possibility of any
one finding out the precise latitude and longitude of the spot
we were going to, Jermin never revealed to us the ship's place
at noon, though such is the custom aboard of most vessels.

Meanwhile, he was very assiduous in his attention to the
invalids. Doctor Long Ghost having given up the keys of the
medicine-chest, they were handed over to him; and, as physician,
he discharged his duties to the satisfaction of all. Pills
and powders, in most cases, were thrown to the fish, and in
place thereof, the contents of a mysterious little quarter cask
were produced, diluted with water from the “butt.” His
draughts were mixed on the capstan, in cocoa-nut shells
marked with the patients' names. Like shore doctors, he did
not eschew his own medicines, for his professional calls in the
forecastle were sometimes made when he was comfortably tipsy:
nor did he omit keeping his invalids in good-humor, spinning
his yarns to them, by the hour, whenever he went to see them.

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[figure description] Page 056.[end figure description]

Owing to my lameness, from which I soon began to recover,
I did no active duty, except standing an occasional “trick” at
the helm. It was in the forecastle chiefly, that I spent my
time, in company with the Long Doctor, who was at great
pains to make himself agreeable. His books, though sadly
torn and battered, were an invaluable resource. I read them
through again and again, including a learned treatise on the
yellow fever. In addition to these, he had an old file of
Sydney papers, and I soon became intimately acquainted with
the localities of all the advertising tradesmen there. In particular,
the rhetorical flourishes of Stubbs, the real-estate
auctioneer, diverted me exceedingly, and I set him down as
no other than a pupil of Robins the Londoner.

Aside from the pleasure of his society, my intimacy with
Long Ghost was of great service to me in other respects. His
disgrace in the cabin only confirmed the good-will of the
democracy in the forecastle; and they not only treated him in
the most friendly manner, but looked up to him with the
utmost deference, besides laughing heartily at all his jokes
As his chosen associate, this feeling for him extended to me,
and gradually we came to be regarded in the light of distinguished
guests. At meal-times we were always first served,
and otherwise were treated with much respect.

Among other devices to kill time, during the frequent calms,
Long Ghost hit upon the game of chess. With a jackknife,
we carved the pieces quite tastefully out of bits of wood, and
our board was the middle of a chest-lid, chalked into squares,
which, in playing, we straddled at either end. Having no
other suitable way of distinguishing the sets, I marked mine
by tying round them little scarfs of black silk, torn from an old
neck handkerchief. Putting them in mourning this way, the
doctor said, was quite appropriate, seeing that they had reason
to feel sad three games out of four. Of chess, the men never

-- 057 --

[figure description] Page 057.[end figure description]

could make head nor tail; indeed, their wonder rose to such a
pitch, that they at last regarded the mysterious movements of
the game with something more than perplexity; and after puzzling
over them through several long engagements, they came
to the conclusion that we must be a couple of necromancers.

-- 058 --

p274-065 CHAPTER X. A SEA-PARLOR DESCRIBED, WITH SOME OF ITS TENANTS.

[figure description] Page 058.[end figure description]

I may as well give some idea of the place in which the doctor
and I lived together so sociably.

Most persons know that a ship's forecastle embraces the
forward part of the deck about the bowsprit: the same term,
however, is generally bestowed upon the sailors' sleeping-quarters,
which occupy a space immediately beneath, and are partitioned
off by a bulkhead.

Planted right in the bows, or, as sailors say, in the very eyes
of the ship, this delightful apartment is of a triangular shape,
and is generally fitted with two tiers of rude bunks. Those of
the Julia were in a most deplorable condition, mere wrecks,
some having been torn down altogether to patch up others; and
on one side there were but two standing. But with most of the
men it made little difference whether they had a bunk or not,
since, having no bedding, they had nothing to put in it but
themselves.

Upon the boards of my own crib I spread all the old canvas
and old clothes I could pick up. For a pillow, I wrapped an
old jacket round a log. This helped a little the wear and tear
of one's bones when the ship rolled.

Rude hammocks made out of old sails were in many cases
used as substitutes for the demolished bunks; but the space
they swung in was so confined, that they were far from being
agreeable.

The general aspect of the forecastle was dungeon-like and

-- 059 --

[figure description] Page 059.[end figure description]

dingy in the extreme. In the first place, it was not five feet
from deck to deck, and even this space was encroached upon
by two outlandish cross-timbers bracing the vessel, and by the
sailors' chests, over which you must needs crawl in getting
about. At meal-times, and especially when we indulged in
after-dinner chat, we sat about the chests like a parcel of tailors.

In the middle of all, were two square, wooden columns, denominated
in marine architecture “Bowsprit Bitts.” They
were about a foot apart, and between them, by a rusty chain,
swung the forecastle lamp, burning day and night, and forever
casting two long black shadows. Lower down, between the
bitts, was a locker, or sailors' pantry, kept in abominable disorder,
and sometimes requiring a vigorous cleaning and fumigation.

All over, the ship was in a most dilapidated condition; but in
the forecastle it looked like the hollow of an old tree going to
decay. In every direction the wood was damp and discolored,
and here and there soft and porous. Moreover, it was hacked
and hewed without mercy, the cook frequently helping himself
to splinters for kindling-wood from the bitts and beams. Overhead,
every carline was sooty, and here and there deep holes
were burned in them, a freak of some drunken sailors on a
voyage long previous.

From above, you entered by a plank, with two cleets, slanting
down from the scuttle, which was a mere hole in the deck.
There being no slide to draw over in case of emergency, the
tarpaulin temporarily placed there, was little protection from
the spray heaved over the bows; so that in any thing of a
breeze the place was miserably wet. In a squall, the water
fairly poured down in sheets like a cascade, swashing about,
and afterward spirting up between the chests like the jets of a
fountain.

Such were our accommodations aboard of the Julia; but bad

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[figure description] Page 060.[end figure description]

as they were, we had not the undisputed possession of them.
Myriads of cockroaches, and regiments of rats disputed the
place with us. A greater calamity than this can scarcely befall
a vessel in the South Seas.

So warm is the climate that it is almost impossible to get rid
of them. You may seal up every hatchway, and fumigate the
hull till the smoke forces itself out at the seams, and enough
will survive to repeople the ship in an incredibly short period.
In some vessels, the crews of which after a hard fight have
given themselves up, as it were, for lost, the vermin seem to
take actual possession, the sailors being mere tenants by sufferance.
With Sperm Whalemen, hanging about the Line, as
many of them do for a couple of years on a stretch, it is infinitely
worse than with other vessels.

As for the Julia, these creatures never had such free and
easy times as they did in her crazy old hull; every chink and
cranny swarmed with them; they did not live among you, but
you among them. So true was this, that the business of eating
and drinking was better done in the dark than in the light of
day.

Concerning the cockroaches, there was an extraordinary phenomenon,
for which none of us could ever account.

Every night they had a jubilee. The first symptom was an
unusual clustering and humming among the swarms lining the
beams overhead, and the inside of the sleeping-places. This
was succeeded by a prodigious coming and going on the part
of those living out of sight. Presently they all came forth; the
larger sort racing over the chests and planks; winged monsters
darting to and fro in the air; and the small fry buzzing in heaps
almost in a state of fusion.

On the first alarm, all who were able darted on deck; while
some of the sick who were too feeble, lay perfectly quiet—the
distracted vermin running over them at pleasure. The

-- 061 --

[figure description] Page 061.[end figure description]

performance lasted some ten minutes, during which no hive ever
hummed louder. Often it was lamented by us that the time of
the visitation could never be predicted; it was liable to come
upon us at any hour of the night, and what a relief it was, when
it happened to fall in the early part of the evening.

Nor must I forget the rats: they did not forget me. Tame
as Trenck's mouse, they stood in their holes peering at you like
old grandfathers in a doorway. Often they darted in upon us
at meal-times, and nibbled our food. The first time they approached
Wymontoo, he was actually frightened; but becoming
accustomed to it, he soon got along with them much better than
the rest. With curious dexterity he seized the animals by
their legs, and flung them up the scuttle to find a watery grave.

But I have a story of my own to tell about these rats. One
day the cabin steward made me a present of some molasses,
which I was so choice of, that I kept it hid away in a tin can in
the farthest corner of my bunk. Faring as we did, this molasses
dropped upon a biscuit was a positive luxury, which I
shared with none but the doctor, and then only in private.
And sweet as the treacle was, how could bread thus prepared
and eaten in secret be otherwise than pleasant.

One night our precious can ran low, and in canting it over in
the dark, something besides the molasses slipped out. How long
it had been there, kind Providence never revealed; nor were
we over anxious to know; for we hushed up the bare thought
as quickly as possible. The creature certainly died a luscious
death, quite equal to Clarence's in the butt of Malmsey.

-- 062 --

p274-069 CHAPTER XI. DOCTOR LONG GHOST A WAG—ONE OF HIS CAPERS.

[figure description] Page 062.[end figure description]

Grave though he was at times, Doctor Long Ghost was a
decided wag.

Every one knows what lovers of fun sailors are ashore—afloat,
they are absolutely mad after it. So his pranks were duly appreciated.

The poor old black cook! Unlashing his hammock for the
night, and finding a wet log fast asleep in it; and then waking
in the morning with his woolly head tarred. Opening his coppers,
and finding an old boot boiling away as saucy as could
be, and sometimes cakes of pitch candying in his oven.

Baltimore's[3] tribulations were indeed sore; there was no
peace for him day nor night. Poor fellow! he was altogether
too good-natured. Say what they will about easy-tempered
people, it is far better, on some accounts, to have the temper
of a wolf. Who ever thought of taking liberties with gruff
Black Dan!

The most curious of the doctor's jokes, was hoisting the men
aloft by the foot or shoulder, when they fell asleep on deck during
the night-watches.

Ascending from the forecastle on one occasion, he found
every soul napping, and forthwith went about his capers.
Fastening a rope's end to each sleeper, he rove the lines
through a number of blocks, and conducted them all to the

-- 063 --

[figure description] Page 063.[end figure description]

windlass; then, by heaving round cheerily, in spite of cries and
struggles, he soon had them dangling aloft in all directions by
arms and legs. Waked by the uproar, we rushed up from below,
and found the poor fellows swinging in the moonlight
from the tops and lower yard-arms, like a parcel of pirates gibbeted
at sea by a cruiser.

Connected with this sort of diversion, was another prank of his.
During the night some of those on deck would come below to
light a pipe, or take a mouthful of beef and biscuit. Sometimes
they fell asleep; and being missed directly that any thing
was to be done, their shipmates often amused themselves by
running them aloft with a pulley dropped down the scuttle from
the fore-top.

One night, when all was perfectly still, I lay awake in the
forecastle; the lamp was burning low and thick, and swinging
from its blackened beam; and with the uniform motion of the
ship, the men in the bunks rolled slowly from side to side; the
hammocks swaying in unison.

Presently I heard a foot upon the ladder, and, looking up,
saw a wide trowsers' leg. Immediately, Navy Bob, a stout, old
Triton, stealthily descended, and at once went to groping in the
locker after something to eat.

Supper ended, he proceeded to load his pipe. Now, for a
good comfortable smoke at sea, there never was a better place
than the Julia's forecastle at midnight. To enjoy the luxury,
one wants to fall into a kind of dreamy revery, only known to
the children of the weed. And the very atmosphere of the
place, laden as it was with the snores of the sleepers, was inducive
of this. No wonder, then, that after a while Bob's head
sunk upon his breast; presently his hat fell off, the extinguished
pipe dropped from his mouth, and the next moment he lay out
on the chest as tranquil as an infant.

Suddenly an order was heard on deck, followed by the

-- 064 --

[figure description] Page 064.[end figure description]

trampling of feet and the hauling of rigging. The yards were
being braced, and soon after the sleeper was missed; for there
was a whispered conference over the scuttle.

Directly a shadow glided across the forecastle and noiselessly
approached the unsuspecting Bob. It was one of the watch
with the end of a rope leading out of sight up the scuttle.
Pausing an instant, the sailor pressed softly the chest of his
victim, sounding his slumbers; and then hitching the cord to
his ankle, returned to the deck.

Hardly was his back turned, when a long limb was thrust
from a hammock opposite, and Doctor Long Ghost, leaping
forth warily, whipped the rope from Bob's ankle, and fastened it
like lightning to a great lumbering chest, the property of the
man who had just disappeared.

Scarcely was the thing done, when lo! with a thundering
bound, the clumsy box was torn from its fastenings, and banging
from side to side, flew toward the scuttle. Here it jammed;
and thinking that Bob, who was as strong as a windlass,
was grappling a beam and trying to cut the line, the jokers on
deck strained away furiously. On a sudden, the chest went
aloft, and striking against the mast, flew open, raining down on
the heads of the party a merciless shower of things too numerous
to mention.

Of course the uproar roused all hands, and when we hurried
on deck, there was the owner of the box, looking aghast at its
scattered contents, and with one wandering hand taking the
altitude of a bump on his head.

eaf274.n3

[3] He was so called from the place of his birth, being a runaway Maryland
slave.

-- 065 --

p274-072 CHAPTER XII. DEATH AND BURIAL OF TWO OF THE CREW.

[figure description] Page 065.[end figure description]

The mirthfulness, which, at times, reigned among us, was in
strange and shocking contrast with the situation of some of the
invalids. Thus, at least, did it seem to me, though not to others.

But an event occurred about this period, which, in removing
by far the most pitiable cases of suffering, tended to make less
grating to my feelings the subsequent conduct of the crew.

We had been at sea about twenty days, when two of the
sick who had rapidly grown worse, died one night within an
hour of each other.

One occupied a bunk right next to mine, and for several
days had not risen from it. During this period he was often
delirious, starting up and glaring around him, and sometimes
wildly tossing his arms.

On the night of his decease, I retired shortly after the middle
watch began, and waking from a vague dream of horrors, felt
something clammy resting on me. It was the sick man's hand.
Two or three times during the evening previous, he had thrust
it into my bunk, and I had quietly removed it; but now I
started and flung it from me. The arm fell stark and stiff, and
I knew that he was dead.

Waking the men, the corpse was immediately rolled up in
the strips of blanketing upon which it lay, and carried on deck.
The mate was then called, and preparations made for an instantaneous
burial. Laying the body out on the forehatch, it was
stitched up in one of the hammocks, some “kentlege” being

-- 066 --

[figure description] Page 066.[end figure description]

placed at the feet instead of shot. This done, it was borne to
the gangway, and placed on a plank laid across the bulwarks.
Two men supported the inside end. By way of solemnity, the
ship's headway was then stopped by hauling aback the main-top-sail.

The mate, who was far from being sober, then staggered up,
and holding on to a shroud, gave the word. As the plank
tipped, the body slid off slowly, and fell with a splash into the
sea. A bubble or two, and nothing more was seen.

“Brace forward!” The main-yard swung round to its
place, and the ship glided on, while the corpse, perhaps, was
still sinking.

We had tossed a shipmate to the sharks, but no one would
have thought it, to have gone among the crew immediately
after. The dead man had been a churlish, unsocial fellow,
while alive, and no favorite; and now that he was no more,
little thought was bestowed upon him. All that was said, was
concerning the disposal of his chest, which, having been always
kept locked, was supposed to contain money. Some one volunteered
to break it open, and distribute its contents, clothing
and all, before the captain should demand it.

While myself and others were endeavoring to dissuade them
from this, all started at a cry from the forecastle. There could
be no one there but two of the sick, unable to crawl on deck.
We went below, and found one of them dying on a chest. He
had fallen out of his hammock in a fit, and was insensible. The
eyes were open and fixed, and his breath coming and going
convulsively. The men shrunk from him; but the doctor,
taking his hand, held it a few moments in his, and suddenly
letting it fall, exclaimed, “He's gone!” The body was instantly
borne up the ladder.

Another hammock was soon prepared, and the dead sailor
stitched up as before. Some additional ceremony, however,

-- 067 --

[figure description] Page 067.[end figure description]

was now insisted upon, and a Bible was called for. But none
was to be had, not even a Prayer Book. When this was
made known, Antone, a Portuguese, from the Cape-de-Verd
Islands, stepped up, muttered something over the corpse of his
countryman, and, with his finger, described upon the back of
the hammock the figure of a large cross; whereupon it received
the dead-lanch.

These two men both perished from the proverbial indiscretions
of seamen, heightened by circumstances apparent; but
had either of them been ashore under proper treatment, he
would, in all human probability, have recovered.

Behold here the fate of a sailor! They give him the last toss,
and no one asks whose child he was.

For the rest of that night there was no more sleep. Many
stayed on deck until broad morning, relating to each other those
marvelous tales of the sea which the occasion was calculated
to call forth. Little as I believed in such things, I could not
listen to some of these stories unaffected. Above all was I
struck by one of the carpenter's.

On a voyage to India, they had a fever aboard, which carried
off nearly half the crew in the space of a few days. After this
the men never went aloft in the night-time, except in couples.
When top-sails were to be reefed, phantoms were seen at the
yard-arm ends; and in tacking ship, voices called aloud from
the tops. The carpenter himself, going with another man to
furl the main-top-gallant-sail in a squall, was nearly pushed
from the rigging by an unseen hand; and his shipmate swore
that a wet hammock was flirted in his face.

Stories like these were related as gospel truths, by those
who declared themselves eye-witnesses.

It is a circumstance not generally known, perhaps, that,
among ignorant seamen, Finlanders, or Finns, as they are more
commonly called, are regarded with peculiar superstition. For

-- 068 --

[figure description] Page 068.[end figure description]

some reason or other, which I never could get at, they are supposed
to possess the gift of second sight, and the power to
wreak supernatural vengeance upon those who offend them.
On this account they have great influence among sailors, and
two or three with whom I have sailed at different times, were
persons well calculated to produce this sort of impression, at
least upon minds disposed to believe in such things.

Now, we had one of these sea-prophets aboard; an old,
yellow-haired fellow, who always wore a rude seal-skin cap
of his own make, and carried his tobacco in a large pouch
made of the same stuff. Van, as we called him, was a quiet,
inoffensive man, to look at, and, among such a set, his occasional
peculiarities had hitherto passed for nothing. At this
time, however, he came out with a prediction, which was none
the less remarkable from its absolute fulfillment, though not
exactly in the spirit in which it was given out.

The night of the burial he laid his hand on the old horse-shoe
nailed as a charm to the foremast, and solemnly told us
that, in less than three weeks, not one quarter of our number
would remain aboard the ship—by that time they would have
left her forever.

Some laughed; Flash Jack called him an old fool; but
among the men generally it produced a marked effect. For
several days a degree of quiet reigned among us, and allusions
of such a kind were made to recent events, as could be attributed
to no other cause than the Finn's omen.

For my own part, what had lately come to pass was not
without its influence. It forcibly brought to mind our really
critical condition. Doctor Long Ghost, too, frequently revealed
his apprehensions, and once assured me that he would give
much to be safely landed upon any island around us.

Where we were, exactly, no one but the mate seemed to
know, nor whither we were going. The captain—a mere cipher

-- 069 --

[figure description] Page 069.[end figure description]

—was an invalid in his cabin; to say nothing more of so many
of his men languishing in the forecastle.

Our keeping the sea under these circumstances, a matter
strange enough at first, now seemed wholly unwarranted; and
added to all, was the thought, that our fate was absolutely in
the hand of the reckless Jermin. Were any thing to happen to
him, we would be left without a navigator, for, according to
Jermin himself, he had, from the commencement of the voyage,
always kept the ship's reckoning, the captain's nautical knowledge
being insufficient.

But considerations like these, strange as it may seem, seldom
or never occurred to the crew. They were alive only to superstitious
fears; and when, in apparent contradiction to the Finn's
prophecy, the sick men rallied a little, they began to recover
their former spirits, and the recollection of what had occurred
insensibly faded from their minds. In a week's time, the unworthiness
of Little Jule, as a sea vessel, always a subject of
jest, now became more so than ever. In the forecastle, Flash
Jack, with his knife, often dug into the dank, rotten planks
ribbed between us and death, and flung away the splinters
with some sea joke.

As to the remaining invalids, they were hardly ill enough to
occasion any serious apprehension, at least for the present, in
the breasts of such thoughtless beings as themselves. And
even those who suffered the most, studiously refrained from
any expression of pain.

The truth is, that among sailors as a class, sickness at sea is
so heartily detested, and the sick so little cared for, that the
greatest invalid generally strives to mask his sufferings. He
has given no sympathy to others, and he expects none in return.
Their conduct, in this respect, so opposed to their
generous-hearted behavior ashore, painfully affects the landsman
on his first intercourse with them as a sailor.

-- 070 --

[figure description] Page 070.[end figure description]

Sometimes, but seldom, our invalids inveighed against their
being kept at sea, where they could be of no service, when
they ought to be ashore and in the way of recovery. But—
“Oh! cheer up—cheer up, my hearties!”—the mate would
say. And after this fashion he put a stop to their murmurings.

But there was one circumstance, to which heretofore I have
but barely alluded, that tended more than any thing else to
reconcile many to their situation. This was the receiving
regularly, twice every day, a certain portion of Pisco, which
was served out at the capstan, by the steward, in little tin
measures called “tots.”

The lively affection seamen have for strong drink is well
known; but in the South Seas, where it is so seldom to be
had, a thorough-bred sailor deems scarcely any price too dear
which will purchase his darling “tot.” Nowadays, American
whalemen in the Pacific never think of carrying spirits as a
ration; and aboard of most of them, it is never served out
even in times of the greatest hardships. All Sydney whalemen,
however, still cling to the old custom, and carry it as a
part of the regular supplies for the voyage.

In port, the allowance of Pisco was suspended; with a view,
undoubtedly, of heightening the attractions of being out of
sight of land.

Now, owing to the absence of proper discipline, our sick,
in addition to what they took medicinally, often came in for
their respective “tots” convivially; and, added to all this, the
evening of the last day of the week was always celebrated by
what is styled on board of English vessels, “The Saturday-night
bottles.” Two of these were sent down into the forecastle,
just after dark; one for the starboard watch, and the
other for the larboard.

By prescription, the oldest seamen in each claims the treat
as his, and, accordingly, pours out the good cheer and passes

-- 071 --

[figure description] Page 071.[end figure description]

it round like a lord doing the honors of his table. But the
Saturday-night bottles were not all. The carpenter and
cooper, in sea parlance, Chips and Bungs, who were the
“Cods,” or leaders of the forecastle, in some way or other,
managed to obtain an extra supply, which perpetually kept
them in fine after-dinner spirits, and, moreover, disposed them
to look favorably upon a state of affairs like the present.

But where were the sperm whales all this time? In good
sooth, it made little matter where they were, since we were in
no condition to capture them. About this time, indeed, the
men came down from the mast-heads, where, until now, they
had kept up the form of relieving each other every two hours.
They swore they would go there no more. Upon this, the
mate carelessly observed, that they would soon be where lookouts
were entirely unnecessary, the whales he had in his eye
(though Flash Jack said they were all in his) being so tame,
that they made a practice of coming round ships, and scratching
their backs against them.

Thus went the world of waters with us, some four weeks or
more after leaving Hannamanoo.

-- 072 --

p274-079 CHAPTER XIII. OUR DESTINATION CHANGED.

[figure description] Page 072.[end figure description]

It was not long after the death of the two men, that Captain
Guy was reported as fast declining, and in a day or two more,
as dying. The doctor, who previously had refused to enter the
cabin upon any consideration, now relented, and paid his old
enemy a professional visit.

He prescribed a warm bath, which was thus prepared. The
skylight being removed, a cask was lowered down into the
cabin, and then filled with buckets of water from the ship's coppers.
The cries of the patient, when dipped into this rude bath,
were most painful to hear. They at last laid him on the transom,
more dead than alive.

That evening, the mate was perfectly sober, and coming forward
to the windlass, where we were lounging, summoned aft
the doctor, myself, and two or three others of his favorites; when,
in the presence of Bembo the Mowree, he spoke to us thus:

“I have something to say to ye, men. There's none but
Bembo here as belongs aft, so I've picked ye out as the best
men for'ard to take counsel with, d'ye see, consarning the ship.
The captain's anchor is pretty nigh atrip; I shouldn't wonder
if he croaked afore morning. So what's to be done? If we
have to sew him up, some of those pirates there for'ard may
take it into their heads to run off with the ship, because there's
no one at the tiller. Now, I've detarmined what's best to be
done; but I don't want to do it unless I've good men to back me,
and make things all fair and square if ever we get home again.”

We all asked what his plan was.

-- 073 --

[figure description] Page 073.[end figure description]

“I'll tell ye what it is, men. If the skipper dies, all agree
to obey my orders, and in less than three weeks I'll engage to
have five hundred barrels of sperm oil under hatches: enough
to give every mother's son of ye a handful of dollars when we
get to Sydney. If ye don't agree to this, ye won't have a farthing
coming to ye.”[4]

Doctor Long Ghost at once broke in. He said that such a
thing was not to be dreamt of; that if the captain died, the
mate was in duty bound to navigate the ship to the nearest
civilized port, and deliver her up into an English consul's hands;
when, in all probability, after a run ashore, the crew would be
sent home. Every thing forbade the mate's plan. “Still,”
said he, assuming an air of indifference, “if the men say stick
it out, stick it out say I; but in that case, the sooner we get to
those islands of yours the better.”

Something more he went on to say; and from the manner in
which the rest regarded him, it was plain that our fate was in
his hands. It was finally resolved upon, that if Captain Guy
was no better in twenty-four hours, the ship's head should be
pointed for the island of Tahiti.

This announcement produced a strong sensation—the sick
rallied—and the rest speculated as to what was next to befall
us; while the doctor, without alluding to Guy, congratulated
me upon the prospect of soon beholding a place so famous as
the island in question.

The night after the holding of the council, I happened to go
on deck in the middle watch, and found the yards braced sharp
up on the larboard tack, with the South East Trades strong on
our bow. The captain was no better; and we were off for
Tahiti.

eaf274.n4

[4] The men were shipped “by the lay;” in other words, they received
no wages; but, by the articles, were entitled to a certain portion of the
profits of the voyage.

-- 074 --

p274-081 CHAPTER XIV. ROPE YARN.

[figure description] Page 074.[end figure description]

While gliding along on our way, I can not well omit some
account of a poor devil we had among us, who went by the
name of Rope Yarn, or Ropey.

He was a nondescript who had joined the ship as a landsman.
Being so excessively timid and awkward, it was thought useless
to try and make a sailor of him; so he was translated into
the cabin as steward; the man previously filling that post, a
good seaman, going among the crew and taking his place. But
poor Ropey proved quite as clumsy among the crockery as
in the rigging; and one day when the ship was pitching,
having stumbled into the cabin with a wooden tureen of
soup, he scalded the officers so that they didn't get over it in
a week. Upon which, he was dismissed, and returned to the
forecastle.

Now, nobody is so heartily despised as a pusillanimous, lazy,
good-for-nothing land-lubber; a sailor has no bowels of compassion
for him. Yet, useless as such a character may be in
many respects, a ship's company is by no means disposed to let
him reap any benefit from his deficiencies. Regarded in the
light of a mechanical power, whenever there is any plain, hard
work to be done, he is put to it like a lever; every one giving
him a pry.

Then, again, he is set about all the vilest work. Is there a
heavy job at tarring to be done, he is pitched neck and shoulders
into a tar-barrel, and set to work at it. Moreover, he is

-- 075 --

[figure description] Page 075.[end figure description]

made to fetch and carry like a dog. Like as not, if the mate
sends him after his quadrant, on the way he is met by the captain,
who orders him to pick some oakum; and while he is
hunting up a bit of rope, a sailor comes along and wants to
know what the deuse he's after, and bids him be off to the forecastle.

“Obey the last order,” is a precept inviolable at sea. So the
land-lubber, afraid to refuse to do any thing, rushes about distracted,
and does nothing: in the end receiving a shower of
kicks and cuffs from all quarters.

Added to his other hardships, he is seldom permitted to open
his mouth unless spoken to; and then, he might better keep
silent. Alas for him! if he should happen to be any thing of
a droll; for in an evil hour should he perpetrate a joke, he
would never know the last of it.

The witticisms of others, however, upon himself, must be received
in the greatest good-humor.

Woe be unto him, if at meal-times he so much as look sideways
at the beef-kid before the rest are helped.

Then he is obliged to plead guilty to every piece of mischief
which the real perpetrator refuses to acknowledge; thus taking
the place of that sneaking rascal, nobody, ashore. In short,
there is no end to his tribulations.

The land-lubber's spirits often sink, and the first result of his
being moody and miserable, is naturally enough an utter neglect
of his toilet.

The sailors perhaps ought to make allowances; but heartless
as they are, they do not. No sooner is his cleanliness questioned,
than they rise upon him like a mob of the Middle Ages
upon a Jew; drag him into the lee-scuppers, and strip him to
the buff. In vain he bawls for mercy; in vain calls upon the
captain to save him.

Alas! I say again, for the land-lubber at sea. He is the

-- 076 --

[figure description] Page 076.[end figure description]

veriest wretch the watery world over. And such was Rope
Yarn; of all land-lubbers, the most lubberly and the most miserable.
A forlorn, stunted, hook-visaged mortal he was too;
one of those, whom you know at a glance to have been tried
hard and long in the furnace of affliction. His face was an
absolute puzzle; though sharp and sallow, it had neither the
wrinkles of age nor the smoothness of youth; so that for the
soul of me, I could hardly tell whether he was twenty-five or
fifty.

But to his history. In his better days, it seems he had been
a journeyman baker in London, somewhere about Holborn;
and on Sundays wore a blue coat and metal buttons, and spent
his afternoons in a tavern, smoking his pipe and drinking his
ale like a free and easy journeyman baker that he was. But
this did not last long; for an intermeddling old fool was the
ruin of him. He was told that London might do very well for
elderly gentlemen and invalids; but for a lad of spirit, Australia
was the Land of Promise. In a dark day Ropey wound up his
affairs and embarked.

Arriving in Sydney with a small capital, and after a while
waxing snug and comfortable by dint of hard kneading, he took
unto himself a wife; and so far as she was concerned, might
then have gone into the country and retired; for she effectually
did his business. In short, the lady worked him woe in heart
and pocket; and in the end, ran off with his till and his foreman.
Ropey went to the sign of the Pipe and Tankard; got
fuddled; and over his fifth pot meditated suicide—an intention
carried out; for the next day he shipped as landsman aboard
the Julia, South Seaman.

The ex-baker would have fared far better, had it not been
for his heart, which was soft and underdone. A kind word
made a fool of him; and hence most of the scrapes he got into.
Two or three wags, aware of his infirmity, used to “draw him

-- 077 --

[figure description] Page 077.[end figure description]

out” in conversation, whenever the most crabbed and choleric
old seamen were present.

To give an instance. The watch below, just waked from
their sleep, are all at breakfast; and Ropey, in one corner, is
disconsolately partaking of its delicacies. Now, sailors newly
waked are no cherubs; and therefore not a word is spoken,
every body munching his biscuit, grim and unshaven. At this
juncture an affable-looking scamp—Flash Jack—crosses the
forecastle, tin can in hand, and seats himself beside the land-lubber.

“Hard fare this, Ropey,” he begins; “hard enough, too, for
them that's known better and lived in Lun'nun. I say now,
Ropey, s'posing you were back to Holborn this morning, what
would you have for breakfast, eh?”

“Have for breakfast!” cried Ropey, in a rapture. “Don't
speak of it!”

“What ails that fellow?” here growled an old sea-bear, turning
round savagely.

“Oh, nothing, nothing,” said Jack; and then, leaning over to
Rope Yarn, he bade him go on, but speak lower.

“Well, then,” said he, in a smugged tone, his eyes lighting
up like two lanterns, “well, then, I'd go to Mother Moll's that
makes the great muffins: I'd go there, you know, and cock my
foot on the 'ob, and call for a noggin o' somethink to begin
with.”

“And what then, Ropey?”

“Why then, Flashy,” continued the poor victim, unconsciously
warming with his theme; “why then, I'd draw my chair up
and call for Betty, the gal wot tends to customers. Betty, my
dear, says I, you looks charmin' this mornin'; give me a nice
rasher of bacon and h'eggs Betty my love; and I wants a pint
of h'ale, and three nice h'ot muffins and butter—and a slice of
Cheshire; and Betty, I wants—”

-- 078 --

[figure description] Page 078.[end figure description]

“A shark-steak, and be hanged to you!” roared Black Dan,
with an oath. Whereupon, dragged over the chests, the
ill-starred fellow is pummeled on deck.

I always made a point of befriending poor Ropey when I
could; and, for this reason, was a great favorite of his.

-- 079 --

p274-086 CHAPTER XV. CHIPS AND BUNGS.

[figure description] Page 079.[end figure description]

Bound into port, Chips and Bungs increased their devotion
to the bottle; and, to the unspeakable envy of the rest, these
jolly companions—or “the Partners,” as the men called them—
rolled about deck, day after day, in the merriest mood imaginable.

But jolly as they were in the main, two more discreet tipplers
it would be hard to find. No one ever saw them take any
thing, except when the regular allowance was served out by
the steward; and to make them quite sober and sensible, you
had only to ask them how they contrived to keep otherwise.
Sometime after, however, their secret leaked out.

The casks of Pisco were kept down the after-hatchway,
which, for this reason, was secured with bar and padlock. The
cooper, nevertheless, from time to time, effected a burglarious
entry, by descending into the fore-hold; and then, at the risk
of being jammed to death, crawling along over a thousand obstructions,
to where the casks were stowed.

On the first expedition, the only one to be got at lay among
others, upon its bilge, with the bung-hole well over. With a
bit of iron hoop, suitably bent, and a good deal of prying and
punching, the bung was forced in; and then the cooper's neck-handkerchief,
attached to the end of the hoop, was drawn in
and out—the absorbed liquor being deliberately squeezed into
a small bucket.

Bungs was a man after a bar-keeper's own heart. Drinking

-- 080 --

[figure description] Page 080.[end figure description]

steadily, until just manageably tipsy, he contrived to continue
so; getting neither more nor less inebriated, but, to use his own
phrase, remaining “just about right.” When in this interesting
state, he had a free lurch in his gait, a queer way of hitching
up his waistbands, looked unnecessarily steady at you when
speaking, and for the rest, was in very tolerable spirits. At
these times, moreover, he was exceedingly patriotic; and in a
most amusing way, frequently showed his patriotism whenever
he happened to encounter Dunk, a good-natured, square-faced
Dane, aboard.

It must be known here, by the bye, that the cooper had a
true sailor admiration for Lord Nelson. But he entertained
a very erroneous idea of the personal appearance of the hero.
Not content with depriving him of an eye, and an arm, he
stoutly maintained that he had also lost a leg in one of his
battles. Under this impression, he sometimes hopped up to
Dunk, with one leg curiously locked behind him into his right
arm, at the same time closing an eye.

In this attitude he would call upon him to look up, and behold
the man who gave his countrymen such a thrashing at Copenhagen.
“Look you, Dunk,” says he, staggering about, and
winking hard with one eye, to keep the other shut, “Look
you; one man—hang me, half a man—with one leg, one arm,
one eye—hang me, with only a piece of a carcass, flogged your
whole shabby nation. Do you deny it, you lubber?”

The Dane was a mule of a man, and understanding but little
English, seldom made any thing of a reply; so the cooper generally
dropped his leg, and marched off, with the air of a man
who despised saying any thing further.

-- 081 --

p274-088 CHAPTER XVI. WE ENCOUNTER A GALE.

[figure description] Page 081.[end figure description]

The mild blue weather we enjoyed after leaving the Marquesas,
gradually changed as we ran farther south and approached
Tahiti. In these generally tranquil seas, the wind
sometimes blows with great violence; though, as every sailor
knows, a spicy gale in the tropic latitudes of the Pacific, is far
different from a tempest in the howling North Atlantic. We
soon found ourselves battling with the waves, while the before
mild Trades, like a woman roused, blew fiercely, but still
warmly, in our face.

For all this, the mate carried sail without stint; and as for
brave little Jule, she stood up to it well; and though once in a
while floored in the trough of a sea, sprang to her keel again and
showed play. Every old timber groaned—every spar buckled—
every chafed cord strained; and yet, spite of all, she plunged
on her way like a racer. Jermin, sea-jockey that he was,
sometimes stood in the fore-chains, with the spray every now
and then dashing over him, and shouting out, “Well done,
Jule—dive into it, sweetheart. Hurrah!”

One afternoon there was a mighty queer noise aloft, which
set the men running in every direction. It was the maint'-gallant-mast.
Crash! it broke off just above the cap, and
held there by the rigging, dashed with every roll, from side to
side, with all the hamper that belonged to it. The yard hung
by a hair, and at every pitch, thumped against the cross-trees;
while the sail streamed in ribbons, and the loose ropes coiled,

-- 082 --

[figure description] Page 082.[end figure description]

and thrashed the air, like whip-lashes. “Stand from under!”
and down came the rattling blocks, like so many shot. The
yard, with a snap and a plunge, went hissing into the sea,
disappeared, and shot its full length out again. The crest of a
great wave then broke over it—the ship rushed by—and we
saw the stick no more.

While this lively breeze continued, Baltimore, our old black
cook, was in great tribulation.

Like most South Seamen, the Julia's “caboose,” or cook-house,
was planted on the larboard side of the forecastle.
Under such a press of canvas, and with the heavy sea running,
the barque, diving her bows under, now and then shipped green
glassy waves, which, breaking over the head-rails, fairly deluged
that part of the ship, and washed clean aft. The caboose-house—
thought to be firmly lashed down to its place—served as a
sort of breakwater to the inundation.

About these times, Baltimore always wore what he called
his “gale-suit;” among other things, comprising a Sou'-Wester
and a huge pair of well anointed sea-boots, reaching almost to
his knees. Thus equipped for a ducking or a drowning, as the
case might be, our culinary high-priest drew to the slides of
his temple, and performed his sooty rites in secret.

So afraid was the old man of being washed overboard, that
he actually fastened one end of a small line to his waistbands,
and coiling the rest about him, made use of it as occasion
required. When engaged outside, he unwound the cord, and
secured one end to a ring-bolt in the deck; so that if a chance
sea washed him off his feet, it could do nothing more.

One evening, just as he was getting supper, the Julia reared
up on her stern, like a vicious colt, and when she settled again
forward, fairly dished a tremendous sea. Nothing could withstand
it. One side of the rotten head-bulwarks came in with a
crash; it smote the caboose, tore it from its moorings, and after

-- 083 --

[figure description] Page 083.[end figure description]

boxing it about, dashed it against the windlass, where it stranded.
The water then poured along the deck like a flood, rolling
over and over pots, pans, and kettles, and even old Baltimore
himself, who went breaching along like a porpoise.

Striking the taffrail, the wave subsided, and washing from
side to side, left the drowning cook high and dry on the after-hatch:
his extinguished pipe still between his teeth, and almost
bitten in two.

The few men on deck having sprung into the main-rigging,
sailor-like, did nothing but roar at his calamity.

The same night, our flying-jib-boom snapped off like a pipe-stem,
and our spanker-gaff came down by the run.

By the following morning, the wind in a great measure had
gone down; the sea with it; and by noon we had repaired our
damages as well as we could, and were sailing along as
pleasantly as ever.

But there was no help for the demolished bulwarks; we had
nothing to replace them; and so, whenever it breezed again,
our dauntless craft went along with her splintered prow dripping,
but kicking up her fleet heels just as high as before.

-- 084 --

p274-091 CHAPTER XVII. THE CORAL ISLANDS.

[figure description] Page 084.[end figure description]

How far we sailed to the westward after leaving the Marquesas,
or what might have been our latitude and longitude at
any particular time, or how many leagues we voyaged on our
passage to Tahiti, are matters, about which, I am sorry to say,
I can not with any accuracy enlighten the reader. Jermin, as
navigator, kept our reckoning; and, as hinted before, kept it
all to himself. At noon, he brought out his quadrant, a rusty
old thing, so odd-looking that it might have belonged to an astrologer.

Sometimes, when rather flustered from his potations, he went
staggering about deck, instrument to eye, looking all over for
the sun—a phenomenon which any sober observer might have
seen right overhead. How upon earth he contrived, on some
occasions, to settle his latitude, is more than I can tell. The
longitude, he must either have obtained by the Rule of Three,
or else by special revelation. Not that the chronometer in the
cabin was seldom to be relied on, or was any ways fidgety;
quite the contrary; it stood stock-still; and by that means, no
doubt, the true Greenwich time—at the period of its stopping,
at least—was preserved to a second.

The mate, however, in addition to his “Dead Reckoning,”
pretended to ascertain his meridian distance from Bow Bells
by an occasional lunar observation. This, I believe, consists
in obtaining with the proper instruments, the angular distance
between the moon and some one of the stars. The operation

-- 085 --

[figure description] Page 085.[end figure description]

generally requires two observers to take sights, at one and the
same time.

Now, though the mate alone might have been thought well
calculated for this, inasmuch as he generally saw things double,
the doctor was usually called upon to play a sort of second
quadrant to Jermin's first; and what with the capers of both, they
used to furnish a good deal of diversion. The mate's tremulous
attempts to level his instrument at the star he was after,
were comical enough. For my own part, when he did catch
sight of it, I hardly knew how he managed to separate it from
the astral host revolving in his own brain.

However, by hook or by crook, he piloted us along; and before
many days, a fellow sent aloft to darn a rent in the fore-top-sail,
threw his hat into the air, and bawled out “Land, ho!”

Land it was; but in what part of the South Seas, Jermin
alone knew, and some doubted whether even he did. But no
sooner was the announcement made, than he came running on
deck, spy-glass in hand, and clapping it to his eye, turned round
with the air of a man receiving indubitable assurance of something
he was quite certain of before. The land was precisely
that for which he had been steering; and, with a wind, in less
than twenty-four hours we would sight Tahiti. What he said
was verified.

The island turned out to be one of the Pomotu or Low
Group—sometimes called the Coral Islands—perhaps the most
remarkable and interesting in the Pacific. Lying to the east
of Tahiti, the nearest are within a day's sail of that place.

They are very numerous; mostly small, low, and level;
sometimes wooded, but always covered with verdure. Many
are crescent-shaped; others resemble a horse-shoe in figure.
These last are nothing more than narrow circles of land, surrounding
a smooth lagoon, connected by a single opening with
the sea. Some of the lagoons, said to have subterranean out

-- 086 --

[figure description] Page 086.[end figure description]

lets, have no visible ones; the inclosing island, in such cases,
being a complete zone of emerald. Other lagoons still, are girdled
by numbers of small, green islets, very near to each other.

The origin of the entire group is generally ascribed to the
coral insect.

According to some naturalists, this wonderful little creature,
commencing its erections at the bottom of the sea, after the
lapse of centuries, carries them up to the surface, where its labors
cease. Here, the inequalities of the coral collect all floating
bodies; forming, after a time, a soil, in which the seeds carried
thither by birds, germinate, and cover the whole with vegetation.
Here and there, all over this archipelago, numberless
naked, detached coral formations are seen, just emerging, as it
were, from the ocean. These would appear to be islands in
the very process of creation—at any rate, one involuntarily
concludes so, on beholding them.[5]

As far as I know, there are but few bread-fruit trees in any
part of the Pomotu group. In many places the cocoa-nut even
does not grow; though, in others, it largely flourishes. Consequently,
some of the islands are altogether uninhabited; others
support but a single family; and in no place is the population
very large. In some respects the natives resemble the Tahitians:
their language, too, is very similar. The people of the
southeasterly clusters—concerning whom, however, but little
is known—have a bad name as cannibals; and for that reason
their hospitality is seldom taxed by the mariner.

Within a few years past, missionaries from the Society group

-- 087 --

[figure description] Page 087.[end figure description]

have settled among the leeward islands, where the natives have
treated them kindly. Indeed, nominally, many of these people
are now Christians; and, through the political influence of their
instructors, no doubt, a short time since came under the allegiance
of Pomaree, the Queen of Tahiti; with which island
they always carried on considerable intercourse.

The Coral Islands are principally visited by the pearl-shell
fishermen, who arrive in small schooners, carrying not more
than five or six men.

For a long while the business was engrossed by Merenhout,
the French Consul at Tahiti, but a Dutchman by birth, who,
in one year, is said to have sent to France fifty thousand dollars'
worth of shells. The oysters are found in the lagoons, and
about the reefs; and, for half-a-dozen nails a-day, or a compensation
still less, the natives are hired to dive after them.

A great deal of cocoa-nut oil is also obtained in various places.
Some of the uninhabited islands are covered with dense groves;
and the ungathered nuts which have fallen year after year, lie
upon the ground in incredible quantities. Two or three men,
provided with the necessary apparatus for trying out the oil,
will, in the course of a week or two, obtain enough to load one
of the large sea-canoes.

Cocoa-nut oil is now manufactured in different parts of the
South Seas, and forms no small part of the traffic carried on
with trading vessels. A considerable quantity is annually exported
from the Society Islands to Sydney. It is used in lamps
and for machinery, being much cheaper than the sperm, and,
for both purposes, better than the right-whale oil. They bottle
it up in large bamboos, six or eight feet long; and these
form part of the circulating medium of Tahiti.

To return to the ship. The wind dying away, evening came
on before we drew near the island. But we had it in view during
the whole afternoon.

-- 088 --

[figure description] Page 088.[end figure description]

It was small and round, presenting one enameled level, free
from trees, and did not seem four feet above the water. Beyond
it was another and larger island, about which a tropical
sunset was throwing its glories; flushing all that part of the
heavens, and making it flame like a vast dyed oriel illuminated.

The Trades scarce filled our swooning sails; the air was
languid with the aroma of a thousand strange, flowering shrubs.
Upon inhaling it, one of the sick, who had recently shown symptoms
of scurvy, cried out in pain, and was carried below. This
is no unusual effect in such instances.

On we glided, within less than a cable's length of the shore,
which was margined with foam that sparkled all round. Within,
nestled the still, blue lagoon. No living thing was seen, and,
for aught we knew, we might have been the first mortals who
had ever beheld the spot. The thought was quickening to the
fancy; nor could I help dreaming of the endless grottoes and
galleries, far below the reach of the mariner's lead.

And what strange shapes were lurking there! Think of
those arch creatures, the mermaids, chasing each other in and
out of the coral cells, and catching their long hair in the coral
twigs!

eaf274.n5

[5] The above is the popular idea on the subject. But of late, a theory
directly the reverse has been started. Instead of regarding the phenomena
last described as indicating any thing like an active, creative power now
in operation, it is maintained, that, together with the entire group, they
are merely the remains of a continent, long ago worn away, and broken up
by the action of the sea.

-- 089 --

p274-096 CHAPTER XVIII. TAHITI.

[figure description] Page 089.[end figure description]

At early dawn of the following morning we saw the Peaks
of Tahiti. In clear weather they may be seen at the distance
of ninety miles.

“Hivarhoo!” shouted Wymontoo, overjoyed, and running
out upon the bowsprit when the land was first faintly descried
in the distance. But when the clouds floated away, and showed
the three peaks standing like obelisks against the sky; and the
bold shore undulating along the horizon, the tears gushed from
his eyes. Poor fellow! It was not Hivarhoo. Green Hivarhoo
was many a long league off.

Tahiti is by far the most famous island in the South Seas;
indeed, a variety of causes has made it almost classic. Its natural
features alone distinguish it from the surrounding groups.
Two round and lofty promontories, whose mountains rise nine
thousand feet above the level of the ocean, are connected by a
low, narrow isthmus; the whole being some one hundred miles
in circuit. From the great central peaks of the larger peninsula—
Orohena, Aorai, and Pirohitee—the land radiates on all
sides to the sea in sloping green ridges. Between these are
broad and shadowy valleys—in aspect, each a Tempe—watered
with fine streams, and thickly wooded. Unlike many of the
other islands, there extends nearly all round Tahiti, a belt of
low, alluvial soil, teeming with the richest vegetation. Here,
chiefly, the natives dwell.

Seen from the sea, the prospect is magnificent. It is one

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mass of shaded tints of green, from beach to mountain top; endlessly
diversified with valleys, ridges, glens, and cascades.
Over the ridges, here and there, the loftier peaks fling their
shadows, and far down the valleys. At the head of these, the
water-falls flash out into the sunlight as if pouring through vertical
bowers of verdure. Such enchantment, too, breathes over
the whole, that it seems a fairy world, all fresh and blooming
from the hand of the Creator.

Upon a near approach, the picture loses not its attractions.
It is no exaggeration to say, that to a European of any sensibility,
who, for the first time, wanders back into these valleys—
away from the haunts of the natives—the ineffable repose and
beauty of the landscape is such, that every object strikes him
like something seen in a dream; and for a time he almost refuses
to believe that scenes like these should have a commonplace
existence. No wonder that the French bestowed upon
the island the appellation of the New Cytherea. “Often,” says
De Bourgainville, “I thought I was walking in the Garden of
Eden.”

Nor, when first discovered, did the inhabitants of this charming
country at all diminish the wonder and admiration of the
voyager. Their physical beauty and amiable dispositions harmonized
completely with the softness of their clime. In truth,
every thing about them was calculated to awaken the liveliest
interest. Glance at their civil and religious institutions. To
their king, divine rights were paid; while for poetry, their
mythology rivaled that of ancient Greece.

Of Tahiti, earlier and more full accounts were given, than of
any other island in Polynesia; and this is the reason why it
still retains so strong a hold on the sympathies of all readers of
South Sea voyages. The journals of its first visitors, containing,
as they did, such romantic descriptions of a country and people
before unheard of, produced a marked sensation throughout

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Europe; and when the first Tahitians were carried thither,
Omai in London, and Aotooroo in Paris, were caressed by
nobles, scholars, and ladies.

In addition to all this, several eventful occurrences, more
or less connected with Tahiti, have tended to increase its
celebrity. Over two centuries ago, Quiros, the Spaniard, is
supposed to have touched at the island; and at intervals, Wallis,
Byron, Cook, De Bourgainville, Vancouver, Le Perouse, and
other illustrious navigators, refitted their vessels in its harbors.
Here the famous Transit of Venus was observed, in 1769.
Here the memorable mutiny of the Bounty afterward had its
origin. It was to the pagans of Tahiti that the first regularly
constituted Protestant missionaries were sent; and from their
shores also, have sailed successive missions to the neighboring
islands.

These, with other events, which might be mentioned, have
united in keeping up the first interest which the place awakened;
and the recent proceedings of the French have more
than ever called forth the sympathies of the public.

-- 092 --

p274-099 CHAPTER XIX. A SURPRISE. —MORE ABOUT BEMBO.

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The sight of the island was right welcome. Going into
harbor, after a cruise is always joyous enough, and the sailor
is apt to indulge in all sorts of pleasant anticipations. But to
us, the occasion was heightened by many things peculiar to
our situation.

Since steering for the land, our prospects had been much
talked over. By many it was supposed, that should the captain
leave the ship, the crew were no longer bound by her
articles. This was the opinion of our forecastle Cokes; though,
probably, it would not have been sanctioned by the Marine
Courts of Law. At any rate, such was the state of both vessel
and crew, that whatever might be the event, a long stay, and
many holydays in Tahiti, were confidently predicted.

Every body was in high spirits. The sick, who had been improving
day by day since the change in our destination, were
on deck, and leaning over the bulwarks; some all animation,
and others silently admiring an object unrivaled for its stately
beauty—Tahiti from the sea.

The quarter-deck, however, furnished a marked contrast to
what was going on at the other end of the ship. The Mowree
was there, as usual, scowling by himself; and Jermin walked
to and fro in deep thought, every now and then looking to
windward, or darting into the cabin and quickly returning.

With all our light sails wooingly spread, we held on our way,
until, with the doctor's glass, Papeetee, the village metropolis

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of Tahiti came into view. Several ships were descried lying
in the harbor, and among them, one which loomed up black
and large; her two rows of teeth proclaiming a frigate. This
was the Reine Blanche, last from the Marquesas, and carrying
at the fore, the flag of Rear Admiral Du Petit Thouras. Hardly
had we made her out, when the booming of her guns came
over the water. She was firing a salute, which afterward
turned out to be in honor of a treaty; or rather—as far as the
natives were concerned—a forced cession of Tahiti to the
French, that morning concluded.

The cannonading had hardly died away, when Jermin's voice
was heard giving an order so unexpected that every one started.
“Stand by to haul back the main-yard!”

“What's that mean?” shouted the men, “are we not going
into port?”

“Tumble after here, and no words!” cried the mate; and in
a moment the main-yard swung round, when, with her jib-boom
pointing out to sea, the Julia lay as quiet as a duck. We all
looked blank—what was to come next?

Presently the steward made his appearance, carrying a matress,
which he spread out in the stern-sheets of the captain's
boat; two or three chests, and other things belonging to his
master, were similarly disposed of.

This was enough. A slight hint suffices for a sailor.

Still adhering to his resolution to keep the ship at sea in
spite of every thing, the captain, doubtless, intended to set himself
ashore, leaving the vessel under the mate, to resume her
voyage at once; but after a certain period agreed upon, to
touch at the island, and take him off. All this, of course, could
easily be done, without approaching any nearer the land with
the Julia than we now were. Invalid whaling captains often
adopt a plan like this; but, in the present instance, it was
wholly unwarranted; and, every thing considered, at war with

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the commonest principles of prudence and humanity. And,
although, on Guy's part, this resolution showed more hardihood
than he had ever been given credit for; it, at the same time,
argued an unaccountable simplicity, in supposing that such a
crew would, in any way, submit to the outrage.

It was soon made plain that we were right in our suspicions;
and the men became furious. The cooper and carpenter volunteered
to head a mutiny forthwith; and, while Jermin was
below, four or five rushed aft to fasten down the cabin scuttle;
others, throwing down the main-braces, called out to the rest to
lend a hand, and fill away for the land. All this was done in
an instant; and things were looking critical, when Doctor Long
Ghost and myself prevailed upon them to wait a while, and do
nothing hastily; there was plenty of time, and the ship was
completely in our power.

While the preparations were still going on in the cabin, we
mustered the men together, and went into counsel upon the
forecastle.

It was with much difficulty that we could bring these rash
spirits to a calm consideration of the case. But the doctor's
influence at last began to tell; and, with a few exceptions, they
agreed to be guided by him; assured that, if they did so, the
ship would eventually be brought to her anchors, without any
one getting into trouble. Still they told us, up and down, that
if peaceable means failed, they would seize Little Jule, and
carry her into Papeetee, if they all swung for it; but, for the
present, the captain should have his own way.

By this time every thing was ready; the boat was lowered
and brought to the gangway; and the captain was helped on
deck by the mate and steward. It was the first time we had
seen him in more than two weeks, and he was greatly altered.
As if anxious to elude every eye, a broad-brimmed Payta hat
was pulled down over his brow; so that his face was only

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visible when the brim flapped aside. By a sling, rigged from
the main-yard, the cook and Bembo now assisted in lowering
him into the boat. As he went moaning over the side, he must
have heard the whispered maledictions of his crew.

While the steward was busy adjusting matters in the boat,
the mate, after a private interview with the Mowree, turned
round abruptly, and told us that he was going ashore with the
captain, to return as soon as possible. In his absence, Bembo,
as next in rank, would command; there being nothing to do
but keep the ship at a safe distance from the land. He then
sprang into the boat, and, with only the cook and steward as
oarsmen, steered for the shore.

Guy's thus leaving the ship in the men's hands, contrary to
the mate's advice, was another evidence of his simplicity; for
at this particular juncture, had neither the doctor nor myself
been aboard, there is no telling what they might have done.

For the nonce, Bembo was captain; and, so far as mere
seamanship was concerned, he was as competent to command
as any one. In truth, a better seaman never swore. This accomplishment,
by the by, together with a surprising familiarity
with most nautical names and phrases, comprised about all the
English he knew.

Being a harponeer, and, as such, having access to the cabin,
this man, though not yet civilized, was, according to sea usages,
which know no exceptions, held superior to the sailors;
and therefore nothing was said against his being left in charge
of the ship; nor did it occasion any surprise.

Some additional account must be given of Bembo. In the
first place, he was far from being liked. A dark, moody
savage, every body but the mate more or less distrusted or
feared him. Nor were these feelings unreciprocated. Unless
duty called, he seldom went among the crew. Hard stories too
were told about him; something, in particular, concerning an

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hereditary propensity to kill men and eat them. True, he
came from a race of cannibals; but that was all that was
known to a certainty.

Whatever unpleasant ideas were connected with the Mowree,
his personal appearance no way lessened them. Unlike most
of his countrymen, he was, if any thing, below the ordinary
height; but then, he was all compact, and under his swart,
tattooed skin, the muscles worked like steel rods. Hair, crisp,
and coal-black, curled over shaggy brows, and ambushed small,
intense eyes, always on the glare. In short, he was none of
your effeminate barbarians.

Previous to this, he had been two or three voyages in
Sydney whalemen; always, however, as in the present instance,
shipping at the Bay of Islands, and receiving his discharge
there on the homeward-bound passage. In this way,
his countrymen frequently enter on board the colonial whaling
vessels.

There was a man among us who had sailed with the
Mowree on his first voyage, and he told me that he had not
changed a particle since then.

Some queer things this fellow told me. The following is
one of his stories. I give it for what it is worth; premising,
however, that from what I know of Bembo, and the fool-hardy,
dare-devil feats sometimes performed in the sperm-whale fishery,
I believe in its substantial truth.

As may be believed, Bembo was a wild one after a fish; indeed,
all New Zealanders engaged in this business are; it
seems to harmonize sweetly with their blood-thirsty propensities.
At sea, the best English they speak, is the South Seaman's
slogan in lowering away, “A dead whale, or a stove
boat!” Game to the marrow, these fellows are generally
selected for harponeers; a post in which a nervous, timid man
would be rather out of his element.

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In darting, the harponeer, of course, stands erect in the
head of the boat, one knee braced against a support. But
Bembo disdained this; and was always pulled up to his fish,
balancing himself right on the gunwale.

But to my story. One morning, at daybreak, they brought
him up to a large, lone whale. He darted his harpoon, and
missed; and the fish sounded. After a while, the monster rose
again, about a mile off, and they made after him. But he was
frightened, or “gallied,” as they call it; and noon came, and
the boat was still chasing him. In whaling, as long as the fish
is in sight, and no matter what may have been previously
undergone, there is no giving up, except when night comes;
and nowadays, when whales are so hard to be got, frequently
not even then. At last, Bembo's whale was alongside for the
second time. He darted both harpoons; but, as sometimes
happens to the best men, by some unaccountable chance, once
more missed. Though it is well known that such failures will
happen at times, they, nevertheless, occasion the bitterest disappointment
to a boat's crew, generally expressed in curses
both loud and deep. And no wonder. Let any man pull with
might and main for hours and hours together, under a burning
sun; and if it do not make him a little peevish, he is no sailor.

The taunts of the seamen may have maddened the Mowree;
however it was, no sooner was he brought up again, than, harpoon
in hand, he bounded upon the whale's back, and for one dizzy
second was seen there. The next, all was foam and fury, and
both were out of sight. The men sheered off, flinging overboard
the line as fast as they could; while ahead, nothing was
seen but a red whirlpool of blood and brine.

Presently, a dark object swam out; the line began to
straighten; then smoked round the loggerhead, and, quick
as thought, the boat sped like an arrow through the water.
They were “fast,” and the whale was running.

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Where was the Mowree? His brown hand was on the boat's
gunwale; and he was hauled aboard in the very midst of the
mad bubbles that burst under the bows.

Such a man, or devil, if you will, was Bembo.

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p274-106 CHAPTER XX. THE ROUND ROBIN. —VISITORS FROM SHORE.

[figure description] Page 099.[end figure description]

After the captain left, the land-breeze died away; and, as
is usual about these islands, toward noon it fell a dead calm.
There was nothing to do but haul up the courses, run down
the jib, and lay and roll upon the swells. The repose of the
elements seemed to communicate itself to the men; and for a
time, there was a lull.

Early in the afternoon, the mate, having left the captain at
Papeetee, returned to the ship. According to the steward, they
were to go ashore again right after dinner with the remainder
of Guy's effects.

On gaining the deck, Jermin purposely avoided us, and went
below without saying a word. Meanwhile, Long Ghost and
I labored hard to diffuse the right spirit among the crew;
impressing upon them that a little patience and management
would, in the end, accomplish all that their violence could; and
that, too, without making a serious matter of it.

For my own part, I felt that I was under a foreign flag; that
an English consul was close at hand, and that sailors seldom
obtain justice. It was best to be prudent. Still, so much did
I sympathize with the men, so far, at least, as their real grievances
were concerned; and so convinced was I of the cruelty and
injustice of what Captain Guy seemed bent upon, that if need
were, I stood ready to raise a hand.

In spite of all we could do, some of them again became most
refractory, breathing nothing but downright mutiny. When we

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went below to dinner, these fellows stirred up such a prodigious
tumult that the old hull fairly echoed. Many, and fierce too,
were the speeches delivered, and uproarious the comments of
the sailors. Among others, Long Jim, or—as the doctor afterward
called him—Lacedæmonian Jim, rose in his place, and
addressed the forecastle parliament in the following strain:

“Look ye, Britons! if, after what's happened, this there craft
goes to sea with us, we are no men; and that's the way to say
it. Speak the word, my livelies, and I'll pilot her in. I've
been to Tahiti before, and I can do it.” Whereupon, he sat
down amid a universal pounding of chest-lids, and cymbaling
of tin pans; the few invalids, who, as yet, had not been actively
engaged with the rest, now taking part in the applause, creaking
their bunk-boards and swinging their hammocks. Cries
also were heard, of “Handspikes and a shindy!” “Out stunsails!”
“Hurrah!”

Several now ran on deck, and, for the moment, I thought it
was all over with us; but we finally succeeded in restoring some
degree of quiet.

At last, by way of diverting their thoughts, I proposed that
a “Round Robin” should be prepared and sent ashore to the
consul, by Baltimore, the cook. The idea took mightily, and
I was told to set about it at once. On turning to the doctor for
the requisite materials, he told me he had none; there was not
a fly-leaf, even, in any of his books. So, after great search, a
damp, musty volume, entitled “A History of the most Atrocious
and Bloody Piracies,” was produced, and its two remaining
blank leaves being torn out, were, by help of a little pitch,
lengthened into one sheet. For ink, some of the soot over the
lamp was then mixed with water, by a fellow of a literary turn;
and an immense quill, plucked from a distended albatros' wing,
which, nailed against the bowsprit bitts, had long formed an
ornament of the forecastle, supplied a pen.

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Making use of the stationery thus provided, I indited upon a
chest-lid, a concise statement of our grievances; concluding
with the earnest hope, that the consul would at once come off,
and see how matters stood, for himself. Right beneath the note
was described the circle about which the names were to be
written; the great object of a Round Robin being to arrange
the signatures in such a way, that, although they are all found
in a ring, no man can be picked out as the leader of it.

Few among them had any regular names; many answering
to some familiar title, expressive of a personal trait; or oftener
still, to the name of the place from which they hailed; and in
one or two cases were known by a handy syllable or two, significant
of nothing in particular but the men who bore them.
Some, to be sure, had, for the sake of formality, shipped under
a feigned cognomen, or “Purser's name;” these, however,
were almost forgotten by themselves; and so, to give the
document an air of genuineness, it was decided that every
man's name should be put down as it went among the crew.
The annexed, therefore, as nearly as I can recall it, is something
like a correct representation of the signatures. It is due
the doctor, to say, that the circumscribed device was his.

Folded, and sealed with a drop of tar, the Round Robin was
directed to “The English Consul, Tahiti;” and, handed to the
cook, was by him delivered into that gentleman's hands as soon
as the mate went ashore.

On the return of the boat, some time after dark, we learned
a good deal from old Baltimore, who, having been allowed to
run about as much as he pleased, had spent his time gossiping.

Owing to the proceedings of the French, every thing in Tahiti
was in an uproar. Pritchard, the missionary consul, was absent
in England; but his place was temporarily filled by one Wilson,
an educated white man, born on the island, and the son of
an old missionary of that name, still living.

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With natives and foreigners alike, Wilson the younger was
exceedingly unpopular, being held an unprincipled and dissipated
man, a character verified by his subsequent conduct.
Pritchard's selecting a man like this to attend to the duties of
his office, had occasioned general dissatisfaction ashore.

Though never in Europe or America, the acting consul had
been several voyages to Sydney in a schooner belonging to the
mission; and therefore our surprise was lessened, when Baltimore
told us, that he and Captain Guy were as sociable as could
be—old acquaintances, in fact; and that the latter had taken
up his quarters at Wilson's house. For us, this bonded ill.

The mate was now assailed by a hundred questions as to
what was going to be done with us. His only reply was, that
in the morning the consul would pay us a visit, and settle every
thing.

After holding our ground off the harbor during the night, in
the morning a shore boat, manned by natives, was seen coming
off. In it were Wilson and another white man, who proved to
be a Doctor Johnson, an Englishman, and a resident physician
of Papeetee.

Stopping our headway as they approached, Jermin advanced
to the gangway to receive them. No sooner did the consul
touch the deck, than he gave us a specimen of what he was.

“Mr. Jermin,” he cried loftily, and not deigning to notice
the respectful salutation of the person addressed, “Mr. Jermin,
tack ship, and stand off from the land.”

Upon this, the men looked hard at him, anxious to see what
sort of a looking “cove” he was. Upon inspection, he turned
out to be an exceedingly minute “cove,” with a viciously
pugged nose, and a decidedly thin pair of legs. There was
nothing else noticeable about him. Jermin, with ill assumed
suavity, at once obeyed the order, and the ship's head soon
pointed out to sea.

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Now, contempt is as frequently produced at first sight as
love; and thus was it with respect to Wilson. No one could
look at him without conceiving a strong dislike, or a cordial
desire to entertain such a feeling the first favorable opportunity.
There was such an intolerable air of conceit about this man,
that it was almost as much as one could do to refrain from
running up and affronting him.

“So the counselor is come,” exclaimed Navy Bob, who, like
all the rest, invariably styled him thus, much to mine and the
doctor's diversion. “Ay,” said another, “and for no good, I'll
be bound.”

Such were some of the observations made, as Wilson and the
mate went below conversing.

But no one exceeded the cooper in the violence with which
he inveighed against the ship and every thing connected with
her. Swearing like a trooper, he called the main-mast to witness,
that if he (Bungs) ever again went out of sight of land in
the Julia, he prayed Heaven that a fate might be his—altogether
too remarkable to be here related.

Much had he to say also concerning the vileness of what we
had to eat—not fit for a dog; besides enlarging upon the imprudence
of intrusting the vessel longer to a man of the mate's
intemperate habits. With so many sick, too, what could we
expect to do in the fishery? It was no use talking; come
what come might, the ship must let go her anchor.

Now, as Bungs, besides being an able seaman, a “Cod” in
the forecastle, and about the oldest man in it, was, moreover,
thus deeply imbued with feelings so warmly responded to by
the rest, he was all at once selected to officiate as spokesman,
so soon as the consul should see fit to address us. The selection
was made contrary to mine and the doctor's advice; however,
all assured us they would keep quiet, and hear every thing
Wilson had to say, before doing any thing decisive.

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We were not kept long in suspense; for very soon he was
seen standing in the cabin gangway, with the tarnished tin case
containing the ship's papers; and Jermin at once sung out for
the ship's company to muster on the quarter-deck.

-- 105 --

p274-112 CHAPTER XXI. PROCEEDINGS OF THE CONSUL.

[figure description] Page 105.[end figure description]

The order was instantly obeyed, and the sailors ranged themselves,
facing the consul.

They were a wild company; men of many climes—not at all
precise in their toilet arrangements, but picturesque in their
very tatters. My friend, the Long Doctor, was there too; and
with a view, perhaps, of enlisting the sympathies of the consul
for a gentleman in distress, had taken more than ordinary pains
with his appearance. But among the sailors, he looked like a
land-crane blown off to sea, and consorting with petrels.

The forlorn Rope Yarn, however, was by far the most remarkable
figure. Land-lubber that he was, his outfit of seaclothing
had long since been confiscated; and he was now fain
to go about in whatever he could pick up. His upper garment—
an unsailor-like article of dress which he persisted in wearing,
though torn from his back twenty times in the day—was
an old “claw-hammer-jacket,” or swallow-tail coat, formerly
belonging to Captain Guy, and which had formed one of his
perquisites when steward.

By the side of Wilson was the mate, bareheaded, his gray
locks lying in rings upon his bronzed brow, and his keen eye
scanning the crowd as if he knew their every thought. His
frock hung loosely, exposing his round throat, mossy chest, and
short and nervous arm embossed with pugilistic bruises, and
quaint with many a device in India ink.

In the midst of a portentous silence, the consul unrolled his

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[figure description] Page 106.[end figure description]

papers, evidently intending to produce an effect by the exceeding
bigness of his looks.

“Mr. Jermin, call off their names;” and he handed him a list
of the ship's company.

All answered but the deserters and the two mariners at the
bottom of the sea.

It was now supposed that the Round Robin would be produced,
and something said about it. But not so. Among the
consul's papers, that unique document was thought to be perceived;
but, if there, it was too much despised to be made a
subject of comment. Some present, very justly regarding it as
an uncommon literary production, had been anticipating all
sorts of miracles therefrom; and were, therefore, much touched
at this neglect.

“Well, men,” began Wilson again after a short pause, “although
you all look hearty enough, I'm told there are some
sick among you. Now then, Mr. Jermin, call off the names
on that sick-list of yours, and let them go over to the other
side of the deck—I should like to see who they are.”

“So, then,” said he, after we had all passed over, “you are
the sick fellows, are you? Very good: I shall have you seen
to. You will go down into the cabin, one by one, to Doctor
Johnson, who will report your respective cases to me.
Such as he pronounces in a dying state I shall have sent ashore;
the rest will be provided with every thing needful, and remain
aboard.”

At this announcement, we gazed strangely at each other, anxious
to see who it was that looked like dying, and pretty nearly
deciding to stay aboard and get well, rather than go ashore and
be buried. There were some, nevertheless, who saw very
plainly what Wilson was at, and they acted accordingly.
For my own part, I resolved to assume as dying an expression
as possible; hoping, that on the strength of it, I might

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[figure description] Page 107.[end figure description]

be sent ashore, and so get rid of the ship without any further
trouble.

With this intention, I determined to take no part in any
thing that might happen, until my case was decided upon. As
for the doctor, he had all along pretended to be more or less
unwell; and by a significant look now given me, it was plain
that he was becoming decidedly worse.

The invalids disposed of for the present, and one of them
having gone below to be examined, the consul turned round to
the rest, and addressed them as follows:

“Men, I'm going to ask you two or three questions—let one
of you answer yes or no, and the rest keep silent. Now then:
Have you any thing to say against your mate, Mr. Jermin?”
And he looked sharply among the sailors, and, at last, right
into the eye of the cooper, whom every body was eying.

“Well, sir,” faltered Bungs, “we can't say any thing against
Mr. Jermin's seamanship, but—”

“I want no buts,” cried the consul, breaking in: “answer
me yes or no—have you any thing to say against Mr. Jermin?”

“I was going on to say, sir; Mr. Jermin's a very good man;
but then—” Here the mate looked marlingspikes at Bungs;
and Bungs, after stammering out something, looked straight
down to a seam in the deck, and stopped short.

A rather assuming fellow heretofore, the cooper had sported
many feathers in his cap; he was now showing the white one.

“So much then for that part of the business,” exclaimed Wilson,
smartly; “you have nothing to say against him, I see.”

Upon this, several seemed to be on the point of saying a
good deal; but disconcerted by the cooper's conduct, checked
themselves, and the consul proceeded.

“Have you enough to eat, aboard? answer me, you man who
spoke before.”

“Well, I don't know as to that,” said the cooper, looking ex

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cessively uneasy, and trying to edge back, but pushed forward
again. “Some of that salt horse ain't as sweet as it might
be.”

“That's not what I asked you,” shouted the consul, growing
brave quite fast; “answer my questions as I put them, or I'll
find a way to make you.”

This was going a little too far. The ferment, into which the
cooper's poltroonery had thrown the sailors, now brooked no
restraint; and one of them—a young American who went by
the name of Salem[6]—dashed out from among the rest, and
fetching the cooper a blow, that sent him humming over toward
the consul, flourished a naked sheath-knife in the air, and burst
forth with “I'm the little fellow that can answer your questions;
just put them to me once, counselor.”

But the “counselor” had no more questions to ask just then;
for at the alarming apparition of Salem's knife, and the extraordinary
effect produced upon Bungs, he had popped his head
down the companion-way, and was holding it there.

Upon the mate's assuring him, however, that it was all over,
he looked up, quite flustered, if not frightened, but evidently
determined to put as fierce a face on the matter as practicable
Speaking sharply, he warned all present to “look out;” and
then repeated the question, whether there was enough to eat
aboard. Every one now turned spokesman; and he was assailed
by a perfect hurricane of yells, in which the oaths fell
like hailstones.

“How's this! what d'ye mean?” he cried, upon the first lull;
“who told you all to speak at once? Here, you man with the
knife, you'll be putting some one's eyes out yet; d'ye hear,
you sir? You seem to have a good deal to say, who are you,
pray; where did you ship?”

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“I'm nothing more nor a bloody beech-comber,”[7] retorted
Salem, stepping forward piratically and eying him; “and if
you want to know, I shipped at the Islands about four months
ago.”

“Only four months ago? And here you have more to say
than men who have been aboard the whole voyage;” and the
consul made a dash at looking furious, but failed. “Let me
hear no more from you, sir. Where's that respectable, gray-headed
man, the cooper? he's the one to answer my questions.”

“There's no 'spectable, gray-headed men aboard,” returned
Salem; “we're all a parcel of mutineers and pirates!”

All this time, the mate was holding his peace; and Wilson,
now completely abashed, and at a loss what to do, took him by
the arm, and walked across the deck. Returning to the cabinscuttle,
after a close conversation, he abruptly addressed the
sailors, without taking any further notice of what had just
happened.

“For reasons you all know, men, this ship has been placed
in my hands. As Captain Guy will remain ashore for the
present, your mate, Mr. Jermin, will command until his recovery.
According to my judgment, there is no reason why
the voyage should not be at once resumed; especially, as I
shall see that you have two more harponeers, and enough
good men to man three boats. As for the sick, neither you

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[figure description] Page 110.[end figure description]

nor I have any thing to do with them; they will be attended
to by Doctor Johnson; but I've explained that matter before.
As soon as things can be arranged—in a day or two, at farthest—
you will go to sea for a three months' cruise, touching here,
at the end of it, for your captain. Let me hear a good report
of you, now, when you come back. At present, you will continue
lying off and on the harbor. I will send you fresh provisions
as soon as I can get them. There: I've nothing more
to say; go forward to your stations.”

And, without another word, he wheeled round to descend
into the cabin. But hardly had he concluded, before the incensed
men were dancing about him on every side, and calling
upon him to lend an ear. Each one for himself denied the
legality of what he proposed to do; insisted upon the necessity
for taking the ship in; and finally gave him to understand,
roughly and roundly, that go to sea in her they would not.

In the midst of this mutinous uproar, the alarmed consul
stood fast by the scuttle. His tactics had been decided upon
beforehand; indeed, they must have been concerted ashore,
between him and the captain; for all he said, as he now
hurried below, was, “Go forward, men; I'm through with
you: you should have mentioned these matters before: my
arrangements are concluded: go forward, I say; I've nothing
more to say to you.” And, drawing over the slide of the
scuttle, he disappeared.

Upon the very point of following him down, the attention
of the exasperated seamen was called off to a party who had
just then taken the recreant Bungs in hand. Amid a shower
of kicks and cuffs, the traitor was borne along to the forecastle,
where—I forbear to relate what followed.

-- 111 --

p274-118

[figure description] Page 111.[end figure description]

CHAPTER XXII. THE CONSUL'S DEPARTURE.

During the scenes just described, Doctor Johnson was
engaged in examining the sick; of whom, as it turned out,
all but two were to remain in the ship. He had evidently
received his cue from Wilson.

One of the last called below into the cabin, just as the
quarter-deck gathering dispersed, I came on deck quite incensed.
My lameness, which, to tell the truth, was now much
better, was put down as, in a great measure, affected; and my
name was on the list of those who would be fit for any duty in
a day or two. This was enough. As for Doctor Long Ghost,
the shore physician, instead of extending to him any professional
sympathy, had treated him very cavalierly. To a
certain extent, therefore, we were now both bent on making
common cause with the sailors.

I must explain myself here. All we wanted was to have the
ship snugly anchored in Papeetee Bay; entertaining no doubt
that, could this be done, it would in some way or other peaceably
lead to our emancipation. Without a downright mutiny,
there was but one way to accomplish this: to induce the men
to refuse all further duty, unless it were to work the vessel in.
The only difficulty lay in restraining them within proper
bounds. Nor was it without certain misgivings, that I found
myself so situated, that I must necessarily link myself, however
guardedly, with such a desperate company; and in an
enterprise too, of which it was hard to conjecture what might

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be the result. But any thing like neutrality was out of the
question; and unconditional submission was equally so.

On going forward, we found them ten times more tumultuous
than ever. After again restoring some degree of tranquillity,
we once more urged our plan of quietly refusing duty,
and awaiting the result. At first, few would hear of it; but in
the end, a good number were convinced by our representations.
Others held out. Nor were those who thought with
us, in all things to be controlled.

Upon Wilson's coming on deck to enter his boat, he was
beset on all sides; and, for a moment, I thought the ship
would be seized before his very eyes.

“Nothing more to say to you, men; my arrangements are
made. Go forward, where you belong. I'll take no insolence;”
and, in a tremor, Wilson hurried over the side in the
midst of a volley of execrations.

Shortly after his departure, the mate ordered the cook and
steward into his boat; and saying that he was going to see
how the captain did, left us, as before, under the charge of
Bembo.

At this time we were lying becalmed, pretty close in with
the land (having gone about again), our main-top-sail flapping
against the mast with every roll.

The departure of the consul and Jermin was followed by a
scene absolutely indescribable. The sailors ran about deck
like madmen; Bembo, all the while, leaning against the taffrail
by himself, smoking his heathenish stone pipe, and never
interfering.

The cooper, who that morning had got himself into a fluid
of an exceedingly high temperature, now did his best to regain
the favor of the crew. “Without distinction of party,” he
called upon all hands to step up, and partake of the contents
of his bucket.

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[figure description] Page 113.[end figure description]

But it was quite plain that, before offering to intoxicate
others, he had taken the wise precaution of getting well tipsy
himself. He was now once more happy in the affection of his
shipmates, who, one and all, pronounced him sound to the
kelson.

The Pisco soon told; and, with great difficulty, we restrained
a party in the very act of breaking into the after-hold in pursuit
of more.

All manner of pranks were now played.

“Mast-head, there! what d'ye see?” bawled Beauty, hailing
the main-truck through an enormous copper tunnel.
“Stand by for stays,” roared Flash Jack, hauling off with the
cook's axe, at the fastenings of the main-stay. “Looky out for
'qualls!” shrieked the Portuguese, Antone, darting a handspike
through the cabin sky-light. And “Heave round cheerly,
men,” sung out Navy Bob, dancing a hornpipe on the fore
castle.

-- 114 --

p274-121 CHAPTER XXIII. THE SECOND NIGHT OFF PAPEETEE.

[figure description] Page 114.[end figure description]

Toward sunset, the mate came off, singing merrily, in the
stern of his boat; and in attempting to climb up the side, succeeded
in going plump into the water. He was rescued by the
steward, and carried across the deck with many moving expressions
of love for his bearer. Tumbled into the quarterboat,
he soon fell asleep, and waking about midnight, somewhat
sobered, went forward among the men. Here, to prepare
for what follows, we must leave him for a moment.

It was now plain enough, that Jermin was by no means unwilling
to take the Julia to sea; indeed, there was nothing he
so much desired; though what his reasons were, seeing our
situation, we could only conjecture. Nevertheless, so it was;
and having counted much upon his rough popularity with the
men to reconcile them to a short cruise under him, he had
consequently been disappointed in their behavior. Still, thinking
that they would take a different view of the matter, when
they came to know what fine times he had in store for them, he
resolved upon trying a little persuasion.

So on going forward, he put his head down the forecastle
scuttle, and hailed us all quite cordially, inviting us down into
the cabin; where, he said, he had something to make merry
withal. Nothing loth, we went; and throwing ourselves along
the transom, waited for the steward to serve us.

As the can circulated, Jermin, leaning on the table and occupying
the captain's arm-chair secured to the deck, opened his

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[figure description] Page 115.[end figure description]

mind as bluntly and freely as ever. He was by no means yet
sober.

He told us we were acting very foolishly; that if we only
stuck to the ship, he would lead us all a jovial life of it; enumerating
the casks still remaining untapped in the Julia's
wooden cellar. It was even hinted vaguely, that such a thing
might happen as our not coming back for the captain; whom he
spoke of but lightly; asserting, what he had often said before,
that he was no sailor.

Moreover, and perhaps with special reference to Doctor
Long Ghost and myself, he assured us generally, that if there
were any among us studiously inclined, he would take great
pleasure in teaching such the whole art and mystery of navigation,
including the gratuitous use of his quadrant.

I should have mentioned, that previous to this, he had taken
the doctor aside, and said something about reinstating him in
the cabin with augmented dignity; beside throwing out a hint,
that I myself, was in some way or other to be promoted. But
it was all to no purpose; bent the men were upon going ashore,
and there was no moving them.

At last he flew into a rage—much increased by the frequency
of his potations—and with many imprecations, concluded by
driving every body out of the cabin. We tumbled up the gangway
in high good-humor.

Upon deck every thing looked so quiet, that some of the most
pugnacious spirits actually lamented that there was so little
prospect of an exhilarating disturbance before morning. It was
not five minutes, however, ere these fellows were gratified.

Sydney Ben—said to be a runaway Ticket-of-Leave-Man,[8]

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[figure description] Page 116.[end figure description]

and for reasons of his own, one of the few who still remained
on duty—had, for the sake of the fun, gone down with the rest
into the cabin; where Bembo, who meanwhile was left in charge
of the deck, had frequently called out for him. At first, Ben
pretended not to hear; but on being sung out for again and
again, bluntly refused; at the same time, casting some illiberal
reflections on the Mowree's maternal origin, which the latter
had been long enough among sailors to understand as in the
highest degree offensive. So just after the men came up from
below, Bembo singled him out, and gave him such a cursing in
his broken lingo, that it was enough to frighten one. The
convict was the worse for liquor; indeed the Mowree had been
tippling also, and before we knew it, a blow was struck by
Ben, and the two men came together like magnets.

The Ticket-of-Leave-Man was a practiced bruiser; but the
savage knew nothing of the art pugilistic: and so they were
even. It was clear hugging and wrenching till both came to
the deck. Here they rolled over and over in the middle of a
ring which seemed to form of itself. At last the white man's
head fell back, and his face grew purple. Bembo's teeth were
at his throat. Rushing in all round, they hauled the savage off,
but not until repeatedly struck on the head would he let go.

His rage was now absolutely demoniac; he lay glaring, and
writhing on the deck, without attempting to rise. Cowed, as
they supposed he was, from his attitude, the men, rejoiced at
seeing him thus humbled, left him; after rating him in sailor
style, for a cannibal and a coward.

Ben was attended to, and led below.

Soon after this, the rest also, with but few exceptions, retired
into the forecastle; and having been up nearly all the previous
night, they quickly dropped about the chests and rolled into

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[figure description] Page 117.[end figure description]

the hammocks. In an hour's time, not a sound could be heard
in that part of the ship.

Before Bembo was dragged away, the mate had in vain
endeavored to separate the combatants, repeatedly striking the
Mowree; but the seamen interposing, at last kept him off.

And intoxicated as he was, when they dispersed, he knew
enough to charge the steward—a steady seaman be it remembered—
with the present safety of the ship; and then went below,
where he fell directly into another drunken sleep.

Having remained upon deck with the doctor some time after
the rest had gone below, I was just on the point of following
him down, when I saw the Mowree rise, draw a bucket of
water, and holding it high above his head, pour its contents
right over him. This he repeated several times. There was
nothing very peculiar in the act, but something else about him
struck me. However, I thought no more of it, but descended
the scuttle.

After a restless nap, I found the atmosphere of the forecastle
so close, from nearly all the men being down at the same time,
that I hunted up an old pea-jacket and went on deck; intending
to sleep it out there till morning. Here I found the cook and
steward, Wymontoo, Rope Yarn, and the Dane; who, being
all quiet, manageable fellows, and holding aloof from the rest
since the captain's departure, had been ordered by the mate
not to go below until sunrise. They were lying under the lee
of the bulwarks; two or three fast asleep, and the others smoking
their pipes, and conversing.

To my surprise, Bembo was at the helm; but there being so
few to stand there now, they told me, he had offered to take his
turn with the rest, at the same time heading the watch; and to
this, of course, they made no objection.

It was a fine, bright night; all moon and stars, and white
crests of waves. The breeze was light, but freshening; and

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[figure description] Page 118.[end figure description]

close hauled, poor little Jule, as if nothing had happened, was
heading in for the land, which rose high and hazy in the
distance.

After the day's uproar, the tranquillity of the scene was
soothing, and I leaned over the side to enjoy it.

More than ever did I now lament my situation—but it was
useless to repine, and I could not upbraid myself. So at last,
becoming drowsy, I made a bed with my jacket under the
windlass, and tried to forget myself.

How long I lay there, I can not tell; but as I rose, the first
object that met my eye, was Bembo at the helm; his dark
figure slowly rising and falling with the ship's motion against
the spangled heavens behind. He seemed all impatience and
expectation; standing at arm's length from the spokes, with
one foot advanced, and his bare head thrust forward. Where
I was, the watch were out of sight; and no one else was stirring;
the deserted decks and broad white sails were gleaming in the
moonlight.

Presently, a swelling, dashing sound came upon my ear, and
I had a sort of vague consciousness that I had been hearing it
before. The next instant I was broad awake and on my feet.
Right ahead, and so near that my heart stood still, was a long
line of breakers, heaving and frothing. It was the coral reef,
girdling the island. Behind it, and almost casting their shadows
upon the deck, were the sleeping mountains, about whose hazy
peaks the gray dawn was just breaking. The breeze had
freshened, and with a steady, gliding motion, we were running
straight for the reef.

All was taken in at a glance; the fell purpose of Bembo was
obvious, and with a frenzied shout to wake the watch, I rushed
aft. They sprang to their feet bewildered; and after a short,
but desperate scuffle, we tore him from the helm. In wrestling
with him, the wheel—left for a moment unguarded—flew to

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leeward, thus, fortunately, bringing the ship's head to the wind,
and so retarding her progress. Previous to this, she had been
kept three or four points free, so as to close with the breakers.
Her headway now shortened, I steadied the helm, keeping the
sails just lifting, while we glided obliquely toward the land. To
have run off before the wind—an easy thing—would have been
almost instant destruction, owing to a curve of the reef in that
direction. At this time, the Dane and the steward were still
struggling with the furious Mowree, and the others were running
about irresolute and shouting.

But darting forward the instant I had the helm, the old cook
thundered on the forecastle with a handspike, “Breakers!
breakers close aboard!—'bout ship! 'bout ship!”

Up came the sailors, staring about them in stupid horror.

“Haul back the head-yards!” “Let go the lee fore-brace!”
“Ready about! about!” were now shouted on all sides; while
distracted by a thousand orders, they ran hither and thither,
fairly panic-stricken.

It seemed all over with us; and I was just upon the point
of throwing the ship full into the wind (a step, which, saving
us for the instant, would have sealed our fate in the end),
when a sharp cry shot by my ear like the flight of an arrow.

It was Salem: “All ready for'ard; hard down!”

Round and round went the spokes—the Julia, with her short
keel, spinning to windward like a top. Soon, the jib-sheets
lashed the stays, and the men, more self-possessed, flew to the
braces.

“Main-sail haul!” was now heard, as the fresh breeze streamed
fore and aft the deck; and directly the after-yards were
whirled round.

In half-a-minute more, we were sailing away from the land
on the other tack, with every sail distended.

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[figure description] Page 120.[end figure description]

Turning on our heel within little more than a biscuit's toss
of the reef, no earthly power could have saved us, were it not
that, up to the very brink of the coral rampart, there are no
soundings.

eaf274.n6

[6] So called from the place he hailed from; a well known sea-port on the
coast of Massachusetts.

eaf274.n7

[7] This is a term much in vogue among sailors in the Pacific. It is applied
to certain roving characters, who, without attaching themselves permanently
to any vessel, ship now and then for a short cruise in a whaler;
but upon the condition only of being honorably discharged the very next
time the anchor takes hold of the bottom; no matter where. They are,
mostly, a reckless, rollicking set, wedded to the Pacific, and never dreaming
of ever doubling Cape Horn again on a homeward-bound passage.
Hence, their reputation is a bad one.

eaf274.n8

[8] Some of the most “promising” convicts in New South Wales are
hired out to the citizens as servants; thus being, in some degree, permitted
to go at large, government, however, still claiming them as wards. They
are provided with tickets, which they are obliged to show to any one who
pleases to suspect their being abroad without warrant. Hence the above
appellation. This was the doctor's explanation of the term.

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p274-128 CHAPTER XXIV. OUTBREAK OF THE CREW.

[figure description] Page 121.[end figure description]

The purpose of Bembo had been made known to the men
generally by the watch; and now that our salvation was certain,
by an instinctive impulse they raised a cry, and rushed toward
him.

Just before liberated by Dunk and the steward, he was
standing doggedly by the mizen-mast; and, as the infuriated
sailors came on, his bloodshot eye rolled, and his sheath-knife
glittered over his head.

“Down with him!” “Strike him down!” “Hang him at
the main-yard!” such were the shouts now raised. But he
stood unmoved, and, for a single instant, they absolutely faltered.

“Cowards!” cried Salem, and he flung himself upon him.
The steel descended like a ray of light; but did no harm; for
the sailor's heart was beating against the Mowree's before he
was aware.

They both fell to the deck, when the knife was instantly
seized, and Bembo secured.

“For'ard! for'ard with him!” was again the cry; “give him
a sea-toss!” “overboard with him!” and he was dragged along
the deck, struggling and fighting with tooth and nail.

All this uproar immediately over the mate's head at last
roused him from his drunken nap, and he came staggering on
deck.

“What's this?” he shouted, running right in among them.

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[figure description] Page 122.[end figure description]

“It's the Mowree, zur; they are going to murder him, zur,”
here sobbed poor Rope Yarn, crawling close up to him.

“Avast! avast!” roared Jermin, making a spring toward
Bembo, and dashing two or three of the sailors aside. At this
moment the wretch was partly flung over the bulwarks, which
shook with his frantic struggles. In vain the doctor and others
tried to save him: the men listened to nothing.

“Murder and mutiny, by the salt sea!” shouted the mate;
and dashing his arms right and left, he planted his iron hand
upon the Mowree's shoulder.

“There are two of us now; and as you serve him, you serve
me,” he cried, turning fiercely round.

“Over with them together, then,” exclaimed the carpenter,
springing forward; but the rest fell back before the courageous
front of Jermin, and, with the speed of thought, Bembo, unharmed,
stood upon deck.

“Aft with ye!” cried his deliverer; and he pushed him right
among the men, taking care to follow him up close. Giving
the sailors no time to recover, he pushed the Mowree before
him, till they came to the cabin scuttle, when he drew the slide
over him, and stood still. Throughout, Bembo never spoke
one word.

“Now for'ard where ye belong!” cried the mate, addressing
the seamen, who by this time, rallying again, had no idea of
losing their victim.

“The Mowree! the Mowree!” they shouted.

Here the doctor, in answer to the mate's repeated questions,
stepped forward, and related what Bembo had been doing; a
matter which the mate but dimly understood from the violent
threatenings he had been hearing.

For a moment he seemed to waver; but at last, turning the
key in the padlock of the slide, he breathed through his set
teeth—“Ye can't have him; I'll hand him over to the consul;

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[figure description] Page 123.[end figure description]

so for'ard with ye, I say: when there's any drowning to be
done, I'll pass the word; so away with ye, ye blood-thirsty
pirates!”

It was to no purpose that they begged or threatened: Jermin,
although by no means sober, stood his ground manfully, and
before long they dispersed, soon to forget every thing that had
happened.

Though we had no opportunity to hear him confess it, Bembo's
intention to destroy us was beyond all question. His only
motive could have been, a desire to revenge the contumely
heaped upon him the night previous, operating upon a heart
irreclaimably savage, and at no time fraternally disposed toward
the crew.

During the whole of this scene the doctor did his best to
save him. But well knowing that all I could do, would have
been equally useless, I maintained my place at the wheel. Indeed,
no one but Jermin could have prevented this murder.

-- 124 --

p274-131 CHAPTER XXV. JERMIN ENCOUNTERS AN OLD SHIPMATE.

[figure description] Page 124.[end figure description]

During the morning of the day which dawned upon the
events just recounted, we remained a little to leeward of the
harbor, waiting the appearance of the consul, who had promised
the mate to come off in a shore boat for the purpose of seeing
him.

By this time the men had forced his secret from the cooper;
and the consequence was, that they kept him continually
coming and going from the after-hold. The mate must have
known this; but he said nothing, notwithstanding all the
dancing, and singing, and occasional fighting which announced
the flow of the Pisco.

The peaceable influence which the doctor and myself had
heretofore been exerting, was now very nearly at an end.

Confident, from the aspect of matters, that the ship, after all,
would be obliged to go in; and learning, moreover, that the
mate had said so, the sailors, for the present, seemed in no
hurry about it; especially as the bucket of Bungs gave such
generous cheer.

As for Bembo, we were told that, after putting him in
double irons, the mate had locked him up in the captain's
state-room, taking the additional precaution of keeping the
cabin scuttle secured. From this time forward we never saw
the Mowree again, a circumstance which will explain itself as
the narrative proceeds.

Noon came, and no consul; and as the afternoon advanced

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[figure description] Page 125.[end figure description]

without any word even from the shore, the mate was justly incensed;
more especially, as he had taken great pains to keep
perfectly sober against Wilson's arrival.

Two or three hours before sundown, a small schooner came
out of the harbor, and headed over for the adjoining island
of Imeeo, or Moreea, in plain sight, about fifteen miles distant.
The wind failing, the current swept her down under our bows,
where we had a fair glimpse of the natives on her decks.

There were a score of them, perhaps, lounging upon spread
mats, and smoking their pipes. On floating so near, and hearing
the maudlin cries of our crew, and beholding their antics,
they must have taken us for a pirate; at any rate, they got out
their sweeps, and pulled away as fast as they could; the sight
of our two six-pounders, which, by way of a joke, were now
run out of the side-ports, giving a fresh impetus to their efforts.
But they had not gone far, when a white man, with a red sash
about his waist, made his appearance on deck, the natives immediately
desisting.

Hailing us loudly, he said he was coming aboard; and after
some confusion on the schooner's decks, a small canoe was
lanched overboard, and, in a minute or two, he was with us.
He turned out to be an old shipmate of Jermin's, one Viner,
long supposed dead, but now resident on the island.

The meeting of these men, under the circumstances, is one
of a thousand occurrences appearing exaggerated in fiction; but,
nevertheless, frequently realized in actual lives of adventure.

Some fifteen years previous, they had sailed together as
officers of the bark Jane, of London, a South Seaman. Somewhere
near the New Hebrides, they struck one night upon an
unknown reef; and, in a few hours, the Jane went to pieces.
The boats, however, were saved; some provisions also, a
quadrant, and a few other articles. But several of the men
were lost before they got clear of the wreck.

-- 126 --

[figure description] Page 126.[end figure description]

The three boats, commanded respectively by the captain,
Jermin, and the third mate, then set sail for a small English
settlement at the Bay of Islands in New Zealand. Of course
they kept together as much as possible. After being at sea
about a week, a Lascar in the captain's boat went crazy; and,
it being dangerous to keep him, they tried to throw him overboard.
In the confusion that ensued, the boat capsized from
the sail's “jibing;” and a considerable sea running at the time,
and the other boats being separated more than usual, only one
man was picked up. The very next night it blew a heavy
gale; and the remaining boats taking in all sail, made bundles
of their oars, flung them overboard, and rode to them with
plenty of line. When morning broke, Jermin and his men
were alone upon the ocean; the third mate's boat, in all probability,
having gone down.

After great hardships, the survivors caught sight of a brig,
which took them on board, and eventually landed them in
Sydney.

Ever since then our mate had sailed from that port, never
once hearing of his lost shipmates, whom, by this time, of course,
he had long given up. Judge, then, his feelings, when Viner,
the lost third mate, the instant he touched the deck, rushed up
and wrung him by the hand.

During the gale his line had parted; so that the boat, drifting
fast to leeward, was out of sight by morning. Reduced,
after this, to great extremities, the boat touched, for fruit, at an
island of which they knew nothing. The natives, at first,
received them kindly; but one of the men getting into a
quarrel on account of a woman, and the rest taking his part,
they were all massacred but Viner, who, at the time, was in an
adjoining village. After staying on the island more than two
years, he finally escaped in the boat of an American whaler,
which landed him at Valparaiso. From this period he had

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[figure description] Page 127.[end figure description]

continued to follow the seas, as a man before the mast, until about
eighteen months previous, when he went ashore at Tahiti, where
he now owned the schooner we saw, in which he traded among
the neighboring islands.

The breeze springing up again just after nightfall, Viner
left us, promising his old shipmate to see him again, three days
hence, in Papeetee harbor.

-- 128 --

p274-135 CHAPTER XXVI. WE ENTER THE HARBOR. —JIM THE PILOT.

[figure description] Page 128.[end figure description]

Exhausted by the day's wassail, most of the men went
below at an early hour, leaving the deck to the steward and
two of the men remaining on duty; the mate, with Baltimore
and the Dane, engaging to relieve them at midnight. At that
hour, the ship—now standing off shore, under short sail—was
to be tacked.

It was not long after midnight, when we were wakened in
the forecastle by the lion roar of Jermin's voice, ordering a
pull at the jib-halyards; and soon afterward, a handspike
struck the scuttle, and all hands were called to take the ship
into port.

This was wholly unexpected; but we learned directly, that
the mate, no longer relying upon the consul, and renouncing
all thought of inducing the men to change their minds, had
suddenly made up his own. He was going to beat up to the
entrance of the harbor, so as to show a signal for a pilot before
sunrise.

Notwithstanding this, the sailors absolutely refused to assist
in working the ship under any circumstances whatever: to all
mine and the doctor's entreaties lending a deaf ear. Sink or
strike, they swore they would have nothing more to do with
her. This perverseness was to be attributed, in a great
measure, to the effects of their late debauch.

With a strong breeze, all sail set, and the ship in the hands
of four or five men, exhausted by two nights' watching, our

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[figure description] Page 129.[end figure description]

situation was bad enough; especially as the mate seemed more
reckless than ever, and we were now to tack ship several times
close under the land.

Well knowing that if any thing untoward happened to the
vessel before morning, it would be imputed to the conduct
of the crew, and so lead to serious results, should they ever be
brought to trial; I called together those on deck, to witness
my declaration:—that now that the Julia was destined for the
harbor (the only object for which I, at least, had been struggling),
I was willing to do what I could, toward carrying her
in safely. In this step I was followed by the doctor.

The hours passed anxiously until morning; when, being well
to windward of the mouth of the harbor, we bore up for it, with
the union-jack at the fore. No sign, however, of boat or pilot
was seen; and after running close in several times, the ensign
was set at the mizen-peak, union down in distress. But it was
of no avail.

Attributing to Wilson this unaccountable remissness on the
part of those ashore, Jermin, quite enraged, now determined
to stand boldly in upon his own responsibility; trusting solely
to what he remembered of the harbor on a visit there many
years previous.

This resolution was characteristic. Even with a competent
pilot, Papeetee Bay is considered a ticklish one to enter.
Formed by a bold sweep of the shore, it is protected seaward
by the coral reef, upon which the rollers break with great
violence. After stretching across the bay, the barrier extends
on toward Point Venus,[9] in the district of Matavai, eight or
nine miles distant. Here there is an opening, by which ships
enter, and glide down the smooth, deep canal, between the
reef and the shore, to the harbor. But, by seamen generally,

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[figure description] Page 130.[end figure description]

the leeward entrance is preferred, as the wind is extremely
variable inside the reef. This latter entrance is a break in the
barrier directly facing the bay and village of Papeetee. It is
very narrow; and, from the baffling winds, currents, and sunken
rocks, ships now and then grate their keels against the
coral.

But the mate was not to be daunted; so, stationing what
men he had at the braces, he sprang upon the bulwarks, and,
bidding every body keep wide awake, ordered the helm up.
In a few moments, we were running in. Being toward noon,
the wind was fast leaving us, and, by the time the breakers
were roaring on either hand, little more than steerage-way
was left. But on we glided—smoothly and deftly; avoiding
the green, darkling objects here and there strewn in our path:
Jermin occasionally looking down in the water, and then about
him, with the utmost calmness, and not a word spoken. Just
fanned along thus, it was not many minutes ere we were past
all danger, and floated into the placid basin within. This was
the cleverest specimen of his seamanship that he ever gave us.

As we held on toward the frigate and shipping, a canoe,
coming out from among them, approached. In it were a boy
and an old man—both islanders; the former nearly naked,
and the latter dressed in an old naval frock-coat. Both were
paddling with might and main; the old man, once in a while,
tearing his paddle out of the water; and, after rapping his
companion over the head, both fell to with fresh vigor. As
they came within hail, the old fellow, springing to his feet and
flourishing his paddle, cut some of the queerest of capers; all
the while jabbering something which at first we could not
understand.

Presently we made out the following:—“Ah! you pemi,
ah!—you come!—What for you come?—You be fine for come
no pilot.—I say, you hear?—I say, you ita maitai (no good).—

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[figure description] Page 131.[end figure description]

You hear?—You no pilot.—Yes, you d— me, you no pilot
't all; I d— you; you hear?

This tirade, which showed plainly that, whatever the profane
old rascal was at, he was in right good earnest, produced
peals of laughter from the ship. Upon which, he seemed to
get beside himself; and the boy, who, with suspended paddle,
was staring about him, received a sound box over the head,
which set him to work in a twinkling, and brought the canoe
quite near. The orator now opening afresh, it turned out
that his vehement rhetoric was all addressed to the mate, still
standing conspicuously on the bulwarks.

But Jermin was in no humor for nonsense; so, with a
sailor's blessing, he ordered him off. The old fellow then flew
into a regular frenzy, cursing and swearing worse than any civilized
being I ever heard.

“You sabbee[10] me?” he shouted. “You know me, ah?
Well: me Jim, me pilot—been pilot now long time.”

“Ay,” cried Jermin, quite surprised, as indeed we all were,
“you are the pilot, then, you old pagan. Why didn't you come
off before this?”

“Ah! me sabbee,—me know—you piratee (pirate)—see you
long time, but no me come—I sabbee you—you ita maitai nuee
(superlatively bad).”

“Paddle away with ye,” roared Jermin, in a rage; “be off!
or I'll dart a harpoon at ye!”

But, instead of obeying the order, Jim, seizing his paddle,
darted the canoe right up to the gangway, and, in two bounds,
stood on deck. Pulling a greasy silk handkerchief still lower
over his brow, and improving the sit of his frock-coat with a
vigorous jerk, he then strode up to the mate; and, in a more
flowery style than ever, gave him to understand that the re

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[figure description] Page 132.[end figure description]

doubtable “Jim,” himself, was before him; that the ship was
his until the anchor was down; and he should like to hear
what any one had to say to it.

As there now seemed little doubt that he was all he claimed
to be, the Julia was at last surrendered.

Our gentleman now proceeded to bring us to an anchor,
jumping up between the knight-heads, and bawling out “Luff!
luff! keepy off! keepy off!” and insisting upon each time being
respectfully responded to by the man at the helm. At this
time our steerage-way was almost gone; and yet, in giving
his orders, the passionate old man made as much fuss as a white
squall aboard the Flying Dutchman.

Jim turned out to be the regular pilot of the harbor; a post,
be it known, of no small profit; and, in his eyes, at least, invested
with immense importance.[11] Our unceremonious entrance,
therefore, was regarded as highly insulting, and tending
to depreciate both the dignity and lucrativeness of his office.

The old man is something of a wizard. Having an understanding
with the elements, certain phenomena of theirs are
exhibited for his particular benefit. Unusually clear weather,
with a fine steady breeze, is a certain sign that a merchantman
is at hand; whale-spouts seen from the harbor, are tokens of a
whaling vessel's approach; and thunder and lightning, happening
so seldom as they do, are proof positive that a man-of-war
is drawing near.

In short, Jim, the pilot, is quite a character in his way; and
no one visits Tahiti without hearing some curious story about
him.

eaf274.n9

[9] The most northerly point of the island; and so called from Cook's
observatory being placed there during his first visit.

eaf274.n10

[10] A corruption of the French word savoir, much in use among sailors of
all nations, and hence made familiar to many of the natives of Polynesia.

eaf274.n11

[11] For a few years past, more than one hundred and fifty sail have annually
touched at Tahiti. They are principally whalemen, whose cruisinggrounds
lie in the vicinity. The harbor dues—going to the queen—are so
high, that they have often been protested against. Jim, I believe, gets
five silver dollars for every ship brought in.

-- 133 --

p274-140 CHAPTER XXVII. A GLANCE AT PAPEETEE. —WE ARE SENT ABOARD THE FRIGATE.

[figure description] Page 133.[end figure description]

The village of Papeetee struck us all very pleasantly. Lying
in a semicircle round the bay, the tasteful mansions of the chiefs
and foreign residents impart an air of tropical elegance, heightened
by the palm-trees waving here and there, and the deepgreen
groves of the Bread-Fruit in the background. The
squalid huts of the common people are out of sight, and there is
nothing to mar the prospect.

All round the water, extends a wide, smooth beach of mixed
pebbles and fragments of coral. This forms the thoroughfare
of the village; the handsomest houses all facing it—the fluctuations
of the tides[12] being so inconsiderable, that they cause no
inconvenience.

The Pritchard residence—a fine large building—occupies a
site on one side of the bay: a green lawn slopes off to the sea;
and in front waves the English flag. Across the water, the tricolor
also, and the stars and stripes, distinguish the residences
of the other consuls.

What greatly added to the picturesqueness of the bay at this
time, was the condemned hull of a large ship, which at the
farther end of the harbor lay bilged upon the beach, its stern
settled low in the water, and the other end high and dry. From

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[figure description] Page 134.[end figure description]

where we lay, the trees behind seemed to lock their leafy
boughs over its bowsprit; which, from its position, looked nearly
upright.

She was an American whaler, a very old craft. Having
sprung a leak at sea, she had made all sail for the island, to
heave down for repairs. Found utterly unseaworthy, however,
her oil was taken out and sent home in another vessel; the hull
was then stripped and sold for a trifle.

Before leaving Tahiti, I had the curiosity to go over this poor
old ship, thus stranded on a strange shore. What were my
emotions, when I saw upon her stern the name of a small town
on the river Hudson! She was from the noble stream on whose
banks I was born; in whose waters I had a hundred times
bathed. In an instant, palm-trees and elms—canoes and skiffs—
church spires and bamboos—all mingled in one vision of the
present and the past.

But we must not leave Little Jule.

At last the wishes of many were gratified; and like an aeronaut's
grapnel, her rusty little anchor was caught in the coral
groves at the bottom of Papeetee Bay. This must have been
more than forty days after leaving the Marquesas.

The sails were yet unfurled, when a boat came alongside
with our esteemed friend Wilson, the consul.

“How's this, how's this, Mr. Jermin?” he began, looking
very savage as he touched the deck. “What brings you in
without orders?”

“You did not come off to us, as you promised, sir; and there
was no hanging on longer with nobody to work the ship,” was
the blunt reply.

“So the infernal scoundrels held out—did they? Very good;
I'll make them sweat for it,” and he eyed the scowling men
with unwonted intrepidity. The truth was, he felt safer now,
than when outside the reef.

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[figure description] Page 135.[end figure description]

“Muster the mutineers on the quarter-deck,” he continued.
“Drive them aft, sir, sick and well: I have a word to say to
them.”

“Now, men,” said he, “you think it's all well with you, I
suppose. You wished the ship in, and here she is. Captain
Guy's ashore, and you think you must go too: but we'll see
about that—I'll miserably disappoint you.” (These last were
his very words.) “Mr. Jermin, call off the names of those who
did not refuse duty, and let them go over to the starboard side.”

This done, a list was made out of the “mutineers,” as he
was pleased to call the rest. Among these, the doctor and
myself were included; though the former stepped forward, and
boldly pleaded the office held by him when the vessel left Sydney.
The mate also—who had always been friendly—stated
the service rendered by myself two nights previous, as well as
my conduct when he announced his intention to enter the harbor.
For myself, I stoutly maintained, that according to the
tenor of the agreement made with Captain Guy, my time aboard
the ship had expired—the cruise being virtually at an end,
however it had been brought about—and I claimed my discharge.

But Wilson would hear nothing. Marking something in my
manner, nevertheless, he asked my name and country; and
then observed with a sneer, “Ah, you are the lad, I see, that
wrote the Round Robin; I'll take good care of you, my fine
fellow—step back, sir.”

As for poor Long Ghost, he denounced him as a “Sydney
Flash-Gorger;” though what under heaven he meant by that
euphonious title, is more than I can tell. Upon this, the doctor
gave him such a piece of his mind, that the consul furiously
commanded him to hold his peace, or he would instantly have
him seized into the rigging, and flogged. There was no help
for either of us—we were judged by the company we kept.

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[figure description] Page 136.[end figure description]

All were now sent forward; not a word being said as to what
he intended doing with us.

After a talk with the mate, the consul withdrew, going aboard
the French frigate, which lay within a cable's length. We now
suspected his object; and since matters had come to this pass,
were rejoiced at it. In a day or two the Frenchman was to
sail for Valparaiso, the usual place of rendezvous for the English
squadron in the Pacific; and doubtless, Wilson meant to put us
on board, and send us thither to be delivered up. Should our
conjecture prove correct, all we had to expect, according to
our most experienced shipmates, was the fag end of a cruise in
one of her majesty's ships, and a discharge before long at Portsmouth.

We now proceeded to put on all the clothes we could—frock
over frock, and trowsers over trowsers—so as to be in readiness
for removal at a moment's warning. Armed ships allow
nothing superfluous to litter up the deck; and therefore, should
we go aboard the frigate, our chests and their contents would
have to be left behind.

In an hour's time, the first-cutter of the Reine Blanche came
alongside, manned by eighteen or twenty sailors, armed with
cutlasses and boarding-pistols—the officers, of course, wearing
their side-arms, and the consul in an official cocked hat, borrowed
for the occasion. The boat was painted a “pirate
black,” its crew were a dark, grim-looking set, and the officers
uncommonly fierce-looking little Frenchmen. On the whole
they were calculated to intimidate—the consul's object, doubtless,
in bringing them.

Summoned aft again, every one's name was called separately;
and being solemnly reminded that it was his last chance to
escape punishment, was asked if he still refused duty. The
response was instantaneous: “Ay, sir, I do.” In some cases
followed up by divers explanatory observations, cut short by

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[figure description] Page 137.[end figure description]

Wilson's ordering the delinquent into the cutter. As a general
thing, the order was promptly obeyed—some taking a sequence
of hops, skips, and jumps, by way of showing, not only their
unimpaired activity of body, but their alacrity in complying
with all reasonable requests.

Having avowed their resolution not to pull another rope of
the Julia's—even if at once restored to perfect health—all the
invalids, with the exception of the two to be set ashore, accompanied
us into the cutter. They were in high spirits; so much
so, that something was insinuated about their not having been
quite as ill as pretended.

The cooper's name was the last called; we did not hear
what he answered, but he stayed behind. Nothing was done
about the Mowree.

Shoving clear from the ship, three loud cheers were raised;
Flash Jack and others receiving a sharp reprimand for it from
the consul.

“Good-by, Little Jule,” cried Navy Bob, as we swept under
the bows. “Don't fall overboard, Ropey,” said another to the
poor land-lubber, who, with Wymontoo, the Dane, and others
left behind, was looking over at us from the forecastle.

“Give her three more!” cried Salem, springing to his feet
and whirling his hat round. “You sacre dam raskeel,” shouted
the lieutenant of the party, bringing the flat of his sabre across
his shoulders, “you now keepy steel.”

The doctor and myself, more discreet, sat quietly in the bow
of the cutter; and for my own part, though I did not repent
what I had done, my reflections were far from being enviable.

eaf274.n12

[12] The Newtonian theory concerning the tides does not hold good at
Tahiti; where, throughout the year, the waters uniformly commence ebbing
at noon and midnight, and flow about sunset and daybreak. Hence the
term Tooerar-Po is used alike to express high-water and midnight.

-- 138 --

p274-145 CHAPTER XXVIII. RECEPTION FROM THE FRENCHMAN.

[figure description] Page 138.[end figure description]

In a few moments, we were paraded in the frigate's gangway;
the first lieutenant—an elderly, yellow-faced officer, in an ill-cut
coat and tarnished gold lace—coming up, and frowning upon us.

This gentleman's head was a mere bald spot; his legs, sticks;
in short, his whole physical vigor seemed exhausted in the production
of one enormous moustache. Old Gamboge, as he was
forthwith christened, now received a paper from the consul;
and, opening it, proceeded to compare the goods delivered with
the invoice.

After being thoroughly counted, a meek little midshipman
was called, and we were soon after given in custody to half-a-dozen
sailor-soldiers—fellows with tarpaulins and muskets.
Preceded by a pompous functionary (whom we took for one of
the ship's corporals, from his ratan and the gold lace on his
sleeve), we were now escorted down the ladders to the berth-deck.

Here we were politely handcuffed, all round; the man with
the bamboo evincing the utmost solicitude in giving us a good
fit from a large basket of the articles of assorted sizes.

Taken by surprise at such an uncivil reception, a few of the
party demurred; but all coyness was, at last, overcome; and
finally our feet were inserted into heavy anklets of iron, running
along a great bar bolted down to the deck. After this,
we considered ourselves permanently established in our new
quarters.

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[figure description] Page 139.[end figure description]

“The deuse take their old iron!” exclaimed the doctor; “if
I'd known this, I'd stayed behind.”

“Ha, ha!” cried Flash Jack, “you're in for it, Doctor Long
Ghost.”

“My hands and feet are, any way,” was the reply.

They placed a sentry over us; a great lubber of a fellow,
who marched up and down with a dilapidated old cutlass of
most extraordinary dimensions. From its length, we had some
idea that it was expressly intended to keep a crowd in order—
reaching over the heads of half-a-dozen, say, so as to get a cut
at somebody behind.

“Mercy!” ejaculated the doctor with a shudder, “what a
sensation it must be to be killed by such a tool.”

We fasted till night, when one of the boys came along with
a couple of “kids” containing a thin, saffron-colored fluid, with
oily particles floating on top. The young wag told us this was
soup: it turned out to be nothing more than oleaginous warm
water. Such as it was, nevertheless, we were fain to make a
meal of it, our sentry being attentive enough to undo our
bracelets. The “kids” passed from mouth to mouth, and were
soon emptied.

The next morning, when the sentry's back was turned, some
one, whom we took for an English sailor, tossed over a few
oranges, the rinds of which we afterward used for cups.

On the second day nothing happened worthy of record. On
the third, we were amused by the following scene.

A man, whom we supposed a boatswain's mate, from the silver
whistle hanging from his neck, came below, driving before
him a couple of blubbering boys, and followed by a whole
troop of youngsters in tears. The pair, it seemed, were sent
down to be punished by command of an officer; the rest had
accompanied them out of sympathy.

The boatswain's mate went to work without delay, seizing

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[figure description] Page 140.[end figure description]

the poor little culprits by their loose frocks, and using a ratan
without mercy. The other boys wept, clasped their hands, and
fell on their knees; but in vain; the boatswain's mate only hit
out at them; once in a while making them yell ten times louder
than ever.

In the midst of the tumult, down comes a midshipman, who,
with a great air, orders the man on deck, and running in among
the boys, sets them to scampering in all directions.

The whole of this proceeding was regarded with infinite
scorn by Navy Bob, who, years before, had been captain of the
foretop on board a line-of-battle ship. In his estimation, it was
a lubberly piece of business throughout: they did things differently
in the English navy.

-- 141 --

p274-148 CHAPTER XXIX. THE REINE BLANCHE.

[figure description] Page 141.[end figure description]

I can not forbear a brief reflection upon the scene ending
the last chapter.

The ratanning of the young culprits, although significant of
the imperfect discipline of a French man-of-war, may also be
considered as in some measure characteristic of the nation.

In an American or English ship, a boy, when flogged, is
either lashed to the breech of a gun, or brought right up to the
gratings, the same way the men are. But as a general rule, he
is never punished beyond his strength. You seldom or never
draw a cry from the young rogue. He bites his tongue, and
stands up to it like a hero. If practicable (which is not always
the case), he makes a point of smiling under the operation.
And so far from his companions taking any compassion on him,
they always make merry over his misfortunes. Should he turn
baby and cry, they are pretty sure to give him afterward a sly
pounding in some dark corner.

This tough training produces its legitimate results.[13] The
boy becomes, in time, a thorough-bred tar, equally ready to
strip and take a dozen on board his own ship, or, cutlass in
hand, dash pell-mell on board the enemy's. Whereas the
young Frenchman, as all the world knows, makes but an

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[figure description] Page 142.[end figure description]

indifferent seaman; and though, for the most part, he fights well
enough, some how or other he seldom fights well enough to beat.

How few sea-battles have the French ever won! But more:
how few ships have they ever carried by the board—that true
criterion of naval courage! But not a word against French
bravery—there is plenty of it; but not of the right sort. A
Yankee's, or an Englishman's is the downright Waterloo
“game.” The French fight better on land; and not being essentially
a maritime people, they ought to stay there. The
best of shipwrights, they are no sailors.

And this carries me back to the Reine Blanche, as noble a
specimen of what wood and iron can make, as ever floated.

She was a new ship: the present her maiden cruise. The greatest
pains having been taken in her construction, she was accounted
the “crack” craft in the French navy. She is one of
the heavy sixty-gun frigates now in vogue all over the world,
and which we Yankees were the first to introduce. In action,
these are the most murderous vessels ever lanched.

The model of the Reine Blanche has all that warlike comeliness
only to be seen in a fine fighting-ship. Still, there is a
good deal of French flummery about her—brass-plates and
other gewgaws, stuck on all over, like baubles on a handsome
woman.

Among other things, she carries a stern gallery resting on the
uplifted hands of two Caryatides, larger than life. You step
out upon this from the commodore's cabin. To behold the
rich hangings, and mirrors, and mahogany within, one is almost
prepared to see a bevy of ladies trip forth on the balcony for
an airing.

But come to tread the gun-deck, and all thoughts like these
are put to flight. Such batteries of thunderbolt hurlers! with
a sixty-eight-pounder or two thrown in as make-weights. On
the spar-deck, also, are carronades of enormous caliber.

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[figure description] Page 143.[end figure description]

Recently built, this vessel, of course, had the benefit of the
latest improvements. I was quite amazed to see on what high
principles of art, some exceedingly simple things were done.
But your Gaul is scientific about every thing; what other people
accomplish by a few hard knocks, he delights in achieving
by a complex arrangement of the pulley, lever, and screw.

What demi-semi-quavers in a French air! In exchanging
naval courtesies, I have known a French band play “Yankee
Doodle” with such a string of variations, that no one but a
“pretty 'cute” Yankee could tell what they were at.

In the French navy they have no marines; their men, taking
turns at carrying the musket, are sailors one moment, and
soldiers the next; a fellow running aloft in his line-frock to-day,
to-morrow stands sentry at the admiral's cabin-door. This is
fatal to any thing like proper sailor pride. To make a man a
seaman, he should be put to no other duty. Indeed, a thorough
tar is unfit for any thing else; and what is more, this fact is the
best evidence of his being a true sailor.

On board the Reine Blanche, they did not have enough to
eat; and what they did have, was not of the right sort. Instead
of letting the sailors file their teeth against the rim of a hard
sea-biscuit, they baked their bread daily in pitiful little rolls.
Then they had no “grog;” as a substitute, they drugged the
poor fellows with a thin, sour wine—the juice of a few
grapes, perhaps, to a pint of the juice of water-facets. Moreover,
the sailors asked for meat, and they gave them soup; a
rascally substitute, as they well knew.

Ever since leaving home, they had been on “short allowance.”
At the present time, those belonging to the boats—and
thus getting an occasional opportunity to run ashore—frequently
sold their rations of bread to some less fortunate shipmate for
sixfold its real value.

Another thing tending to promote dissatisfaction among the

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crew was, their having such a devil of a fellow for a captain.
He was one of those horrid naval bores—a great disciplinarian.
In port, he kept them constantly exercising yards and sails,
and manœuvering with the boats; and at sea, they were forever
at quarters; running in and out the enormous guns, as if their
arms were made for nothing else. Then there was the admiral
aboard, also; and, no doubt, he too had a paternal eye
over them.

In the ordinary routine of duty, we could not but be struck
with the listless, slovenly behavior of these men; there was
nothing of the national vivacity in their movements; nothing
of the quick precision perceptible on the deck of a thoroughly
disciplined armed vessel.

All this, however, when we came to know the reason, was
no matter of surprise; three fourths of them were pressed
men. Some old merchant sailors had been seized the very day
they landed from distant voyages; while the landsmen, of
whom there were many, had been driven down from the country
in herds, and so sent to sea.

At the time, I was quite amazed to hear of press-gangs in a
day of comparative peace; but the anomaly is accounted for
by the fact, that, of late, the French have been building up a
great military marine, to take the place of that which Nelson
gave to the waves of the sea at Trafalgar. But it is to be hoped,
that they are not building their ships for the people across the
channel to take. In case of a war, what a fluttering of French
ensigns there would be!

Though I say the French are no sailors, I am far from seeking
to underrate them as a people. They are an ingenious and
right gallant nation. And, as an American, I take pride in
asserting it.

eaf274.n13

[13] I do not wish to be understood as applauding the flogging system
practiced in men-of-war. As long, however, as navies are needed, there
is no substitute for it. War being the greatest of evils, all its accessories
necessarily partake of the same character; and this is about all that can
be said in defense of flogging.

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p274-152 CHAPTER XXX. THEY TAKE US ASHORE. —WHAT HAPPENED THERE.

[figure description] Page 145.[end figure description]

Five days and nights, if I remember right, we were aboard
the frigate. On the afternoon of the fifth, we were told that the
next morning she sailed for Valparaiso. Rejoiced at this, we
prayed for a speedy passage. But, as it turned out, the consul
had no idea of letting us off so easily. To our no small surprise,
an officer came along toward night, and ordered us out
of irons. Being then mustered in the gangway, we were escorted
into a cutter alongside, and pulled ashore.

Accosted by Wilson as we struck the beach, he delivered us
up to a numerous guard of natives, who at once conducted us
to a house near by. Here we were made to sit down under a
shade without; and the consul and two elderly European residents
passed by us, and entered.

After some delay, during which we were much diverted by
the hilarious good-nature of our guard—one of our number was
called out for, followed by an order for him to enter the house
alone.

On returning a moment after, he told us we had little to encounter.
It had simply been asked, whether he still continued
of the same mind; on replying yes, something was put down
upon a piece of paper, and he was waved outside. All being
summoned in rotation, my own turn came at last.

Within, Wilson and his two friends were seated magisterially
at a table—an inkstand, a pen, and a sheet of paper, lending
quite a business-like air to the apartment. These three

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gentlemen, being arrayed in coats and pantaloons, looked respectable,
at least in a country where complete suits of garments
are so seldom met with. One present essayed a solemn
aspect; but having a short neck and a full face, only made
out to look stupid.

It was this individual who condescended to take a paternal
interest in myself. After declaring my resolution with respect
to the ship unalterable, I was proceeding to withdraw, in compliance
with a sign from the consul, when the stranger turned
round to him, saying, “Wait a minute, if you please, Mr. Wilson;
let me talk to that youth. Come here, my young friend:
I'm extremely sorry to see you associated with these bad men;
do you know what it will end in?”

“Oh, that's the lad that wrote the Round Robin,” interposed
the consul. “He and that rascally doctor are at the bottom of
the whole affair—go outside, sir.”

I retired as from the presence of royalty; backing out with
many bows.

The evident prejudice of Wilson against both the doctor and
myself, was by no means inexplicable. A man of any education
before the mast is always looked upon with dislike by his
captain; and, never mind how peaceable he may be, should
any disturbance arise, from his intellectual superiority, he is
deemed to exert an underhand influence against the officers.

Little as I had seen of Captain Guy, the few glances cast
upon me after being on board a week or so, were sufficient to
reveal his enmity—a feeling quickened by my undisguised companionship
with Long Ghost, whom he both feared and cordially
hated. Guy's relations with the consul, readily explains
the latter's hostility.

The examination over, Wilson and his friends advanced to
the doorway; when the former, assuming a severe expression,
pronounced our perverseness, infatuation in the extreme. Nor

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was there any hope left: our last chance for pardon was gone.
Even were we to become contrite, and crave permission to return
to duty, it would not now be permitted.

“Oh! get along with your gammon, counselor,” exclaimed
Black Dan, absolutely indignant that his understanding should
be thus insulted.

Quite enraged, Wilson bade him hold his peace; and then,
summoning a fat old native to his side, addressed him in Tahitian,
giving directions for leading us away to a place of safe
keeping.

Hereupon, being marshaled in order, with the old man at
our head, we were put in motion, with loud shouts, along a fine
pathway, running far on, through wide groves of the cocoa-nut
and bread-fruit.

The rest of our escort trotted on beside us in high good-humor;
jabbering broken English, and in a hundred ways giving
us to understand that Wilson was no favorite of theirs, and that
we were prime, good fellows for holding out as we did. They
seemed to know our whole history.

The scenery around was delightful. The tropical day was
fast drawing to a close; and from where we were, the sun
looked like a vast red fire burning in the woodlands—its rays
falling aslant through the endless ranks of trees, and every leaf
fringed with flame. Escaped from the confined decks of the
frigate, the air breathed spices to us; streams were heard flowing;
green boughs were rocking; and far inland, all sunset
flushed, rose the still, steep peaks of the island.

As we proceeded, I was more and more struck by the picturesqueness
of the wide, shaded road. In several places, durable
bridges of wood were thrown over large water-courses; others
were spanned by a single arch of stone. In any part of the
road, three horsemen might have ridden abreast.

This beautiful avenue—by far the best thing which civiliza

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tion has done for the island—is called by foreigners “the Broom
Road,” though for what reason I do not know. Originally
planned for the convenience of the missionaries journeying from
one station to another, it almost completely encompasses the
larger peninsula; skirting for a distance of at least sixty miles
along the low, fertile lands bordering the sea. But on the side
next Taiarboo, or the lesser peninsula, it sweeps through a narrow,
secluded valley, and thus crosses the island in that direction.

The uninhabited interior, being almost impenetrable from
the densely wooded glens, frightful precipices, and sharp mountain
ridges absolutely inaccessible, is but little known, even to
the natives themselves; and so, instead of striking directly
across from one village to another, they follow the Broom
Road round and round.[14]

It is by no means, however, altogether traveled on foot;
horses being now quite plentiful. They were introduced from
Chili; and possessing all the gayety, fleetness, and docility of
the Spanish breed, are admirably adapted to the tastes of the
higher classes, who as equestrians have become very expert.
The missionaries and chiefs never think of journeying except
in the saddle; and at all hours of the day, you see the latter
galloping along at full speed. Like the Sandwich Islanders,
they ride like Pawnee-Loups.

For miles and miles I have traveled the Broom Road, and

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never wearied of the continual change of scenery. But whereever
it leads you—whether through level woods, across grassy
glens, or over hills waving with palms—the bright blue sea on
one side, and the green mountain pinnacles on the other, are
always in sight.

eaf274.n14

[14] Concerning the singular ignorance of the natives respecting their own
country, it may be here observed, that a considerable inland lake—Whaiherea
by name—is known to exist, although their accounts of it strangely
vary. Some told me it had no bottom, no outlet, and no inlet; others, that
it fed all the streams on the island. A sailor of my acquaintance said,
that he once visited this marvelous lake, as one of an exploring party
from an English sloop-of-war. It was found to be a great curiosity: very
small, deep, and green; a choice well of water bottled up among the mountains,
and abounding with delicious fish.

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p274-157 CHAPTER XXXI. THE CALABOOZA BERETANEE.

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About a mile from the village we came to a halt.

It was a beautiful spot. A mountain stream here flowed at
the foot of a verdant slope; on one hand, it murmured along
until the waters, spreading themselves upon a beach of small,
sparkling shells, trickled into the sea; on the other, was a long
defile, where the eye pursued a gleaming, sinuous thread, lost
in shade and verdure.

The ground next the road was walled in by a low, rude
parapet of stones; and, upon the summit of the slope beyond,
was a large, native house, the thatch dazzling white, and, in
shape, an oval.

“Calabooza! Calabooza Beretanee!” (the English Jail),
cried our conductor, pointing to the building.

For a few months past, having been used by the consul as a
house of confinement for his refractory sailors, it was thus
styled to distinguish it from similar places in and about
Papeetee.

Though extremely romantic in appearance, on a near approach
it proved but ill adapted to domestic comfort. In
short, it was a mere shell, recently built, and still unfinished.
It was open all round, and tufts of grass were growing here
and there under the very roof. The only piece of furniture
was the “stocks,” a clumsy machine for keeping people in
one place, which, I believe, is pretty much out of date in most
countries. It is still in use, however, among the Spaniards in

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South America; from whom, it seems, the Tahitians have borrowed
the contrivance, as well as the name by which all places
of confinement are known among them.

The stocks were nothing more than two stout timbers, about
twenty feet in length, and precisely alike. One was placed
edgeways on the ground, and the other resting on top, left, at
regular intervals along the seam, several round holes, the object
of which was evident at a glance.

By this time, our guide had informed us, that he went by the
name of “Capin Bob” (Captain Bob); and a hearty old Bob he
proved. It was just the name for him. From the first, so
pleased were we with the old man, that we cheerfully acquiesced
in his authority.

Entering the building, he set us about fetching heaps of dry
leaves to spread behind the stocks for a couch. A trunk of a
small cocoa-nut tree was then placed for a bolster—rather a
hard one, but the natives are used to it. For a pillow, they
use a little billet of wood, scooped out, and standing on four
short legs—a sort of head-stool.

These arrangements completed, Captain Bob proceeded to
“hannapar,” or secure us, for the night. The upper timber
of the machine being lifted at one end, and our ankles placed
in the semicircular spaces of the lower one, the other beam
was then dropped; both being finally secured together by an
old iron hoop at either extremity. This initiation was performed
to the boisterous mirth of the natives, and diverted ourselves
not a little.

Captain Bob now bustled about, like an old woman seeing
the children to bed. A basket of baked “taro,” or Indian
turnip, was brought in, and we were given a piece all round.
Then a great counterpane, of coarse, brown “tappa,” was
stretched over the whole party; and, after sundry injunctions
to “moee-moee,” and be “maitai”—in other words, to go to

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sleep, and be good boys—we were left to ourselves, fairly put
to bed and tucked in.

Much talk was now had concerning our prospects in life;
but the doctor and I, who lay side by side, thinking the occasion
better adapted to meditation, kept pretty silent; and, before
long, the rest ceased conversing, and, wearied with loss
of rest on board the frigate, were soon sound asleep.

After sliding from one revery into another, I started, and
gave the doctor a pinch. He was dreaming, however; and,
resolved to follow his example, I troubled him no more.

How the rest managed, I know not; but, for my own part,
I found it very hard to get asleep. The consciousness of
having one's foot pinned; and the impossibility of getting it
anywhere else than just where it was, was most distressing.

But this was not all: there was no way of lying but straight
on your back; unless, to be sure, one's limb went round and
round in the ankle, like a swivel. Upon getting into a sort
of doze, it was no wonder this uneasy posture gave me the
nightmare. Under the delusion that I was about some gymnastics
or other, I gave my unfortunate member such a twitch,
that I started up with the idea that some one was dragging the
stocks away.

Captain Bob and his friends lived in a little hamlet hard by;
and when morning showed in the East, the old gentleman
came forth from that direction likewise, emerging from a
grove, and saluting us loudly as he approached.

Finding every body awake, he set us at liberty; and, leading
us down to the stream, ordered every man to strip and
bathe.

“All han's, my boy, hanna-hanna, wash!” he cried. Bob
was a linguist, and had been to sea in his day, as he many a
time afterward told us.

At this moment, we were all alone with him; and it would

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have been the easiest thing in the world to have given him the
slip; but he seemed to have no idea of such a thing; treating
us so frankly and cordially, indeed, that even had we thought
of running, we would have been ashamed of attempting it.
He very well knew, nevertheless (as we ourselves were not
slow in finding out), that, for various reasons, any attempt
of the kind, without some previously arranged plan for leaving
the island, would be certain to fail.

As Bob was a rare one every way, I must give some account
of him. There was a good deal of “personal appearance”
about him; in short, he was a corpulent giant, over six
feet in height, and literally as big round as a hogshead. The
enormous bulk of some of the Tahitians has been frequently
spoken of by voyagers.

Beside being the English consul's jailer, as it were, he
carried on a little Tahitian farming; that is to say, he owned
several groves of the bread-fruit and palm, and never hindered
their growing. Close by was a “taro” patch of his, which he
occasionally visited.

Bob seldom disposed of the produce of his lands; it was all
needed for domestic consumption. Indeed, for gormandizing,
I would have matched him against any three common-council
men at a civic feast.

A friend of Bob's told me, that, owing to his voraciousness,
his visits to other parts of the island were much dreaded; for,
according to Tahitian customs, hospitality without charge is
enjoined upon every one; and though it is reciprocal in most
cases, in Bob's it was almost out of the question. The damage
done to a native larder in one of his morning calls, was more
than could be made good by his entertainer's spending the
holydays with him.

The old man, as I have hinted, had, once upon a time, been
a cruise or two in a whaling-vessel; and, therefore, he prided

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himself upon his English. Having acquired what he knew of
it in the forecastle, he talked little else than sailor phrases, which
sounded whimsically enough.

I asked him one day how old he was. “Olee?” he exclaimed,
looking very profound in consequence of thoroughly understanding
so subtile a question—“Oh! very olee—'tousand 'ear—
more—big man when Capin Tootee (Captain Cook) heavey
in sight.” (In sea parlance, came into view.)

This was a thing impossible; but adapting my discourse to
the man, I rejoined—“Ah! you see Capin Tootee—well, how
you like him?”

“Oh! he maitai: (good) friend of me, and know my
wife.”

On my assuring him strongly, that he could not have been born
at the time, he explained himself by saying, that he was speaking
of his father, all the while. This, indeed, might very well
have been.

It is a curious fact, that all these people, young and old, will
tell you that they have enjoyed the honor of a personal acquaintance
with the great navigator; and if you listen to them, they
will go on and tell anecdotes without end. This springs from
nothing but their great desire to please; well knowing that a
more agreeable topic for a white man could not be selected.
As for the anachronism of the thing, they seem to have no idea
of it: days and years are all the same to them.

After our sunrise bath, Bob once more placed us in the stocks,
almost moved to tears at subjecting us to so great a hardship;
but he could not treat us otherwise, he said, on pain of the
consul's displeasure. How long we were to be confined, he did
not know; nor what was to be done with us in the end.

As noon advanced, and no signs of a meal were visible, some
one inquired whether we were to be boarded, as well as lodged,
at the Hotel de Calabooza?

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“Vast heavey” (avast heaving, or wait a bit)—said Bob—
“kow-kow” (food) “come ship by by.”

And, sure enough, along comes Rope Yarn with a wooden
bucket of the Julia's villainous biscuit. With a grin, he said it
was a present from Wilson; it was all we were to get that day.
A great cry was now raised; and well was it for the land-lubber,
that he had a pair of legs, and the men could not use theirs.
One and all, we resolved not to touch the bread, come what
come might; and so we told the natives.

Being extravagantly fond of ship-biscuit—the harder the
better—they were quite overjoyed; and offered to give us every
day, a small quantity of baked bread-fruit and Indian turnip in
exchange for the bread. This we agreed to; and every morning
afterward, when the bucket came, its contents were at once
handed over to Bob and his friends, who never ceased munching
until nightfall.

Our exceedingly frugal meal of bread-fruit over, Captain
Bob waddled up to us with a couple of long poles hooked at
one end, and several large baskets of woven cocoa-nut branches.

Not far off was an extensive grove of orange-trees in full
bearing; and myself and another were selected to go with him,
and gather a supply for the party. When we went in among
the trees, the sumptuousness of the orchard was unlike any thing
I had ever seen; while the fragrance shaken from the gently
waving boughs, regaled our senses most delightfully.

In many places the trees formed a dense shade, spreading
overhead a dark, rustling vault, groined with boughs, and
studded here and there with the ripened spheres, like gilded
balls. In several places, the overladen branches were borne to
the earth, hiding the trunk in a tent of foliage. Once fairly in
the grove, we could see nothing else; it was oranges all
round.

To preserve the fruit from bruising, Bob, hooking the twigs

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with his pole, let them fall into his basket. But this would not
do for us. Seizing hold of a bough, we brought such a shower
to the ground, that our old friend was fain to run from under.
Heedless of remonstrance, we then reclined in the shade, and
feasted to our heart's content. Heaping up the baskets afterward,
we returned to our comrades, by whom our arrival was
hailed with loud plaudits; and in a marvelously short time,
nothing was left of the oranges we brought, but the rinds.

While inmates of the Calabooza, we had as much of the
fruit as we wanted; and to this cause, and others that might be
mentioned, may be ascribed the speedy restoration of our sick
to comparative health.

The orange of Tahiti is delicious—small and sweet, with a
thin, dry rind. Though now abounding, it was unknown
before Cook's time, to whom the natives are indebted for so
great a blessing. He likewise introduced several other kinds
of fruit; among these were the fig, pine-apple, and lemon, now
seldom met with. The lime still grows, and some of the
poorer natives express the juice to sell to the shipping. It is
highly valued as an anti-scorbutic. Nor was the variety of
foreign fruits and vegetables which were introduced, the only
benefit conferred by the first visitors to the Society group.
Cattle and sheep were left at various places. More of them
anon.

Thus, after all that of late years has been done for these
islanders, Cook and Vancouver may, in one sense at least, be
considered their greatest benefactors.

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p274-164 CHAPTER XXXII. PROCEEDINGS OF THE FRENCH AT TAHITI.

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As I happened to arrive at the island at a very interesting
period in its political affairs, it may be well to give some little
account here of the proceedings of the French, by way of
episode to the narrative. My information was obtained at the
time from the general reports then rife among the natives, as
well as from what I learned upon a subsequent visit, and reliable
accounts which I have seen since reaching home.

It seems, that for some time back the French had been
making repeated ineffectual attempts to plant a Roman Catholic
mission here. But, invariably treated with contumely, they
sometimes met with open violence; and, in every case, those
directly concerned in the enterprise were ultimately forced to
depart. In one instance, two priests, Laval and Caset, after
enduring a series of persecutions, were set upon by the natives,
maltreated, and finally carried aboard a small trading schooner,
which eventually put them ashore at Wallis' island—a savage
place—some two thousand miles to the westward.

Now, that the resident English missionaries authorized the
banishment of these priests, is a fact undenied by themselves.
I was also repeatedly informed, that by their inflammatory harangues
they instigated the riots which preceded the sailing of
the schooner. At all events, it is certain that their unbounded
influence with the natives would easily have enabled them to
prevent every thing that took place on this occasion, had they
felt so inclined.

Melancholy as such an example of intolerance on the part of

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Protestant missionaries must appear, it is not the only one, and
by no means the most flagrant, which might be presented. But
I forbear to mention any others; since they have been more than
hinted at by recent voyagers, and their repetition here would
perhaps be attended with no good effect. Besides, the conduct
of the Sandwich Island missionaries in particular, has latterly
much amended in this respect.

The treatment of the two priests formed the principal ground
(and the only justifiable one) upon which Du Petit Thouars
demanded satisfaction; and which subsequently led to his
seizure of the island. In addition to other things, he also
charged, that the flag of Merenhout, the consul, had been repeatedly
insulted, and the property of a certain French resident
violently appropriated by the government. In the latter instance,
the natives were perfectly in the right. At that time, the
law against the traffic in ardent spirits (every now and then
suspended and revived) happened to be in force; and finding
a large quantity on the premises of Victor, a low, knavish adventurer
from Marseilles, the Tahitians pronounced it forfeit.

For these, and similar alledged outrages, a large pecuniary
restitution was demanded ($10,000), which there being no
exchequer to supply, the island was forthwith seized, under
cover of a mock treaty, dictated to the chiefs on the gun-deck
of Du Petit Thouar's frigate. But, notwithstanding this formality,
there now seems little doubt that the downfall of the
Pomarees was decided upon at the Tuilleries.

After establishing the Protectorate, so called, the rear-admiral
sailed; leaving M. Bruat governor, assisted by Reine
and Carpegne, civilians, named members of the Council of
Government, and Merenhout, the consul, now made Commissioner
Royal. No soldiers, however, were landed, until
several months afterward. As men, Reine and Carpegne were
not disliked by the natives; but Bruat and Merenhout they

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bitterly detested. In several interviews with the poor queen,
the unfeeling governor sought to terrify her into compliance
with his demands; clapping his hand upon his sword, shaking
his fist in her face, and swearing violently. “Oh, king of a
great nation,” said Pomaree, in her letter to Louis Phillipe,
“fetch away this man; I and my people can not endure his
evil doings. He is a shameless man.”

Although the excitement among the natives did not wholly
subside upon the rear-admiral's departure, no overt act of
violence immediately followed. The queen had fled to Imeeo;
and the dissensions among the chiefs, together with the ill
advised conduct of the missionaries, prevented a union upon
some common plan of resistance. But the great body of the
people, as well as their queen, confidently relied upon the
speedy interposition of England—a nation bound to them by
many ties, and which, more than once, had solemnly guarantied
their independence.

As for the missionaries, they openly defied the French
governor, childishly predicting fleets and armies from Britain.
But what is the welfare of a spot like Tahiti, to the mighty
interests of France and England! There was a remonstrance
on one side, and a reply on the other; and there the matter
rested. For once in their brawling lives, St. George and St.
Denis were hand and glove; and they were not going to cross
sabres about Tahiti.

During my stay upon the island, so far as I could see, there
was little to denote that any change had taken place in the
government. Such laws as they had were administered the
same as ever; the missionaries went about unmolested, and
comparative tranquillity everywhere prevailed. Nevertheless,
I sometimes heard the natives inveighing against the French
(no favorites, by the by, throughout Polynesia), and bitterly
regretting that the queen had not, at the outset, made a stand.

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In the house of the chief Adeea, frequent discussions took
place, concerning the ability of the island to cope with the
French: the number of fighting men and muskets among the
natives were talked of, as well as the propriety of fortifying
several heights overlooking Papeetee. Imputing these symptoms
to the mere resentment of a recent outrage, and not to
any determined spirit of resistance, I little anticipated the
gallant, though useless warfare, so soon to follow my departure.

At a period subsequent to my first visit, the island, which
before was divided into nineteen districts, with a native chief
over each, in capacity of governor and judge, was, by Bruat,
divided into four. Over these he set as many recreant chiefs,
Kitoti, Tati, Utamai, and Paraita; to whom he paid $1000 each,
to secure their assistance in carrying out his evil designs.

The first blood shed, in any regular conflict, was at Mahanar,
upon the peninsula of Taraiboo. The fight originated in the
seizure of a number of women from the shore, by men belonging
to one of the French vessels of war. In this affair, the
islanders fought desperately, killing about fifty of the enemy,
and losing ninety of their own number. The French sailors
and marines, who, at the time, were reported to be infuriated
with liquor, gave no quarter; and the survivors only saved
themselves by fleeing to the mountains. Subsequently, the
battles of Hararparpi and Fararar were fought, in which the
invaders met with indifferent success.

Shortly after the engagement at Hararparpi, three Frenchmen
were waylaid in a pass of the valleys, and murdered by
the incensed natives. One was Lefevre, a notorious scoundrel,
and a spy, whom Bruat had sent to conduct a certain Major
Fergus (said to be a Pole), to the hiding-place of four chiefs,
whom the governor wished to seize and execute. This circumstance
violently inflamed the hostility of both parties.

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About this time, Kitoti, a depraved chief, and the pliant
tool of Bruat, was induced by him to give a great feast in the
Vale of Paree, to which all his countrymen were invited.
The governor's object was to gain over all he could to his
interests; he supplied an abundance of wine and brandy, and
a scene of bestial intoxication was the natural consequence.
Before it came to this, however, several speeches were made
by the islanders. One of these, delivered by an aged warrior,
who had formerly been at the head of the celebrated Aeorai
Society, was characteristic. “This is a very good feast,” said
the reeling old man, “and the wine also is very good; but you
evil-minded Wee-Wees (French), and you false-hearted men of
Tahiti, are all very bad.”

By the latest accounts, most of the islanders still refuse to
submit to the French; and what turn events may hereafter
take, it is hard to predict. At any rate, these disorders must
accelerate the final extinction of their race.

Along with the few officers left by Du Petit Thouars, were
several French priests, for whose unobstructed exertions in
the dissemination of their faith, the strongest guaranties were
provided by an article of the treaty. But no one was bound
to offer them facilities; much less a luncheon, the first day
they went ashore. True, they had plenty of gold; but to the
natives it was anathema—taboo—and, for several hours and
some odd minutes, they would not touch it. Emissaries of the
Pope and the devil, as the strangers were considered—the
smell of sulphur hardly yet shaken out of their canonicals—
what islander would venture to jeopardize his soul, and call
down a blight on his bread-fruit, by holding any intercourse
with them! That morning the priests actually picknicked in a
grove of cocoa-nut trees; but, before night, Christian hospitality—
in exchange for a commercial equivalent of hard dollars—
was given them in an adjoining house.

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Wanting in civility, as the conduct of the English missionaries
may be thought, in withholding a decent reception to
these persons, the latter were certainly to blame in needlessly
placing themselves in so unpleasant a predicament. Under
far better auspices, they might have settled upon some one
of the thousand unconverted isles of the Pacific, rather than
have forced themselves thus, upon a people already professedly
Christians.

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p274-170 CHAPTER XXXIII. WE RECEIVE CALLS AT THE HOTEL DE CALABOOZA.

[figure description] Page 163.[end figure description]

Our place of confinement being open all round, and so
near the Broom Road, of course we were in plain sight of
every body passing; and, therefore, we had no lack of visitors
among such an idle, inquisitive set, as the Tahitians. For a
few days, they were coming and going continually; while
thus ignobly fast by the foot, we were fain to give passive
audience.

During this period, we were the lions of the neighborhood;
and, no doubt, strangers from the distant villages were taken
to see the “Karhowrees” (white men), in the same way that
countrymen, in a city, are gallanted to the Zoological Gardens.

All this gave us a fine opportunity of making observations.
I was painfully struck by the considerable number of sickly or
deformed persons; undoubtedly made so by a virulent complaint,
which, under native treatment, almost invariably affects,
in the end, the muscles and bones of the body. In particular,
there is a distortion of the back, most unsightly to behold,
originating in a horrible form of the malady.

Although this, and other bodily afflictions, were unknown before
the discovery of the islands by the whites, there are several
cases found of the Fa-Fa, or Elephantiasis—a native disease,
which seems to have prevailed among them from the earliest
antiquity. Affecting the legs and feet alone, it swells them, in
some instances, to the girth of a man's body, covering the skin
with scales. It might be supposed, that one, thus afflicted,

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would be incapable of walking; but, to all appearance, they
seem to be nearly as active as any body; apparently, suffering
no pain, and bearing the calamity with a degree of cheerfulness
truly marvelous.

The Fa-Fa is very gradual in its approaches, and years
elapse before the limb is fully swollen. Its origin is ascribed
by the natives to various causes; but the general impression
seems to be, that it arises, in most cases, from the eating of unripe
bread-fruit and Indian turnip. So far as I could find out,
it is not hereditary. In no stage do they attempt a cure; the
complaint being held incurable.

Speaking of the Fa-Fa, reminds me of a poor fellow, a sailor,
whom I afterward saw at Roorootoo, a lone island, some two
days' sail from Tahiti.

The island is very small, and its inhabitants nearly extinct.
We sent a boat off to see whether any yams were to be had, as
formerly, the yams of Roorootoo were as famous among the
islands round about, as Sicily oranges in the Mediterranean.
Going ashore, to my surprise, I was accosted, near a little
shanty of a church, by a white man, who limped forth from a
wretched hut. His hair and beard were unshorn, his face
deadly pale and haggard, and one limb swelled with the Fa-Fa
to an incredible bigness. This was the first instance of a
foreigner suffering from it, that I had ever seen, or heard of;
and the spectacle shocked me accordingly.

He had been there for years. From the first symptoms,
he could not believe his complaint to be what it really was,
and trusted it would soon disappear. But when it became
plain, that his only chance for recovery was a speedy change
of climate, no ship would receive him as a sailor: to think of
being taken as a passenger, was idle. This speaks little for the
humanity of sea captains; but the truth is, that those in the
Pacific have little enough of the virtue; and, nowadays, when

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so many charitable appeals are made to them, they have become
callous.

I pitied the poor fellow from the bottom of my heart; but
nothing could I do, as our captain was inexorable. “Why,”
said he, “here we are—started on a six months' cruise—I can't
put back; and he is better off on the island than at sea. So
on Roorootoo he must die.” And probably he did.

I afterward heard of this melancholy object, from two sea-men.
His attempts to leave were still unavailing, and his hard
fate was fast closing in.

Notwithstanding the physical degeneracy of the Tahitians
as a people, among the chiefs, individuals of personable figures
are still frequently met with; and, occasionally, majestic-looking
men, and diminutive women as lovely as the nymphs who,
nearly a century ago, swam round the ships of Wallis. In
these instances, Tahitian beauty is quite as seducing as it
proved to the crew of the Bounty; the young girls being just
such creatures as a poet would picture in the tropics—soft,
plump, and dreamy-eyed.

The natural complexion of both sexes is quite light; but the
males appear much darker, from their exposure to the sun.
A dark complexion, however, in a man, is highly esteemed, as
indicating strength of both body and soul. Hence there is a
saying, of great antiquity among them,



“If dark the cheek of the mother,
The son will sound the war-conch;
If strong her frame, he will give laws.”

With this idea of manliness, no wonder the Tahitians regard
all pale and tepid-looking Europeans, as weak and feminine;
whereas, a sailor, with a cheek like the breast of a roast turkey,
is held a lad of brawn: to use their own phrase, a “taata tona,”
or man of bones.

Speaking of bones, recalls an ugly custom of theirs, now

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obsolete—that of making fish-hooks and gimblets out of those of
their enemies. This beats the Scandinavians turning people's
skulls into cups and saucers.

But to return to the Calabooza Beretanee. Immense was
the interest we excited among the throngs that called there;
they would stand talking about us by the hour, growing most
unnecessarily excited too, and dancing up and down with all
the vivacity of their race. They invariably sided with us; flying
out against the consul, and denouncing him as “Ita maitai
nuee,” or very bad exceedingly. They must have borne him
some grudge or other.

Nor were the women, sweet souls, at all backward in visiting.
Indeed, they manifested even more interest than the men;
gazing at us with eyes full of a thousand meanings, and conversing
with marvelous rapidity. But, alas! inquisitive though
they were, and, doubtless, taking some passing compassion on
us, there was little real feeling in them after all, and still less
sentimental sympathy. Many of them laughed outright at us,
noting only what was ridiculous in our plight.

I think it was the second day of our confinement, that a
wild, beautiful girl burst into the Calabooza, and, throwing
herself into an arch attitude, stood afar off, and gazed at us.
She was a heartless one:—tickled to death with Black Dan's
nursing his chafed ankle, and indulging in certain moral reflections
on the consul and Captain Guy. After laughing her fill
at him, she condescended to notice the rest; glancing from one
to another, in the most methodical and provoking manner
imaginable. Whenever any thing struck her comically, you
saw it like a flash—her finger leveled instantaneously, and,
flinging herself back, she gave loose to strange, hollow little
notes of laughter, that sounded like the bass of a music-box,
playing a lively air with the lid down.

Now, I knew not, that there was any thing in my own

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appearance calculated to disarm ridicule; and, indeed, to have
looked at all heroic, under the circumstances, would have
been rather difficult. Still, I could not but feel exceedingly
annoyed at the prospect of being screamed at in turn, by this
mischievous young witch, even though she were but an
islander. And, to tell a secret, her beauty had something to
do with this sort of feeling; and, pinioned as I was, to a log,
and clad most unbecomingly, I began to grow sentimental.

Ere her glance fell upon me, I had, unconsciously, thrown
myself into the most graceful attitude I could assume, leaned
my head upon my hand, and summoned up as abstracted an
expression as possible. Though my face was averted, I soon
felt it flash, and knew that the glance was on me: deeper and
deeper grew the flush, and not a sound of laughter.

Delicious thought! she was moved at the sight of me. I
could stand it no longer, but started up. Lo! there she was;
her great hazel eyes rounding and rounding in her head, like
two stars, her whole frame in a merry quiver, and an expression
about the mouth that was sudden and violent death to any
thing like sentiment.

The next moment she spun round, and, bursting from peal
to peal of laughter, went racing out of the Calabooza; and, in
mercy to me, never returned.

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p274-175 CHAPTER XXXIV. LIFE AT THE CALABOOZA.

[figure description] Page 168.[end figure description]

A few days passed; and, at last, our docility was rewarded
by some indulgence on the part of Captain Bob.

He allowed the entire party to be at large during the day;
only enjoining upon us always to keep within hail. This, to
be sure, was in positive disobedience to Wilson's orders; and
so, care had to be taken that he should not hear of it. There
was little fear of the natives telling him; but strangers traveling
the Broom Road might. By way of precaution, boys were
stationed as scouts along the road. At sight of a white man,
they sounded the alarm; when we all made for our respective
holes (the stocks being purposely left open): the beam then
descended, and we were prisoners. As soon as the traveler
was out of sight, of course, we were liberated.

Notwithstanding the regular supply of food which we obtained
from Captain Bob and his friends, it was so small, that
we often felt most intolerably hungry. We could not blame
them for not bringing us more, for we soon became aware that
they had to pinch themselves, in order to give us what they
did; beside, they received nothing for their kindness but the
daily bucket of bread.

Among a people, like the Tahitians, what we call “hard
times,” can only be experienced in a scarcity of edibles; yet,
so destitute are many of the common people, that this most
distressing consequence of civilization may be said, with them,
to be ever present. To be sure, the natives about the

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[figure description] Page 169.[end figure description]

Calabooza, had abundance of limes and oranges; but what were
these good for, except to impart a still keener edge to appetites
which there was so little else to gratify? During the
height of the bread-fruit season, they fare better; but, at other
times, the demands of the shipping exhaust the uncultivated
resources of the island; and the lands being mostly owned by
the chiefs, the inferior orders have to suffer for their cupidity.
Deprived of their nets, many of them would starve.

As Captain Bob insensibly remitted his watchfulness, and
we began to stroll farther and farther from the Calabooza, we
managed, by a systematic foraging upon the country round
about, to make up for some of our deficiencies. And fortunate
it was, that the houses of the wealthier natives were just as
open to us as those of the most destitute; we were treated as
kindly in one as the other.

Once in a while, we came in at the death of a chief's pig;
the noise of whose slaughtering was generally to be heard at a
great distance. An occasion like this gathers the neighbors
together, and they have a bit of a feast, where a stranger
is always welcome. A good loud squeal, therefore, was
music in our ears. It showed something going on in that
direction.

Breaking in upon the party tumultuously, as we did, we
always created a sensation. Sometimes, we found the animal
still alive and struggling; in which case, it was generally
dropped at our approach. To provide for these emergencies,
Flash Jack generally repaired to the scene of operations with a
sheath knife between his teeth, and a club in his hand. Others
were exceedingly officious in singeing off the bristles, and disemboweling.
Doctor Long Ghost and myself, however, never
meddled with these preliminaries, but came to the feast itself,
with unimpaired energies.

Like all lank men, my long friend had an appetite of his

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own. Others occasionally went about seeking what they might
devour, but he was always on the alert.

He had an ingenious way of obviating an inconvenience
which we all experienced at times. The islanders seldom use
salt with their food; so he begged Rope Yarn to bring him
some from the ship; also a little pepper, if he could; which,
accordingly, was done. This he placed in a small leather
wallet—a “monkey bag” (so called by sailors)—usually worn
as a purse about the neck.

“In my poor opinion,” said Long Ghost, as he tucked the
wallet out of sight, “it behooves a stranger, in Tahiti, to have
his knife in readiness, and his caster slung.”

-- 171 --

p274-178 CHAPTER XXXV. VISIT FROM AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE.

[figure description] Page 171.[end figure description]

We had not been many days ashore, when Doctor Johnson
was espied coming along the Broom Road.

We had heard that he meditated a visit, and suspected what
he was after. Being upon the consul's hands, all our expenses
were of course payable by him in his official capacity; and,
therefore, as a friend of Wilson, and sure of good pay, the
shore doctor had some idea of allowing us to run up a bill with
him. True, it was rather awkward to ask us to take medicines,
which, on board the ship, he told us were not needed. However,
he resolved to put a bold face on the matter, and give us
a call.

His approach was announced by one of the scouts, upon
which some one suggested that we should let him enter, and
then put him in the stocks. But Long Ghost proposed better
sport. What it was, we shall presently see.

Very bland and amiable, Doctor Johnson advanced, and,
resting his cane on the stocks, glanced to right and left, as we
lay before him. “Well, my lads”—he began—“how do you
find yourselves to-day?”

Looking very demure, the men made some rejoinder; and he
went on.

“Those poor fellows I saw the other day—the sick, I mean—
how are they?” and he scrutinized the company. At last, he
singled out one who was assuming a most unearthly appearance,
and remarked, that he looked as if he were extremely ill.

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“Yes,” said the sailor dolefully, “I'm afeard, doctor, I'll soon
be losing the number of my mess!” (a sea phrase, for departing
this life) and he closed his eyes, and moaned.

What does he say?” said Johnson, turning round eagerly.

“Why,” exclaimed Flash Jack, who volunteered as interpreter,
“he means he's going to croak” (die).

Croak! and what does that mean, applied to a patient?”

“Oh! I understand,” said he, when the word was explained;
and he stepped over the stocks, and felt of the man's pulse.

“What's his name?” he asked, turning this time to old Navy
Bob.

“We calls him Jingling Joe,” replied that worthy.

“Well then, men, you must take good care of poor Joseph;
and I will send him a powder, which must be taken according
to the directions. Some of you know how to read, I presume?”

“That ere young cove does,” replied Bob, pointing toward
the place where I lay, as if he were directing attention to a
sail at sea.

After examining the rest—some of whom were really invalids,
but convalescent, and others only pretending to be laboring under
divers maladies, Johnson turned round, and addressed the party.

“Men,” said he, “if any more of you are ailing, speak up,
and let me know. By order of the consul, I'm to call every
day; so if any of you are at all sick, it's my duty to prescribe
for you. This sudden change from ship fare to shore living,
plays the deuse with you sailors, so be cautious about eating
fruit. Good-day! I'll send you the medicines the first thing
in the morning.”

Now, I am inclined to suspect that with all his want of understanding,
Johnson must have had some idea that we were
quizzing him. Still, that was nothing, so long as it answered
his purpose; and therefore, if he did see through us, he never
showed it.

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Sure enough, at the time appointed, along came a native lad
with a small basket of cocoa-nut stalks, filled with powders, pill-boxes,
and vials, each with names and directions written in a
large, round hand. The sailors, one and all, made a snatch at
the collection, under the strange impression that some of the
vials were seasoned with spirits. But, asserting his privilege
as physician, to the first reading of the labels, Doctor Long
Ghost was at last permitted to take possession of the basket.

The first thing lighted upon, was a large vial, labeled—“For
William—rub well in.”

This vial certainly had a spirituous smell; and upon handing
it to the patient, he made a summary internal application of its
contents. The doctor looked aghast.

There was now a mighty commotion. Powders and pills
were voted mere drugs in the market, and the holders of vials
were pronounced lucky dogs. Johnson must have known
enough of sailors to make some of his medicines palatable—
this, at least, Long Ghost suspected. Certain it was, every one
took to the vials; if at all spicy, directions were unheeded,
their contents all going one road.

The largest one of all, quite a bottle indeed, and having a
sort of burnt brandy odor, was labeled—“For Daniel, drink
freely, and until relieved.” This, Black Dan proceeded to do;
and would have made an end of it at once, had not the bottle,
after a hard struggle, been snatched from his hands, and passed
round, like a jovial decanter. The old tar had complained of the
effects of an immoderate eating of fruit.

Upon calling the following morning, our physician found his
precious row of patients reclining behind the stocks, and doing
“as well as could be expected.”

But the pills and powders were found to have been perfectly
inactive: probably because none had been taken. To make
them efficacious, it was suggested that, for the future, a bottle

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of Pisco should be sent along with them. According to Flash
Jack's notions, unmitigated medical compounds were but dry
stuff at the best, and needed something good to wash them down.

Thus far, our own M.D., Doctor Long Ghost, after starting
the frolic, had taken no further part in it; but on the physician's
third visit, he took him to one side, and had a private confabulation.
What it was, exactly, we could not tell; but from certain
illustrative signs and gestures, I fancied that he was describing
the symptoms of some mysterious disorganization of
the vitals, which must have come on within the hour. Assisted
by his familiarity with medical terms, he seemed to produce
a marked impression. At last, Johnson went his way, promising
aloud that he would send Long Ghost what he desired.

When the medicine boy came along the following morning,
the doctor was the first to accost him, walking off with a small
purple vial. This time, there was little else in the basket but a
case bottle of the burnt brandy cordial, which, after much
debate, was finally disposed of by some one pouring the contents,
little by little, into the half of a cocoa-nut shell, and so
giving all who desired, a glass. No further medicinal cheer
remaining, the men dispersed.

An hour or two passed, when Flash Jack directed attention
to my long friend, who, since the medicine boy left, had not
been noticed till now. With eyes closed, he was lying behind
the stocks, and Jack was lifting his arm and letting it fall as if
life were extinct. On running up with the rest, I at once connected
the phenomenon with the mysterious vial. Searching
his pocket, I found it, and holding it up, it proved to be laudanum.
Flash Jack, snatching it from my hand in a rapture,
quickly informed all present, what it was; and with much glee,
proposed a nap for the company. Some of them not comprehending
him exactly, the apparently defunct Long Ghost—who
lay so still that I a little suspected the genuineness of his sleep—

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[figure description] Page 175.[end figure description]

was rolled about as an illustration of the virtues of the vial's
contents. The idea tickled every body mightily; and throwing
themselves down, the magic draught was passed from hand to
hand. Thinking that, as a matter of course, they must at once
become insensible, each man, upon taking his sip, fell back,
and closed his eyes.

There was little fear of the result, since the narcotic was
equally distributed. But, curious to see how it would operate,
I raised myself gently after a while, and looked around. It
was about noon, and perfectly still; and as we all daily took
the siesta, I was not much surprised to find every one quiet.
Still, in one or two instances, I thought I detected a little
peeping.

Presently, I heard a footstep, and saw Doctor Johnson approaching.

And perplexed enough did he look at the sight of his prostrate
file of patients, plunged apparently, in such unaccountable
slumbers.

“Daniel,” he cried, at last, punching in the side with his
cane, the individual thus designated—“Daniel, my good fellow,
get up! do you hear?”

But Black Dan was immovable; and he poked the next
sleeper.

“Joseph, Joseph! come, wake up! it's me, Doctor Johnson.”

But Jingling Joe, with mouth open, and eyes shut, was not
to be started.

“Bless my soul!” he exclaimed, with uplifted hands and
cane, “what's got into 'em? I say, men”—he shouted, running
up and down—“come to life, men! what under the sun's the
matter with you?” and he struck the stocks, and bawled with
increased vigor.

At last he paused, folded his hands over the head of his cane,

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and steadfastly gazed upon us. The notes of the nasal orches
tra were rising and falling upon his ear, and a new idea suggested
itself.

“Yes, yes; the rascals must have been getting boozy. Well,
it's none of my business—I'll be off;” and off he went.

No sooner was he out of sight, than nearly all started to
their feet, and a hearty laugh ensued.

Like myself, most of them had been watching the event from
under a sly eyelid. By this time, too, Doctor Long Ghost was
as wide awake as any body. What were his reasons for taking
laudanum,—if, indeed, he took any whatever,—is best known to
himself; and, as it is neither mine nor the reader's business,
we will say no more about it.

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p274-184 CHAPTER XXXVI. WE ARE CARRIED BEFORE THE CONSUL AND CAPTAIN.

[figure description] Page 177.[end figure description]

We had been inmates of the Calabooza Beretanee about
two weeks, when, one morning, Captain Bob, coming from the
bath, in a state of utter nudity, brought into the building an
armful of old tappa, and began to dress to go out.

The operation was quite simple. The tappa—of the coarsest
kind—was in one long, heavy piece; and, fastening one end to
a column of Habiscus wood, supporting the Calabooza, he went
off a few paces, and putting the other about his waist, wound
himself right up to the post. This unique costume, in rotundity
something like a farthingale, added immensely to his large
bulk; so much so, that he fairly waddled in his gait. But he
was only adhering to the fashion of his fathers; for, in the olden
time, the “Kihee,” or big girdle, was quite the mode for both
sexes. Bob, despising recent innovations, still clung to it. He
was a gentleman of the old school—one of the last of the Kihees.

He now told us, that he had orders to take us before the
consul. Nothing loth, we formed in procession; and, with
the old man at our head, sighing and laboring like an engine,
and flanked by a guard of some twenty natives, we started for
the village.

Arrived at the consular office, we found Wilson there, and
four or five Europeans, seated in a row facing us; probably
with the view of presenting as judicial an appearance as possible.

On one side was a couch, where Captain Guy reclined. He

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[figure description] Page 178.[end figure description]

looked convalescent; and, as we found out, intended soon to
go aboard his ship. He said nothing, but left every thing to
the consul.

The latter now rose, and, drawing forth a paper from a large
roll, tied with red tape, commenced reading aloud.

It purported to be, “The affidavit of John Jermin, first
officer of the British Colonial Barque Julia; Guy, Master;” and
proved to be a long statement of matters, from the time of
leaving Sydney, down to our arrival in the harbor. Though
artfully drawn up, so as to bear hard against every one of us,
it was pretty correct in the details; excepting, that it was
wholly silent as to the manifold derelictions of the mate himself—
a fact which imparted unusual significance to the concluding
sentence, “And furthermore, this deponent sayeth
not.”

No comments were made, although we all looked round for
the mate, to see whether it was possible that he could have
authorized this use of his name. But he was not present.

The next document produced, was the deposition of the
captain himself. As on all other occasions, however, he had
very little to say for himself, and it was soon set aside.

The third affidavit, was that of the seamen remaining aboard
the vessel, including the traitor Bungs, who, it seemed, had
turned ship's evidence. It was an atrocious piece of exaggeration,
from beginning to end; and those who signed it could
not have known what they were about. Certainly Wymontoo
did not, though his mark was there. In vain the consul commanded
silence during the reading of this paper; comments
were shouted out upon every paragraph.

The affidavits read, Wilson, who, all the while, looked as
stiff as a poker, solemnly drew forth the ship's articles from
their tin case. This document was a discolored, musty, bilious-looking
affair, and hard to read. When finished, the consul

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held it up; and, pointing to the marks of the ship's company,
at the bottom, asked us, one by one, whether we acknowledged
the same for our own.

“What's the use of asking that?” said Black Dan; “Captain
Guy there, knows as well as we they are.”

“Silence, sir!” said Wilson, who, intending to produce a
suitable impression by this ridiculous parade, was not a little
mortified by the old sailor's bluntness.

A pause of a few moments now ensued; during which the
bench of judges communed with Captain Guy, in a low tone,
and the sailors canvassed the motives of the consul in having
the affidavits taken.

The general idea seemed to be, that it was done with a
view of “bouncing,” or frightening us into submission. Such
proved to be the case; for Wilson, rising to his feet again,
addressed us as follows:—

“You see, men, that every preparation has been made to
send you to Sydney for trial. The Rosa (a small Australian
schooner, lying in the harbor) will sail for that place in the
course of ten days, at farthest. The Julia sails on a cruise this
day week. Do you still refuse duty?”

We did.

Hereupon the consul and captain exchanged glances; and
the latter looked bitterly disappointed.

Presently I noticed Guy's eye upon me; and, for the first
time, he spoke, and told me to come near. I stepped forward.

“Was it not you that was taken off the island?”

“It was.”

“It is you then who owe your life to my humanity. Yet this
is the gratitude of a sailor, Mr. Wilson!”

“Not so, sir.” And I at once gave him to understand, that
I was perfectly acquainted with his motives in sending a boat

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into the bay; his crew was reduced, and he merely wished to
procure the sailor whom he expected to find there. The ship
was the means of my deliverance, and no thanks to the benevolence
of its captain.

Doctor Long Ghost also, had a word to say. In two masterly
sentences he summed up Captain Guy's character, to the
complete satisfaction of every seaman present.

Matters were now growing serious; especially as the sailors
became riotous, and talked about taking the consul and the
captain back to the Calabooza with them.

The other judges fidgeted, and loudly commanded silence.
It was at length restored; when Wilson, for the last time
addressing us, said something more about the Rosa and Sydney,
and concluded by reminding us, that a week would elapse
ere the Julia sailed.

Leaving these hints to operate for themselves, he dismissed
the party, ordering Captain Bob and his friends to escort us
back whence we came.

-- 181 --

p274-188 CHAPTER XXXVII. THE FRENCH PRIESTS PAY THEIR RESPECTS.

[figure description] Page 181.[end figure description]

A day or two after the events just related, we were lounging
in the Calabooza Beretanee, when we were honored by a visit
from three of the French priests; and as about the only notice
ever taken of us by the English missionaries, was their leaving
their cards for us in the shape of a package of tracts, we could
not help thinking, that the Frenchmen, in making a personal
call, were at least much better bred.

By this time they had settled themselves down quite near
our habitation. A pleasant little stroll down the Broom Road,
and a rustic cross peeped through the trees; and soon you
came to as charming a place as one would wish to see: a soft
knoll, planted with old bread-fruit trees; in front, a savannah,
sloping to a grove of palms, and, between these, glimpses of
blue, sunny waves.

On the summit of the knoll, was a rude chapel, of bamboos;
quite small, and surmounted by the cross. Between the canes,
at nightfall, the natives stole peeps at a small portable altar; a
crucifix to correspond, and gilded candlesticks and censers.
Their curiosity carried them no further; nothing could induce
them to worship there. Such queer ideas as they entertained,
of the hated strangers! Masses and chants were nothing more
than evil spells. As for the priests themselves, they were no
better than diabolical sorcerers; like those who, in old times,
terrified their fathers.

Close by the chapel, was a range of native houses; rented

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from a chief, and handsomely furnished. Here lived the
priests; and, very comfortably, too. They looked sanctimonious
enough abroad; but that went for nothing: since, at
home, in their retreat, they were a club of Friar Tucks; holding
priestly wassail over many a good cup of red brandy, and
rising late in the morning.

Pity it was, they couldn't marry—pity for the ladies of the
island, I mean, and the cause of morality; for what business
had the ecclesiastical old bachelors, with such a set of trim
little native handmaidens? These damsels were their first
converts; and devoted ones they were.

The priests, as I said before, were accounted necromancers:
the appearance of two of our three visitors might have justified
the conceit.

They were little, dried-up Frenchmen, in long, straight
gowns of black cloth, and unsightly three-cornered hats—so
preposterously big, that, in putting them on, the reverend
fathers seemed extinguishing themselves.

Their companion was dressed differently. He wore a sort
of yellow, flannel morning-gown, and a broad-brimmed Manilla
hat. Large and portly, he was also hale and fifty; with a
complexion like an autumnal leaf—handsome blue eyes—fine
teeth, and a racy Milesian brogue. In short, he was an Irishman;
Father Murphy, by name; and, as such, pretty well
known, and very thoroughly disliked, throughout all the Protestant
missionary settlements in Polynesia. In early youth,
he had been sent to a religious seminary in France; and, taking
orders there, had, but once or twice afterward, revisited his
native land.

Father Murphy marched up to us briskly; and the first words
he uttered were, to ask whether there were any of his countrymen
among us. There were two of them; one, a lad of sixteen—
a bright, curly-headed rascal—and, being a young

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[figure description] Page 183.[end figure description]

Irishman, of course, his name was Pat. The other, was an ugly,
and rather melancholy-looking scamp; one M'Gee, whose
prospects in life had been blasted by a premature transportation
to Sydney. This was the report, at least, though it might
have been scandal.

In most of my shipmates, were some redeeming qualities;
but about M'Gee, there was nothing of the kind; and forced
to consort with him, I could not help regretting, a thousand
times, that the gallows had been so tardy. As if impelled,
against her will, to send him into the world, Nature had done
all she could to insure his being taken for what he was. About
the eyes, there was no mistaking him; with a villainous cast in
one, they seemed suspicious of each other.

Glancing away from him at once, the bluff priest rested his
gaze on the good-humored face of Pat, who, with a pleasant
roguishness, was “twigging” the enormous hats (or “Hytee
Belteezers,” as land beavers are called by sailors), from under
which, like a couple of snails, peeped the two little Frenchmen.

Pat and the priest were both from the same town in Meath;
and, when this was found out, there was no end to the questions
of the latter. To him, Pat seemed a letter from home,
and said a hundred times as much.

After a long talk between these two, and a little broken English
from the Frenchmen, our visitors took leave; but Father
Murphy had hardly gone a dozen rods, when back he came,
inquiring whether we were in want of any thing.

“Yes,” cried one, “something to eat.” Upon this, he
promised to send us some fresh wheat bread, of his own
baking; a great luxury in Tahiti.

We all felicitated Pat upon picking up such a friend, and
told him his fortune was made.

The next morning, a French servant of the priest's made his

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appearance, with a small bundle of clothing for our young
Hibernian; and the promised bread for the party. Pat, being
out at the knees and elbows, and, like the rest of us, not full
inside, the present was acceptable all round.

In the afternoon, Father Murphy himself came along; and,
in addition to his previous gifts, gave Pat a good deal of
advice: said he was sorry to see him in limbo, and that he
would have a talk with the consul about having him set free.

We saw nothing more of him for two or three days; at the
end of which time he paid us another call, telling Pat, that
Wilson was inexorable, having refused to set him at liberty,
unless to go aboard the ship. This, the priest now besought
him to do forthwith; and so escape the punishment which, it
seems, Wilson had been hinting at to his intercessor. Pat,
however, was stanch against entreaties; and, with all the ardor
of a sophomorean sailor, protested his intention to hold out to
the last. With none of the meekness of a good little boy
about him, the blunt youngster stormed away at such a rate,
that it was hard to pacify him; and the priest said no more.

How it came to pass—whether from Murphy's speaking to
the consul, or otherwise, we could not tell—but the next day,
Pat was sent for by Wilson, and being escorted to the village
by our good old keeper, three days elapsed before he returned.

Bent upon reclaiming him, they had taken him on board the
ship; feasted him in the cabin; and, finding that of no avail,
down they thrust him into the hold, in double irons, and on
bread and water. All would not do; and so he was sent back
to the Calabooza. Boy that he was, they must have counted
upon his being more susceptible to discipline than the rest.

The interest felt in Pat's welfare, by his benevolent countryman,
was very serviceable to the rest of us; especially as we
all turned Catholics, and went to mass every morning, much to
Captain Bob's consternation. Upon finding it out, he

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[figure description] Page 185.[end figure description]

threatened to keep us in the stocks, if we did not desist. He went
no farther than this, though; and so, every few days, we strolled
down to the priest's residence, and had a mouthful to eat, and
something generous to drink. In particular, Dr. Long Ghost
and myself became huge favorites with Pat's friend; and many
a time he regaled us from a quaint-looking traveling-case for
spirits, stowed away in one corner of his dwelling. It held
four square flasks, which, somehow or other, always contained
just enough to need emptying. In truth, the fine old Irishman
was a rosy fellow in canonicals. His countenance and his soul
were always in a glow. It may be ungenerous to reveal his
failings, but he often talked thick, and sometimes was perceptibly
eccentric in his gait.

I never drink French brandy, but I pledge Father Murphy.
His health again! And many jolly proselytes may he make in
Polynesia!

-- 186 --

p274-193 CHAPTER XXXVIII. LITTLE JULE SAILS WITHOUT US.

[figure description] Page 186.[end figure description]

To make good the hint thrown out by the consul upon the
conclusion of the Farce of the Affidavits, we were again brought
before him within the time specified.

It was the same thing over again: he got nothing out of us,
and we were remanded; our resolute behavior annoying him
prodigiously.

What we observed, led us to form the idea, that on first learning
the state of affairs on board the Julia, Wilson must have addressed
his invalid friend, the captain, something in the following
style:

“Guy, my poor fellow, don't worry yourself now about those
rascally sailors of yours. I'll dress them out for you—just
leave it all to me, and set your mind at rest.”

But handcuffs and stocks, big looks, threats, dark hints, and
depositions, had all gone for naught.

Conscious that, as matters now stood, nothing serious could
grow out of what had happened; and never dreaming that our
being sent home for trial, had ever been really thought of, we
thoroughly understood Wilson, and laughed at him accordingly.

Since leaving the Julia, we had caught no glimpse of the
mate; but we often heard of him.

It seemed that he remained on board, keeping house in the
cabin for himself and Viner; who, going to see him according
to promise, was induced to remain a guest. These two cronies
now had fine times; tapping the captain's quarter-casks, playing

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[figure description] Page 187.[end figure description]

cards on the transom, and giving balls of an evening to the
ladies ashore. In short, they cut up so many queer capers,
that the missionaries complained of them to the consul; and
Jermin received a sharp reprimand.

This so affected him, that he drank still more freely than
before; and one afternoon, when mellow as a grape, he took
umbrage at a canoe full of natives, who, on being hailed from
the deck to come aboard and show their papers, got frightened,
and paddled for the shore. Lowering a boat instantly, he
equipped Wymontoo and the Dane with a cutlass apiece, and
seizing another himself, off they started in pursuit, the ship's
ensign flying in the boat's stern. The alarmed islanders,
beaching their canoe, with loud cries fled through the village,
the mate after them, slashing his naked weapon to right and
left. A crowd soon collected; and the “Karhowree toonee,”
or crazy stranger, was quickly taken before Wilson.

Now, it so chanced, that in a native house hard by, the consul
and Captain Guy were having a quiet game at cribbage by
themselves, a decanter on the table standing sentry. The obstreperous
Jermin was brought in; and finding the two thus
pleasantly occupied, it had a soothing effect upon him; and he
insisted upon taking a hand at the cards, and a drink of the
brandy. As the consul was nearly as tipsy as himself, and the
captain dared not object for fear of giving offense, at it they
went,—all three of them—and made a night of it; the mate's
delinquencies being summarily passed over, and his captors
sent away.

An incident worth relating grew out of this freak.

There wandered about Papeetee, at this time, a shriveled
little fright of an Englishwoman, known among sailors as “Old
Mother Tot.” From New Zealand to the Sandwich Islands,
she had been all over the South Seas; keeping a rude hut of
entertainment for mariners, and supplying them with rum and

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[figure description] Page 188.[end figure description]

dice. Upon the missionary islands, of course, such conduct
was severely punishable; and at various places, Mother Tot's
establishment had been shut up, and its proprietor made to quit
in the first vessel that could be hired to land her elsewhere.
But, with a perseverance invincible, wherever she went, she
always started afresh; and so became notorious everywhere.

By some wicked spell of hers, a patient, one-eyed little cobbler
followed her about, mending shoes for white men, doing
the old woman's cooking, and bearing all her abuse without
grumbling. Strange to relate, a battered Bible was seldom out
of his sight; and whenever he had leisure, and his mistress' back
was turned, he was forever poring over it. This pious propensity
used to enrage the old crone past belief; and oftentimes
she boxed his ears with the book, and tried to burn it. Mother
Tot and her man Josy were, indeed, a curious pair.

But to my story.

A week or so after our arrival in the harbor, the old lady
had once again been hunted down, and forced for the time to
abandon her nefarious calling. This was brought about chiefly
by Wilson, who, for some reason unknown, had contracted the
most violent hatred for her; which, on her part, was more than
reciprocated.

Well: passing, in the evening, where the consul and his party
were making merry, she peeped through the bamboos of the
house; and straightway resolved to gratify her spite.

The night was very dark; and providing herself with a huge
ship's lantern, which usually swung in her hut, she waited till
they came forth. This happened about midnight; Wilson making
his appearance, supported by two natives, holding him up by
the arms. These three went first; and just as they got under a
deep shade, a bright light was thrust within an inch of Wilson's
nose. The old hag was kneeling before him, holding the
lantern with uplifted hands.

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[figure description] Page 189.[end figure description]

“Ha, ha! my fine counselor,” she shrieked; “ye persecute
a lone old body like me for selling rum—do ye? And here ye
are, carried home drunk—Hoot! ye villain, I scorn ye!” And
she spat upon him.

Terrified at the apparition, the poor natives—arrant believers
in ghosts—dropped the trembling consul, and fled in all directions.
After giving full vent to her rage, Mother Tot hobbled
away, and left the three revelers to stagger home the best way
they could.

The day following our last interview with Wilson, we learned
that Captain Guy had gone on board his vessel, for the purpose
of shipping a new crew. There was a round bounty offered;
and a heavy bag of Spanish dollars, with the Julia's articles
ready for signing, were laid on the capstan-head.

Now, there was no lack of idle sailors ashore, mostly “Beach-combers,”
who had formed themselves into an organized gang,
headed by one Mack, a Scotchman, whom they styled the Commodore.
By the laws of the fraternity, no member was allowed
to ship on board a vessel, unless granted permission by the rest.
In this way the gang controlled the port, all discharged seamen
being forced to join them.

To Mack and his men our story was well known; indeed,
they had several times called to see us; and of course, as sailors
and congenial spirits, they were hard against Captain Guy.

Deeming the matter important, they came in a body to the
Calabooza, and wished to know, whether, all things considered,
we thought it best for any of them to join the Julia.

Anxious to pack the ship off as soon as possible, we answered,
by all means. Some went so far as to laud the Julia to the
skies, as the best and fastest of ships. Jermin too, as a good
fellow, and a sailor every inch, came in for his share of praise;
and as for the captain—quiet man, he would never trouble any
one. In short, every inducement we could think of was

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[figure description] Page 190.[end figure description]

presented; and Flash Jack ended by assuring the beachcombers
solemnly, that now we were all well and hearty, nothing but a
regard to principle, prevented us from returning on board ourselves.

The result was, that a new crew was finally obtained, together
with a steady New Englander for second mate, and three good
whalemen for harponeers. In part, what was wanting for the
ship's larder was also supplied; and as far as could be done in
a place like Tahiti, the damages the vessel had sustained
were repaired. As for the Mowree, the authorities refusing
to let him be put ashore, he was carried to sea in irons,
down in the hold. What eventually became of him, we never
heard.

Ropey, poor, poor Ropey, who a few days previous had fallen
sick, was left ashore at the sailor hospital at Townor, a small
place upon the beach between Papeetee and Matavai. Here,
some time after, he breathed his last. No one knew his complaint:
he must have died of hard times. Several of us saw
him interred in the sand, and I planted a rude post to mark his
resting-place.

The cooper, and the rest who had remained aboard from the
first, of course, composed part of the Julia's new crew.

To account for the conduct, all along, of the consul and captain,
in trying so hard to alter our purpose with respect to the
ship, the following statement is all that is requisite. Beside an
advance of from fifteen to twenty-five dollars demanded by
every sailor shipping at Tahiti, an additional sum for each man
so shipped, has to be paid into the hands of the government, as
a charge of the port. Beside this, the men—with here and
there an exception—will only ship for one cruise, thus becoming
entitled to a discharge before the vessel reaches home;
which, in time, creates the necessity of obtaining other men, at a
similar cost. Now, the Julia's exchequer was at low-water

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[figure description] Page 191.[end figure description]

mark, or rather, it was quite empty; and to meet these expenses,
a good part of what little oil there was aboard, had to
be sold for a song to a merchant of Papeetee.

It was Sunday in Tahiti, and a glorious morning, when Captain
Bob, waddling into the Calabooza, startled us by announcing
“Ah—my boy—shippy you, harree—maky sail!” In other
words, the Julia was off.

The beach was quite near, and in this quarter altogether uninhabited;
so down we ran, and, at a cable's length, saw little
Jule gliding past—top-gallant-sails hoisting, and a boy aloft
with one leg thrown over the yard, loosing the fore-royal. The
decks were all life and commotion; the sailors on the forecastle
singing “Ho, cheerly men!” as they catted the anchor; and the
gallant Jermin, bareheaded as his wont, standing up on the bowsprit,
and issuing his orders. By the man at the helm, stood
Captain Guy, very quiet and gentlemanly, and smoking a cigar.
Soon the ship drew near the reef, and altering her course, glided
out through the break, and went on her way.

Thus disappeared little Jule, about three weeks after entering
the harbor; and nothing more have I ever heard of her.

-- 192 --

p274-199 CHAPTER XXXIX. JERMIN SERVES US A GOOD TURN. —FRIENDSHIPS IN POLYNESIA.

[figure description] Page 192.[end figure description]

The ship out of the way, we were quite anxious to know
what was going to be done with us. On this head, Captain
Bob could tell us nothing; no further at least, than that he still
considered himself responsible for our safe-keeping. However,
he never put us to bed any more; and we had every thing our
own way.

The day after the Julia left, the old man came up to us in
great tribulation, saying that the bucket of bread was no longer
forthcoming, and that Wilson had refused to send any thing in
its place. One and all, we took this for a hint to disperse
quietly, and go about our business. Nevertheless, we were not
to be shaken off so easily; and taking a malicious pleasure in
annoying our old enemy, we resolved, for the present, to stay
where we were. For the part he had been acting, we learned
that the consul was the laughing-stock of all the foreigners
ashore, who frequently twitted him upon his hopeful protegées
of the Calabooza Beretanee.

As we were wholly without resources, so long as we remained
on the island no better place than Captain Bob's could
be selected for an abiding-place. Beside, we heartily loved the
old gentleman, and could not think of leaving him; so, telling
him to give no thought as to wherewithal we should be clothed
and fed, we resolved, by extending and systematizing our foraging
operations, to provide for ourselves.

We were greatly assisted by a parting legacy of Jermin's.

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[figure description] Page 193.[end figure description]

To him we were indebted for having all our chests sent ashore,
and every thing left therein. They were placed in the custody
of a petty chief living near by, who was instructed by the consul
not to allow them to be taken away; but we might call and
make our toilets whenever we pleased.

We went to see Mahinee, the old chief; Captain Bob going
along, and stoutly insisting upon having the chattels delivered
up. At last this was done; and in solemn procession the chests
were borne by the natives to the Calabooza. Here, we disposed
them about quite tastefully; and made such a figure, that
in the eyes of old Bob and his friends, the Calabooza Beretanee
was by far the most sumptuously furnished saloon in Tahiti.

Indeed, so long as it remained thus furnished, the native
courts of the district were held there; the judge, Mahinee, and
his associates, sitting upon one of the chests, and the culprits
and spectators thrown at full length upon the ground, both inside
of the building, and under the shade of the trees without; while,
leaning over the stocks as from a gallery, the worshipful crew
of the Julia looked on, and canvassed the proceedings.

I should have mentioned before, that previous to the vessel's
departure, the men had bartered away all the clothing they
could possibly spare; but now, it was resolved to be more
provident.

The contents of the chests were of the most miscellaneous
description:—sewing utensils, marling-spikes, strips of calico,
bits of rope, jackknives; nearly every thing, in short, that a sea-man
could think of. But of wearing apparel, there was little
but old frocks, remnants of jackets, and legs of trowsers, with
now and then the foot of a stocking. These, however, were
far from being valueless; for, among the poorer Tahitians, every
thing European is highly esteemed. They come from “Beretanee,
Fenooa Pararee” (Britain, Land of Wonders), and that
is enough.

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[figure description] Page 194.[end figure description]

The chests themselves were deemed exceedingly precious,
especially those with unfractured locks, which would absolutely
click, and enable the owner to walk off with the key. Scars,
however, and bruises, were considered great blemishes. One
old fellow, smitten with the doctor's large mahogany chest (a
well filled one, by the by), and finding infinite satisfaction in
merely sitting thereon, was detected in the act of applying
a healing ointment to a shocking scratch which impaired the
beauty of the lid.

There is no telling the love of a Tahitian for a sailor's trunk.
So ornamental is it held as an article of furniture in his hut, that
the women are incessantly tormenting their husbands to bestir
themselves, and make them a present of one. When obtained,
no pier-table just placed in a drawing-room, is regarded with
half the delight. For these reasons, then, our coming into possession
of our estate at this time, was an important event.

The islanders are much like the rest of the world; and the
news of our good fortune brought us troops of “tayos” or
friends, eager to form an alliance after the national custom, and
do our slightest bidding.

The really curious way in which all the Polynesians are in
the habit of making bosom friends at the shortest possible notice,
is deserving of remark. Although, among a people like
the Tahitians, vitiated as they are by sophisticating influences,
this custom has in most cases degenerated into a mere mercenary
relation, it nevertheless had its origin in a fine, and in
some instances, heroic sentiment, formerly entertained by their
fathers.

In the annals of the island are examples of extravagant friendships,
unsurpassed by the story of Damon and Pythias: in truth,
much more wonderful; for, notwithstanding the devotion—even
of life in some cases—to which they led, they were frequently
entertained at first sight for some stranger from another island.

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[figure description] Page 195.[end figure description]

Filled with love and admiration for the first whites who came
among them, the Polynesians could not testify the warmth of
their emotions more strongly, than by instantaneously making
their abrupt proffer of friendship. Hence, in old voyages we
read of chiefs coming off from the shore in their canoes, and
going through with strange antics, expressive of this desire. In
the same way, their inferiors accosted the seamen; and thus the
practice has continued in some islands down to the present day.

There is a small place, not many days' sail from Tahiti, and
seldom visited by shipping, where the vessel touched to which
I then happened to belong.

Of course, among the simple-hearted natives, we had a friend
all round. Mine was Poky, a handsome youth, who never could
do enough for me. Every morning at sunrise, his canoe came
alongside loaded with fruits of all kinds; upon being emptied,
it was secured by a line to the bowsprit, under which it lay
all day long, ready at any time to carry its owner ashore on an
errand.

Seeing him so indefatigable, I told Poky one day, that I was a
virtuoso in shells and curiosities of all kinds. That was enough;
away he paddled for the head of the bay, and I never saw him
again for twenty-four hours. The next morning, his canoe
came gliding slowly along the shore, with the full-leaved bough
of a tree for a sail. For the purpose of keeping the things dry,
he had also built a sort of platform just behind the prow, railed
in with green wicker-work; and here was a heap of yellow
bananas and cowree shells; young cocoa-nuts and antlers of red
coral; two or three pieces of carved wood; a little pocket-idol,
black as jet, and rolls of printed tappa.

We were given a holyday; and upon going ashore, Poky, of
course, was my companion and guide. For this, no mortal
could be better qualified; his native country was not large, and
he knew every inch of it. Gallanting me about, every one was

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[figure description] Page 196.[end figure description]

stopped and ceremoniously introduced to Poky's “tayo karhowree
nuee” or his particular white friend.

He showed me all the lions; but more than all, he took me
to see a charming lioness—a young damsel—the daughter of a
chief—the reputation of whose charms had spread to the neighboring
islands, and even brought suitors therefrom. Among
these was Tooboi, the heir of Tamatoy, King of Raiatair, one
of the Society Isles. The girl was certainly fair to look upon.
Many heavens were in her sunny eyes; and the outline of that
arm of hers, peeping forth from a capricious tappa robe, was the
very curve of beauty.

Though there was no end to Poky's attentions, not a syllable
did he ever breathe of reward; but sometimes he looked
very knowing. At last the day came for sailing, and with it,
also, his canoe, loaded down to the gunwale with a sea stock
of fruits. Giving him all I could spare from my chest, I went
on deck to take my place at the windlass; for the anchor was
weighing. Poky followed, and heaved with me at the same
handspike.

The anchor was soon up; and away we went out of the bay
with more than twenty shallops towing astern. At last they left
us; but long as I could see him at all, there was Poky, standing
alone and motionless in the bow of his canoe.

END OF PART I.

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p274-204 PART II.

[figure description] Page 197.[end figure description]

CHAPTER XL. WE TAKE UNTO OURSELVES FRIENDS.

The arrival of the chests made my friend, the doctor, by far
the wealthiest man of the party. So much the better for me,
seeing that I had little or nothing myself; though from our
intimacy, the natives courted my favor almost as much as his.

Among others, Kooloo was a candidate for my friendship;
and being a comely youth, quite a buck in his way, I accepted
his overtures. By this, I escaped the importunities of the rest;
for be it known, that, though little inclined to jealousy in love
matters, the Tahitian will hear of no rivals in his friendship.

Kooloo, running over his qualifications as a friend, first of all
informed me, that he was a “Mickonaree,” thus declaring his
communion with the church.

The way this “tayo” of mine expressed his regard, was by
assuring me over and over again, that the love he bore me
was “nuee, nuee, nuee,” or infinitesimally extensive. All over
these seas, the word “nuee” is significant of quantity. Its repetition
is like placing ciphers at the right hand of a numeral;
the more places you carry it out to, the greater the sum. Judge,
then, of Kooloo's esteem. Nor is the allusion to the ciphers
at all inappropriate, seeing that, in themselves, Kooloo's

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professions turned out to be worthless. He was, alas! as sounding
brass and a tinkling cymbal; one of those who make no
music unless the clapper be silver.

In the course of a few days, the sailors, like the doctor and
myself, were cajoled out of every thing, and our “tayos,” all
round, began to cool off quite sensibly. So remiss did they
become in their attentions, that we could no longer rely upon
their bringing us the daily supply of food, which all of them
had faithfully promised.

As for Kooloo, after sponging me well, he one morning
played the part of a retrograde lover; informing me, that his
affections had undergone a change; he had fallen in love at
first sight with a smart sailor, who had just stepped ashore
quite flush from a lucky whaling-cruise.

It was a touching interview, and with it, our connection dissolved.
But the sadness which ensued would soon have been
dissipated, had not my sensibilities been wounded by his indelicately
sporting some of my gifts very soon after this transfer of
his affections. Hardly a day passed, that I did not meet him
on the Broom Road, airing himself in a Regatta shirt, which I
had given him in happier hours.

He went by with such an easy saunter too, looking me
pleasantly in the eye, and merely exchanging the cold salute of
the road:—“Yar onor, boyoee,” a mere side-walk how d'ye
do. After several experiences like this, I began to entertain a
sort of respect for Kooloo, as quite a man of the world. In
good sooth, he turned out to be one; in one week's time giving
me the cut direct, and lounging by without even nodding. He
must have taken me for part of the landscape.

Before the chests were quite empty, we had a grand washing
in the stream of our best raiment, for the purpose of looking
tidy, and visiting the European chapel in the village. Every
Sunday morning it is open for divine service, some member of

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the mission officiating. This was the first time we ever entered
Papeetee unattended by an escort.

In the chapel there were about forty people present, including
the officers of several ships in harbor. It was an energetic
discourse, and the pulpit cushion was well pounded. Occupying
a high seat in the synagogue, and stiff as a flag-staff, was
our beloved guardian, Wilson. I shall never forget his look of
wonder when his interesting wards filed in at the doorway, and
took up a seat directly facing him.

Service over, we waited outside in hopes of seeing more of
him; but sorely annoyed at the sight of us, he reconnoitered
from the window, and never came forth until we had started
for home.

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p274-207 CHAPTER XLI. WE LEVY CONTRIBUTIONS ON THE SHIPPING.

[figure description] Page 200.[end figure description]

Scarcely a week went by after the Julia's sailing, when,
with the proverbial restlessness of sailors, some of the men
began to grow weary of the Calabooza Beretanee, and resolved
to go boldly among the vessels in the bay, and offer to ship.

The thing was tried; but though strongly recommended by
the commodore of the beachcombers, in the end they were
invariably told by the captains to whom they applied, that they
bore an equivocal character ashore, and would not answer.
So often were they repulsed, that we pretty nearly gave up all
thoughts of leaving the island in this way; and growing domestic
again, settled down quietly at Captain Bob's.

It was about this time, that the whaling-ships, which have
their regular seasons for cruising, began to arrive at Papeetee;
and of course their crews frequently visited us. This is customary
all over the Pacific. No sailor steps ashore, but he
straightway goes to the “Calabooza,” where he is almost sure
to find some poor fellow or other in confinement for desertion,
or alledged mutiny, or something of that sort. Sympathy is
proffered, and if need be, tobacco. The latter, however, is
most in request; as a solace to the captive, it is invaluable.

Having fairly carried the day against both consul and captain,
we were objects of even more than ordinary interest to
these philanthropists; and they always cordially applauded
our conduct. Besides, they invariably brought along something
in the way of refreshments; occasionally smuggling in a little

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Pisco. Upon one occasion, when there was quite a number
present, a calabash was passed round, and a pecuniary collection
taken up for our benefit.

One day a new comer proposed, that two or three of us should
pay him a sly, nocturnal visit aboard his ship; engaging to send
us away well freighted with provisions. This was not a bad
idea; nor were we at all backward in acting upon it. Night
after night every vessel in the harbor was visited in rotation,
the foragers borrowing Captain Bob's canoe for the purpose.
As we all took turns at this—two by two—in due course it
came to Long Ghost and myself, for the sailors invariably linked
us together. In such an enterprise, I somewhat distrusted the
doctor, for he was no sailor, and very tall; and a canoe is the
most ticklish of navigable things. However, it could not be
helped; and so we went.

But a word about the canoes, before we go any further.
Among the Society Islands, the art of building them, like all
native accomplishments, has greatly deteriorated; and they are
now the most inelegant, as well as the most insecure of any in
the South Seas. In Cook's time, according to his account,
there was at Tahiti a royal fleet of seventeen hundred and
twenty large war-canoes, handsomely carved, and otherwise
adorned. At present, those used are quite small; nothing more
than logs hollowed out, sharpened at one end, and then lanched
into the water.

To obviate a certain rolling propensity, the Tahitians, like
all Polynesians, attach to them what sailors call an “outrigger.”
It consists of a pole floating alongside, parallel to the canoe,
and connected with it by a couple of cross sticks, a yard or
more in length. Thus equipped, the canoe can not be over-turned,
unless you overcome the buoyancy of the pole, or lift it
entirely out of the water.

Now, Captain Bob's “gig” was exceedingly small; so small,

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and of such a grotesque shape, that the sailors christened it the
Pill Box; and by this appellation it always went. In fact, it
was a sort of “sulky,” meant for a solitary paddler, but on an
emergency, capable of floating two or three. The outrigger
was a mere switch, alternately rising in air, and then depressed
in the water.

Assuming the command of the expedition, upon the strength
of my being a sailor, I packed the Long Doctor with a paddle
in the bow, and then shoving off, leaped into the stern; thus
leaving him to do all the work, and reserving to myself the
dignified sinecure of steering. All would have gone well, were
it not that my paddler made such clumsy work, that the water
spattered, and showered down upon us without ceasing. Continuing
to ply his tool, however, quite energetically, I thought
he would improve after a while, and so let him alone. But
by and by, getting wet through with this little storm we were
raising, and seeing no signs of its clearing off, I conjured him, in
mercy's name, to stop short, and let me wring myself out.
Upon this, he suddenly turned round, when the canoe gave a
roll, the outrigger flew overhead, and the next moment came
rap on the doctor's skull, and we were both in the water.

Fortunately, we were just over a ledge of coral, not half-a-fathom
under the surface. Depressing one end of the filled
canoe, and letting go of it quickly, it bounced up, and discharged
great part of its contents; so that we easily baled out the remainder,
and again embarked. This time, my comrade coiled
himself away in a very small space; and enjoining upon him
not to draw a single unnecessary breath, I proceeded to urge
the canoe along by myself. I was astonished at his docility,
never speaking a word, and stirring neither hand nor foot; but
the secret was, he was unable to swim, and in case we met
with a second mishap, there were no more ledges beneath to
stand upon. “Drowning's but a shabby way of going out of the

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world,” he exclaimed, upon my rallying him; “and I'm not
going to be guilty of it.”

At last, the ship was at hand, and we approached with much
caution, wishing to avoid being hailed by any one from the
quarter-deck. Dropping silently under her bows, we heard a
low whistle—the signal agreed upon—and presently a goodly
sized bag was lowered over to us.

We cut the line, and then paddled away as fast as we could,
and made the best of our way home. Here, we found the
rest waiting impatiently.

The bag turned out to be well filled with sweet potatoes
boiled, cubes of salt beef and pork, and a famous sailors' pudding,
what they call “duff,” made of flour and water, and of
about the consistence of an underdone brick. With these
delicacies, and keen appetites, we went out into the moonlight,
and had a nocturnal picknick.

-- 204 --

p274-211 CHAPTER XLII. MOTOO-OTOO. —A TAHITIAN CASUIST.

[figure description] Page 204.[end figure description]

The Pill-Box was sometimes employed for other purposes
than that described in the last chapter. We sometimes went
a-pleasuring in it.

Right in the middle of Papeetee harbor is a bright, green
island, one circular grove of waving palms, and scarcely a hundred
yards across. It is of coral formation; and all round, for
many rods out, the bay is so shallow, that you might wade anywhere.
Down in these waters, as transparent as air, you see
coral plants of every hue and shape imaginable:—antlers, tufts
of azure, waving reeds like stalks of grain, and pale green buds
and mosses. In some places, you look through prickly branches
down to a snow-white floor of sand, sprouting with flinty bulbs;
and crawling among these are strange shapes:—some bristling
with spikes, others clad in shining coats-of-mail, and here and
there, round forms all spangled with eyes.

The island is called Motoo-Otoo; and around Motoo-Otoo
have I often paddled of a white moonlight night, pausing now
and then to admire the marine gardens beneath.

The place is the private property of the queen, who has a residence
there—a melancholy-looking range of bamboo houses—
neglected and falling to decay among the trees.

Commanding the harbor as it does, her majesty has done all
she could to make a fortress of the island. The margin has
been raised and leveled, and built up with a low parapet of
hewn blocks of coral. Behind the parapet, are ranged at wide

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[figure description] Page 205.[end figure description]

intervals, a number of rusty old cannon, of all fashions and
calibres. They are mounted upon lame, decrepit-looking carriages,
ready to sink under the useless burden of bearing them
up. Indeed, two or three have given up the ghost altogether,
and the pieces they sustained lie half-buried among their
bleaching bones. Several of the cannon are spiked; probably
with a view of making them more formidable; as they certainly
must be to any one undertaking to fire them off.

Presented to Pomaree at various times by captains of British
armed ships, these poor old “dogs of war,” thus toothless and
turned out to die, formerly bayed in full pack, as the battle
hounds of Old England.

There was something about Motoo-Otoo that struck my fancy;
and I registered a vow to plant my foot upon its soil, notwithstanding
an old bareheaded sentry menaced me in the moonlight
with an unsightly musket. As my canoe drew scarcely
three inches of water, I could paddle close up to the parapet
without grounding; but every time I came near, the old man
ran toward me, pushing his piece forward, but never clapping
it to his shoulder. Thinking he only meant to frighten me, I
at last dashed the canoe right up to the wall, purposing a leap.
It was the rashest act of my life; for never did cocoa-nut come
nearer getting demolished, than mine did then. With the stock
of his gun, the old warder fetched a tremendous blow, which I
managed to dodge; and then falling back, succeeded in paddling
out of harm's reach.

He must have been dumb; for never a word did he utter;
but grinning from ear to ear, and with his white cotton robe
streaming in the moonlight, he looked more like the spook of
the island than any thing mortal.

I tried to effect my object by attacking him in the rear—but
he was all front; running about the place as I paddled, and
presenting his confounded musket wherever I went. At last

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[figure description] Page 206.[end figure description]

I was obliged to retreat; and to this day my vow remains
unfulfilled.

It was a few days after my repulse from before the walls of
Motoo Otoo, that I heard a curious case of casuistry argued between
one of the most clever and intelligent natives I ever saw
in Tahiti, a man by the name of Arheetoo, and our learned
Theban of a doctor.

It was this:—whether it was right and lawful for any one,
being a native, to keep the European Sabbath, in preference to
the day set apart as such by the missionaries, and so considered
by the islanders in general.

It must be known, that the missionaries of the good ship
Duff, who more than half-a-century ago established the Tahitian
reckoning, came hither by the way of the Cape of Good
Hope; and by thus sailing to the eastward, lost one precious
day of their lives all round, getting about that much in advance
of Greenwich time. For this reason, vessels coming round
Cape Horn—as they most all do nowadays—find it Sunday
in Tahiti, when, according to their own view of the matter, it
ought to be Saturday. But as it won't do to alter the log, the
sailors keep their Sabbath, and the islanders theirs.

This confusion perplexes the poor natives mightily; and it is
to no purpose that you endeavor to explain so incomprehensible
a phenomenon. I once saw a worthy old missionary essay
to shed some light on the subject; and though I understood but
few of the words employed, I could easily get at the meaning
of his illustrations. They were something like the following:

“Here,” says he, “you see this circle” (describing a large
one on the ground with a stick): “very good; now you see
this spot here” (marking a point in the perimeter): “well;
this is Beretanee (England), and I'm going to sail round to Tahiti.
Here I go, then; (following the circle round), and there
goes the sun (snatching up another stick, and commissioning a

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bandy-legged native to travel round with it in a contrary direction).
Now then, we are both off, and both going away from
each other; and here you see I have arrived at Tahiti (making
a sudden stop); and look now, where Bandy Legs is!”

But the crowd strenuously maintained, that Bandy Legs
ought to be somewhere above them in the atmosphere; for it
was a traditionary fact, that the people from the Duff came
ashore when the sun was high overhead. And here the old
gentleman, being a very good sort of man, doubtless, but no
astronomer, was obliged to give up.

Arheetoo, the casuist alluded to, though a member of the
church, and extremely conscientious about what Sabbath he
kept, was more liberal in other matters. Learning that I was
something of a “mickonaree” (in this sense, a man able to
read, and cunning in the use of the pen), he desired the slight
favor of my forging for him a set of papers; for which, he said,
he would be much obliged, and give me a good dinner of roast
pig and Indian turnip in the bargain.

Now, Arheetoo was one of those who board the shipping
for their washing; and the competition being very great (the
proudest chiefs not disdaining to solicit custom in person,
though the work is done by their dependents), he had decided
upon a course suggested by a knowing sailor, a friend of his.
He wished to have manufactured a set of certificates, purporting
to come from certain man-of-war and merchant captains,
known to have visited the island; recommending him as one
of the best getters up of fine linen in all Polynesia.

At this time, Arheetoo had known me but two hours; and,
as he made the proposition very coolly, I thought it rather presumptuous,
and told him so. But as it was quite impossible to
convey a hint, that there was a slight impropriety in the thing,
I did not resent the insult, but simply declined.

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p274-215 CHAPTER XLIII. ONE IS JUDGED BY THE COMPANY HE KEEPS.

[figure description] Page 208.[end figure description]

Although, from its novelty, life at Captain Bob's was
pleasant enough, for the time; there were some few annoyances
connected with it, any thing but agreeable to a “soul of
sensibility.”

Prejudiced against us by the malevolent representations of
the consul and others, many worthy foreigners ashore regarded
us as a set of lawless vagabonds; though, truth to speak, better
behaved sailors never stepped on the island, nor any who gave
less trouble to the natives. But, for all this, whenever we met
a respectably dressed European, ten to one he shunned us, by
going over to the other side of the road. This was very unpleasant,
at least to myself; though, certes, it did not prey
upon the minds of the others.

To give an instance.

Of a fine evening in Tahiti—but they are all fine evenings
there—you may see a bevy of silk bonnets and parasols passing
along the Broom Road: perhaps a band of pale, little
white urchins—sickly exotics—and, oftener still, sedate, elderly
gentlemen, with canes; at whose appearance the natives, here
and there, slink into their huts. These are the missionaries,
their wives, and children, taking a family airing. Sometimes,
by the by, they take horse, and ride down to Point Venus and
back; a distance of several miles. At this place is settled the
only survivor of the first missionaries that landed—an old,
white-headed, saint-like man, by the name of Wilson, the
father of our friend, the consul.

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The little parties on foot were frequently encountered; and,
recalling, as they did, so many pleasant recollections of home
and the ladies, I really longed for a dress coat and beaver, that
I might step up and pay my respects. But, situated as I was,
this was out of the question. On one occasion, however, I
received a kind, inquisitive glance, from a matron in gingham.
Sweet lady! I have not forgotten her: her gown was a plaid.

But a glance, like hers, was not always bestowed.

One evening, passing the verandah of a missionary's dwelling,
the dame, his wife, and a pretty, blond young girl, with
ringlets, were sitting there, enjoying the sea-breeze, then
coming in, all cool and refreshing, from the spray of the reef.
As I approached, the old lady peered hard at me; and her
very cap seemed to convey a prim rebuke. The blue, English
eyes, by her side, were also bent on me. But, oh Heavens!
what a glance to receive, from such a beautiful creature! As
for the mob cap, not a fig did I care for it; but, to be taken for
any thing but a cavalier, by the ringleted one, was absolutely
unendurable.

I resolved on a courteous salute, to show my good-breeding,
if nothing more. But, happening to wear a sort of turban—
hereafter to be particularly alluded to—there was no taking it
off and putting it on again, with any thing like dignity. At
any rate, then, here goes a bow. But, another difficulty presented
itself: my loose frock was so voluminous, that I doubted
whether any spinal curviture would be perceptible.

“Good-evening, ladies,” exclaimed I, at last, advancing
winningly; “a delightful air from the sea, ladies.”

Hysterics and hartshorn! who would have thought it? The
young lady screamed, and the old one came near fainting.
As for myself, I retreated, in double quick time; and scarcely
drew breath, until safely housed in the Calabooza.

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p274-217 CHAPTER XLIV. CATHEDRAL OF PAPOAR. —THE CHURCH OF THE COCOA-NUTS.

[figure description] Page 210.[end figure description]

On Sundays I always attended the principal native church on
the outskirts of the village of Papeetee, and not far from the
Calabooza Beretanee. It was esteemed the best specimen of
architecture in Tahiti.

Of late, they have built their places of worship with more
reference to durability than formerly. At one time, there were
no less than thirty-six on the island—mere barns, tied together
with thongs, which went to destruction in a very few years.

One, built many years ago in this style, was a most remarkable
structure. It was erected by Pomaree II., who, on this
occasion, showed all the zeal of a royal proselyte. The building
was over seven hundred feet in length, and of a proportionate
width; the vast ridge-pole was at intervals supported by
a row of thirty-six cylindrical trunks of the bread-fruit tree;
and, all round, the wall-plates rested on shafts of the palm.
The roof—steeply inclining to within a man's height of the
ground—was thatched with leaves, and the sides of the edifice
were open. Thus spacious was the Royal Mission Chapel of
Papoar.

At its dedication, three distinct sermons were, from different
pulpits, preached to an immense concourse gathered from all
parts of the island.

As the chapel was built by the king's command, nearly as
great a multitude was employed in its construction, as swarmed
over the scaffolding of the great temple of the Jews. Much
less time, however, was expended. In less than three weeks

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from planting the first post, the last tier of palmetto-leaves
drooped from the eaves, and the work was done.

Apportioned to the several chiefs and their dependents, the
labor, though immense, was greatly facilitated by every one's
bringing his post, or his rafter, or his pole strung with thatching,
ready for instant use. The materials thus prepared being
afterward secured together by thongs, there was literally
“neither hammer, nor axe, nor any tool of iron heard in the
house while it was building.”

But the most singular circumstance connected with this
South Sea cathedral, remains to be related. As well for the
beauty, as the advantages of such a site, the islanders love to
dwell near the mountain streams; and so, a considerable brook,
after descending from the hills and watering the valley, was
bridged over in three places, and swept clean through the
chapel.

Flowing waters! what an accompaniment to the songs of the
sanctuary; mingling with them, the praises and thanksgivings
of the green solitudes inland.

But the chapel of the Polynesian Solomon has long since
been deserted. Its thousand rafters of habiscus have decayed,
and fallen to the ground; and now, the stream murmurs over
them in its bed.

The present metropolitan church of Tahiti is very unlike the
one just described. It is of moderate dimensions, boarded
over, and painted white. It is furnished also with blinds, but
no sashes; indeed, were it not for the rustic thatch, it would
remind one of a plain chapel at home.

The wood-work was all done by foreign carpenters, of whom
there are always several about Papeetee.

Within, its aspect is unique, and can not fail to interest a
stranger. The rafters overhead are bound round with fine
matting of variegated dyes; and all along the ridge-pole, these

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trappings hang pendent, in alternate bunches of tassels and deep
fringes of stained grass. The floor is composed of rude planks.
Regular aisles run between ranges of native settees, bottomed
with crossed braids of the cocoa-nut fibre, and furnished with
backs.

But the pulpit, made of a dark, lustrous wood, and standing
at one end, is by far the most striking object. It is preposterously
lofty; indeed, a capital bird's-eye view of the congregation
ought to be had from its summit.

Nor does the church lack a gallery, which runs round on
three sides, and is supported by columns of the cocoa-nut tree.

Its facings are here and there daubed over with a tawdry
blue; and in other places (without the slightest regard to uniformity),
patches of the same color may be seen. In their ardor
to decorate the sanctuary, the converts must have borrowed
each a brush full of paint, and zealously daubed away at the
first surface that offered.

As hinted, the general impression is extremely curious. Little
light being admitted, and every thing being of a dark color,
there is an indefinable Indian aspect of duskiness, throughout.
A strange, woody smell, also—more or less pervading every
considerable edifice in Polynesia—is at once perceptible. It
suggests the idea of worm-eaten idols packed away in some old
lumber-room at hand.

For the most part, the congregation attending this church is
composed of the better and wealthier orders—the chiefs and
their retainers; in short, the rank and fashion of the island.
This class is infinitely superior in personal beauty and general
healthfulness to the “marenhoar,” or common people; the
latter having been more exposed to the worst and most debasing
evils of foreign intercourse. On Sundays, the former are
invariably arrayed in their finery; and thus appear to the best
advantage. Nor are they driven to the chapel, as some of their

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[figure description] Page 213.[end figure description]

inferiors are to other places of worship; on the contrary, capable
of maintaining a handsome exterior, and possessing greater
intelligence, they go voluntarily.

In respect of the woodland colonnade supporting its galleries,
I called this chapel the Church of the Cocoa-nuts.

It was the first place for Christian worship in Polynesia that
I had seen; and the impression upon entering during service
was all the stronger. Majestic-looking chiefs, whose fathers
had hurled the battle-club, and old men who had seen sacrifices
smoking upon the altars of Oro, were there. And hark! hanging
from the bough of a bread-fruit tree without, a bell is being
struck with a bar of iron by a native lad. In the same spot,
the blast of the war-conch had often resounded. But to the
proceedings within.

The place is well filled. Everywhere meets the eye the gay
calico draperies worn on great occasions by the higher classes,
and forming a strange contrast of patterns and colors. In some
instances, these are so fashioned as to resemble as much as possible,
European garments. This is in excessively bad taste.
Coats and pantaloons, too, are here and there seen; but they
look awakwardly enough, and take away from the general effect.

But it is the array of countenances that most strikes you.
Each is suffused with the peculiar animation of the Polynesians,
when thus collected in large numbers. Every robe is rustling,
every limb in motion, and an incessant buzzing going on
throughout the assembly. The tumult is so great, that the voice
of the placid old missionary, who now rises, is almost inaudible.
Some degree of silence is at length obtained through
the exertions of half-a-dozen strapping fellows, in white shirts
and no pantaloons. Running in among the settees, they are
at great pains to inculcate the impropriety of making a noise,
by creating a most unnecessary racket themselves. This part
of the service was quite comical.

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[figure description] Page 214.[end figure description]

There is a most interesting Sabbath School connected with
the church; and the scholars, a vivacious, mischievous set, were
in one part of the gallery. I was amused by a party in a corner.
The teacher sat at one end of the bench, with a meek
little fellow by his side. When the others were disorderly, this
young martyr received a rap; intended, probably, as a sample
of what the rest might expect, if they didn't amend.

Standing in the body of the church, and leaning against a
pillar, was an old man, in appearance very different from
others of his countrymen. He wore nothing but a coarse,
scant mantle, of faded tappa; and from his staring, bewildered
manner, I set him down as an aged bumpkin from the
interior, unaccustomed to the strange sights and sounds of the
metropolis. This old worthy was sharply reprimanded for
standing up, and thus intercepting the view of those behind;
but not comprehending exactly what was said to him, one of
the white liveried gentry made no ceremony of grasping him
by the shoulders, and fairly crushing him down into a seat.

During all this, the old missionary in the pulpit—as well as
his associates beneath, never ventured to interfere—leaving
every thing to native management. With South Sea islanders,
assembled in any numbers, there is no other way of getting
along.

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p274-222 CHAPTER XLV. A MISSIONARY'S SERMON; WITH SOME REFLECTIONS.

[figure description] Page 215.[end figure description]

Some degree of order at length restored, the service was
continued, by singing. The choir was composed of twelve or
fifteen ladies of the mission, occupying a long bench to the left
of the pulpit. Almost the entire congregation joined in.

The first air fairly startled me; it was the brave tune of
Old Hundred, adapted to a Tahitian psalm. After the graceless
scenes I had recently passed through, this circumstance,
with all its accessories, moved me forcibly.

Many voices around were of great sweetness and compass.
The singers, also, seemed to enjoy themselves mightily; some
of them pausing, now and then, and looking round, as if to
realize the scene more fully. In truth, they sang right joyously,
despite the solemnity of the tune.

The Tahitians have much natural talent for singing; and, on
all occasions, are exceedingly fond of it. I have often heard a
stave or two of psalmody, hummed over by rakish young
fellows, like a snatch from an opera.

With respect to singing, as in most other matters, the Tahitians
widely differ from the people of the Sandwich Islands;
where the parochial flocks may be said rather to bleat than
sing.

The psalm concluded, a prayer followed. Very considerately,
the good old missionary made it short; for the congregation
became fidgety and inattentive as soon as it commenced.

-- 216 --

[figure description] Page 216.[end figure description]

A chapter of the Tahitian Bible was now read; a text
selected; and the sermon began. It was listened to with more
attention than I had anticipated.

Having been informed, from various sources, that the discourses
of the missionaries, being calculated to engage the
attention of their simple auditors, were, naturally enough, of a
rather amusing description to strangers; in short, that they
had much to say about steamboats, lord mayor's coaches, and
the way fires are put out in London, I had taken care to provide
myself with a good interpreter, in the person of an intelligent
Hawaiian sailor, whose acquaintance I had made.

“Now, Jack,” said I, before entering, “hear every word,
and tell me what you can, as the missionary goes on.”

Jack's was not, perhaps, a critical version of the discourse;
and, at the time, I took no notes of what he said. Nevertheless,
I will here venture to give what I remember of it; and,
as far as possible, in Jack's phraseology, so as to lose nothing
by a double translation.

“Good friends, I glad to see you; and I very well like to
have some talk with you to-day. Good friends, very bad times
in Tahiti; it make me weep. Pomaree is gone—the island
no more yours, but the Wee-Wee's (French). Wicked priests
here, too; and wicked idols in woman's clothes, and brass
chains.[15]

“Good friends, no you speak, or look at them—but I know
you won't—they belong to a set of robbers—the wicked Wee-Wees.
Soon these bad men be made to go very quick.
Beretanee ships of thunder come, and away they go. But no
more 'bout this now. I speak more by by.

“Good friends, many whale-ships here now; and many bad
men come in 'em. No good sailors living—that you know

-- 217 --

[figure description] Page 217.[end figure description]

very well. They come here, 'cause so bad they no keep 'em
home.

“My good little girls, no run after sailors—no go where
they go; they harm you. Where they come from, no good
people talk to 'em—just like dogs. Here, they talk to Pomaree,
and drink arva with great Poofai.[16]

“Good friends, this very small island, but very wicked, and
very poor; these two go together. Why Beretanee so great?
Because that island good island, and send mickonaree to poor
kannaka. In Beretanee, every man rich: plenty things to buy;
and plenty things to sell. Houses bigger than Pomaree's, and
more grand. Every body, too, ride about in coaches, bigger
than hers;§ and wear fine tappa every day. (Several luxurious
appliances of civilization were here enumerated, and described.)

“Good friends, little to eat left at my house. Schooner
from Sydney no bring bag of flour; and kannaka no bring pig
and fruit enough. Mickonaree do great deal for kannaka;
kannaka do little for mickonaree. So, good friends, weave
plenty of cocoa-nut baskets, fill 'em, and bring 'em to-morrow.”

Such was the substance of great part of this discourse; and,
whatever may be thought of it, it was specially adapted to the
minds of the islanders; who are susceptible to no impressions,
except from things palpable, or novel and striking. To them,
a dry sermon would be dry indeed.

-- 218 --

[figure description] Page 218.[end figure description]

The Tahitians can hardly ever be said to reflect: they are
all impulse; and so, instead of expounding dogmas, the
missionaries give them the large type, pleasing cuts, and
short, and easy lessons of the primer. Hence, any thing like
a permanent religious impression, is seldom or never produced.

In fact, there is, perhaps, no race upon earth, less disposed,
by nature, to the monitions of Christianity, than the people of
the South Sea. And this assertion is made, with full knowledge
of what is called the “Great Revival at the Sandwich
Islands,” about the year 1836; when several thousands were,
in the course of a few weeks, admitted into the bosom of the
Church. But this result was brought about by no sober moral
convictions; as an almost instantaneous relapse into every kind
of licentiousness, soon afterward testified. It was the legitimate
effect of a morbid feeling, engendered by the sense of severe
physical wants, preying upon minds excessively prone to superstition;
and, by fanatical preaching, inflamed into the belief,
that the gods of the missionaries were taking vengeance upon
the wickedness of the land.[17]

It is a noteworthy fact, that those very traits in the Tahitians,
which induced the London Missionary Society to regard them
as the most promising subjects for conversion; and which led,
moreover, to the selection of their island as the very first field
for missionary labor, eventually proved the most serious obstruction.
An air of softness in their manners, great apparent
ingenuousness and docility, at first misled; but these were the
mere accompaniments of an indolence, bodily and mental; a
constitutional voluptuousness; and an aversion to the least
restraint; which, however fitted for the luxurious state of
nature, in the tropics, are the greatest possible hinderances to
the strict moralities of Christianity.

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Added to all this, is a quality inherent in Polynesians; and
more akin to hypocrisy than any thing else. It leads them to
assume the most passionate interest, in matters for which they
really feel little or none whatever; but in which, those whose
power they dread, or whose favor they court, they believe to
be at all affected. Thus, in their heathen state, the Sandwich
Islanders actually knocked out their teeth, tore their hair, and
mangled their bodies with shells, to testify their inconsolable
grief at the demise of a high chief, or member of the royal
family. And yet, Vancouver relates, that, on such an occasion,
upon which he happened to be present, those apparently the
most abandoned to their feelings, immediately assumed the
utmost light-heartedness, on receiving the present of a penny
whistle, or a Dutch looking-glass. Similar instances, also, have
come under my own observation.

The following is an illustration of the trait alluded to, as
occasionally manifested among the converted Polynesians.

At one of the Society Islands—Raiatair, I believe—the
natives, for special reasons, desired to commend themselves
particularly to the favor of the missionaries. Accordingly,
during divine service, many of them behaved in a manner,
otherwise unaccountable, and precisely similar to their behavior
as heathens. They pretended to be wrought up to
madness by the preaching which they heard. They rolled
their eyes; foamed at the mouth; fell down in fits; and so,
were carried home. Yet, strange to relate, all this was deemed
the evidence of the power of the Most High; and, as such,
was heralded abroad.

But, to return to the Church of the Cocoa-nuts. The blessing
pronounced, the congregation disperse; enlivening the
Broom Road with their waving mantles. On either hand, they
disappear down the shaded pathways, which lead off from
the main route, conducting to hamlets in the groves, or to the

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[figure description] Page 220.[end figure description]

little marine villas upon the beach. There is considerable
hilarity; and you would suppose them just from an old-fashioned
“hevar,” or jolly heathen dance. Those who carry
Bibles, swing them carelessly from their arms, by cords of
sinnate.

The Sabbath is no ordinary day with the Tahitians. So
far as doing any work is concerned, it is scrupulously observed.
The canoes are hauled up on the beach; the nets
are spread to dry. Passing by the hen-coop huts, on the
roadside, you find their occupants idle, as usual; but less
disposed to gossip. After service, repose broods over the
whole island; the valleys reaching inland look stiller than
ever.

In short, it is Sunday—their “Taboo Day;” the very word,
formerly expressing the sacredness of their pagan observances,
now proclaiming the sanctity of the Christian Sabbath.

eaf274.n15

[15] Meaning the showy image of the Virgin in the little Catholic chapel.

eaf274.n16

[16] The word “arva,” as here employed, means brandy. Poofai was one
of the highest chiefs on the island, and a jolly companion.

eaf274.dag1

† This word, evidently a corruption of “missionary,” is used under
various significations by the natives. Sometimes, it is applied to a communicant
of the Church. But, above, it has its original meaning.

eaf274.ddag1

‡ A word generally used by foreigners to designate the natives of
Polynesia.

eaf274.sect1

§ Pomaree, some time previous, had received a present of a chariot
from Queen Victoria. It was afterward sent to Oahu (Sandwich Islands),
and there sold to pay her debts.

eaf274.n17

[17] At this period, many of the population were upon the verge of starvation.

-- 221 --

p274-228 CHAPTER XLVI. SOMETHING ABOUT THE KANNAKIPPERS.

[figure description] Page 221.[end figure description]

A worthy young man, formerly a friend of mine (I speak of
Kooloo with all possible courtesy, since after our intimacy there
would be an impropriety in doing otherwise)—this worthy
youth, having some genteel notions of retirement, dwelt in a
“maroo boro,” or bread-fruit shade, a pretty nook in a wood,
midway between the Calabooza Beretanee and the Church of
Cocoa-nuts. Hence, at the latter place, he was one of the most
regular worshipers.

Kooloo was a blade. Standing up in the congregation in all
the bravery of a striped calico shirt, with the skirts rakishly
adjusted over a pair of white sailor trowsers, and hair well
anointed with cocoa-nut oil, he ogled the ladies with an air of
supreme satisfaction. Nor were his glances unreturned.

But such looks as the Tahitian belles cast at each other:
frequently turning up their noses at the advent of a new cotton
mantle recently imported in the chest of some amorous sailor.
Upon one occasion, I observed a group of young girls, in tunics
of coarse, soiled sheeting, disdainfully pointing at a damsel in
a flaming red one. “Oee tootai owree!” said they with ineffable
scorn, “itai maitai!” (you are a good-for-nothing huzzy, no
better than you should be).

Now, Kooloo communed with the church; so did all these
censorious young ladies. Yet after eating bread-fruit at the
Eucharist, I knew several of them, the same night, to be guilty
of some sad derelictions.

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[figure description] Page 222.[end figure description]

Puzzled by these things, I resolved to find out, if possible,
what ideas, if any, they entertained of religion; but as one's
spiritual concerns are rather delicate for a stranger to meddle
with, I went to work as adroitly as I could.

Farnow, an old native who had recently retired from active
pursuits, having thrown up the business of being a sort of
running footman to the queen, had settled down in a snug
little retreat, not fifty rods from Captain Bob's. His selecting
our vicinity for his residence, may have been with some
view to the advantages it afforded for introducing his three
daughters into polite circles. At any rate, not averse to
receiving the attentions of so devoted a gallant as the doctor,
the sisters (communicants, be it remembered) kindly extended
to him, free permission to visit them sociably, whenever he
pleased.

We dropped in one evening, and found the ladies at home.
My long friend engaged his favorites, the two younger girls, at
the game of “Now,” or hunting a stone under three piles of
tappa. For myself, I lounged on a mat with Ideea the eldest,
dallying with her grass fan, and improving my knowledge of
Tahitian.

The occasion was well adapted to my purpose, and I
began.

“Ah, Ideea, mickonaree oee?” the same as drawling out—
“By the by, Miss Ideea, do you belong to the church?”

“Yes, me mickonaree,” was the reply.

But the assertion was at once qualified by certain reservations;
so curious, that I can not forbear their relation.

“Mickonaree ena” (church member here), exclaimed she,
laying her hand upon her mouth, and a strong emphasis on the
adverb. In the same way, and with similar exclamations, she
touched her eyes and hands. This done, her whole air changed
in an instant; and she gave me to understand, by unmistakable

-- 223 --

[figure description] Page 223.[end figure description]

gestures, that in certain other respects she was not exactly a
“mickonaree.” In short, Ideea was



“A sad good Christian at the heart—
A very heathen in the carnal part.”[18]

The explanation terminated in a burst of laughter, in which
all three sisters joined; and for fear of looking silly, the doctor
and myself. As soon as good-breeding would permit, we took
leave.

The hypocrisy in matters of religion, so apparent in all
Polynesian converts, is most injudiciously nourished in Tahiti,
by a zealous, and in many cases, a coercive superintendence
over their spiritual well-being. But it is only manifested with
respect to the common people, their superiors being exempted.

On Sunday mornings, when the prospect is rather small for a
full house in the minor churches, a parcel of fellows are actually
sent out with ratans into the highways and byways as whippers-in
of the congregation. This is a sober fact.

These worthies constitute a religious police; and you always
know them by the great white diapers they wear. On week
days, they are quite as busy as on Sundays; to the great terror
of the inhabitants, going all over the island, and spying out the
wickedness thereof.

Moreover, they are the collectors of fines—levied generally
in grass mats—for obstinate non-attendance upon divine worship,
and other offenses amenable to the ecclesiastical judicature
of the missionaries.

Old Bob called these fellows “kannakippers,” a corruption,
I fancy, of our word constable.

-- 224 --

[figure description] Page 224.[end figure description]

He bore them a bitter grudge; and one day, drawing near
home, and learning that two of them were just then making a
domiciliary visit at his house, he ran behind a bush; and as
they came forth, two green bread-fruit from a hand unseen,
took them each between the shoulders. The sailors in the
Calabooza were witnesses to this, as well as several natives;
who, when the intruders were out of sight, applauded Captain
Bob's spirit in no measured terms; the ladies present vehemently
joining in. Indeed, the kannakippers have no greater
enemies than the latter. And no wonder: the impertinent
varlets, popping into their houses at all hours, are forever
prying into their peccadilloes.

Kooloo, who at times was patriotic and pensive, and mourned
the evils under which his country was groaning, frequently
inveighed against the statute, which thus authorized an utter
stranger to interfere with domestic arrangements. He himself—
quite a ladies' man—had often been annoyed thereby. He
considered the kannakippers a bore.

Besides their confounded inquisitiveness, they add insult to
injury, by making a point of dining out every day at some hut
within the limits of their jurisdiction. As for the gentleman of
the house, his meek endurance of these things is amazing. But
“good easy man,” there is nothing for him but to be as hospitable
as possible.

These gentry are indefatigable. At the dead of night prowling
round the houses, and in the daytime hunting amorous
couples in the groves. Yet in one instance, the chase completely
baffled them.

It was thus.

Several weeks previous to our arrival at the island, some
one's husband and another person's wife, having taken a mutual
fancy for each other, went out for a walk. The alarm was
raised, and with hue and cry they were pursued; but nothing

-- 225 --

[figure description] Page 225.[end figure description]

was seen of them again until the lapse of some ninety days;
when we were called out from the Calabooza to behold a great
mob inclosing the lovers, and escorting them for trial to the
village.

Their appearance was most singular. The girdle excepted,
they were quite naked; their hair was long, burned yellow at
the ends, and entangled with burs; and their bodies scratched
and scarred in all directions. It seems, that acting upon the
“love in a cottage” principle, they had gone right into the
interior; and throwing up a hut in an uninhabited valley, had
lived there, until in an unlucky stroll, they were observed and
captured.

They were subsequently condemned to make one hundred
fathoms of Broom Road—a six months' work, if not more.

Often, when seated in a house, conversing quietly with its
inmates, I have known them betray the greatest confusion at the
sudden announcement of a kannakipper's being in sight. To
be reported by one of these officials as a “Tootai Owree” (in
general, signifying a bad person or disbeliever in Christianity),
is as much dreaded as the forefinger of Titus Oates was, leveled
at an alledged papist.

But the islanders take a sly revenge upon them. Upon
entering a dwelling, the kannakippers oftentimes volunteer a
pharisaical prayer-meeting: hence, they go in secret by the
name of “Boora-Artuas,” literally, “Pray-to-Gods.”

eaf274.n18

[18] Pope. (Epistle to a lady.)

eaf274.dag2

† With abhorrence and disgust the custom is alluded to by a late
benevolent visitor at the island. See page 763 of the “Memoirs of the
Life and Gospel Labors of the late Daniel Wheeler.” A work hereafter to
be more particularly alluded to.

-- 226 --

p274-233 CHAPTER XLVII. HOW THEY DRESS IN TAHITI.

[figure description] Page 226.[end figure description]

Except where the employment of making “tappa” is inflicted
as a punishment, the echoes of the cloth-mallet have
long since died away in the listless valleys of Tahiti. Formerly,
the girls spent their mornings like ladies at their tambour
frames; now, they are lounged away in almost utter indolence.
True, most of them make their own garments; but this comprises
but a stitch or two; the ladies of the mission, by the by,
being entitled to the credit of teaching them to sew.

The “kihee whihenee,” or petticoat, is a mere breadth of
white cotton, or calico; loosely enveloping the person, from
the waist to the feet. Fastened simply, by a single tuck, or by
twisting the upper corners together, this garment frequently
becomes disordered; thus affording an opportunity of being
coquettishly adjusted. Over the “kihee,” they wear a sort of
gown, open in front, very loose, and as negligent as you please.
The ladies here, never dress for dinner.

But what shall be said of those horrid hats! Fancy a bunch
of straw, plaited into the shape of a coal-scuttle, and stuck,
bolt upright, on the crown; with a yard or two of red ribbon,
flying about like kite-strings. Milliners of Paris, what would
ye say to them! Though made by the natives, they are said
to have been first contrived and recommended by the missionaries'
wives; a report, which, I really trust, is nothing but
scandal.

Curious to relate, these things for the head, are esteemed

-- 227 --

[figure description] Page 227.[end figure description]

exceedingly becoming. The braiding of the straw is one of
the few employments of the higher classes; all of which, but
minister to the silliest vanity. The young girls, however,
wholly eschew the hats; leaving those dowdy old souls, their
mothers, to make frights of themselves.

As for the men, those who aspire to European garments,
seem to have no perception of the relation subsisting between
the various parts of a gentleman's costume. To the wearer of
a coat, for instance, pantaloons are by no means indispensable;
and, a bell-crowned hat and a girdle, are full dress. The
young sailor, for whom Kooloo deserted me, presented him
with a shaggy old pea-jacket; and, with this buttoned up to
his chin, under a tropical sun, he promenaded the Broom
Road, quite elated. Doctor Long Ghost, who saw him thus,
ran away with the idea, that he was under medical treatment
at the time—in the act of taking, what the quacks call, a
“sweat.”

A bachelor friend of Captain Bob rejoiced in the possession
of a full European suit; in which he often stormed the ladies'
hearts. Having a military leaning, he ornamented the coat
with a great scarlet patch on the breast; and mounted it also,
here and there, with several regimental buttons, slyly cut from
the uniform of a parcel of drunken marines, sent ashore on a
holyday from a man-of-war. But, in spite of the ornaments, the
dress was not exactly the thing. From the tightness of the
cloth across the shoulders, his elbows projected from his sides,
like an ungainly rider's; and his ponderous legs were jammed
so hard into his slim, nether garments, that the threads of
every seam showed; and, at every step, you looked for a
catastrophe.

In general, there seems to be no settled style of dressing
among the males: they wear any thing they can get; in
some cases, awkwardly modifying the fashions of their

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[figure description] Page 228.[end figure description]

fathers, so as to accord with their own altered views of what is
becoming.

But ridiculous as many of them now appear, in foreign
habiliments, the Tahitians presented a far different appearance
in the original national costume; which was graceful in
the extreme, modest to all but the prudish, and peculiarly
adapted to the climate. But the short kilts of dyed tappa, the
tasseled maroes, and other articles formerly worn, are, at the
present day, prohibited by law, as indecorous. For what
reason necklaces and garlands of flowers, among the women,
are also forbidden, I never could learn; but, it is said, that
they were associated, in some way, with a forgotten heathen
observance.

Many pleasant, and, seemingly, innocent sports and pastimes,
are likewise interdicted. In old times, there were several athletic
games practiced; such as wrestling, foot-racing, throwing
the javelin, and archery. In all these they greatly excelled;
and, for some, splendid festivals were instituted. Among their
everyday amusements, were dancing, tossing the football, kite-flying,
flute-playing, and singing traditional ballads; now, all
punishable offenses; though most of them have been so long
in disuse, that they are nearly forgotten.

In the same way, the “Opio,” or festive harvest-home of the
bread-fruit, has been suppressed; though, as described to me,
by Captain Bob, it seemed wholly free from any immoral
tendency. Against tattooing, of any kind, there is a severe
law.

That this abolition of their national amusements and customs,
was not willingly acquiesced in, is shown in the frequent
violation of many of the statutes inhibiting them; and, especially,
in the frequency with which their “hevars,” or dances,
are practiced in secret.

Doubtless, in thus denationalizing the Tahitians, as it were,

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the missionaries were prompted by a sincere desire for good;
but the effect has been lamentable. Supplied with no amusements,
in place of those forbidden, the Tahitians, who require
more recreation than other people, have sunk into a listlessness,
or indulge in sensualities, a hundred times more pernicious,
than all the games ever celebrated in the Temple of
Tanee.

-- 230 --

p274-237 CHAPTER XLVIII. TAHITI AS IT IS.

[figure description] Page 230.[end figure description]

As in the last few chapters, several matters connected with
the general condition of the natives have been incidentally
touched upon, it may be well not to leave so important a subject
in a state calculated to convey erroneous impressions.
Let us bestow upon it, therefore, something more than a mere
cursory glance.

But in the first place, let it be distinctly understood, that in
all I have to say upon this subject, both here and elsewhere, I
mean no harm to the missionaries nor their cause; I merely
desire to set forth things as they actually exist.

Of the results which have flowed from the intercourse of
foreigners with the Polynesians, including the attempts to civilize
and christianize them by the missionaries, Tahiti, on many
accounts, is obviously the fairest practical example. Indeed, it
may now be asserted, that the experiment of christianizing the
Tahitians, and improving their social condition by the introduction
of foreign customs, has been fully tried. The present
generation have grown up under the auspices of their religious
instructors. And although it may be urged, that the labors of
the latter have at times been more or less obstructed by unprincipled
foreigners, still, this in no wise renders Tahiti any
the less a fair illustration; for, with obstacles like these, the
missionaries in Polynesia must always, and everywhere struggle.

Nearly sixty years have elapsed since the Tahitian mission
was started; and during this period, it has received the

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[figure description] Page 231.[end figure description]

unceasing prayers and contributions of its friends abroad. Nor
has any enterprise of the kind called forth more devotion on
the part of those directly employed in it.

It matters not, that the earlier laborers in the work, although
strictly conscientious, were, as a class, ignorant, and, in many
cases, deplorably bigoted: such traits have, in some degree,
characterized the pioneers of all faiths. And although in zeal
and disinterestedness, the missionaries now on the island are,
perhaps, inferior to their predecessors, they have, nevertheless,
in their own way at least, labored hard to make a Christian
people of their charge.

Let us now glance at the most obvious changes wrought in
their condition.

The entire system of idolatry has been done away; together
with several barbarous practices engrafted thereon. But this
result is not so much to be ascribed to the missionaries, as to
the civilizing effects of a long and constant intercourse with
whites of all nations; to whom, for many years, Tahiti has been
one of the principal places of resort in the South Seas. At the
Sandwich Islands, the potent institution of the Taboo, together
with the entire paganism of the land, was utterly abolished by a
voluntary act of the natives, some time previous to the arrival
of the first missionaries among them.

The next most striking change in the Tahitians is this. From
the permanent residence among them of influential and respectable
foreigners, as well as from the frequent visits of ships-of-war,
recognizing the nationality of the island, its inhabitants are no
longer deemed fit subjects for the atrocities practiced upon
mere savages; and hence, secure from retaliation, vessels of all
kinds now enter their harbors with perfect safety.

But let us consider what results are directly ascribable to the
missionaries alone.

In all cases, they have striven hard to mitigate the evils

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[figure description] Page 232.[end figure description]

resulting from the commerce with the whites in general. Such
attempts, however, have been rather injudicious, and often
ineffectual: in truth, a barrier almost insurmountable is presented
in the dispositions of the people themselves. Still, in
this respect, the morality of the islanders is, upon the whole,
improved by the presence of the missionaries.

But the greatest achievement of the latter, and one which in
itself is most hopeful and gratifying is, that they have translated
the entire Bible into the language of the island; and I have
myself known several who were able to read it with facility.
They have also established churches, and schools for both children
and adults; the latter, I regret to say, are now much
neglected; which must be ascribed, in a great measure, to the
disorders growing out of the proceedings of the French.

It were unnecessary here, to enter diffusely into matters connected
with the internal government of the Tahitian churches
and schools. Nor, upon this head, is my information copious
enough to warrant me in presenting details. But we do not
need them. We are merely considering general results, as
made apparent in the moral and religious condition of the
island at large.

Upon a subject like this, however, it would be altogether too
assuming for a single individual to decide; and so, in place of
my own random observations, which may be found elsewhere, I
will here present those of several known authors, made under
various circumstances, at different periods, and down to a comparative
late date. A few very brief extracts will enable the
reader to mark for himself what progressive improvement, if
any, has taken place.

Nor must it be overlooked, that of these authorities, the
two first in order are largely quoted by the Right Reverend
M. Russell, in a work composed for the express purpose of
imparting information on the subject of Christian missions

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[figure description] Page 233.[end figure description]

in Polynesia. And he frankly acknowledges, moreover, that
they are such as “can not fail to have great weight with the
public.”[19]

After alluding to the manifold evils entailed upon the natives
by foreigners, and their singularly inert condition; and after
somewhat too severely denouncing the undeniable errors of the
mission, Kotzebue, the Russian navigator, says, “A religion
like this, which forbids every innocent pleasure, and cramps or
annihilates every mental power, is a libel on the divine founder
of Christianity. It is true, that the religion of the missionaries
has, with a great deal of evil, effected some good. It has restrained
the vices of theft and incontinence; but it has given
birth to ignorance, hypocrisy, and a hatred of all other modes
of faith, which was once foreign to the open and benevolent
character of the Tahitian.”

Captain Beechy says, that while at Tahiti, he saw scenes
“which must have convinced the greatest skeptic of the thoroughly
immoral condition of the people, and which would force
him to conclude, as Turnbull did, many years previous, that
their intercourse with the Europeans had tended to debase,
rather than exalt their condition.Ӥ

About the year 1834, Daniel Wheeler, an honest-hearted
Quaker, prompted by motives of the purest philanthropy, visited,
in a vessel of his own, most of the missionary settlements

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[figure description] Page 234.[end figure description]

in the South Seas. He remained some time at Tahiti; receiving
the hospitalities of the missionaries there, and, from time to
time, exhorting the natives.

After bewailing their social condition, he frankly says of their
religious state, “Certainly, appearances are unpromising; and
however unwilling to adopt such a conclusion, there is reason
to apprehend, that Christian principle is a great rarity.”[20]

Such, then, is the testimony of good and unbiased men, who
have been upon the spot; but, how comes it to differ so widely
from impressions of others at home? Simply thus: instead of
estimating the result of missionary labors by the number of
heathens who have actually been made to understand and practice
(in some measure, at least) the precepts of Christianity,
this result has been unwarrantably inferred from the number
of those, who, without any understanding of these things, have
in any way been induced to abandon idolatry and conform to
certain outward observances.

By authority of some kind or other, exerted upon the natives
through their chiefs, and prompted by the hope of some worldly
benefit to the latter, and not by appeals to the reason, have conversions
in Polynesia been in most cases brought about.

Even in one or two instances—so often held up as wonderful
examples of divine power—where the natives have
impulsively burned their idols, and rushed to the waters of
baptism, the very suddenness of the change has but indicated
its unsoundness. Williams, the martyr of Erromanga, relates
an instance where the inhabitants of an island professing Christianity,
voluntarily assembled, and solemnly revived all their
heathen customs.

All the world over, facts are more eloquent than words; and
the following will show in what estimation the missionaries

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[figure description] Page 235.[end figure description]

themselves hold the present state of Christianity and morals
among the converted Polynesians.

On the island of Imeeo (attached to the Tahitian mission),
is a seminary under the charge of the Rev. Mr. Simpson and
wife, for the education of the children of the missionaries, exclusively.
Sent home—in many cases, at a very early age—to
finish their education, the pupils here are taught nothing but the
rudiments of knowledge; nothing more than may be learned in
the native schools. Notwithstanding this, the two races are
kept as far as possible from associating; the avowed reason
being, to preserve the young whites from moral contamination.
The better to insure this end, every effort is made to prevent
them from acquiring the native language.

They went even further at the Sandwich Islands; where, a
few years ago, a play-ground for the children of the missionaries
was inclosed with a fence many feet high, the more
effectually to exclude the wicked little Hawaiians.

And yet, strange as it may seem, the depravity among the
Polynesians, which renders precautions like these necessary,
was in a measure unknown before their intercourse with the
whites. The excellent Captain Wilson, who took the first missionaries
out to Tahiti, affirms, that the people of that island
had, in many things, “more refined ideas of decency than ourselves.”
[21] Vancouver, also, has some noteworthy ideas on this
subject, respecting the Sandwich Islanders.

That the immorality alluded to is continually increasing, is
plainly shown in the numerous, severe, and perpetually violated
laws against licentiousness of all kinds, in both groups of
islands.

It is hardly to be expected, that the missionaries would send
home accounts of this state of things. Hence, Captain Beechy,

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[figure description] Page 236.[end figure description]

in alluding to the “Polynesian Researches” of Ellis, says, that
the author has impressed his readers with a far more elevated
idea of the moral condition of the Tahitians, and the degree of
civilization to which they have attained, than they deserve; or,
at least, than the facts which came under his observation, authorized.
He then goes on to say, that in his intercourse with the
islanders, “they had no fear of him, and consequently acted
from the impulse of their natural feelings; so that he was the
better enabled to obtain a correct knowledge of their real disposition
and habits.[22]

From my own familiar intercourse with the natives, this last
reflection still more forcibly applies to myself.

eaf274.n19

[19] Polynesia: or an Historical Account of the Principal Islands of the
South Sea: By the Right Rev. M. Russell, LL.D. (Harpers' Family
Library Edition), p. 96.

eaf274.dag3

† A New Voyage round the World in the years 1823-24-25-26: By
Otto Von Kotzebue, Post Captain in the Russian Imperial Service (London,
1830; 2 vols. 8vo.), vol. i., p. 168.

eaf274.ddag2

‡ The author of a Voyage round the World, in the years 1800-1804
(3 vols. 8vo., London, 1805).

eaf274.sect2

§ Narrative of a Voyage to the Pacific and Bherring's Straits, under the
command of Captain F. W. Beechy, R.N. (London, 1831), vol. i., p. 287.

eaf274.n20

[20] Memoirs of the Life and Gospel Labors of the late Daniel Wheeler,
a minister of the Society of Friends (London, 1842, 8vo.), p. 757.

eaf274.n21

[21] A Missionary Voyage to the South Pacific Ocean, Appendix, pp. 336, 342.

eaf274.dag4

† See Vancouver's Voyages, 4to. edition, vol. i., p. 172.

eaf274.n22

[22] Beechy's Narrative, p. 269.

-- 237 --

p274-244 CHAPTER XLIX. SAME SUBJECT CONTINUED.

[figure description] Page 237.[end figure description]

We have glanced at their moral and religious condition;
let us see how it is with them socially, and in other respects.

It has been said, that the only way to civilize a people, is to
form in them habits of industry. Judged by this principle, the
Tahitians are less civilized now than formerly. True, their
constitutional indolence is excessive; but surely, if the spirit
of Christianity is among them, so unchristian a vice ought to
be, at least, partially remedied. But the reverse is the fact.
Instead of acquiring new occupations, old ones have been discontinued.

As previously remarked, the manufacture of tappa is nearly
obsolete in many parts of the island. So, too, with that of the
native tools and domestic utensils; very few of which are now
fabricated, since the superiority of European wares has been
made so evident.

This, however, would be all very well, were the natives to
apply themselves to such occupations as would enable them to
supply the few articles they need. But they are far from doing
so; and the majority being unable to obtain European substitutes,
for many things before made by themselves, the inevitable
consequence is seen in the present wretched and
destitute mode of life among the common people. To me, so
recently from a primitive valley of the Marquesas, the aspect
of most of the dwellings of the poorer Tahitians, and their
general habits, seemed any thing but tidy; nor could I avoid a

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[figure description] Page 238.[end figure description]

comparison, immeasurably to the disadvantage of these partially
civilized islanders.

In Tahiti, the people have nothing to do; and idleness,
everywhere, is the parent of vice. “There is scarcely any
thing,” says the good old Quaker Wheeler, “so striking, or
pitiable, as their aimless, nerveless mode of spending life.”

Attempts have repeatedly been made, to rouse them from
their sluggishness; but in vain. Several years ago, the cultivation
of cotton was introduced; and, with their usual love of
novelty, they went to work with great alacrity; but the interest
excited quickly subsided, and now, not a pound of the article
is raised.

About the same time, machinery for weaving was sent out
from London; and a factory was started at Afrehitoo, in
Imeeo. The whiz of the wheels and spindles brought in
volunteers from all quarters, who deemed it a privilege to be
admitted to work: yet, in six months, not a boy could be
hired; and the machinery was knocked down, and packed
off to Sydney.

It was the same way with the cultivation of the sugar-cane,
a plant indigenous to the island; peculiarly fitted to the soil
and climate, and of so excellent a quality, that Bligh took slips
of it to the West Indies. All the plantations went on famously,
for a while; the natives swarming in the fields, like ants, and
making a prodigious stir. What few plantations now remain,
are owned and worked by whites; who would rather pay a
drunken sailor eighteen or twenty Spanish dollars a month,
than hire a sober native for his “fish and taro.”

It is well worthy remark here, that every evidence of civilization
among the South Sea Islands, directly pertains to
foreigners; though the fact of such evidence existing at all,
is usually urged as a proof of the elevated condition of the
natives. Thus, at Honolulu, the capital of the Sandwich

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[figure description] Page 239.[end figure description]

Islands, there are fine dwelling-houses, several hotels, and
barber-shops, ay, even billiard-rooms; but all these are owned
and used, be it observed, by whites. There are tailors, and
blacksmiths, and carpenters also; but not one of them is a native.

The fact is, that the mechanical and agricultural employments
of civilized life, require a kind of exertion altogether
too steady and sustained, to agree with an indolent people
like the Polynesians. Calculated for a state of nature, in a
climate providentially adapted to it, they are unfit for any
other. Nay, as a race, they can not otherwise long exist.

The following statement speaks for itself.

About the year 1777, Captain Cook estimated the population
of Tahiti at about two hundred thousand.[23] By a regular
census, taken some four or five years ago, it was found to
be only nine thousand. This amazing decrease, not only
shows the malignancy of the evils necessary to produce
it; but, from the fact, the inference unavoidably follows, that
all the wars, child murders, and other depopulating causes,
alledged to have existed in former times, were nothing in comparison
to them.

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[figure description] Page 240.[end figure description]

These evils, of course, are solely of foreign origin. To say
nothing of the effects of drunkenness, the occasional inroads of
the small-pox, and other things, which might be mentioned, it
is sufficient to allude to a virulent disease, which now taints
the blood of at least two thirds of the common people of the
island; and, in some form or other, is transmitted from father
to son.

Their first horror and consternation at the earlier ravages of
this scourge, were pitiable in the extreme. The very name
bestowed upon it, is a combination of all that is horrid and unmentionable
to a civilized being.

Distracted with their sufferings, they brought forth their sick
before the missionaries, when they were preaching, and cried
out, “Lies, lies! you tell us of salvation; and, behold, we are
dying. We want no other salvation, than to live in this world.
Where are there any saved through your speech? Pomaree
is dead; and we are all dying with your cursed diseases.
When will you give over?”

At present, the virulence of the disorder, in individual cases,
has somewhat abated; but the poison is only the more widely
diffused.

“How dreadful and appalling,” breaks forth old Wheeler,
“the consideration, that the intercourse of distant nations
should have entailed upon these poor, untutored islanders, a
curse unprecedented, and unheard of, in the annals of history.”

In view of these things, who can remain blind to the fact,
that, so far as mere temporal felicity is concerned, the Tahitians
are far worse off now, than formerly; and although their
circumstances, upon the whole, are bettered by the presence
of the missionaries, the benefits conferred by the latter become
utterly insignificant, when confronted with the vast preponderance
of evil brought about by other means.

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[figure description] Page 241.[end figure description]

Their prospects are hopeless. Nor can the most devoted
efforts, now exempt them from furnishing a marked illustration
of a principle, which history has always exemplified. Years
ago brought to a stand, where all that is corrupt in barbarism
and civilization unite, to the exclusion of the virtues of either
state; like other uncivilized beings, brought into contact with
Europeans, they must here remain stationary until utterly
extinct.

The islanders themselves, are mournfully watching their
doom. Several years since, Pomaree II. said to Tyreman and
Bennet, the deputies of the London Missionary Society, “You
have come to see me at a very bad time. Your ancestors
came in the time of men, when Tahiti was inhabited: you are
come to behold just the remnant of my people.”

Of like import, was the prediction of Teearmoar, the high-priest
of Paree; who lived over a hundred years ago. I have
frequently heard it chanted, in a low, sad tone, by aged Tahitians:—



“A harree ta fow,
A toro ta farraro,
A now ta tararta.”
The palm-tree shall grow,
The coral shall spread,
But man shall cease.

eaf274.n23

[23] “I was convinced,” he adds, “that from the vast swarms that everywhere
appeared, this estimate was not at all too great.”

eaf274.dag5

† For an allusion to this census, see one of the chapters on Tahiti, in
the volumes of the U. S. Exploring Expedition. And, for the almost
incredible depopulation of the Sandwich Islands, in recent years, see the
same work. The progressive decrease, in certain districts, for a considerable
period, is there marked.

Ruschenberger, an intelligent surgeon in the United States Navy, takes
the following instance from the records kept on the islands. The district
of Rohalo, in Hawaii, at one time numbered 8679 souls: four years after,
the population was 6175: decrease, in that time, 2504. No extraordinary
cause is assigned for this depopulation. Vide A Voyage round the World,
in the years 1835-36-37. By W. S. Ruschenberger, M.D. (Philadelphia,
1838, 8vo.) The chapter on the Sandwich Islands.

-- 242 --

p274-249 CHAPTER L. SOMETHING HAPPENS TO LONG GHOST.

[figure description] Page 242.[end figure description]

We will now return to the narrative.

The day before the Julia sailed, Dr. Johnson paid his last
call. He was not quite so bland as usual. All he wanted was
the men's names to a paper, certifying to their having received
from him sundry medicaments, therein mentioned. This
voucher, endorsed by Captain Guy, secured his pay. But he
would not have obtained for it the sailors' signs manual, had
either the doctor or myself been present at the time.

Now, my long friend wasted no love upon Johnson; but for
reasons of his own, hated him heartily: all the same thing in
one sense; for either passion argues an object deserving thereof.
And so, to be hated cordially, is only a left-handed compliment;
which shows how foolish it is to be bitter against any one.

For my own part, I merely felt a cool, purely incidental, and
passive contempt for Johnson, as a selfish, mercenary apothecary;
and hence, I often remonstrated with Long Ghost, when
he flew out against him, and heaped upon him all manner of
scurrilous epithets. In his professional brother's presence,
however, he never acted thus; maintaining an amiable exterior,
to help along the jokes which were played.

I am now going to tell another story, in which my long friend
figures with the physician: I do not wish to bring one or the
other of them too often upon the stage; but as the thing actually
happened, I must relate it.

A few days after Johnson presented his bill, as above

-- 243 --

[figure description] Page 243.[end figure description]

mentioned, the doctor expressed to me his regret, that although he
(Johnson) had apparently been played off for our entertainment,
yet, nevertheless, he had made money out of the transaction.
And I wonder, added the doctor, if that now, he can not expect
to receive any further pay, he could be induced to call again.

By a curious coincidence, not five minutes after making this
observation, Doctor Long Ghost himself fell down in an unaccountable
fit; and without asking any body's leave, Captain
Bob, who was by, at once dispatched a boy, hot foot, for Johnson.

Meanwhile, we carried him into the Calabooza; and the
natives, who assembled in numbers, suggested various modes of
treatment. One rather energetic practitioner was for holding
the patient by the shoulders, while somebody tugged at his feet.
This resuscitatory operation was called the “Potata;” but thinking
our long comrade sufficiently lengthy without additional
stretching, we declined potataing him.

Presently the physician was spied coming along the Broom
Road at a great rate, and so absorbed in the business of locomotion,
that he heeded not the imprudence of being in a hurry
in a tropical climate. He was in a profuse perspiration; which
must have been owing to the warmth of his feelings, notwithstanding
we had supposed him a man of no heart. But his
benevolent haste upon this occasion was subsequently accounted
for: it merely arose from professional curiosity, to behold a
case most unusual in his Polynesian practice. Now, under
certain circumstances, sailors, generally so frolicsome, are exceedingly
particular in having every thing conducted with the
strictest propriety. Accordingly, they deputed me, as his intimate
friend, to sit at Long Ghost's head, so as to be ready to
officiate as “spokesman;” and answer all questions propounded
the rest to keep silent.

“What's the matter?” exclaimed Johnson, out of breath, and

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[figure description] Page 244.[end figure description]

bursting into the Calabooza: “how did it happen?—speak
quick!” and he looked at Long Ghost.

I told him how the fit came on.

“Singular”—he observed—“very: good enough pulse;” and
he let go of it, and placed his hand upon the heart.

“But what's all that frothing at the mouth?” he continued;
“and bless me! look at the abdomen!”

The region thus denominated, exhibited the most unaccountable
symptoms. A low, rumbling sound was heard; and a sort
of undulation was discernible beneath the thin cotton frock.

“Colic, sir?” suggested a by-stander.

“Colic be hanged!” shouted the physician; “who ever heard
of any body in a trance of the colic?”

During this, the patient lay upon his back, stark and straight,
giving no signs of life except those above mentioned.

“I'll bleed him!” cried Johnson at last—“run for a calabash,
one of you!”

“Life ho!” here sung out Navy Bob, as if he had just spied
a sail.

“What under the sun's the matter with him!” cried the physician,
starting at the appearance of the mouth, which had
jerked to one side, and there remained fixed.

“Pr'aps it's St. Witus's hornpipe,” suggested Bob.

“Hold the calabash!”—and the lancet was out in a moment.

But before the deed could be done, the face became natural;—
a sigh was heaved;—the eyelids quivered, opened, closed; and
Long Ghost, twitching all over, rolled on his side, and breathed
audibly. By degrees, he became sufficiently recovered to speak.

After trying to get something coherent out of him, Johnson
withdrew; evidently disappointed in the scientific interest of
the case. Soon after his departure, the doctor sat up; and upon
being asked what upon earth ailed him, shook his head mysteriously.
He then deplored the hardship of being an invalid in

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[figure description] Page 245.[end figure description]

such a place, where there was not the slightest provision for
his comfort. This awakened the compassion of our good old
keeper, who offered to send him to a place where he would be
better cared for. Long Ghost acquiesced; and being at once
mounted upon the shoulders of four of Captain Bob's men, was
marched off in state, like the Grand Lama of Thibet.

Now, I do not pretend to account for his remarkable swoon;
but his reason for suffering himself to be thus removed from the
Calabooza, was strongly suspected to be nothing more than a
desire to insure more regularity in his dinner-hour; hoping that
the benevolent native to whom he was going, would set a good
table.

The next morning, we were all envying his fortune; when of
a sudden, he bolted in upon us, looking decidedly out of humor.

“Hang it!” he cried, “I'm worse off than ever; let me have
some breakfast!” We lowered our slender bag of ship-stores
from a rafter, and handed him a biscuit. While this was being
munched, he went on and told us his story.

“After leaving here, they trotted me back into a valley, and
left me in a hut, where an old woman lived by herself. This
must be the nurse, thought I; and so I asked her to kill a pig,
and bake it; for I felt my appetite returning. `Ita! ita!—
oee mattee—mattee nuee
'—(no, no; you too sick.) `The devil
mattee ye,' said I—`give me something to eat!' But nothing
could be had. Night coming on, I had to stay. Creeping into
a corner, I tried to sleep; but it was to no purpose;—the old
crone must have had the quinsy, or something else; and she
kept up such a wheezing and choking, that at last I sprang up,
and groped after her; but she hobbled away like a goblin; and
that was the last of her. As soon as the sun rose, I made the
best of my way back; and here I am.”

He never left us more, nor ever had a second fit.

-- 246 --

p274-253 CHAPTER LI. WILSON GIVES US THE CUT. —DEPARTURE FOR IMEEO.

[figure description] Page 246.[end figure description]

About three weeks after the Julia's sailing, our condition
began to be a little precarious. We were without any regular
supply of food; the arrival of ships was growing less frequent;
and, what was worse yet, all the natives but good old Captain
Bob, began to tire of us. Nor was this to be wondered at; we
were obliged to live upon their benevolence, when they had
little enough for themselves. Beside, we were sometimes driven
to acts of marauding: such as kidnapping pigs, and cooking
them in the groves; at which their proprietors were by no
means pleased.

In this state of affairs, we determined to march off to the consul
in a body; and, as he had brought us to these straits, demand
an adequate maintenance.

On the point of starting, Captain Bob's men raised the most
outrageous cries, and tried to prevent us. Though hitherto we
had strolled about wherever we pleased, this grand conjunction
of our whole force upon one particular expedition, seemed to
alarm them. But we assured them, that we were not going to
assault the village; and so, after a good deal of gibberish, they
permitted us to leave.

We went straight to the Pritchard residence, where the consul
dwelt. This house—to which I have before referred—is
quite commodious. It has a wide verandah, glazed windows,
and other appurtenances of a civilized mansion. Upon the lawn
in front are palm-trees standing erect here and there, like

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[figure description] Page 247.[end figure description]

sentinels. The Consular Office, a small building by itself, is inclosed
by the same picket which fences in the lawn.

We found the office closed; but, in the verandah of the
dwelling-house, was a lady performing a tonsorial operation on
the head of a prim-looking, elderly European, in a low, white
cravat;—the most domestic little scene I had witnessed since
leaving home. Bent upon an interview with Wilson, the sailors
now deputed the doctor to step forward as a polite inquirer
after his health.

The pair stared very hard as he advanced; but no ways disconcerted,
he saluted them gravely, and inquired for the consul.

Upon being informed that he had gone down to the beach,
we proceeded in that direction; and soon met a native, who told
us, that apprised of our vicinity, Wilson was keeping out of the
way. We resolved to meet him; and passing through the village,
he suddenly came walking toward us; having apparently
made up his mind that any attempt to elude us would be useless.

“What do you want of me, you rascals?” he cried—a greeting
which provoked a retort in no measured terms. At this
juncture, the natives began to crowd round, and several foreigners
strolled along. Caught in the very act of speaking to
such disreputable acquaintances, Wilson now fidgeted, and
moved rapidly toward his office; the men following. Turning
upon them incensed, he bade them be off—he would have nothing
more to say to us; and then, hurriedly addressing Captain
Bob in Tahitian, he hastened on, and never stopped till the
postern of Pritchard's wicket was closed behind him.

Our good old keeper was now highly excited, bustling about
in his huge petticoats, and conjuring us to return to the Calabooza.
After a little debate, we acquiesced.

This interview was decisive. Sensible that none of the
charges brought against us would stand, yet unwilling formally
to withdraw them, the consul now wished to get rid of us

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[figure description] Page 248.[end figure description]

altogether; but without being suspected of encouraging our escape.
Thus only could we account for his conduct.

Some of the party, however, with a devotion to principle
truly heroic, swore they would never leave him, happen what
might. For my own part, I began to long for a change; and
as there seemed to be no getting away in a ship, I resolved to
hit upon some other expedient. But first, I cast about for a
comrade; and of course the long doctor was chosen. We at
once laid our heads together; and for the present, resolved to
disclose nothing to the rest.

A few days previous, I had fallen in with a couple of Yankee
lads, twins, who, originally deserting their ship at Fanning's
Island (an uninhabited spot, but exceedingly prolific in fruit of
all kinds), had, after a long residence there, roved about among
the Society group. They were last from Imeeo—the island
immediately adjoining—where they had been in the employ of
two foreigners, who had recently started a plantation there.
These persons, they said, had charged them to send over from
Papeetee, if they could, two white men for field-laborers.

Now, all but the prospect of digging and delving, suited us
exactly; but the opportunity for leaving the island was not to
be slighted; and so we held ourselves in readiness to return
with the planters; who, in a day or two, were expected to visit
Papeetee in their boat.

At the interview which ensued, we were introduced to them
as Peter and Paul; and they agreed to give Peter and Paul
fifteen silver dollars a month, promising something more, should
we remain with them permanently. What they wanted, was
men who would stay. To elude the natives—many of whom
not exactly understanding our relations with the consul, might
arrest us, were they to see us departing—the coming midnight
was appointed for that purpose.

When the hour drew nigh, we disclosed our intention to the

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[figure description] Page 249.[end figure description]

rest. Some upbraided us for deserting them; others applauded,
and said, that on the first opportunity they would follow our
example. At last, we bade them farewell. And there would
now be a serene sadness in thinking over the scene—since we
never saw them again—had not all been dashed by M'Gee's
picking the doctor's pocket of a jackknife, in the very act of
embracing him.

We stole down to the beach, where, under the shadow of a
grove, the boat was waiting. After some delay, we shipped
the oars, and pulling outside of the reef, set the sail; and with
a fair wind, glided away for Imeeo.

It was a pleasant trip. The moon was up—the air, warm—
the waves, musical—and all above was the tropical night, one
purple vault hung round with soft, trembling stars.

The channel is some five leagues wide. On one hand, you
have the three great peaks of Tahiti lording it over ranges of
mountains and valleys; and on the other, the equally romantic
elevations of Imeeo, high above which a lone peak, called by
our companions, “the Marling-spike,” shot up its verdant spire.

The planters were quite sociable. They had been sea-faring
men, and this, of course, was a bond between us. To strengthen
it, a flask of wine was produced, one of several which had been
procured in person from the French admiral's steward; for
whom the planters, when on a former visit to Papeetee, had
done a good turn, by introducing the amorous Frenchman to
the ladies ashore. Besides this, they had a calabash filled with
wild boar's meat, baked yams, bread-fruit, and Tombez potatoes.
Pipes and tobacco also were produced; and while regaling
ourselves, plenty of stories were told about the neighboring
islands.

At last we heard the roar of the Imeeo reef; and gliding
through a break, floated over the expanse within, which was
smooth as a young girl's brow, and beached the boat.

-- 250 --

p274-257 CHAPTER LII. THE VALLEY OF MARTAIR.

[figure description] Page 250.[end figure description]

We went up through groves to an open space, where we
heard voices, and a light was seen glimmering from out a
bamboo dwelling. It was the planters' retreat; and in their absence,
several girls were keeping house, assisted by an old
native, who, wrapped up in tappa, lay in the corner, smoking.

A hasty meal was prepared, and after it we essayed a nap;
but, alas! a plague, little anticipated, prevented. Unknown
in Tahiti, the musquitoes here fairly eddied round us. But
more of them anon.

We were up betimes, and strolled out to view the country.
We were in the valley of Martair; shut in, on both sides, by
lofty hills. Here and there, were steep cliffs, gay with flowering
shrubs, or hung with pendulous vines, swinging blossoms
in the air. Of considerable width at the sea, the vale contracts
as it runs inland; terminating, at the distance of several miles,
in a range of the most grotesque elevations, which seem embattled
with turrets and towers, grown over with verdure, and
waving with trees. The valley itself, is a wilderness of woodland;
with links of streams flashing through, and narrow pathways,
fairly tunneled through masses of foliage.

All alone, in this wild place, was the abode of the planters;
the only one back from the beach—their sole neighbors, the
few fishermen and their families, dwelling in a small grove of
cocoa-nut trees, whose roots were washed by the sea.

The cleared tract which they occupied, comprised some

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thirty acres, level as a prairie, part of which was under cultivation;
the whole being fenced in, by a stout palisade of trunks
and boughs of trees, staked firmly in the ground. This was
necessary, as a defense against the wild cattle and hogs over-running
the island.

Thus far, Tombez potatoes[24] were the principal crop raised;
a ready sale for them being obtained among the shipping
touching at Papeetee. There was a small patch of the taro,
or Indian turnip, also; another of yams; and, in one corner, a
thrifty growth of the sugar-cane, just ripening.

On the side of the inclosure, next the sea, was the house;
newly built of bamboos, in the native style. The furniture
consisted of a couple of sea-chests, an old box, a few cooking
utensils, and agricultural tools; together with three fowling-pieces,
hanging from a rafter; and two enormous hammocks,
swinging in opposite corners, and composed of dried bullocks'
hides, stretched out with poles.

The whole plantation was shut in by a dense forest; and,
close by the house, a dwarfed “Aoa,” or species of banian-tree,
had purposely been left twisting over the palisade, in the
most grotesque manner, and thus made a pleasant shade. The
branches of this curious tree afforded low perches, upon which
the natives frequently squatted, after the fashion of their race,
and smoked and gossiped by the hour.

We had a good breakfast of fish—speared by the natives,
before sunrise, on the reef—pudding of Indian turnip, fried
bananas, and roasted bread-fruit.

During the repast, our new friends were quite sociable and
communicative. It seems that, like nearly all uneducated

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foreigners, residing in Polynesia, they had, some time previous,
deserted from a ship; and, having heard a good deal
about the money to be made by raising supplies for whaling-vessels,
they determined upon embarking in the business.
Strolling about, with this intention, they, at last, came to Martair;
and, thinking the soil would suit, set themselves to work.
They began, by finding out the owner of the particular spot
coveted, and then making a “tayo” of him.

He turned out to be Tonoi, the chief of the fishermen; who,
one day, when exhilarated with brandy, tore his meager tappa
from his loins, and gave me to know, that he was allied by
blood with Pomaree herself; and that his mother came from the
illustrious race of pontiffs, who, in old times, swayed their
bamboo crosier over all the pagans of Imeeo. A regal, and
right reverend lineage! But, at the time I speak of, the dusky
noble was in decayed circumstances, and therefore, by no means
unwilling to alienate a few useless acres. As an equivalent, he
received from the strangers two or three rheumatic old muskets,
several red woolen shirts, and a promise to be provided for in
his old age: he was always to find a home with the planters.

Desirous of living on the cozy footing of a father-in-law, he
frankly offered his two daughters for wives; but as such, they
were politely declined; the adventurers, though not averse to
courting, being unwilling to entangle themselves in a matrimonial
alliance, however splendid in point of family.

Tonoi's men, the fishermen of the grove, were a sad set.
Secluded, in a great measure, from the ministrations of the missionaries,
they gave themselves up to all manner of lazy wickedness.
Strolling among the trees of a morning, you came upon
them napping on the shady side of a canoe hauled up among
the bushes; lying under a tree smoking; or, more frequently
still, gambling with pebbles; though, a little tobacco excepted,
what they gambled for at their outlandish games, it would be

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hard to tell. Other idle diversions they had also, in which they
seemed to take great delight. As for fishing, it employed but
a small part of their time. Upon the whole, they were a merry,
indigent, godless race.

Tonoi, the old sinner, leaning against the fallen trunk of a
cocoa-nut tree, invariably squandered his mornings at pebbles;
a gray-headed rook of a native regularly plucking him of every
other stick of tobacco obtained from his friends, the planters.
Toward afternoon, he strolled back to their abode; where he
tarried till the next morning, smoking and snoozing, and, at
times, prating about the hapless fortunes of the House of Tonoi.
But like any other easy-going old dotard, he seemed for the
most part perfectly content with cheerful board and lodging.

On the whole, the valley of Martair was the quietest place
imaginable. Could the musquitoes be induced to emigrate, one
might spend the month of August there quite pleasantly. But
this was not the case with the luckless Long Ghost and myself;
as will presently be seen.

eaf274.n24

[24] Perhaps the finest sweet potato in the world. It derives its name
from a district of Peru, near Cape Blanco, very favorable to its growth;
where, also, it is extensively cultivated: the root is very large; sometimes
as big as a good-sized melon.

-- 254 --

p274-261 CHAPTER LIII. FARMING IN POLYNESIA.

[figure description] Page 254.[end figure description]

The planters were both whole-souled fellows; but in other
respects, as unlike as possible.

One was a tall, robust Yankee, born in the backwoods of
Maine, sallow, and with a long face;—the other was a short little
Cockney, who had first clapped his eyes on the Monument.

The voice of Zeke, the Yankee, had a twang like a cracked
viol; and Shorty (as his comrade called him), clipped the aspirate
from every word beginning with one. The latter, though
not the tallest man in the world, was a good-looking young fellow,
of twenty-five. His cheeks were dyed with the fine Saxon
red, burned deeper from his roving life; his blue eye opened
well, and a profusion of fair hair curled over a well shaped head.

But Zeke was no beauty. A strong, ugly man, he was well
adapted for manual labor; and that was all. His eyes were
made to see with, and not for ogling. Compared with the
Cockney, he was grave, and rather taciturn; but there was a
deal of good old humor bottled up in him, after all. For the
rest, he was frank, good-hearted, shrewd, and resolute; and
like Shorty, quite illiterate.

Though a curious conjunction, the pair got along together
famously. But, as no two men were ever united in any enterprise,
without one getting the upper hand of the other; so, in
most matters, Zeke had his own way. Shorty, too, had imbibed
from him a spirit of invincible industry; and Heaven only knows
what ideas of making a fortune on their plantation.

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We were much concerned at this; for the prospect of their
setting us in their own persons an example of downright hard
labor, was any thing but agreeable. But it was now too late to
repent what we had done.

The first day—thank fortune—we did nothing. Having
treated us as guests thus far, they no doubt thought it would be
wanting in delicacy, to set us to work before the compliments
of the occasion were well over. The next morning, however,
they both looked business-like, and we were put to.

“Wall, b'ys” (boys), said Zeke, knocking the ashes out of
his pipe, after breakfast—“we must get at it. Shorty, give
Peter there (the doctor), the big hoe, and Paul the other, and
let's be off.” Going to a corner, Shorty brought forth three of
the implements; and distributing them impartially, trudged on
after his partner, who took the lead with something in the shape
of an axe.

For a moment left alone in the house, we looked at each
other, quaking. We were each equipped with a great, clumsy
piece of a tree, armed at one end with a heavy, flat mass of iron.

The cutlery part—especially adapted to a primitive soil—
was an importation from Sydney; the handles must have been
of domestic manufacture. “Hoes”—so called—we had heard
of, and seen; but they were harmless, in comparison with the
tools in our hands.

“What's to be done with them?” inquired I of Peter.

“Lift them up and down,” he replied; “or put them in motion,
some way or other. Paul, we are in a scrape—but hark!
they are calling;” and shouldering the hoes, off we marched.

Our destination was the farther side of the plantation, where
the ground, cleared in part, had not yet been broken up; but
they were now setting about it. Upon halting, I asked why a
plough was not used: some of the young wild steers might be
caught, and trained for draught.

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[figure description] Page 256.[end figure description]

Zeke replied, that, for such a purpose, no cattle, to his
knowledge, had ever been used in any part of Polynesia. As
for the soil of Martair, so obstructed was it with roots, crossing
and recrossing each other at all points, that no kind of a
plough could be used to advantage. The heavy Sydney hoes
were the only thing for such land.

Our work was now before us; but, previous to commencing
operations, I endeavored to engage the Yankee in a little
further friendly chat, concerning the nature of virgin soils in
general, and that of the valley of Martair in particular. So
masterly a stratagem made Long Ghost brighten up; and he
stood by ready to join in. But what our friend had to say
about agriculture, all referred to the particular part of his
plantation upon which we stood; and having communicated
enough on this head, to enable us to set to work to the best
advantage, he fell to, himself; and Shorty, who had been looking
on, followed suit.

The surface, here and there, presented closely amputated
branches of what had once been a dense thicket. They
seemed purposely left projecting, as if to furnish a handle,
whereby to drag out the roots beneath. After loosening the
hard soil, by dint of much thumping and pounding, the Yankee
jerked one of the roots, this way and that, twisting it round
and round, and then tugging at it horizontally.

“Come! lend us a hand!” he cried, at last; and, running
up, we all four strained away in concert. The tough obstacle
convulsed the surface with throes and spasms; but stuck fast,
notwithstanding.

“Dumn it!” cried Zeke, “we'll have to get a rope; run to
the house, Shorty, and fetch one.”

The end of this being attached, we took plenty of room, and
strained away once more.

“Give us a song, Shorty,” said the doctor; who was rather

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sociable, on a short acquaintance. Where the work to be
accomplished is any way difficult, this mode of enlivening toil
is quite efficacious among sailors. So, willing to make every
thing as cheerful as possible, Shorty struck up, “Were you
ever in Dumbarton?” a marvelously inspiring, but somewhat
indecorous windlass chorus.

At last, the Yankee cast a damper on his enthusiasm, by
exclaiming, in a pet, “Oh! dumn your singing! keep quiet,
and pull away!” This we now did, in the most uninteresting
silence; until, with a jerk, that made every elbow hum, the
root dragged out; and, most inelegantly, we all landed upon
the ground. The doctor, quite exhausted, stayed there; and,
deluded into believing, that, after so doughty a performance, we
would be allowed a cessation of toil, took off his hat, and
fanned himself.

“Rayther a hard customer, that, Peter,” observed the
Yankee, going up to him: “but it's no use for any on 'em to
hang back; for, I'm dumned if they haint got to come out,
whether or no. Hurrah! let's get at it agin!”

“Mercy!” ejaculated the doctor, rising slowly, and turning
round. “He'll be the death of us!”

Falling to with our hoes again, we worked singly, or together,
as occasion required, until “Nooning Time” came.

The period, so called by the planters, embraced about three
hours in the middle of the day; during which it was so excessively
hot, in this still, brooding valley, shut out from the
Trades, and only open toward the leeward side of the island,
that labor in the sun was out of the question. To use a hyperbolical
phrase of Shorty's, “It was 'ot enough to melt the nose
h'off a brass monkey.”

Returning to the house, Shorty, assisted by old Tonoi,
cooked the dinner; and, after we had all partaken thereof,
both the Cockney and Zeke threw themselves into one of the

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hammocks, inviting us to occupy the other. Thinking it no
bad idea, we did so; and, after skirmishing with the musquitoes,
managed to fall into a doze. As for the planters, more
accustomed to “Nooning,” they, at once, presented a nuptial
back to each other; and were soon snoring away at a great
rate. Tonoi snoozed on a mat, in one corner.

At last, we were roused by Zeke's crying out, “Up! b'ys;
up! rise, and shine; time to get at it agin!”

Looking at the doctor, I perceived, very plainly, that he had
decided upon something.

In a languid voice, he told Zeke, that he was not very well:
indeed, that he had not been himself for some time past;
though a little rest, no doubt, would recruit him. The Yankee,
thinking, from this, that our valuable services might be lost to
him altogether, were he too hard upon us at the outset, at once
begged us both to consult our own feelings, and not exert ourselves
for the present, unless we felt like it. Then—without
recognizing the fact, that my comrade claimed to be actually
unwell—he simply suggested, that, since he was so tired, he
had better, perhaps, swing in his hammock for the rest of the
day. If agreeable, however, I myself, might accompany him
upon a little bullock hunting excursion, in the neighboring
hills. In this proposition, I gladly acquiesced; though Peter,
who was a great sportsman, put on a long face. The muskets
and ammunition were forthwith got down from overhead; and,
every thing being then ready, Zeke cried out, “Tonoi! come;
aramai! (get up) we want you for pilot. Shorty, my lad, look
arter things, you know; and, if you likes, why, there's them
roots in the field yonder.”

Having thus arranged his domestic affairs to please
himself, though little to Shorty's satisfaction, I thought;
he slung his powder-horn over his shoulder, and we started.
Tonoi was, at once, sent on in advance; and, leaving

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the plantation, he struck into a path, which led toward the
mountains.

After hurrying through the thickets for some time, we came
out into the sunlight, in an open glade, just under the shadow
of the hills. Here, Zeke pointed aloft, to a beetling crag, far
distant; where a bullock, with horns thrown back, stood like a
statue.

-- 260 --

p274-267 CHAPTER LIV. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE WILD CATTLE IN POLYNESIA.

[figure description] Page 260.[end figure description]

Before we proceed further, a word or two concerning these
wild cattle, and the way they came on the island.

Some fifty years ago, Vancouver left several bullocks, sheep,
and goats, at various places in the Society group. He instructed
the natives to look after the animals carefully; and by no
means to slaughter any, until a considerable stock had accumulated.

The sheep must have died off; for I never saw a solitary
fleece in any part of Polynesia. The pair left, were an ill assorted
couple, perhaps; separated in disgust, and died without issue.

As for the goats, occasionally you come across a black, misanthropic
ram, nibbling the scant herbage of some height inaccessible
to man, in preference to the sweet grasses of the valley
below. The goats are not very numerous.

The bullocks, coming of a prolific ancestry, are a hearty
set, racing over the island of Imeeo in considerable numbers;
though in Tahiti, but few of them are seen. At the former
place, the original pair must have scampered off to the interior,
since it is now so thickly populated by their wild progeny.
The herds are the private property of Queen Pomaree; from
whom the planters had obtained permission to shoot for their
own use, as many as they pleased.

The natives stand in great awe of these cattle; and for this
reason, are excessively timid in crossing the island, preferring
rather to sail round to an opposite village in their canoes.

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Tonoi abounded in bullock stories; most of which, by the
by, had a spice of the marvelous. The following is one of
these.

Once upon a time, he was going over the hills with a brother—
now no more— when a great bull came bellowing out of a
wood, and both took to their heels. The old chief sprang into a
tree; his companion, flying in an opposite direction, was pursued,
and in the very act of reaching up to a bough, trampled under
foot. The unhappy man was then gored—tossed in the air—
and finally run away with on the bull's horns. More dead than
alive, Tonoi waited till all was over, and then made the best of
his way home. The neighbors, armed with two or three muskets,
at once started to recover, if possible, his unfortunate
brother's remains. At nightfall, they returned without discovering
any trace of him; but the next morning, Tonoi himself
caught a glimpse of a bullock, marching across the mountain's
brow, with a long dark object borne aloft on his horns.

Having referred to Vancouver's attempts to colonize the
islands with useful quadrupeds, we may as well say something
concerning his success upon Hawaii, one of the largest islands
in the whole Polynesian Archipelago; and which gives the native
name to the well known cluster named by Cook in honor
of Lord Sandwich.

Hawaii is some one hundred leagues in circuit, and covers an
area of over four thousand square miles. Until within a few
years past, its interior was almost unknown, even to the inhabitants
themselves, who, for ages, had been prevented from wandering
thither, by certain strange superstitions. Pelee, the
terrific goddess of the volcanoes Mount Roa and Mount Kea,[25]
was supposed to guard all the passes to the extensive valleys

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lying round their base. There are legends of her having chased
with streams of fire several impious adventurers. Near Hilo,
a jet-black cliff is shown, with the vitreous torrent apparently
pouring over into the sea: just as it cooled after one of these
supernatural eruptions.

To these inland valleys, and the adjoining hillsides, which
are clothed in the most luxuriant vegetation, Vancouver's bullocks
soon wandered; and unmolested for a long period, multiplied
in vast herds.

Some twelve or fifteen years ago, the natives, losing sight of
their superstitions, and learning the value of the hides in commerce,
began hunting the creatures that wore them; but being
very fearful and awkward in a business so novel, their success
was small; and it was not until the arrival of a party of Spanish
hunters, men regularly trained to their calling upon the
plains of California, that the work of slaughter was fairly begun.

The Spaniards were showy fellows, tricked out in gay blankets,
leggins worked with porcupine quills, and jingling spurs.
Mounted upon trained Indian mares, these heroes pursued their
prey up to the very base of the burning mountains; making the
profoundest solitudes ring with their shouts, and flinging the
lasso under the very nose of the vixen goddess Pelee. Hilo, a
village upon the coast, was their place of resort; and thither
flocked roving whites from all the islands of the group. As
pupils of the dashing Spaniards, many of these dissipated fellows,
quaffing too freely of the stirrup-cup, and riding headlong
after the herds, when they reeled in the saddle, were unhorsed
and killed.

This was about the year 1835, when the present king, Tammahamaha
III. was a lad. With royal impudence, laying claim
to the sole property of the cattle, he was delighted with the

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idea of receiving one of every two silver dollars paid down for
their hides; so, with no thought for the future, the work of extermination
went madly on. In three years' time, eighteen
thousand bullocks were slain, almost entirely upon the single
island of Hawaii.

The herds being thus nearly destroyed, the sagacious young
prince imposed a rigorous “taboo” upon the few surviving
cattle, which was to remain in force for ten years. During this
period—not yet expired—all hunting is forbidden, unless directly
authorized by the king.

The massacre of the cattle extended to the hapless goats. In
one year, three thousand of their skins were sold to the merchants
of Honolulu, fetching a quartilia, or a shilling sterling
apiece.

After this digression, it is time to run on after Tonoi and the
Yankee.

eaf274.n25

[25] Perhaps the most remarkable volcanoes in the world. For very interesting
accounts of three adventurous expeditions to their summits (seventeen
thousand feet above the level of the sea), see Lord Byron's Voyage of
H.B.M. Ship Blonde; Ellis's Journal of a Visit to the Sandwich Islands;
and Wilke's Narrative of the U.S. Exploring Expedition.

-- 264 --

p274-271 CHAPTER LV. A HUNTING RAMBLE WITH ZEKE.

[figure description] Page 264.[end figure description]

At the foot of the mountain, a steep path went up among
rocks and clefts, mantled with verdure. Here and there were
green gulfs, down which it made one giddy to peep. At last
we gained an overhanging, wooded shelf of land which crowned
the heights; and along this, the path, well shaded, ran like a
gallery.

In every direction, the scenery was enchanting. There was
a low, rustling breeze; and below, in the vale, the leaves
were quivering; the sea lay, blue and serene, in the distance;
and inland the surface swelled up, ridge after ridge, and peak
upon peak, all bathed in the Indian haze of the Tropics, and
dreamy to look upon. Still valleys, leagues away, reposed in
the deep shadows of the mountains; and here and there,
water-falls lifted up their voices in the solitude. High above
all, and central, the “Marling-spike” lifted its finger. Upon
the hillsides, small groups of bullocks were seen; some quietly
browsing; others slowly winding into the valleys.

We went on, directing our course for a slope of the hills, a
mile or two further, where the nearest bullocks were seen.

We were cautious in keeping to windward of them; their
sense of smell and hearing being, like those of all wild creatures,
exceedingly acute.

As there was no knowing that we might not surprise some
other kind of game in the coverts through which we were passing,
we crept along warily.

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The wild hogs of the island are uncommonly fierce; and as
they often attack the natives, I could not help following Tonoi's
example of once in a while peeping in under the foliage. Frequent
retrospective glances also, served to assure me that our
retreat was not cut off.

As we rounded a clump of bushes, a noise behind them, like
the crackling of dry branches, broke the stillness. In an instant,
Tonoi's hand was on a bough, ready for a spring, and
Zeke's finger touched the trigger of his piece. Again the stillness
was broken; and thinking it high time to get ready, I
brought my musket to my shoulder.

“Look sharp!” cried the Yankee; and dropping on one knee,
he brushed the twigs aside. Presently, off went his piece; and
with a wild snort, a black, bristling boar—his cherry red lip
curled up by two glittering tusks—dashed, unharmed, across
the path, and crashed through the opposite thicket. I saluted
him with a charge as he disappeared; but not the slightest notice
was taken of the civility.

By this time, Tonoi, the illustrious descendant of the Bishops
of Imeeo, was twenty feet from the ground. “Aramai! come
down, you old fool!” cried the Yankee; “the pesky critter's on
t'other side of the island afore this.

“I rayther guess,” he continued, as we began reloading,
“that we've spoiled sport by firing at that ere 'tarnal hog. Them
bullocks' heard the racket, and is flinging their tails about now
on the keen jump. Quick, Paul, and let's climb that rock yonder,
and see if so be there's any in sight.”

But none were to be seen, except at such a distance that they
looked like ants.

As evening was now at hand, my companion proposed our
returning home forthwith; and then, after a sound night's rest,
starting in the morning upon a good day's hunt with the whole
force of the plantation.

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Following another path, in descending into the valley, we passed
through some nobly wooded land on the face of the mountain.

One variety of tree particularly attracted my attention. The
dark mossy stem, over seventy feet high, was perfectly branchless
for many feet above the ground, when it shot out in broad
boughs laden with lustrous leaves of the deepest green. And
all round the lower part of the trunk, thin, slab-like buttresses
of bark, perfectly smooth, and radiating from a common center,
projected along the ground for at least two yards. From below,
these natural props tapered upward until gradually blended with
the trunk itself. There were signs of the wild cattle having sheltered
themselves behind them. Zeke called this the canoetree;
as in old times it supplied the navies of the Kings of Tahiti.
For canoe-building, the wood is still used. Being extremely
dense, and impervious to worms, it is very durable.

Emerging from the forest, when half-way down the hillside,
we came upon an open space, covered with ferns and grass,
over which a few lonely trees were casting long shadows in
the setting sun. Here, a piece of ground some hundred feet
square, covered with weeds and brambles, and sounding hollow
to the tread, was inclosed by a ruinous wall of stones. Tonoi
said it was an almost forgotten burial-place, of great antiquity,
where no one had been interred since the islanders had been
Christians. Sealed up in dry, deep vaults, many a dead heathen
was lying here.

Curious to prove the old man's statement, I was anxious to
get a peep at the catacombs; but hermetically overgrown with
vegetation, as they were, no aperture was visible.

Before gaining the level of the valley, we passed by the site
of a village, near a water-course, long since deserted. There
was nothing but stone walls, and rude dismantled foundations
of houses, constructed of the same material. Large trees and
brush-wood were growing rankly among them.

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[figure description] Page 267.[end figure description]

I asked Tonoi how long it was since any one had lived here.
“Me, tammaree (boy)—plenty kannaker (men) Martair,” he
replied. “Now, only poor pehe kannaka (fishermen) left—me
born here.”

Going down the valley, vegetation of every kind presented
a different aspect from that of the high land.

Chief among the trees of the plain on this island, is the “Ati,”
large and lofty, with a massive trunk, and broad, laurel-shaped
leaves. The wood is splendid. In Tahiti, I was shown a narrow,
polished plank, fit to make a cabinet for a king. Taken
from the heart of the tree, it was of a deep, rich scarlet, traced
with yellow veins, and in some places clouded with hazel.

In the same grove with the regal “Ati,” you may see the
beautiful flowering “Hotoo;” its pyramid of shining leaves diversified
with numberless small, white blossoms.

Planted with trees as the valley is, almost throughout its entire
length, I was astonished to observe so very few which were
useful to the natives: not one in a hundred was a cocoa-nut or
bread-fruit tree.

But here Tonoi again enlightened me. In the sanguinary
religious hostilities which ensued upon the conversion to Christianity
of the first Pomaree, a war party from Tahiti destroyed
(by “girdling” the bark) entire groves of these invaluable
trees. For some time afterward, they stood stark and leafless
in the sun; sad monuments of the fate which befell the inhabitants
of the valley.

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p274-275 CHAPTER LVI. MUSQUITOES.

[figure description] Page 268.[end figure description]

The night following the hunting trip, Long Ghost and myself,
after a valiant defense, had to fly the house on account of
the musquitoes.

And here I can not avoid relating a story, rife among the
natives, concerning the manner in which these insects were
introduced upon the island.

Some years previous, a whaling captain, touching at an adjoining
bay, got into difficulty with its inhabitants, and at last
carried his complaint before one of the native tribunals; but
receiving no satisfaction, and deeming himself aggrieved, he
resolved upon taking signal revenge. One night, he towed a
rotten old water-cask ashore, and left it in a neglected Taro
patch, where the ground was warm and moist. Hence the
musquitoes.

I tried my best to learn the name of this man: and hereby
do what I can to hand it down to posterity. It was Coleman—
Nathan Coleman. The ship belonged to Nantucket.

When tormented by the musquitoes, I found much relief in
coupling the word “Coleman” with another of one syllable, and
pronouncing them together energetically.

The doctor suggested a walk to the beach, where there was
a long, low shed tumbling to pieces, but open lengthwise to a
current of air which he thought might keep off the musquitoes.
So thither we went.

The ruin partially sheltered a relic of times gone by, which,

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a few days after, we examined with much curiosity. It was an
old war-canoe, crumbling to dust. Being supported by the
same rude blocks upon which, apparently, it had years before
been hollowed out, in all probability it had never been afloat.

Outside, it seemed originally stained of a green color, which,
here and there, was now changed into a dingy purple. The
prow terminated in a high, blunt beak; both sides were covered
with carving; and upon the stern was something which Long
Ghost maintained to be the arms of the royal House of Pomaree.
The device had an heraldic look, certainly—being two
sharks with the talons of hawks clawing a knot left projecting
from the wood.

The canoe was at least forty feet long, about two wide, and
four deep. The upper part—consisting of narrow planks laced
together with cords of sinnate—had in many places fallen off,
and lay decaying upon the ground. Still, there were ample accommodations
left for sleeping; and in we sprang—the doctor
into the bow, and I, into the stern. I soon fell asleep; but waking
suddenly, cramped in every joint from my constrained posture,
I thought, for an instant, that I must have been prematurely
screwed down in my coffin.

Presenting my compliments to Long Ghost, I asked how it
fared with him.

“Bad enough,” he replied, as he tossed about in the outlandish
rubbish lying in the bottom of our couch. “Pah! how
these old mats smell!”

As he continued talking in this exciting strain for some time,
I at last made no reply, having resumed certain mathematical
reveries to induce repose. But finding the multiplication-table
of no avail, I summoned up a grayish image of chaos in a sort
of sliding fluidity, and was just falling into a nap on the
strength of it, when I heard a solitary and distinct buzz. The
hour of my calamity was at hand. One blended hum, the

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creature darted into the canoe like a small sword-fish; and I
out of it.

Upon getting into the open air, to my surprise, there was
Long Ghost, fanning himself wildly with an old paddle. He
had just made a noiseless escape from a swarm, which had
attacked his own end of the canoe.

It was now proposed to try the water; so a small fishing
canoe, hauled up near by, was quickly lanched; and paddling
a good distance off, we dropped overboard the native contrivance
for an anchor—a heavy stone, attached to a cable of
braided bark. At this part of the island, the encircling reef
was close to the shore, leaving the water within smooth, and
extremely shallow.

It was a blessed thought! We knew nothing till sunrise,
when the motion of our aquatic cot awakened us. I looked
up, and beheld Zeke wading toward the shore, and towing us
after him by the bark cable. Pointing to the reef, he told us
we had had a narrow escape.

It was true enough; the water-sprites had rolled our stone
out of its noose, and we had floated away.

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p274-278 CHAPTER LVII. THE SECOND HUNT IN THE MOUNTAINS.

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Fair dawned, over the hills of Martair, the jocund morning
of our hunt.

Every thing had been prepared for it overnight; and, when
we arrived at the house, a good breakfast was spread by
Shorty: and old Tonoi was bustling about like an innkeeper.
Several of his men, also, were in attendance, to accompany us
with calabashes of food; and, in case we met with any success,
to officiate as bearers of burdens, on our return.

Apprised, the evening previous, of the meditated sport,
the doctor had announced his willingness to take part
therein.

Now, subsequent events made us regard this expedition
as a shrewd device of the Yankee's. Once get us off on a
pleasure trip, and with what face could we afterward refuse to
work? Beside, he enjoyed all the credit of giving us a holyday.
Nor did he omit assuring us, that, work or play, our
wages were all the while running on.

A dilapidated old musket of Tonoi's, was borrowed for the
doctor. It was exceedingly short and heavy, with a clumsy
lock, which required a strong finger to pull the trigger. On
trying the piece, by firing at a mark, Long Ghost was satisfied
that it could not fail of doing execution: the charge went one
way, and he the other.

Upon this, he endeavored to negotiate an exchange of muskets
with Shorty; but the Cockney was proof against his

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blandishments; at last he intrusted his weapon to one of the
natives to carry for him.

Marshaling our forces, we started for the head of the valley;
near which, a path ascended to a range of high land, said to be
a favorite resort of the cattle.

Shortly after gaining the heights, a small herd, some way
off, was perceived entering a wood. We hurried on; and,
dividing our party, went in after them, at four different points;
each white man followed by several natives.

I soon found myself in a dense covert; and, after looking
round, was just emerging into a clear space, when I heard a
report, and a bullet knocked the bark from a tree near by.
The same instant, there was a trampling and crashing; and five
bullocks, nearly abreast, broke into view across the opening,
and plunged right toward the spot where myself and three of
the islanders were standing.

They were small, black, vicious-looking creatures; with
short, sharp horns, red nostrils, and eyes like coals of fire. On
they came—their dark woolly heads hanging down.

By this time, my island backers were roosting among the
trees. Glancing round, for an instant, to discover a retreat in
case of emergency, I raised my piece, when a voice cried out,
from the wood, “Right between the 'orns, Paul! right between
the 'orns!” Down went my barrel, in range with a
small white tuft on the forehead of the headmost one; and,
letting him have it, I darted to one side. As I turned again,
the five bullocks shot by like a blast, making the air eddy in
their wake.

The Yankee now burst into view, and saluted them in flank.
Whereupon, the fierce little bull with the tufted forehead,
flirted his long tail over his buttocks; kicked out, with his
hind feet, and shot forward a full length. It was nothing but
a graze; and, in an instant, they were out of sight, the thicket

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into which they broke rocking overhead, and marking their
progress.

The action over, the heavy artillery came up, in the person
of the Long Doctor, with his blunderbuss.

“Where are they?” he cried, out of breath.

“A mile or two h'off, by this time,” replied the Cockney.
“Lord, Paul! you ought to've sent an 'ail stone into that little
black 'un.”

While excusing my want of skill, as well as I could, Zeke,
rushing forward, suddenly exclaimed, “Creation! what are
you 'bout there, Peter?”

Peter, incensed at our ill luck, and ignorantly imputing it to
the cowardice of our native auxiliaries, was bringing his piece
to bear upon his trembling squire—the musket carrier—now
descending a tree.

Pulling trigger, the bullet went high over his head; and, hopping
to the ground, bellowing like a calf, the fellow ran away
as fast as his heels could carry him. The rest followed us,
after this, with fear and trembling.

After forming our line of march anew, we went on for
several hours, without catching a glimpse of the game; the
reports of the muskets having been heard at a great distance.
At last, we mounted a craggy height, to obtain a wide view of
the country. From this place, we beheld three cattle, quietly
browsing in a green opening of a wood below; the trees shutting
them in all round.

A general reëxamination of the muskets now took place,
followed by a hasty lunch from the calabashes: we then
started. As we descended the mountain-side, the cattle were
in plain sight, until we entered the forest, when we lost sight
of them for a moment; but only to see them again, as we
crept close up to the spot where they grazed.

They were a bull, a cow, and a calf. The cow was lying

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down in the shade, by the edge of the wood; the calf, sprawling
out before her in the grass, licking her lips; while old
Taurus himself stood close by, casting a paternal glance at this
domestic little scene, and conjugally elevating his nose in the
air.

“Now then,” said Zeke, in a whisper, “let's take the poor
creeturs, while they are huddled together. Crawl along, b'ys;
crawl along. Fire together, mind; and not 'till I say the
word.”

We crept up to the very edge of the open ground, and
knelt behind a clump of bushes; resting our leveled barrels
among the branches. The slight rustling was heard. Taurus
turned round, dropped his head to the ground, and sent forth
a low, sullen bellow; then snuffed the air. The cow rose on
her fore knees, pitched forward alarmedly, and stood upon
her legs; while the calf, with ears pricked, got right under
neath her. All three were now grouped, and, in an instant
would be off.

“I take the bull,” cried our leader; “fire!”

The calf fell like a clod; its dam uttered a cry, and thrust
her head into the thicket; but she turned, and came moaning
up to the lifeless calf, going round and round it, snuffing
fiercely with her bleeding nostrils. A crashing in the wood, and
a loud roar, announced the flying bull.

Soon, another shot was fired, and the cow fell. Leaving
some of the natives to look after the dead cattle, the rest of us
hurried on after the bull; his dreadful bellowings guiding us to
the spot where he lay. Wounded in the shoulder, in his fright
and agony he had bounded into the wood; but when we came
up to him, he had sunk to the earth in a green hollow, thrusting
his black muzzle into a pool of his own blood, and tossing
it over his hide in clots.

The Yankee brought his piece to a rest; and, the next

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[figure description] Page 275.[end figure description]

instant, the wild brute sprang into the air, and with his fore legs
crouching under him, fell dead.

Our island friends were now in high spirits; all courage and
alacrity. Old Tonoi thought nothing of taking poor Taurus
himself by the horns, and peering into his glazed eyes.

Our ship knives were at once in request; and, skinning the
cattle, we hung them high up by cords of bark from the
boughs of a tree. Withdrawing into a covert, we there waited
for the wild hogs; which, according to Zeke, would soon
make their appearance, lured by the smell of blood. Presently,
we heard them coming, in two or three different directions;
and, in a moment, they were tearing the offal to pieces.

As only one shot at these creatures could be relied on, we
intended firing simultaneously; but, somehow or other, the
doctor's piece went off by itself, and one of the hogs dropped.
The others then breaking into the thicket, the rest of us sprang
after them; resolved to have another shot at all hazards.

The Cockney darted among some bushes; and, a few
moments after, we heard the report of his musket, followed by
a quick cry. On running up, we saw our comrade doing
battle with a young devil of a boar, as black as night, whose
snout had been partly torn away. Firing when the game was
in full career, and coming directly toward him, Shorty had
been assailed by the enraged brute; it was now crunching
the breech of the musket, with which he had tried to club it;
Shorty holding fast to the barrel, and fingering his waist for a
knife. Being in advance of the others, I clapped my gun to
the boar's head, and so put an end to the contest.

Evening now coming on, we set to work loading our carriers.
The cattle were so small, that a stout native could walk
off with an entire quarter; brushing through thickets, and
descending rocks without an apparent effort: though, to tell the
truth, no white man present could have done the thing with

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any ease. As for the wild hogs, none of the islanders could
be induced to carry Shorty's; some invincible superstition
being connected with its black color. We were, therefore,
obliged to leave it. The other, a spotted one, being slung by
green thongs to a pole, was marched off with by two young
natives.

With our bearers of burdens ahead, we then commenced
our return down the valley. Half-way home, darkness over-took
us in the woods; and torches became necessary. We
stopped, and made them of dry palm branches; and then,
sending two lads on in advance, for the purpose of gathering
fuel to feed the flambeaux, we continued our journey.

It was a wild sight. The torches, waved aloft, flashed
through the forest; and, where the ground admitted, the
islanders went along on a brisk trot, notwithstanding they
bent forward under their loads. Their naked backs were
stained with blood; and occasionally, running by each other,
they raised wild cries, which startled the hillsides.

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CHAPTER LVIII. THE HUNTING-FEAST; AND A VISIT TO AFREHITOO.

[figure description] Page 277.[end figure description]

Two bullocks and a boar! No bad trophies of our day's
sport. So by torchlight we marched into the plantation, the
wild hog rocking from its pole, and the doctor singing an old
hunting-song—Tally-ho! the chorus of which swelled high
above the yells of the natives.

We resolved to make a night of it. Kindling a great fire
just outside the dwelling, and hanging one of the heifer's quarters
from a limb of the banian-tree, every one was at liberty
to cut and broil for himself. Baskets of roasted bread-fruit, and
plenty of taro pudding; bunches of bananas, and young cocoa-nuts,
had also been provided by the natives against our return.

The fire burned bravely, keeping off the musquitoes, and
making every man's face glow like a beaker of Port. The
meat had the true wild-game flavor, not at all impaired by our
famous appetites, and a couple of flasks of white brandy, which
Zeke, producing from his secret store, circulated freely.

There was no end to my long comrade's spirits. After
telling his stories, and singing his songs, he sprang to his feet,
clasped a young damsel of the grove round the waist, and
waltzed over the grass with her. But there's no telling all the
pranks he played that night. The natives, who delight in a
wag, emphatically pronounced him “maitai.”

It was long after midnight ere we broke up; but when the
rest had retired, Zeke, with the true thrift of a Yankee, salted
down what was left of the meat.

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The next day was Sunday; and at my request, Shorty accompanied
me to Afrehitoo—a neighboring bay, and the seat
of a mission, almost directly opposite Papeetee. In Afrehitoo
is a large church and school-house, both quite dilapidated; and
planted amid shrubbery on a fine knoll, stands a very tasteful
cottage, commanding a view across the channel. In passing, I
caught sight of a graceful calico skirt disappearing from the
piazza through a doorway. The place was the residence of
the missionary.

A trim little sail-boat was dancing out at her moorings, a few
yards from the beach.

Straggling over the low lands in the vicinity were several
native huts—untidy enough—but much better every way, than
most of those in Tahiti.

We attended service at the church, where we found but a
small congregation; and after what I had seen in Papeetee,
nothing very interesting took place. But the audience had a
curious, fidgety look, which I knew not how to account for,
until we ascertained that a sermon with the eighth commandment
for a text was being preached.

It seemed that there lived an Englishman in the district, who,
like our friends, the planters, was cultivating Tombez potatoes
for the Papeetee market.

In spite of all his precautions, the natives were in the habit
of making nocturnal forays into his inclosure, and carrying off
the potatoes. One night he fired a fowling-piece, charged with
pepper and salt, at several shadows which he discovered stealing
across his premises. They fled. But it was like seasoning
any thing else: the knaves stole again with a greater relish than
ever; and the very next night, he caught a party in the act of
roasting a basket full of potatoes under his own cooking-shed.
At last, he stated his grievances to the missionary; who, for the
benefit of his congregation, preached the sermon we heard.

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Now, there were no thieves in Martair; but then, the people
of the valley were bribed to be honest. It was a regular business
transaction between them and the planters. In consideration
of so many potatoes “to them in hand, duly paid,” they were to
abstain from all depredations upon the plantation. Another
security against roguery, was the permanent residence upon
the premises, of their chief, Tonoi.

On our return to Martair, in the afternoon, we found the
doctor and Zeke making themselves comfortable. The latter
was reclining on the ground, pipe in mouth, watching the doctor,
who, sitting like a Turk, before a large iron kettle, was
slicing potatoes and Indian turnip, and now and then shattering
splinters from a bone; all of which, by turns, were thrown into
the pot. He was making what he called “Bullock broth.”

In gastronomic affairs, my friend was something of an artist;
and by way of improving his knowledge, did nothing the rest
of the day but practice in what might be called Experimental
Cookery: broiling and grilling, and deviling slices of meat,
and subjecting them to all sorts of igneous operations. It was
the first fresh beef that either of us had tasted in more than a
year.

“Oh, ye'll pick up arter a while, Peter,” observed Zeke
toward night, as Long Ghost was turning a great rib over the
coals—“what d'ye think, Paul?”

“He'll get along, I dare say,” replied I; “he only wants to
get those cheeks of his tanned.” To tell the truth, I was not a
little pleased to see the doctor's reputation as an invalid fading
away so fast; especially, as on the strength of his being one,
he had promised to have such easy times of it, and very likely,
too, at my expense.

-- 280 --

p274-287 CHAPTER LIX. THE MURPHIES.

[figure description] Page 280.[end figure description]

Dozing in our canoe the next morning about daybreak, we
were wakened by Zeke's hailing us loudly from the beach.

Upon paddling up, he told us that a canoe had arrived overnight,
from Papeetee, with an order from a ship lying there, for
a supply of his potatoes; and as they must be on board the vessel
by noon, he wanted us to assist in bringing them down to
his sail-boat.

My long comrade was one of those, who, from always thrusting
forth the wrong foot foremost when they rise, or committing
some other indiscretion of the limbs, are more or less crabbed
or sullen before breakfast. It was in vain, therefore, that the
Yankee deplored the urgency of the case, which obliged him
to call us up thus early:—the doctor only looked the more
glum, and said nothing in reply.

At last, by way of getting up a little enthusiasm for the occasion,
the Yankee exclaimed quite spiritedly, “What d'ye say,
then, b'ys, shall we git at it?”

“Yes, in the devil's name!” replied the doctor, like a snapping
turtle; and we moved on to the house. Notwithstanding
his ungracious answer, he probably thought that after the gastronomic
performance of the day previous, it would hardly do
to hang back. At the house, we found Shorty ready with the
hoes; and we at once repaired to the farther side of the inclosure,
where the potatoes had yet to be taken out of the
ground.

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The rich, tawny soil seemed specially adapted to the crop;
the great yellow murphies rolling out of the hills like eggs from
a nest.

My comrade really surprised me by the zeal with which he
applied himself to his hoe. For my own part, exhilarated by
the cool breath of the morning, I worked away like a good
fellow. As for Zeke and the Cockney, they seemed mightily
pleased at this evidence of our willingness to exert ourselves.

It was not long ere all the potatoes were turned out; and then
came the worst of it: they were to be lugged down to the
beach, a distance of at least a quarter of a mile. And there
being no such thing as a barrow, or cart, on the island, there
was nothing for it but spinal-marrows and broad shoulders.
Well knowing that this part of the business would be any thing
but agreeable, Zeke did his best to put as encouraging a face
upon it as possible; and giving us no time to indulge in desponding
thoughts, gleefully directed our attention to a pile of
rude baskets—made of stout stalks—which had been provided
for the occasion. So, without more ado, we helped ourselves
from the heap; and soon we were all four staggering along under
our loads.

The first trip down, we arrived at the beach together: Zeke's
enthusiastic cries proving irresistible. A trip or two more,
however, and my shoulders began to grate in their sockets;
while the doctor's tall figure acquired an obvious stoop. Presently,
we both threw down our baskets, protesting we could
stand it no longer. But our employers, bent, as it were, upon
getting the work out of us by a silent appeal to our moral
sense, toiled away without pretending to notice us. It was as
much as to say, “There, men, we've been boarding and lodging
ye for the last three days; and yesterday ye did nothing
earthly but eat; so stand by now, and look at us working, if
ye dare.” Thus driven to it, then, we resumed our

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employment. Yet, in spite of all we could do, we lagged behind
Zeke and Shorty, who, breathing hard, and perspiring at every
pore, toiled away without pause or cessation. I almost wickedly
wished, that they would load themselves down with one
potato too many.

Gasping as I was with my own hamper, I could not, for the
life of me, help laughing at Long Ghost. There he went:—
his long neck thrust forward, his arms twisted behind him to
form a shelf for his basket to rest on; and his stilts of legs every
once in a while giving way under him, as if his knee-joints slipped
either way.

“There! I carry no more!” he exclaimed all at once, flinging
his potatoes into the boat, where the Yankee was just then stowing
them away.

“Oh, then,” said Zeke, quite briskly, “I guess you and Paul
had better try the `barrel-machine'—come along, I'll fix ye out
in no time;” and, so saying, he waded ashore, and hurried
back to the house, bidding us follow.

Wondering what upon earth the “barrel-machine” could be,
and rather suspicious of it, we limped after. On arriving at the
house, we found him getting ready a sort of sedan-chair. It
was nothing more than an old barrel, suspended by a rope from
the middle of a stout oar. Quite an ingenious contrivance of
the Yankee's; and his proposed arrangement with regard to
mine and the doctor's shoulders, was equally so.

“There now!” said he, when every thing was ready, “there's
no back-breaking about this; you can stand right up under it,
you see: jist try it once;” and he politely rested the blade of
the oar on my comrade's right shoulder, and the other end on
mine, leaving the barrel between us.

“Jist the thing!” he added, standing off admiringly, while we
remained in this interesting attitude.

There was no help for us; with broken hearts and backs we

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[figure description] Page 283.[end figure description]

trudged back to the field; the doctor all the while saying
masses.

Upon starting with the loaded barrel, for a few paces we got
along pretty well, and were constrained to think the idea not a
bad one. But we did not long think so. In less than five minutes
we came to a dead halt, the springing and buckling of the
clumsy oar being almost unendurable.

“Let's shift ends,” cried the doctor, who did not quite relish
the blade of the stick, which was cutting into the blade of his
shoulder.

At last, by stages short and frequent, we managed to shamble
down to the beach, where we again dumped our cargo, in
something of a pet.

“Why not make the natives help?” asked Long Ghost, rubbing
his shoulder.

“Natives be dumned!” said the Yankee, “twenty on 'em
ain't worth one white man. They never was meant to work
any, them chaps; and they knows it, too, for dumned little work
any on 'em ever does.”

But notwithstanding this abuse, Zeke was at last obliged to
press a few of the bipeds into service. “Aramai!” (come here)
he shouted to several, who, reclining on a bank, had hitherto
been critical observers of our proceedings; and, among other
things, had been particularly amused by the performance with
the sedan-chair.

After making these fellows load their baskets together, the
Yankee filled his own, and then drove them before him, down
to the beach. Probably he had seen the herds of panniered
mules, driven in this way by mounted Indians, along the great
road from Callao to Lima.

The boat at last loaded, the Yankee, taking with him a couple
of natives, at once hoisted sail, and stood across the channel for
Papeetee.

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The next morning at breakfast, old Tonoi ran in, and told us
that the voyagers were returning. We hurried down to the
beach, and saw the boat gliding toward us, with a dozing
islander at the helm, and Zeke standing up in the bows, jingling
a small bag of silver, the proceeds of his cargo.

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p274-292 CHAPTER LX. WHAT THEY THOUGHT OF US IN MARTAIR.

[figure description] Page 285.[end figure description]

Several quiet days now passed away, during which, we just
worked sufficiently to sharpen our appetites; the planters leniently
exempting us from any severe toil.

Their desire to retain us became more and more evident;
which was not to be wondered at; for, beside esteeming us
from the beginning a couple of civil, good-natured fellows, who
would soon become quite at home with them, they were not
slow in perceiving, that we were far different from the common
run of rovers; and that our society was both entertaining and
instructive to a couple of solitary, illiterate men, like themselves.

In a literary point of view, indeed, they soon regarded us
with emotions of envy and wonder; and the doctor was considered
nothing short of a prodigy. The Cockney found out,
that he (the doctor) could read a book upside down, without
even so much as spelling the big words beforehand; and the
Yankee, in the twinkling of an eye, received from him the sum
total of several arithmetical items, stated aloud, with the view
of testing the extent of his mathematical lore.

Then, frequently, in discoursing upon men and things, my
long comrade employed such imposing phrases, that, upon one
occasion, they actually remained uncovered while he talked.

In short, their favorable opinion of Long Ghost in particular,
rose higher and higher every day; and they began to indulge
in all manner of dreams concerning the advantages to be derived

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[figure description] Page 286.[end figure description]

from employing so learned a laborer. Among other projects
revealed, was that of building a small craft of some forty tons, for
the purpose of trading among the neighboring islands. With a
native crew, we would then take turns cruising over the tranquil
Pacific; touching here and there, as caprice suggested, and
collecting romantic articles of commerce;—beach-de-mer, the
pearl-oyster, arrow-root, ambergris, sandal-wood, cocoa-nut oil,
and edible birdsnests.

This South Sea yachting was delightful to think of; and
straightway, the doctor announced his willingness to navigate
the future schooner clear of all shoals and reefs whatsoever.
His impudence was audacious. He enlarged upon the science
of navigation; treated us to a dissertation on Mercator's Sailing
and the Azimuth compass; and went into an inexplicable
explanation of, the Lord only knows what plan of his, for infallibly
settling the longitude.

Whenever my comrade thus gave the reins to his fine fancy,
it was a treat to listen, and therefore I never interfered; but,
with the planters, sat in mute admiration before him. This apparent
self-abasement on my part, must have been considered
as truly indicative of our respective merits; for, to my no small
concern, I quickly perceived, that in the estimate formed of
us, Long Ghost began to be rated far above myself. For aught
I knew, indeed, he might have privately thrown out a hint
concerning the difference in our respective stations aboard the
Julia; or else, the planters must have considered him some illustrious
individual, for certain inscrutable reasons, going incog.
With this idea of him, his undisguised disinclination for work
became venial; and, entertaining such views of extending their
business, they counted more upon his ultimate value to them
as a man of science, than as a mere ditcher.

Nor did the humorous doctor forbear to foster an opinion
every way so advantageous to himself; at times, for the sake

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of the joke, assuming airs of superiority over myself, which,
though laughable enough, were sometimes annoying.

To tell the plain truth, things at last came to such a pass,
that I told him, up and down, that I had no notion to put up
with his pretensions; if he were going to play the gentleman,
I was going to follow suit; and then, there would quickly be an
explosion.

At this he laughed heartily; and after some mirthful chat,
we resolved upon leaving the valley, as soon as we could do
so with a proper regard to politeness.

At supper, therefore, the same evening, the doctor hinted at
our intention.

Though much surprised, and vexed, Zeke moved not a
muscle. “Peter,” said he at last—very gravely—and after
mature deliberation, “would you like to do the cooking? It's
easy work; and you needn't do any thing else. Paul's heartier;
he can work in the field when it suits him; and before long, we'll
have ye at something more agreeable:—won't we, Shorty?”

Shorty assented.

Doubtless, the proposed arrangement was a snug one; especially
the sinecure for the doctor; but I by no means relished
the functions allotted to myself—they were too indefinite.
Nothing final, however, was agreed upon;—our intention to
leave was revealed, and that was enough for the present. But,
as we said nothing further about going, the Yankee must have
concluded, that we might yet be induced to remain. He redoubled
his endeavors to make us contented.

It was during this state of affairs, that one morning, before
breakfast, we were set to weeding in a potato-patch; and the
planters being engaged at the house, we were left to ourselves.

Now, though the pulling of weeds was considered by our
employers an easy occupation (for which reason, they had assigned
it to us), and although as a garden recreation, it may be

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pleasant enough, for those who like it—still, long persisted in,
the business becomes excessively irksome.

Nevertheless, we toiled away for some time, until the doctor,
who, from his height, was obliged to stoop at a very acute
angle, suddenly sprang upright; and, with one hand propping
his spinal column, exclaimed, “Oh, that one's joints were but
provided with holes to drop a little oil through!”

Vain as the aspiration was, for this proposed improvement
upon our species, I cordially responded thereto; for every vertebra
in my spine was articulating its sympathy.

Presently, the sun rose over the mountains, inducing that
deadly morning languor, so fatal to early exertion in a warm
climate. We could stand it no longer; but, shouldering our
hoes, moved on to the house, resolved to impose no more upon
the good-nature of the planters, by continuing one moment
longer in an occupation so extremely uncongenial.

We freely told them so. Zeke was exceedingly hurt, and
said every thing he could think of to alter our determination;
but, finding all unavailing, he very hospitably urged us not to
be in any hurry about leaving; for we might stay with him as
guests until we had time to decide upon our future movements.

We thanked him sincerely; but replied, that the following
morning, we must turn our backs upon the hills of Martair.

-- 289 --

p274-296 CHAPTER LXI. PREPARING FOR THE JOURNEY.

[figure description] Page 289.[end figure description]

During the remainder of the day we loitered about, talking
over our plans.

The doctor was all eagerness to visit Tamai, a solitary inland
village, standing upon the banks of a considerable lake of the
same name, and embosomed among groves. From Afrehitoo
you went to this place by a lonely pathway, leading through the
wildest scenery in the world. Much, too, we had heard concerning
the lake itself, which abounded in such delicious fish,
that, in former times, angling parties occasionally came over to
it, from Papeetee.

Upon its banks, moreover, grew the finest fruit of the islands,
and in their greatest perfection. The “Ve,” or Brazilian plum,
here attained the size of an orange; and the gorgeous “Arheea,”
or red apple of Tahiti, blushed with deeper dyes than in
any of the seaward valleys.

Beside all this, in Tamai dwelt the most beautiful and
unsophisticated women in the entire Society group. In
short, the village was so remote from the coast, and had been
so much less affected by recent changes than other places
that, in most things, Tahitian life was here seen, as formerly
existing in the days of young Otoo, the boy-king, in Cook's
time.

After obtaining from the planters all the information which
was needed, we decided upon penetrating to the village; and
after a temporary sojourn there, to strike the beach again, and

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journey round to Taloo, a harbor on the opposite side of the
island.

We at once put ourselves in traveling trim. Just previous
to leaving Tahiti, having found my wardrobe reduced to two
suits (frock and trowsers, both much the worse for wear), I had
quilted them together for mutual preservation (after a fashion
peculiar to sailors); engrafting a red frock upon a blue one,
and producing thereby a choice variety in the way of clothing.
This was the extent of my wardrobe. Nor was the doctor by
any means better off. His improvidence had at last driven
him to don the nautical garb; but by this time, his frock—a
light cotton one—had almost given out, and he had nothing to
replace it. Shorty very generously offered him one which
was a little less ragged; but the alms was proudly refused;
Long Ghost preferring to assume the ancient costume of Tahiti—
the “Roora.”

This garment, once worn as a festival dress, is now seldom
met with; but Captain Bob had often shown us one which he
kept as an heirloom. It was a cloak, or mantle of yellow
tappa, precisely similar to the “poncho,” worn by the South-American
Spaniards. The head being slipped through a slit in
the middle, the robe hangs about the person in ample drapery.
Tonoi obtained sufficient coarse brown tappa to make a short
mantle of this description; and in five minutes the doctor was
equipped. Zeke, eying his toga critically, reminded its proprietor,
that there were many streams to ford, and precipices to
scale, between Martair and Tamai; and if he traveled in petticoats,
he had better hold them up.

Besides other deficiencies, we were utterly shoeless. In the
free and easy Pacific, sailors seldom wear shoes; mine had
been tossed overboard the day we met the Trades; and except
in one or two tramps ashore, I had never worn any since. In
Martair, they would have been desirable; but none were to be

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[figure description] Page 291.[end figure description]

had. For the expedition we meditated, however, they were
indispensable. Zeke, being the owner of a pair of huge, dilapidated
boots, hanging from a rafter like saddle-bags, the doctor
succeeded in exchanging for them a case-knife, the last valuable
article in his possession. For myself, I made sandals from
a bullock's hide, such as are worn by the Indians in California.
They are made in a minute; the sole, rudely fashioned to the
foot, being confined across the instep by three straps of leather.

Our headgear deserves a passing word. My comrade's was
a brave old Panama hat, made of grass, almost as fine as threads
of silk; and so elastic, that upon rolling it up, it sprang into
perfect shape again. Set off by the jaunty slouch of this Spanish
sombrero, Doctor Long Ghost, in this and his Roora, looked
like a mendicant grandee.

Nor was my own appearance in an Eastern turban less distinguished.
The way I came to wear it was this. My hat
having been knocked overboard, a few days before reaching
Papeetee, I was obliged to mount an abominable wad of particolored
worsted—what sailors call a Scotch cap. Every one
knows the elasticity of knit wool; and this Caledonian headdress
crowned my temples so effectually, that the confined atmosphere
engendered was prejudicial to my curls. In vain I
tried to ventilate the cap: every gash made, seemed to heal
whole in no time. Then such a continual chafing as it kept up
in a hot sun.

Seeing my dislike to the thing, Kooloo, my worthy friend,
prevailed upon me to bestow it upon him. I did so; hinting
that a good boiling might restore the original brilliancy of the
colors.

It was then that I mounted the turban. Taking a new
Regatta frock of the doctor's, which was of a gay calico, and
winding it round my head in folds, I allowed the sleeves to
droop behind—thus forming a good defense against the sun,

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[figure description] Page 292.[end figure description]

though in a shower it was best off. The pendent sleeves adding
much to the effect, the doctor always called me the Bashaw
with Two Tails.

Thus arrayed, we were ready for Tamai; in whose green
saloons, we counted upon creating no small sensation.

-- 293 --

p274-300 CHAPTER LXII. TAMAI.

[figure description] Page 293.[end figure description]

Long before sunrise, the next morning, my sandals were laced
on, and the doctor had vaulted into Zeke's boots.

Expecting to see us again before we went to Taloo, the
planters wished us a pleasant journey; and, on parting, very
generously presented us with a pound or two of what sailors
call “plug” tobacco; telling us to cut it up into small change;
the Virginian weed being the principal circulating medium on
the island.

Tamai, we were told, was not more than three or four
leagues distant; so making allowances for a wild road, a few
hours to rest at noon, and our determination to take the journey
leisurely, we counted upon reaching the shores of the lake
some time in the flush of the evening.

For several hours we went on slowly through wood and ravine,
and over hill and precipice, seeing nothing but occasional
herds of wild cattle, and often resting; until we found ourselves,
about noon, in the very heart of the island.

It was a green, cool hollow among the mountains, into which
we at last descended with a bound. The place was gushing
with a hundred springs, and shaded over with great solemn
trees, on whose mossy boles the moisture stood in beads.
Strange to say, no traces of the bullocks ever having been here
were revealed. Nor was there a sound to be heard, nor a bird
to be seen, nor any breath of wind stirring the leaves. The utter
solitude and silence were oppressive; and after peering

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[figure description] Page 294.[end figure description]

about under the shades, and seeing nothing but ranks of dark,
motionless trunks, we hurried across the hollow, and ascended
a steep mountain opposite.

Midway up, we rested where the earth had gathered about
the roots of three palms, and thus formed a pleasant lounge,
from which we looked down upon the hollow, now one darkgreen
tuft of woodland at our feet. Here we brought forth a
small calabash of “poee,” a parting present from Tonoi. After
eating heartily, we obtained fire by two sticks, and throwing
ourselves back, puffed forth our fatigue in wreaths of smoke.
At last we fell asleep; nor did we waken till the sun had sunk
so low, that its rays darted in upon us under the foliage.

Starting up, we then continued our journey; and as we gained
the mountain top—there, to our surprise, lay the lake and
village of Tamai. We had thought it a good league off.
Where we stood, the yellow sunset was still lingering; but
over the valley below, long shadows were stealing—the rippling
green lake reflecting the houses and trees, just as they stood
along its banks. Several small canoes, moored here and there
to posts in the water, were dancing upon the waves; and
one solitary fisherman was paddling over to a grassy point. In
front of the houses, groups of natives were seen; some thrown
at full length upon the ground, and others indolently leaning
against the bamboos.

With whoop and halloo, we ran down the hills, the villagers
soon hurrying forth to see who were coming. As we drew near,
they gathered round, all curiosity to know what brought the
“karhowries” into their quiet country. The doctor contriving
to make them understand the purely social object of our visit,
they gave us a true Tahitian welcome; pointing into their
dwellings, and saying they were ours as long as we chose to
remain.

We were struck by the appearance of these people, both men

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[figure description] Page 295.[end figure description]

and women; so much more healthful than the inhabitants of the
bays. As for the young girls, they were more retiring and
modest, more tidy in their dress, and far fresher and more
beautiful than the damsels of the coast. A thousand pities,
thought I, that they should bury their charms in this nook of a
valley.

That night we abode in the house of Rartoo, a hospitable old
chief. It was right on the shore of the lake; and at supper,
we looked out through a rustling screen of foliage upon the
surface of the starlit water.

The next day we rambled about, and found a happy little
community, comparatively free from many deplorable evils to
which the rest of their countrymen are subject. Their time,
too, was more occupied. To my surprise, the manufacture of
tappa was going on in several buildings. European calicoes
were seldom seen, and not many articles of foreign origin of
any description.

The people of Tamai were nominally Christians; but being
so remote from ecclesiastical jurisdiction, their religion sat
lightly upon them. We had been told, even, that many heathenish
games and dances still secretly lingered in their valley.

Now the prospect of seeing an old-fashioned “hevar,” or
Tahitian reel, was one of the inducements which brought us
here; and so, finding Rartoo rather liberal in his religious
ideas, we disclosed our desire. At first, he demurred; and
shrugging his shoulders like a Frenchman, declared it could
not be brought about—was a dangerous matter to attempt,
and might bring all concerned into trouble. But we overcame
all this, convinced him that the thing could be done,
and a “hevar,” a genuine pagan fandango, was arranged for
that very night.

-- 296 --

p274-303 CHAPTER LXIII. A DANCE IN THE VALLEY.

[figure description] Page 296.[end figure description]

There were some ill-natured people—tell-tales—it seemed,
in Tamai; and hence there was a deal of mystery about getting
up the dance.

An hour or two before midnight, Rartoo entered the house,
and, throwing robes of tappa over us, bade us follow at a
distance behind him; and, until out of the village, hood our
faces. Keenly alive to the adventure, we obeyed. At last,
after taking a wide circuit, we came out upon the farthest
shore of the lake. It was a wide,dewy space; lighted up by a full
moon, and carpeted with a minute species of fern, growing
closely together. It swept right down to the water, showing
the village opposite, glistening among the groves.

Near the trees, on one side of the clear space, was a ruinous
pile of stones, many rods in extent; upon which had formerly
stood a temple of Oro. At present, there was nothing but a rude
hut, planted on the lowermost terrace. It seemed to have been
used as a “tappa herree;” or house for making the native cloth.

Here, we saw lights gleaming from between the bamboos,
and casting long, rod-like shadows upon the ground without.
Voices also were heard. We went up, and had a peep at the
dancers; who were getting ready for the ballet. They were
some twenty in number; waited upon by hideous old crones,
who might have been duennas. Long Ghost proposed to send
the latter packing; but Rartoo said it would never do, and so
they were permitted to remain.

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[figure description] Page 297.[end figure description]

We tried to effect an entrance at the door, which was
fastened; but, after a noisy discussion with one of the old
witches within, our guide became fidgety, and, at last, told us to
desist, or we would spoil all. He then led us off to a distance,
to await the performance; as the girls, he said, did not wish
to be recognized. He, furthermore, made us promise to remain
where we were, until all was over, and the dancers had
retired.

We waited impatiently; and, at last, they came forth. They
were arrayed in short tunics of white tappa; with garlands of
flowers on their heads. Following them, were the duennas,
who remained clustering about the house, while the girls advanced
a few paces; and, in an instant, two of them, taller
than their companions, were standing, side by side, in the
middle of a ring, formed by the clasped hands of the rest.
This movement was made in perfect silence.

Presently, the two girls join hands overhead; and, crying
out, “Ahloo! ahloo!” wave them to and fro. Upon which,
the ring begins to circle slowly; the dancers moving sideways,
with their arms a little drooping. Soon they quicken their
pace; and, at last, fly round and round: bosoms heaving, hair
streaming, flowers dropping, and every sparkling eye circling
in what seemed a line of light.

Meanwhile, the pair within are passing and repassing each
other incessantly. Inclining sideways, so that their long hair
falls far over, they glide this way and that; one foot continually
in the air, and their fingers thrown forth, and twirling in
the moonbeams.

“Ahloo! ahloo!” again cry the dance queens; and, coming
together in the middle of the ring, they once more lift up the
arch, and stand motionless.

“Ahloo! ahloo!” Every link of the circle is broken; and
the girls, deeply breathing, stand perfectly still. They pant

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[figure description] Page 298.[end figure description]

hard and fast, a moment or two; and then,just as the deep flush
is dying away from their faces, slowly recede, all round; thus
enlarging the ring.

Again the two leaders wave their hands, when the rest
pause; and now, far apart, stand in the still moonlight, like a
circle of fairies. Presently, raising a strange chant, they softly
sway themselves, gradually quickening the movement, until, at
length, for a few passionate moments, with throbbing bosoms
and glowing cheeks, they abandon themselves to all the spirit
of the dance, apparently lost to every thing around. But soon
subsiding again into the same languid measure, as before, they
become motionless; and then, reeling forward on all sides,
their eyes swimming in their heads, join in one wild chorus,
and sink into each other's arms.

Such is the Lory-Lory, I think they call it; the dance of the
backsliding girls of Tamai.

While it was going on, we had as much as we could do, to
keep the doctor from rushing forward and seizing a partner.

They would give us no more “hevars” that night; and
Rartoo fairly dragged us away to a canoe, hauled up on the
lake shore; when we reluctantly embarked, and, paddling over
to the village, arrived there in time for a good nap before
sunrise.

The next day, the doctor went about, trying to hunt up the
overnight dancers. He thought to detect them by their late
rising; but never was man more mistaken; for, on first sallying
out, the whole village was asleep, waking up in concert about
an hour after. But, in the course of the day, he came across
several, whom he at once charged with taking part in the
“hevar.” There were some prim-looking fellows standing by
(visiting elders from Afrehitoo, perhaps), and the girls looked
embarrassed; but parried the charge most skillfully.

Though soft as doves, in general, the ladies of Tamai are,

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[figure description] Page 299.[end figure description]

nevertheless, flavored with a slight tincture of what we queerly
enough call the “devil;” and they showed it on the present
occasion. For when the doctor pressed one rather hard, she
all at once turned round upon him, and, giving him a box on
the ear, told him to “hanree perrar!” (be off with himself.)

-- 300 --

p274-307 CHAPTER LXIV. MYSTERIOUS.

[figure description] Page 300.[end figure description]

There was a little old man, of a most hideous aspect, living
in Tamai, who, in a coarse mantle of tappa, went about the
village, dancing, and singing, and making faces. He followed
us about, wherever we went; and, when unobserved by others,
plucked at our garments, making frightful signs for us to go
along with him somewhere, and see something.

It was in vain, that we tried to get rid of him. Kicks and
cuffs, even, were at last resorted to; but, though he howled
like one possessed, he would not go away, but still haunted us.
At last, we conjured the natives to rid us of him; but they only
laughed; so, we were forced to endure the dispensation as well
as we could.

On the fourth night of our visit, returning home late from
paying a few calls through the village, we turned a dark corner
of trees, and came full upon our goblin friend; as usual, chattering,
and motioning with his hands. The doctor, venting a
curse, hurried forward; but, from some impulse or other, I stood
my ground, resolved to find out what this unaccountable object
wanted of us. Seeing me pause, he crept close up to me,
peered into my face, and then retreated, beckoning me to
follow; which I did.

In a few moments the village was behind us; and with my
guide in advance, I found myself in the shadow of the heights
overlooking the farther side of the valley. Here, my guide

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[figure description] Page 301.[end figure description]

paused, until I came up with him; when, side by side, and
without speaking, we ascended the hill.

Presently, we came to a wretched hut, barely distinguishable
in the shade cast by the neighboring trees. Pushing aside a
rude, sliding door, held together with thongs, the goblin signed
me to enter. Within, it looked dark as pitch; so, I gave him
to understand that he must strike a light, and go in before me.
Without replying, he disappeared in the darkness; and, after
groping about, I heard two sticks rubbing together, and directly
saw a spark. A native taper was then lighted, and I stooped,
and entered.

It was a mere kennel. Foul old mats, and broken cocoa-nut
shells, and calabashes were strown about the floor of earth; and
overhead, I caught glimpses of the stars through chinks in the
roof. Here and there, the thatch had fallen through, and hung
down in wisps.

I now told him to set about what he was going to do,
or produce whatever he had to show without delay. Looking
round fearfully, as if dreading a surprise, he commenced
turning over and over the rubbish in one corner. At last,
he clutched a calabash, stained black, and with the neck
broken off; on one side of it was a large hole. Something
seemed to be stuffed away in the vessel; and after
a deal of poking at the aperture, a musty old pair of sailor
trowsers was drawn forth; and, holding them up eagerly,
he inquired, how many pieces of tobacco I would give for
them.

Without replying, I hurried away; the old man chasing me,
and shouting as I ran, until I gained the village. Here, I dodged
him, and made my way home, resolved never to disclose so inglorious
an adventure.

To no purpose, the next morning, my comrade besought me
to enlighten him: I preserved a mysterious silence.

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[figure description] Page 302.[end figure description]

The occurrence served me a good turn, however, so long as
we abode in Tamai; for the old clothesman never afterward
troubled me; but forever haunted the doctor, who, in vain,
supplicated Heaven to be delivered from him.

-- 303 --

p274-310 CHAPTER LXV. THE HEGIRA, OR FLIGHT.

[figure description] Page 303.[end figure description]

“I SAY, doctor,” cried I, a few days after my adventure with
the goblin, as, in the absence of our host, we were one morning
lounging upon the matting in his dwelling, smoking our reed
pipes, “Tamai's a thriving place; why not settle down?”

“Faith!” said he, “not a bad idea, Paul. But do you fancy
they'll let us stay, though?”

“Why, certainly: they would be overjoyed to have a couple
of karhowrees for townsmen.”

“Gad! you're right, my pleasant fellow. Ha! ha! I'll put
up a banana-leaf as physician from London—deliver lectures
on Polynesian antiquities—teach English in five lessons, of one
hour each—establish power-looms for the manufacture of tappa—
lay out a public park in the middle of the village, and found
a festival in honor of Captain Cook!”

“But, surely, not without stopping to take breath,” observed I.

The doctor's projects, to be sure, were of a rather visionary
cast; but we seriously thought, nevertheless, of prolonging our
stay in the valley for an indefinite period; and, with this understanding,
we were turning over various plans for spending
our time pleasantly, when several women came running
into the house, and hurriedly besought us to heree! heree!
(make our escape), crying out something about the mickonarees.

Thinking that we were about to be taken up under the act
for the suppression of vagrancy, we flew out of the house, sprang

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[figure description] Page 304.[end figure description]

into a canoe before the door, and paddled with might and main
over to the opposite side of the lake.

Approaching Rartoo's dwelling, was a great crowd, among
which we perceived several natives, who, from their partly
European dress, we were certain did not reside in Tamai.

Plunging into the groves, we thanked our stars that we had
thus narrowly escaped being apprehended as runaway seamen,
and marched off to the beach. This, at least, was what we
thought we had escaped.

Having fled the village, we could not think of prowling about
its vicinity, and then returning; in doing so, we might be risking
our liberty again. We therefore determined upon journeying
back to Martair; and setting our faces thitherward, we
reached the planters' house about nightfall. They gave us a
cordial reception, and a hearty supper; and we sat up talking
until a late hour.

We now prepared to go round to Taloo, a place from which
we were not far off when at Tamai; but wishing to see as much
of the island as we could, we preferred returning to Martair,
and then going round by way of the beach.

Taloo, the only frequented harbor of Imeeo, lies on the western
side of the island, almost directly over against Martair.
Upon one shore of the bay stands the village of Partoowye, a
missionary station. In its vicinity is an extensive sugar plantation—
the best in the South Seas, perhaps—worked by a person
from Sydney.

The patrimonial property of the husband of Pomaree, and
every way a delightful retreat, Partoowye was one of the occasional
residences of the court. But at the time I write of, it
was permanently fixed there, the queen having fled thither from
Tahiti.

Partoowye, they told us, was, by no means, the place Papeetee
was. Ships seldom touched, and very few foreigners were

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[figure description] Page 305.[end figure description]

living ashore. A solitary whaler, however, was reported to be
lying in the harbor, wooding and watering, and said to be in
want of men.

All things considered, I could not help looking upon Taloo
as offering “a splendid opening” for us adventurers. To say
nothing of the facilities presented for going to sea in the whaler,
or hiring ourselves out as day laborers in the sugar plantation,
there were hopes to be entertained of being promoted to some
office of high trust and emolument, about the person of her
majesty, the queen.

Nor was this expectation altogether Quixotic. In the train
of many Polynesian princes, roving whites are frequently found:
gentlemen pensioners of state, basking in the tropical sunshine
of the court, and leading the pleasantest lives in the world.
Upon islands little visited by foreigners, the first seaman that
settles down, is generally domesticated in the family of the
head chief or king; where he frequently discharges the functions
of various offices, elsewhere filled by as many different
individuals. As historiographer, for instance, he gives the natives
some account of distant countries; as commissioner of the
arts and sciences, he instructs them in the use of the jackknife,
and the best way of shaping bits of iron hoop into spearheads;
and as interpreter to his majesty, he facilitates intercourse with
strangers; besides instructing the people generally in the uses
of the most common English phrases, civil and profane; but
oftener the latter.

These men generally marry well; often—like Hardy of
Hannamanoo—into the blood royal.

Sometimes they officiate as personal attendant, or First Lord
in Waiting, to the king. At Amboi, one of the Tonga Islands,
a vagabond Welshman bends his knee as cupbearer to his
cannibal majesty. He mixes his morning cup of “arva,” and,
with profound genuflections, presents it in a cocoa-nut bowl,

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p274-313 [figure description] Page 306.[end figure description]

richly carved. Upon another island of the same group, where
it is customary to bestow no small pains in dressing the hair—
frizzing it out by a curious process, into an enormous Pope'shead—
an old man-of-war's-man fills the post of barber to the
king. And as his majesty is not very neat, his mop is exceedingly
populous; so that, when Jack is not engaged in dressing
the head intrusted to his charge, he busies himself in gently
titillating it—a sort of skewer being actually worn about in the
patient's hair for that special purpose.

Even upon the Sandwich Islands, a low rabble of foreigners
is kept about the person of Tammahammaha, for the purpose
of ministering to his ease or enjoyment.

Billy Loon, a jolly little negro, tricked out in a soiled blue
jacket, studded all over with rusty bell-buttons, and garnished
with shabby gold lace, is the royal drummer and pounder of
the tambourine. Joe, a wooden-legged Portuguese, who lost his
leg by a whale, is violinist; and Mordecai, as he is called, a
villainous-looking scamp, going about with his cups and balls
in a side pocket, diverts the court with his jugglery. These
idle rascals receive no fixed salary, being altogether dependent
upon the casual bounty of their master. Now and then they
run up a score at the Dance Houses in Honolulu, where the
illustrious Tammahammaha III. afterward calls and settles the
bill.

A few years since, an auctioneer to his majesty, came near
being added to the retinue of state. It seems that he was the
first man who had practiced his vocation on the Sandwich Islands;
and delighted with the sport of bidding upon his wares,
the king was one of his best customers. At last he besought
the man to leave all and follow him, and he should be handsomely
provided for at court. But the auctioneer refused; and
so the ivory hammer lost the chance of being borne before him
on a velvet cushion, when the next king went to be crowned.

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But it was not as strolling players, nor as footmen out of employ,
that the doctor and myself looked forward to our approaching
introduction to the court of the Queen of Tahiti. On the
contrary, as before hinted we expected to swell the appropriations
of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts on the Civil List, by filling
some honorable office in her gift.

We were told, that to resist the usurpation of the French,
the queen was rallying about her person all the foreigners she
could. Her partiality for the English and Americans was well
known; and this was an additional ground for our anticipating
a favorable reception. Zeke had informed us, moreover, that
by the queen's counselors at Partoowye, a war of aggression
against the invaders at Papeetee had been seriously thought of.
Should this prove true, a surgeon's commission for the doctor,
and a lieutenancy for myself, were certainly counted upon in
our sanguine expectations.

Such, then, were our views, and such our hopes in projecting
a trip to Taloo. But in our most lofty aspirations, we by no
means lost sight of any minor matters which might help us to
promotion. The doctor had informed me, that he excelled in
playing the fiddle. I now suggested, that as soon as we arrived
at Partoowye, we should endeavor to borrow a violin for him;
or if this could not be done, that he should manufacture some
kind of a substitute, and thus equipped, apply for an audience
of the queen. Her well known passion for music would at once
secure his admittance; and so, under the most favorable auspices,
bring about our introduction to her notice.

“And who knows,” said my waggish comrade, throwing his
head back, and performing an imaginary air by briskly drawing
one arm across the other, “who knows, that I may not fiddle
myself into her majesty's good graces, so as to become a
sort of Rizzio to the Tahitian princess.”

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CHAPTER LXVI. HOW WE WERE TO GET TO TALOO.

[figure description] Page 308.[end figure description]

The inglorious circumstances of our somewhat premature
departure from Tamai, filled the sagacious doctor, and myself,
with sundry misgivings for the future.

Under Zeke's protection, we were secure from all impertinent
interference in our concerns, on the part of the natives.
But as friendless wanderers over the island, we ran the risk of
being apprehended as runaways, and as such, sent back to Tahiti.
The truth is, that the rewards constantly offered for the
apprehension of deserters from ships, induce some of the natives
to eye all strangers suspiciously.

A passport was therefore desirable; but such a thing had
never been heard of in Imeeo. At last, Long Ghost suggested,
that as the Yankee was well known, and much respected all
over the island, we should endeavor to obtain from him some
sort of paper, not only certifying to our having been in his employ,
but also to our not being highwaymen, kidnappers, nor
yet runaway seamen. Even written in English, a paper like
this would answer every purpose; for the unlettered natives,
standing in great awe of the document, would not dare to molest
us until acquainted with its purport. Then, if it came to
the worst, we might repair to the nearest missionary, and have
the passport explained.

Upon informing Zeke of these matters, he seemed highly flattered
with the opinion we entertained of his reputation abroad;
and he agreed to oblige us. The doctor at once offered to

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furnish him with a draught of the paper; but he refused, saying
he would write it himself. With a rooster's quill, therefore, a
bit of soiled paper, and a stout heart, he set to work. Evidently,
he was not accustomed to composition; for his literary
throes were so violent, that the doctor suggested that some sort
of a Cæsarian operation might be necessary.

The precious paper was at last finished; and a great curiosity
it was. We were much diverted with his reasons for not dating
it.

“In this here dumned climmate,” he observed, “a feller can't
keep the run of the months, no how; cause there's no seasons;
no summer and winter, to go by. One's etarnally thinkin' it's
always July, it's so pesky hot.”

A passport provided, we cast about for some means of getting
to Taloo.

The island of Imeeo is very nearly surrounded by a regular
breakwater of coral, extending within a mile or less of the shore.
The smooth canal within, furnishes the best means of communication
with the different settlements; all of which, with the
exception of Tamai, are right upon the water. And so indolent
are the Imeeose, that they think nothing of going twenty
or thirty miles round the island in a canoe, in order to reach a
place not a quarter of that distance by land. But as hinted before,
the fear of the bullocks has something to do with this.

The idea of journeying in a canoe struck our fancy quite
pleasantly; and we at once set about chartering one, if possible.
But none could we obtain. For not only did we have
nothing to pay for hiring one, but we could not expect to have
it loaned; inasmuch as the good-natured owner would, in all
probability, have to walk along the beach as we paddled, in
order to bring back his property when we had no further use
for it.

At last, it was decided to commence our journey on foot;

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trusting that we would soon fall in with a canoe going our way,
in which we might take passage.

The planters said we would find no beaten path:—all we
had to do was to follow the beach; and however inviting it
might look inland, on no account must we stray from it. In
short, the longest way round was the nearest way to Taloo.
At intervals, there were little hamlets along the shore, besides
lonely fishermen's huts here and there, where we could get
plenty to eat without pay; so there was no necessity to lay in
any store.

Intending to be off before sunrise the next morning, so as to
have the benefit of the coolest part of the day, we bade our kind
hosts farewell, overnight; and then, repairing to the beach, we
lanched our floating pallet, and slept away merrily till dawn.

-- 311 --

p274-318 CHAPTER LXVII. THE JOURNEY ROUND THE BEACH.

[figure description] Page 311.[end figure description]

It was on the fourth day of the first month of the Hegira, or
Flight from Tamai (we now reckoned our time thus), that, rising
bright and early, we were up and away out of the valley of
Martair, before the fishermen even were stirring.

It was the earliest dawn. The morning only showed itself
along the lower edge of a bank of purple clouds, pierced by the
misty peaks of Tahiti. The tropical day seemed too languid
to rise. Sometimes, starting fitfully, it decked the clouds with
faint edgings of pink and gray, which, fading away, left all dim
again. Anon, it threw out thin, pale rays, growing lighter and
lighter, until at last, the golden morning sprang out of the East
with a bound—darting its bright beams hither and thither,
higher and higher, and sending them, broadcast, over the face of
the heavens.

All balmy from the groves of Tahiti, came an indolent air,
cooled by its transit over the waters; and grateful under foot,
was the damp and slightly yielding beach, from which the waves
seemed just retired.

The doctor was in famous spirits; removing his Roora, he
went splashing into the sea; and, after swimming a few yards,
waded ashore, hopping, skipping, and jumping along the beach;
but very careful to cut all his capers in the direction of our
journey.

Say what they will of the glowing independence one feels in

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the saddle, give me the first morning flush of your cheery pedestrian!

Thus exhilarated, we went on, as light-hearted and care-free,
as we could wish.

And here, I can not refrain from lauding the very superior inducements
which most intertropical countries afford, not only
to mere rovers like ourselves, but to penniless people, generally.
In these genial regions, one's wants are naturally diminished;
and those which remain are easily gratified: fuel, house-shelter,
and, if you please, clothing, may be entirely dispensed with.

How different, our hard northern latitudes! Alas! the lot
of a “poor devil,” twenty degrees north of the tropic of Cancer,
is indeed pitiable.

At last, the beach contracted to hardly a yard's width, and
the dense thicket almost dipped into the sea. In place of the
smooth sand, too, we had sharp fragments of broken coral,
which made traveling exceedingly unpleasant. “Lord! my
foot!” roared the doctor, fetching it up for inspection, with a
galvanic fling of the limb. A sharp splinter had thrust itself
into the flesh, through a hole in his boot. My sandals were
worse yet; their soles taking a sort of fossil impression of every
thing trod upon.

Turning round a bold sweep of the beach, we came upon a
piece of fine, open ground, with a fisherman's dwelling in the
distance, crowning a knoll which rolled off into the water.

The hut proved to be a low, rude erection, very recently
thrown up; for the bamboos were still green as grass, and the
thatching, fresh and fragrant as meadow hay. It was open upon
three sides; so that, upon drawing near, the domestic arrangements
within were in plain sight. No one was stirring; and
nothing was to be seen but a clumsy old chest of native workmanship,
a few calabashes, and bundles of tappa hanging against
a post; and a heap of something, we knew not what, in a dark

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[figure description] Page 313.[end figure description]

corner. Upon close inspection, the doctor discovered it to be
a loving old couple, locked in each other's arms, and rolled
together in a tappa mantle.

“Halloa! Darby!” he cried, shaking the one with a beard.
But Darby heeded him not; though Joan, a wrinkled old body,
started up in affright, and yelled aloud. Neither of us attempting
to gag her, she presently became quiet; and after staring
hard, and asking some unintelligible questions, she proceeded
to rouse her still slumbering mate.

What ailed him, we could not tell; but there was no waking
him. Equally in vain were all his dear spouse's cuffs, pinches,
and other endearments; he lay like a log, face up, and snoring
away like a cavalry trumpeter.

“Here, my good woman,” said Long Ghost, “just let me
try;” and, taking the patient right by his nose, he so lifted him
bodily, into a sitting position, and held him there until his eyes
opened. When this event came to pass, Darby looked round
like one stupefied; and then, springing to his feet, backed away
into a corner, from which place, we became the objects of his
earnest and respectful attention.

“Permit me, my dear Darby, to introduce to you my esteemed
friend and comrade, Paul,” said the doctor, gallanting
me up with all the grimace and flourish imaginable. Upon
this, Darby began to recover his faculties, and surprised
us not a little, by talking a few words of English. So far as
could be understood, they were expressive of his having been
aware, that there were two “karhowrees” in the neighborhood;
that he was glad to see us, and would have something for us to
eat in no time.

How he came by his English, was explained to us before we
left. Some time previous, he had been a denizen of Papeetee,
where the native language is broidered over with the most
classic sailor phrases. He seemed to be quite proud of his

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[figure description] Page 314.[end figure description]

residence there; and alluded to it, in the same significant way, in
which a provincial informs you, that in his time he has resided
in the capital. The old fellow was disposed to be garrulous;
but being sharp-set, we told him to get breakfast; after which
we would hear his anecdotes. While employed among the
calabashes, the strange, antiquated fondness between these
old semi-savages was really amusing. I made no doubt, that
they were saying to each other, “yes, my love”—“no, my life,”
just in the same way that some young couples do, at home.

They gave us a hearty meal; and while we were discussing
its merits, they assured us, over and over again, that they expected
nothing in return for their attentions; more: we were
at liberty to stay as long as we pleased; and as long as we did
stay, their house and every thing they had, was no longer theirs,
but ours; still more: they themselves were our slaves—the old
lady, to a degree that was altogether superfluous. This, now,
is Tahitian hospitality! Self-immolation upon one's own hearth-stone
for the benefit of the guest.

The Polynesians carry their hospitality to an amazing extent.
Let a native of Waiurar, the westernmost part of Tahiti, make
his appearance as a traveler at Partoowye, the most easternly
village of Imeeo; though a perfect stranger, the inhabitants on
all sides accost him at their doorways, inviting him to enter, and
make himself at home. But the traveler passes on, examining
every house attentively; until at last, he pauses before one
which suits him, and then exclaiming, “ah, ena maitai” (this
one will do, I think), he steps in, and makes himself perfectly
at ease; flinging himself upon the mats, and very probably calling
for a nice young cocoa-nut, and a piece of toasted bread-fruit,
sliced thin, and done brown.

Curious to relate, however, should a stranger carrying it thus
bravely, be afterward discovered to be without a house of his
own, why, he may thenceforth go a-begging for his lodgings.

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The “karhowrees,” or white men, are exceptions to this rule.
Thus is it precisely as in civilized countries; where those who
have houses and lands, are incessantly bored to death with invitations
to come and live in other people's houses; while many
a poor gentleman who inks the seams of his coat, and to whom
the like invitation would be really acceptable, may go and sue
for it. But to the credit of the ancient Tahitians, it should here
be observed, that this blemish upon their hospitality is only of
recent origin, and was wholly unknown in old times. So told
me, Captain Bob.

In Polynesia, it is esteemed “a great hit,” if a man succeed
in marrying into a family, to which the best part of the community
is related (Heaven knows it is otherwise with us). The
reason is, that when he goes a-traveling, the greater number of
houses are the more completely at his service.

Receiving a paternal benediction from old Darby and Joan,
we continued our journey; resolved to stop at the very next
place of attraction which offered.

Nor did we long stroll for it. A fine walk along a beach of
shells, and we came to a spot, where, with trees here and there,
the land was all meadow, sloping away to the water, which
stirred a sedgy growth of reeds bordering its margin. Close
by, was a little cove, walled in with coral, where a fleet of
canoes was dancing up and down. A few paces distant, on a
natural terrace overlooking the sea, were several native dwellings,
newly thatched, and peeping into view out of the foliage,
like summer-houses.

As we drew near, forth came a burst of voices; and presently,
three gay girls, overflowing with life, health, and youth; and
full of spirits and mischief. One was arrayed in a flaunting
robe of calico; and her long black hair was braided behind
in two immense tresses, joined together at the ends, and
wreathed with the green tendrils of a vine. From her

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[figure description] Page 316.[end figure description]

self-possessed and forward air, I fancied she might be some young
lady from Papeetee, on a visit to her country relations. Her
companions wore mere slips of cotton cloth; their hair was disheveled;
and though very pretty, they betrayed the reserve and
embarrassment, characteristic of the provinces.

The little gipsy first mentioned, ran up to me with great
cordiality; and giving the Tahitian salutation, opened upon me
such a fire of questions, that there was no understanding, much
less answering them. But our hearty welcome to Loohooloo,
as she called the hamlet, was made plain enough. Meanwhile,
Doctor Long Ghost gallantly presented an arm to each of the
other young ladies; which, at first, they knew not what to make
of; but at last, taking it for some kind of joke, accepted the
civility.

The names of these three damsels were at once made known
by themselves; and being so exceedingly romantic, I can not
forbear particularizing them. Upon my comrade's arms, then,
were hanging Night and Morning, in the persons of Farnowar,
or the Day-Born, and Farnoopoo, or the Night-Born. She
with the tresses, was very appropriately styled Marhar-Rarrar,
the Wakeful, or Bright-Eyed.

By this time, the houses were emptied of the rest of their
inmates—a few old men and women, and several strapping
young fellows rubbing their eyes and yawning. All crowded
round, putting questions as to whence we came. Upon being
informed of our acquaintance with Zeke, they were delighted;
and one of them recognized the boots worn by the doctor.
“Keekee (Zeke) maitai,” they cried, “nuee nuee hanna hanna
portarto”—(makes plenty of potatoes).

There was now a little friendly altercation, as to who should
have the honor of entertaining the strangers. At last, a tall
old gentleman, by name Marharvai, with a bald head and white
beard, took us each by the hand, and led us into his dwelling.

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Once inside, Marharvai, pointing about with his staff, was so
obsequious in assuring us that his house was ours, that Long
Ghost suggested, he might as well hand over the deed.

It was drawing near noon; so after a light lunch of roasted
bread-fruit, a few whiffs of a pipe, and some lively chatting, our
host admonished the company to lie down, and take the everlasting
siesta. We complied; and had a social nap all round.

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p274-325 CHAPTER LXVIII. A DINNER-PARTY IN IMEEO.

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It was just in the middle of the merry, mellow afternoon,
that they ushered us to dinner, underneath a green shelter of
palm boughs; open all round, and so low at the eaves, that we
stooped to enter.

Within, the ground was strewn over with aromatic ferns—
called “nahee”—freshly gathered; which, stirred under foot,
diffused the sweetest odor. On one side was a row of yellow
mats, inwrought with fibres of bark, stained a bright red.
Here, seated after the fashion of the Turk, we looked out, over
a verdant bank, upon the mild, blue, endless Pacific. So far
round had we skirted the island, that the view of Tahiti was
now intercepted.

Upon the ferns before us, were laid several layers of broad,
thick “pooroo” leaves; lapping over, one upon the other.
And upon these were placed, side by side, newly plucked
banana leaves, at least two yards in length, and very wide;
the stalks were withdrawn, so as to make them lie flat. This
green cloth was set out and garnished, in the manner following:—

First, a number of “pooroo” leaves, by way of plates, were
ranged along on one side; and by each was a rustic nut-bowl,
half-filled with sea-water, and a Tahitian roll, or small bread-fruit,
roasted brown. An immense flat calabash, placed in the
centre, was heaped up with numberless small packages of
moist, steaming leaves: in each was a small fish, baked in the

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earth, and done to a turn. This pyramid of a dish, was flanked
on either side by an ornamental calabash. One was brimming
with the golden-hued “poee,” or pudding, made from the red
plantain of the mountains: the other was stacked up with
cakes of the Indian turnip, previously macerated in a mortar,
kneaded with the milk of the cocoa-nut, and then baked. In
the spaces between the three dishes, were piled young cocoa-nuts,
stripped of their husks. Their eyes had been opened and
enlarged; so that each was a ready-charged goblet.

There was a sort of side-cloth in one corner, upon which, in
bright, buff jackets, lay the fattest of bananas; “avees,” red-ripe;
guavas, with the shadows of their crimson pulp flushing
through a transparent skin, and almost coming and going there
like blushes; oranges, tinged, here and there, berry-brown;
and great, jolly melons, which rolled about in very portliness.
Such a heap! All ruddy, ripe, and round—bursting with the
good cheer of the tropical soil, from which they sprang!

“A land of orchards!” cried the doctor, in a rapture; and
he snatched a morsel from a sort of fruit of which gentlemen
of the sanguine temperament are remarkably fond; namely,
the ripe cherry lips of Miss Day-Born, who stood looking on.

Marharvai allotted seats to his guests; and the meal began.
Thinking that his hospitality needed some acknowledgment, I
rose, and pledged him in the vegetable wine of the cocoa-nut;
merely repeating the ordinary salutation, “Yar onor boyoee.”
Sensible that some compliment, after the fashion of white
men, was paid him, with a smile, and a courteous flourish
of the hand, he bade me be seated. No people, however
refined, are more easy and graceful in their manners than the
Imeeose.

The doctor, sitting next our host, now came under his
special protection. Laying before his guest one of the packages
of fish, Marharvai opened it; and commended its contents

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to his particular regards. But my comrade was one of those,
who, on convivial occasions, can always take care of themselves.
He ate an indefinite number of “Pehee Lee Lees” (small
fish), his own and next neighbor's bread-fruit; and helped
himself, to right and left, with all the ease of an accomplished
diner-out.

“Paul,” said he, at last, “you don't seem to be getting along;
why don't you try the pepper sauce?” and, by way of example,
he steeped a morsel of food into his nutful of sea-water.
On following suit, I found it quite piquant, though
rather bitter; but, on the whole, a capital substitute for salt.
The Imeeose invariably use sea-water in this way, deeming it
quite a treat; and considering that their country is surrounded
by an ocean of catsup, the luxury can not be deemed an expensive
one.

The fish were delicious; the manner of cooking them in the
ground, preserving all the juices, and rendering them exceedingly
sweet and tender. The plantain pudding was almost
cloying; the cakes of Indian turnip, quite palatable; and the
roasted bread-fruit, crisp as toast.

During the meal, a native lad walked round and round the
party; carrying a long staff of bamboo. This he occasionally
tapped upon the cloth, before each guest; when a white clotted
substance dropped forth, with a savor not unlike that of a
curd. This proved to be “Lownee,” an excellent relish, prepared
from the grated meat of ripe cocoa-nuts, moistened with
cocoa-nut milk and salt water, and kept perfectly tight, until a
little past the saccharine stage of fermentation.

Throughout the repast there was much lively chatting among
the islanders, in which their conversational powers quite exceeded
ours. The young ladies, too, showed themselves very
expert in the use of their tongues, and contributed much to the
gayety which prevailed.

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Nor did these lively nymphs suffer the meal to languish; for
upon the doctor's throwing himself back, with an air of much
satisfaction, they sprang to their feet, and pelted him with
oranges and guavas. This, at last, put an end to the entertainment.

By a hundred whimsical oddities, my long friend became
a great favorite with these people; and they bestowed upon
him a long, comical title, expressive of his lank figure and
Roora combined. The latter, by the by, never failed to excite
the remark of every body we encountered.

The giving of nicknames is quite a passion with the people
of Tahiti and Imeeo. No one, with any peculiarity, whether
of person or temper, is exempt; not even strangers.

A pompous captain of a man-of-war, visiting Tahiti for the
second time, discovered that, among the natives, he went by the
dignified title of “Atee Poee”—literally, Poee Head, or Pudding
Head. Nor is the highest rank among themselves any
protection. The first husband of the present queen was commonly
known in the court circles, as “Pot Belly.” He carried
the greater part of his person before him, to be sure; and so
did the gentlemanly George IV.—but what a title for a king
consort!

Even “Pomaree” itself, the royal patronymic, was, originally,
a mere nickname; and literally signifies, one talking
through his nose. The first monarch of that name, being on
a war party, and sleeping overnight among the mountains,
awoke one morning with a cold in his head; and some wag
of a courtier, had no more manners than to vulgarize him
thus.

How different from the volatile Polynesian in this, as in all
other respects, is our grave and decorous North American
Indian. While the former bestows a name, in accordance
with some humorous or ignoble trait, the latter seizes upon

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what is deemed the most exalted or warlike: and hence,
among the red tribes, we have the truly patrician appellations
of “White Eagles,” “Young Oaks,” “Fiery Eyes,” and
“Bended Bows.”

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p274-330 CHAPTER LXIX. THE COCOA-PALM.

[figure description] Page 323.[end figure description]

While the doctor and the natives were taking a digestive
nap after dinner, I strolled forth to have a peep at the country,
which could produce so generous a meal.

To my surprise, a fine strip of land in the vicinity of the hamlet,
and protected seaward by a grove of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit
trees, was under high cultivation. Sweet potatoes, Indian
turnips, and yams were growing; also melons, a few pine-apples,
and other fruits. Still more pleasing was the sight, of
young bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees set out with great care,
as if, for once, the improvident Polynesian had thought of his
posterity. But this was the only instance of native thrift which
ever came under my observation. For, in all my rambles over
Tahiti and Imeeo, nothing so much struck me as the comparative
scarcity of these trees in many places where they ought to
abound. Entire valleys, like Martair, of inexhaustible fertility,
are abandoned to all the rankness of untamed vegetation. Alluvial
flats bordering the sea, and watered by streams from the
mountains, are overgrown with a wild, scrub guava-bush, introduced
by foreigners, and which spreads with such fatal rapidity,
that the natives, standing still while it grows, anticipate its
covering the entire island. Even tracts of clear land, which,
with so little pains, might be made to wave with orchards, lie
wholly neglected.

When I considered their unequaled soil and climate, thus

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unaccountably slighted, I often turned in amazement upon the
natives about Papeetee; some of whom all but starve in their
gardens run to waste. Upon other islands which I have
visited, of similar fertility, and wholly unreclaimed from their
first discovered condition, no spectacle of this sort was presented.

The high estimation in which many of their fruit-trees are
held by the Tahitians and Imeeose—their beauty in the landscape—
their manifold uses, and the facility with which they are
propagated, are considerations which render the remissness
alluded to still more unaccountable. The cocoa-palm is as an
example; a tree by far the most important production of Nature
in the Tropics. To the Polynesian, it is emphatically the
Tree of Life; transcending even the bread-fruit in the multifarious
uses to which it is applied.

Its very aspect is imposing. Asserting its supremacy by an
erect and lofty bearing, it may be said to compare with other
trees, as man with inferior creatures.

The blessings it confers are incalculable. Year after year,
the islander reposes beneath its shade, both eating and drinking
of its fruit; he thatches his hut with its boughs, and weaves
them into baskets to carry his food; he cools himself with a
fan platted from the young leaflets, and shields his head from
the sun by a bonnet of the leaves; sometimes he clothes himself
with the cloth-like substance which wraps round the base
of the stalks, whose elastic rods, strung with filberts, are used
as a taper; the larger nuts, thinned and polished, furnish him
with a beautiful goblet: the smaller ones, with bowls for his
pipes; the dry husks kindle his fires; their fibres are twisted
into fishing-lines and cords for his canoes; he heals his wounds
with a balsam compounded from the juice of the nut; and
with the oil extracted from its meat, embalms the bodies of the
dead.

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[figure description] Page 325.[end figure description]

The noble trunk itself is far from being valueless. Sawn into
posts, it upholds the islander's dwelling; converted into charcoal,
it cooks his food; and supported on blocks of stone, rails in his
lands. He impels his canoe through the water with a paddle of
the wood, and goes to battle with clubs and spears of the same
hard material.

In pagan Tahiti a cocoa-nut branch was the symbol of regal
authority. Laid upon the sacrifice in the temple, it made the
offering sacred; and with it, the priests chastised and put to
flight the evil spirits which assailed them. The supreme majesty
of Oro, the great god of their mythology, was declared in
the cocoa-nut log from which his image was rudely carved.
Upon one of the Tonga Islands, there stands a living tree, revered
itself as a deity. Even upon the Sandwich Islands, the
cocoa-palm retains all its ancient reputation; the people there
having thought of adopting it as the national emblem.

The cocoa-nut is planted as follows: Selecting a suitable
place, you drop into the ground a fully ripe nut, and leave it.
In a few days, a thin, lance-like shoot forces itself through a
minute hole in the shell, pierces the husk, and soon unfolds
three pale-green leaves in the air; while originating, in the
same soft white sponge which now completely fills the nut, a
pair of fibrous roots, pushing away the stoppers which close two
holes in an opposite direction, penetrate the shell, and strike
vertically into the ground. A day or two more, and the shell
and husk, which, in the last and germinating stage of the nut,
are so hard that a knife will scarcely make any impression,
spontaneously burst by some force within; and, henceforth, the
hardy young plant thrives apace; and needing no culture, pruning,
or attention of any sort, rapidly advances to maturity. In
four or five years it bears; in twice as many more, it begins
to lifts its head among the groves, where, waxing strong, it
flourishes for near a century.

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Thus, as some voyager has said, the man who but drops one
of these nuts into the ground, may be said to confer a greater,
and more certain benefit upon himself and posterity, than many
a life's toil in less genial climes.

The fruitfulness of the tree is remarkable. As long as it
lives, it bears; and without intermission. Two hundred nuts,
besides innumerable white blossoms of others, may be seen
upon it at one time; and though a whole year is required to
bring any one of them to the germinating point, no two, perhaps,
are at one time in precisely the same stage of growth.

The tree delights in a maritime situation. In its greatest
perfection, it is perhaps found right on the sea-shore, where its
roots are actually washed. But such instances are only met
with upon islands where the swell of the sea is prevented from
breaking on the beach by an encircling reef. No saline flavor is
perceptible in the nut produced in such a place. Although it
bears in any soil, whether upland or bottom, it does not flourish
vigorously inland; and I have frequently observed, that
when met with far up the valleys, its tall stem inclines seaward,
as if pining after a more genial region.

It is a curious fact, that if you deprive the cocoa-nut tree of
the verdant tuft at its head, it dies at once; and if allowed to
stand thus, the trunk, which, when alive, is encased in so hard
a bark, as to be almost impervious to a bullet, molders away,
and, in an incredibly short period, becomes dust. This is,
perhaps, partly owing to the peculiar constitution of the trunk,
a mere cylinder of minute hollow reeds, closely packed, and
very hard; but when exposed at top, peculiarly fitted to convey
moisture and decay through the entire stem.

The finest orchard of cocoa-palms I know, and the only
plantation of them I ever saw at the islands, is one that stands
right upon the southern shore of Papeetee Bay. They were
set out by the first Pomaree, almost half-a-century ago; and

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the soil being especially adapted to their growth, the noble
trees now form a magnificent grove, nearly a mile in extent.
No other plant, scarcely a bush, is to be seen within its precincts.
The Broom Road passes through its entire length.

At noonday, this grove is one of the most beautiful, serene,
witching places that ever was seen. High overhead, are ranges
of green rustling arches; through which the sun's rays come
down to you in sparkles. You seem to be wandering through
illimitable halls of pillars; everywhere you catch glimpses of
stately aisles, intersecting each other at all points. A strange
silence, too, reigns far and near; the air, flushed with the
mellow stillness of a sunset.

But after the long morning calms, the sea-breeze comes in;
and creeping over the tops of these thousand trees, they nod
their plumes. Soon the breeze freshens; and you hear the
branches brushing against each other; and the flexible trunks
begin to sway. Toward evening, the whole grove is rocking
to and fro; and the traveler on the Broom Road is startled by
the frequent falling of the nuts, snapped from their brittle
stems. They come flying through the air, ringing like jugglers'
balls; and often bound along the ground for many rods.

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p274-335 CHAPTER LXX. LIFE AT LOOHOOLOO.

[figure description] Page 328.[end figure description]

Finding the society at Loohooloo very pleasant, the young
ladies, in particular, being extremely sociable; and, moreover,
in love with the famous good cheer of old Marharvai, we acquiesced
in an invitation of his, to tarry a few days longer.
We might then, he said, join a small canoe party, which was
going to a place a league or two distant. So averse to all
exertion are these people, that they really thought the prospect
of thus getting rid of a few miles' walking, would prevail with
us, even if there were no other inducement.

The people of the hamlet, as we soon discovered, formed a
snug little community of cousins; of which our host seemed
the head. Marharvai, in truth, was a petty chief, who owned
the neighboring lands. And as the wealthy, in most cases,
rejoice in a numerous kindred, the family footing upon which
every body visited him, was, perhaps, ascribable to the fact, of
his being the lord of the manor. Like Captain Bob, he was, in
some things, a gentleman of the old school—a stickler for the
customs of a past and pagan age.

Nowhere else, except in Tamai, did we find the manners
of the natives less vitiated by recent changes. The old-fashioned
Tahitian dinner they gave us on the day of our
arrival, was a fair sample of their general mode of living.

Our time passed delightfully. The doctor went his way, and
I mine. With a pleasant companion, he was forever strolling

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inland, ostensibly to collect botanical specimens; while I, for
the most part, kept near the sea; sometimes taking the girls an
aquatic excursion in a canoe.

Often we went fishing; not dozing over stupid hooks and
lines, but leaping right into the water, and chasing our prey
over the coral rocks, spear in hand.

Spearing fish is glorious sport. The Imeeose, all round the
island, catch them in no other way. The smooth shallows between
the reef and the shore, and, at low water, the reef itself,
being admirably adapted to this mode of capturing them. At
almost any time of the day—save ever the sacred hour of noon—
you may see the fish-hunters pursuing their sport; with loud
halloos, brandishing their spears, and splashing through the
water in all directions. Sometimes a solitary native is seen,
far out upon a lonely shallow, wading slowly along, with eye
intent and poised spear.

But the best sport of all, is going out upon the great reef itself,
by torch-light. The natives follow this recreation with as
much spirit as a gentleman of England does the chase; and
take full as much delight in it.

The torch is nothing more than a bunch of dry reeds, bound
firmly together: the spear, a long, light pole, with an iron
head, on one side barbed.

I shall never forget the night, that old Marharvai and the
rest of us, paddling off to the reef, leaped at midnight upon the
coral ledges with waving torches and spears. We were more
than a mile from the land; the sullen ocean, thundering upon
the outside of the rocks, dashed the spray in our faces, almost
extinguishing the flambeaux; and, far as the eye could reach,
the darkness of sky and water was streaked with a long, misty
line of foam, marking the course of the coral barrier. The wild
fishermen, flourishing their weapons, and yelling like so many
demons to scare their prey, sprang from ledge to ledge, and

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[figure description] Page 330.[end figure description]

sometimes darted their spears in the very midst of the
breakers.

But fish-spearing was not the only sport we had at Loohooloo.
Right on the beach was a mighty old cocoa-nut tree, the
roots of which had been underwashed by the waves, so that the
trunk inclined far over its base. From the tuft of the tree, a
stout cord of bark depended, the end of which swept the water
several yards from the shore. This was a Tahitian swing. A
native lad seizes hold of the cord, and, after swinging to and fro
quite leisurely, all at once sends himself fifty or sixty feet from
the water, rushing through the air like a rocket. I doubt
whether any of our rope-dancers would attempt the feat. For
my own part, I had neither head nor heart for it; so, after
sending a lad aloft with an additional cord, by way of security,
I constructed a large basket of green boughs, in which I and
some particular friends of mine, used to swing over sea and
land by the hour

-- 331 --

p274-338 CHAPTER LXXI. WE START FOR TALOO.

[figure description] Page 331.[end figure description]

Bright was the morning, and brighter still the smiles of the
young ladies who accompanied us, when we sprang into a sort
of family canoe—wide and roomy—and bade adieu to the hospitable
Marharvai and his tenantry. As we paddled away, they
stood upon the beach, waving their hands, and crying out,
“aroha! aroha!” (farewell! farewell!) as long as we were
within hearing.

Very sad at parting with them, we endeavored, nevertheless,
to console ourselves in the society of our fellow-passengers.
Among these were two old ladies; but as they said nothing
to us, we will say nothing about them; nor any thing about
the old men who managed the canoe. But of the three mischievous,
dark-eyed young witches, who lounged in the stern
of that comfortable old island gondola, I have a great deal to
say.

In the first place, one of them was Marhar-Rarrar, the Bright-Eyed;
and, in the second place, neither she nor the romps, her
companions, ever dreamed of taking the voyage, until the doctor
and myself announced our intention; their going along was
nothing more than a madcap frolic; in short, they were a
parcel of wicked hoydens, bent on mischief, who laughed in
your face when you looked sentimental, and only tolerated your
company when making merry at your expense.

Something or other about us was perpetually awaking their
mirth. Attributing this to his own remarkable figure, the doctor

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[figure description] Page 332.[end figure description]

increased their enjoyment, by assuming the part of a Merry Andrew.
Yet his cap and bells never jingled but to some tune;
and while playing the Tom-fool, I more than suspected that he
was trying to play the rake. At home, it is deemed auspicious
to go a-wooing in epaulets; but among the Polynesians, your
best dress in courting is motley.

A fresh breeze springing up, we set our sail of matting, and
glided along as tranquilly as if floating upon an inland stream;
the white reef on one hand, and the green shore on the other.

Soon, as we turned a headland, we encountered another
canoe, paddling with might and main in an opposite direction;
the strangers shouting to each other, and a tall fellow, in the
bow, dancing up and down like a crazy man. They shot by us
like an arrow, though our fellow-voyagers shouted again and
again, for them to cease paddling.

According to the natives, this was a kind of royal mail-canoe,
carrying a message from the queen to her friends in a distant
part of the island.

Passing several shady bowers, which looked quite inviting,
we proposed touching, and diversifying the monotony of a sea-voyage
by a stroll ashore. So, forcing our canoe among the
bushes, behind a decayed palm, lying partly in the water, we
left the old folks to take a nap in the shade, and gallanted the
others among the trees, which were here trellised with vines and
creeping shrubs.

In the early part of the afternoon, we drew near the place to
which the party were going. It was a solitary house, inhabited
by four or five old women, who, when we entered, were
gathered in a circle about the mats, eating poee from a cracked
calabash. They seemed delighted at seeing our companions,
but rather drew up when introduced to ourselves. Eying us
distrustfully, they whispered to know who we were. The
answers they received were not satisfactory; for they treated

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[figure description] Page 333.[end figure description]

us with marked coolness and reserve, and seemed desirous of
breaking off our acquaintance with the girls. Unwilling, therefore,
to stay where our company was disagreeable, we resolved
to depart, without even eating a meal.

Informed of this, Marhar-Rarrar and her companions evinced
the most lively concern; and equally unmindful of their former
spirits, and the remonstrances of the old ladies, broke forth into
sobs and lamentations, which were not to be withstood. We
agreed, therefore, to tarry until they left for home; which would
be at the “Aheharar,” or Falling of the Sun; in other words, at
sunset.

When the hour arrived, after much leave-taking, we saw
them safely embarked. As the canoe turned a bluff, they
seized the paddles from the hands of the old men, and waved
them silently in the air. This was meant for a touching farewell,
as the paddle is only waved thus, when the parties separating,
never more expect to meet.

We now continued our journey; and following the beach,
soon came to a level and lofty overhanging bank, which, planted
here and there with trees, took a broad sweep round a considerable
part of the island. A fine pathway skirted the edge of
the bank; and often we paused to admire the scenery. The
evening was still and fair, even for so heavenly a climate; and
all round, far as the eye could reach, was the blending blue sky
and ocean.

As we went on, the reef-belt still accompanied us; turning
as we turned, and thundering its distant bass upon the ear, like
the unbroken roar of a cataract. Dashing forever against their
coral rampart, the breakers looked, in the distance, like a line of
rearing white chargers, reined in, tossing their white manes,
and bridling with foam.

These great natural breakwaters are admirably designed
for the protection of the land. Nearly all the Society Islands

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[figure description] Page 334.[end figure description]

are defended by them. Were the vast swells of the Pacific to
break against the soft alluvial bottoms which in many places
border the sea, the soil would soon be washed away, and the
natives be thus deprived of their most productive lands. As it
is, the banks of no rivulet are firmer.

But the coral barriers answer another purpose. They form
all the harbors of this group, including the twenty-four round
about the shores of Tahiti. Curiously enough, the openings in
the reefs, by which alone vessels enter to their anchorage, are
invariably opposite the mouths of running streams: an advantage
fully appreciated by the mariner who touches for the purpose
of watering his ship.

It is said, that the fresh water of the land, mixing with the
salts held in solution by the sea, so acts upon the latter, as to
resist the formation of the coral; and hence the breaks. Here
and there, these openings are sentineled, as it were, by little
fairy islets, green as emerald, and waving with palms. Strangely
and beautifully diversifying the long line of breakers, no objects
can strike the fancy more vividly. Pomaree II., with a taste
in watering-places truly Tahitian, selected one of them as a
royal retreat. We passed it on our journey.

Omitting several further adventures which befell us after
leaving the party from Loohooloo, we must now hurry on, to
relate what happened just before reaching the place of our
destination.

-- 335 --

p274-342 CHAPTER LXXII. A DEALER IN THE CONTRABAND.

[figure description] Page 335.[end figure description]

It must have been at least the tenth day, reckoning from the
Hegira, that we found ourselves the guests of Varvy, an old
hermit of an islander, who kept house by himself, perhaps a
couple of leagues from Taloo.

A stone's cast from the beach there was a fantastic rock, moss-grown,
and deep in a dell. It was insulated by a shallow brook,
which, dividing its waters, flowed on both sides, until united
below. Twisting its roots round the rock, a gnarled “Aoa”
spread itself overhead in a wilderness of foliage; the elastic
branch-roots depending from the larger boughs, insinuating
themselves into every cleft, thus forming supports to the parent
stem. In some places, these pendulous branches, half-grown,
had not yet reached the rock; swinging their loose fibrous ends
in the air like whiplashes.

Varvy's hut, a mere coop of bamboos, was perched upon a
level part of the rock, the ridge-pole resting at one end in a
crotch of the “Aoa,” and the other, propped by a forked bough
planted in a fissure.

Notwithstanding our cries as we drew near, the first hint the
old hermit received of our approach, was the doctor's stepping
up and touching his shoulder, as he was kneeling over on a stone,
cleaning fish in the brook. He leaped up, and stared at us.
But with a variety of uncouth gestures, he soon made us welcome;
informing us, by the same means, that he was both deaf
and dumb; he then motioned us into his dwelling.

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[figure description] Page 336.[end figure description]

Going in, we threw ourselves upon an old mat, and peered
round. The soiled bamboos and calabashes looked so uninviting,
that the doctor was for pushing on to Taloo that night,
notwithstanding it was near sunset. But at length we concluded
to stay where we were.

After a good deal of bustling outside under a decrepit shed,
the old man made his appearance with our supper. In one
hand he held a flickering taper, and in the other, a huge, flat
calabash, scantily filled with viands. His eyes were dancing in
his head, and he looked from the calabash to us, and from us
to the calabash, as much as to say, “Ah, my lads, what do ye
think of this, eh? Pretty good cheer, eh?” But the fish and
Indian turnip being none of the best, we made but a sorry
meal. While discussing it, the old man tried hard to make
himself understood by signs; most of which were so excessively
ludicrous, that we made no doubt he was perpetrating a series
of pantomimic jokes.

The remnants of the feast removed, our host left us for a moment,
returning with a calabash of portly dimensions, and furnished
with a long, hooked neck, the mouth of which was stopped
with a wooden plug. It was covered with particles of
earth, and looked as if just taken from some place under
ground.

With sundry winks and horrible giggles peculiar to the
dumb, the vegetable demijohn was now tapped; the old fellow
looking round cautiously, and pointing at it; as much as to intimate,
that it contained some thing which was “taboo,” or forbidden.

Aware that intoxicating liquors were strictly prohibited to
the natives, we now watched our entertainer with much interest.
Charging a cocoa-nut shell, he tossed it off, and then filling
up again, presented the goblet to me. Disliking the smell,
I made faces at it; upon which he became highly excited; so

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[figure description] Page 337.[end figure description]

much so, that a miracle was wrought upon the spot. Snatching
the cup from my hands, he shouted out, “Ah, karhowree
sabbee lee-lee, ena arva tee maitai!” in other words, what a
blockhead of a white man! this is the real stuff!

We could not have been more startled, had a frog leaped
from his mouth. For an instant, he looked confused enough
himself; and then placing a finger mysteriously upon his mouth,
he contrived to make us understand, that at times he was subject
to a suspension of the powers of speech.

Deeming the phenomenon a remarkable one, every way, the
doctor desired him to open his mouth, so that he might have a
look down. But he refused.

This occurrence made us rather suspicious of our host; nor
could we afterward account for his conduct, except by supposing
that his feigning dumbness might in some way or other assist
him in the nefarious pursuits, in which it afterward turned
out that he was engaged. This conclusion, however, was not
altogether satisfactory.

To oblige him, we at last took a sip of his “arva tee,” and
found it very crude, and strong as Lucifer. Curious to know
whence it was obtained, we questioned him; when, lighting up
with pleasure, he seized the taper, and led us outside the hut,
bidding us follow.

After going some distance through the woods, we came to a
dismantled old shed of boughs, apparently abandoned to decay.
Underneath, nothing was to be seen but heaps of decaying
leaves and an immense, clumsy jar, wide-mouthed, and, by some
means, rudely hollowed out from a ponderous stone.

Here, for a while, we were left to ourselves; the old man
placing the light in the jar, and then disappearing. He returned,
carrying a long, large bamboo, and a crotched stick.
Throwing these down, he poked under a pile of rubbish, and
brought out a rough block of wood, pierced through and through

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[figure description] Page 338.[end figure description]

with a hole, which was immediately clapped on top of the jar.
Then planting the crotched stick upright about two yards distant,
and making it sustain one end of the bamboo, he inserted
the other end of the latter into the hole in the block; concluding
these arrangements, by placing an old calabash under the
farther end of the bamboo.

Coming up to us now with a sly, significant look, and pointing
admiringly at his apparatus, he exclaimed, “Ah, karhowree,
ena hannahanna arva tee!” as much as to say, “This, you see,
is the way it's done.”

His contrivance was nothing less than a native still, where he
manufactured his island “poteen.” The disarray in which we
found it, was probably intentional, as a security against detection.
Before we left the shed, the old fellow toppled the whole
concern over, and dragged it away piecemeal.

His disclosing his secret to us thus, was characteristic of the
“Tootai Owrees,” or contemners of the missionaries among the
natives; who, presuming that all foreigners are opposed to the
ascendency of the missionaries, take pleasure in making them
confidants, whenever the enactments of their rulers are secretly
set at naught.

The substance from which the liquor is produced is called
“Tee,” which is a large, fibrous root, something like a yam, but
smaller. In its green state, it is exceedingly acrid; but boiled
or baked, has the sweetness of the sugar-cane. After being
subjected to the fire, macerated, and reduced to a certain stage
of fermentation, the “Tee” is stirred up with water, and is then
ready for distillation.

On returning to the hut, pipes were introduced; and, after a
while, Long Ghost, who, at first, had relished the “Arva Tee”
as little as myself, to my surprise, began to wax sociable over
it, with Varvy; and, before long, absolutely got mellow, the
old toper keeping him company.

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[figure description] Page 339.[end figure description]

It was a curious sight. Every one knows, that, so long as
the occasion lasts, there is no stronger bond of sympathy and
good-feeling among men, than getting tipsy together. And
how earnestly, nay, movingly, a brace of worthies, thus employed,
will endeavor to shed light upon, and elucidate their
mystical ideas!

Fancy Varvy and the doctor, then; lovingly tippling, and
brimming over with a desire to become better acquainted; the
doctor politely bent upon carrying on the conversation in the
language of his host, and the old hermit persisting in trying to
talk English. The result was, that between the two, they
made such a fricasee of vowels and consonants, that it was
enough to turn one's brain.

The next morning, on waking, I heard a voice from the
tombs. It was the doctor, solemnly pronouncing himself a
dead man. He was sitting up, with both hands clasped over
his forehead, and his pale face a thousand times paler than
ever.

“That infernal stuff has murdered me!” he cried. “Heavens!
my head's all wheels and springs, like the automaton chess-player!
What's to be done, Paul? I'm poisoned.”

But, after drinking an herbal draught, concocted by our
host, and eating a light meal, at noon, he felt much better;
so much so, that he declared himself ready to continue our
journey.

When we came to start, the Yankee's boots were missing;
and, after a diligent search, were not to be found. Enraged
beyond measure, their proprietor said that Varvy must have
stolen them; but, considering his hospitality, I thought this
extremely improbable; though, to whom else to impute the
theft, I knew not. The doctor maintained, however, that one
who was capable of drugging an innocent traveler with “Arva
Tee,” was capable of any thing.

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[figure description] Page 340.[end figure description]

But it was in vain that he stormed, and Varvy and I
searched; the boots were gone.

Were it not for this mysterious occurrence, and Varvy's
detestable liquors, I would here recommend all travelers going
round by the beach to Partoowye, to stop at the Rock, and
patronize the old gentleman—the more especially as he entertains
gratis.

-- 341 --

p274-348 CHAPTER LXXIII. OUR RECEPTION IN PARTOOWYE.

[figure description] Page 341.[end figure description]

Upon starting, at last, I flung away my sandals—by this time
quite worn out—with the view of keeping company with the
doctor, now forced to go barefooted. Recovering his spirits
in good time, he protested that boots were a bore after all, and
going without them decidedly manly.

This was said, be it observed, while strolling along over a
soft carpet of grass; a little moist, even at midday, from the
shade of the wood, through which we were passing.

Emerging from this, we entered upon a blank, sandy tract,
upon which the sun's rays fairly flashed; making the loose
gravel under foot well nigh as hot as the floor of an oven.
Such yelling and leaping as there was in getting over this
ground, would be hard to surpass. We could not have crossed
at all,—until toward sunset,—had it not been for a few small,
wiry bushes, growing here and there; into which we every
now and then thrust our feet to cool. There was no little judgment
necessary in selecting your bush; for if not chosen judiciously,
the chances were, that on springing forward again, and
finding the next bush so far off, that an intermediate cooling
was indispensable, you would have to run back to your old
place again.

Safely passing the Sahara, or Fiery Desert, we soothed our
half-blistered feet by a pleasant walk through a meadow of
long grass, which soon brought us in sight of a few straggling
houses, sheltered by a grove on the outskirts of the village of
Partoowye.

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[figure description] Page 342.[end figure description]

My comrade was for entering the first one we came to;
but, on drawing near, they had so much of an air of pretension,
at least for native dwellings, that I hesitated; thinking
they might be the residences of the higher chiefs, from whom
no very extravagant welcome was to be anticipated.

While standing irresolute, a voice from the nearest house
hailed us: “Aramai! aramai, karhowree!” (“come in! come
in, strangers!”)

We at once entered, and were warmly greeted. The master
of the house was an aristocratic-looking islander; dressed in
loose linen drawers, a fine white shirt, and a sash of red silk,
tied about the waist, after the fashion of the Spaniards in Chili.
He came up to us with a free, frank air, and, striking his chest
with his hand, introduced himself as Ereemear Po-Po; or,
to render the Christian name back again into English—
Jeremiah Po-Po.

These curious combinations of names, among the people
of the Society Islands, originate in the following way. When
a native is baptized, his patronymic often gives offense to the
missionaries, and they insist upon changing to something else
whatever is objectionable therein. So, when Jeremiah came
to the font, and gave his name as Narmo-Nana Po-Po (something
equivalent to The-Darer-of-Devils-by-Night), the reverend
gentleman officiating told him, that such a heathenish appellation
would never do, and a substitute must be had; at least for
the devil part of it. Some highly respectable Christian appellations
were then submitted, from which the candidate for admission
into the church was at liberty to choose. There was
Adamo (Adam), Nooar (Noah), Daveedar (David), Earcobar
(James), Eorna (John), Patoora (Peter), Ereemear (Jeremiah),
&c. And thus did he come to be named Jeremiah Po-Po; or,
Jeremiah-in-the-Dark —which he certainly was, I fancy, as to
the ridiculousness of his new cognomen.

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[figure description] Page 343.[end figure description]

We gave our names in return; upon which he bade us be
seated; and, sitting down himself, asked us a great many questions,
in mixed English and Tahitian. After giving some directions
to an old man, to prepare food, our host's wife, a large,
benevolent-looking woman, upward of forty, also sat down by
us. In our soiled and travel-stained appearance, the good lady
seemed to find abundant matter for commiseration; and all
the while kept looking at us piteously, and making mournful
exclamations.

But Jeremiah and his spouse were not the only inmates of
the mansion.

In one corner, upon a large native couch, elevated upon
posts, reclined a nymph; who, half-veiled in her own long hair,
had yet to make her toilet for the day. She was the only
daughter of Po-Po; and a very beautiful little daughter she
was; not more than fourteen; with the most delightful shape—
like a bud just blown; and large hazel eyes. They called
her Loo: a name rather pretty and genteel, and, therefore,
quite appropriate; for a more genteel and lady-like little
damsel there was not in all Imeeo.

She was a cold and haughty young beauty though, this same
little Loo, and never deigned to notice us; further than now
and then to let her eyes float over our persons, with an expression
of indolent indifference. With the tears of the Loohooloo
girls hardly dry from their sobbing upon our shoulders, this
contemptuous treatment stung us not a little.

When we first entered, Po-Po was raking smooth the carpet
of dried ferns which had that morning been newly laid; and
now that our meal was ready, it was spread on a banana leaf,
right upon this fragrant floor. Here, we lounged at our ease;
eating baked pig and bread-fruit off earthen plates, and using,
for the first time in many a long month, real knives and forks.

These, as well as other symptoms of refinement, somewhat

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abated our surprise at the reserve of the little Loo: her parents,
doubtless, were magnates in Partoowye, and she herself
was an heiress.

After being informed of our stay in the vale of Martair, they
were very curious to know, on what errand we came to Taloo.
We merely hinted, that the ship lying in the harbor was the
reason of our coming.

Arfretee, Po-Po's wife, was a right motherly body. The
meal over, she recommended a nap; and upon our waking
much refreshed, she led us to the doorway, and pointed down
among the trees; through which we saw the gleam of water.
Taking the hint, we repaired thither; and finding a deep shaded
pool, bathed, and returned to the house. Our hostess now sat
down by us; and after looking with great interest at the doctor's
cloak, felt of my own soiled and tattered garments for the
hundredth time, and exclaimed plaintively—“Ah nuee nuee
olee manee! olee manee!” (alas! they are very, very old!
very old!)

When Arfretee, good soul, thus addressed us, she thought
she was talking very respectable English. The word “nuee”
is so familiar to foreigners, throughout Polynesia, and is so
often used by them in their intercourse with the natives, that
the latter suppose it to be common to all mankind. “Olee
manee” is the native pronunciation of “old man,” which, by
Society Islanders talking Saxon, is applied indiscriminately to
all aged things and persons whatsoever.

Going to a chest filled with various European articles, she
took out two suits of new sailor frocks and trowsers; and presenting
them with a gracious smile, pushed us behind a calico
screen, and left us. Without any fastidious scruples, we donned
the garments; and what with the meal, the nap, and the bath,
we now came forth like a couple of bridegrooms.

Evening drawing on, lamps were lighted. They were very

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simple: the half of a green melon, about one third full of cocoa-nut
oil, and a wick of twisted tappa floating on the surface. As a
night lamp, this contrivance can not be excelled; a soft dreamy
light being shed through the transparent rind.

As the evening advanced, other members of the household,
whom as yet we had not seen, began to drop in. There was a
slender young dandy in a gay striped shirt, and whole fathoms
of bright figured calico tucked about his waist, and falling to
the ground. He wore a new straw hat also, with three distinct
ribbons tied about the crown; one black, one green, and one
pink. Shoes or stockings, however, he had none.

There were a couple of delicate, olive-cheeked little girls—
twins—with mild eyes and beautiful hair, who ran about
the house, half-naked, like a couple of gazelles. They had a
brother, somewhat younger—a fine dark boy, with an eye like
a woman's. All these were the children of Po-Po, begotten in
lawful wedlock.

Then, there were two or three queer-looking old ladies, who
wore shabby mantles of soiled sheeting; which fitted so badly,
and withal, had such a second-hand look, that I at once put their
wearers down as domestic paupers—poor relations, supported
by the bounty of My Lady Arfretee. They were sad, meek old
bodies; said little and ate less; and either kept their eyes on
the ground, or lifted them up deferentially. The semi-civilization
of the island must have had something to do with making
them what they were.

I had almost forgotten Monee, the grinning old man who
prepared our meal. His head was a shining, bald globe.
He had a round little paunch, and legs like a cat. He was
Po-Po's factotum—cook, butler, and climber of the bread-fruit
and cocoa-nut trees; and, added to all else, a mighty favorite
with his mistress; with whom he would sit smoking and gossiping
by the hour.

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Often you saw the indefatigable Monee working away at a
great rate; then dropping his employment all at once—never
mind what—run off to a little distance, and after rolling himself
away in a corner, and taking a nap, jump up again, and fall to
with fresh vigor.

From a certain something in the behavior of Po-Po and his
household, I was led to believe, that he was a pillar of the
church; though, from what I had seen in Tahiti, I could hardly
reconcile such a supposition with his frank, cordial, unembarrassed
air. But I was not wrong in my conjecture: Po-Po
turned out to be a sort of elder, or deacon; he was also accounted
a man of wealth, and was nearly related to a high
chief.

Before retiring, the entire household gathered upon the floor;
and in their midst, he read aloud a chapter from a Tahitian
Bible. Then kneeling with the rest of us, he offered up a
prayer. Upon its conclusion, all separated without speaking.
These devotions took place regularly, every night and morning.
Grace too, was invariably said, by this family, both before and
after eating.

After becoming familiarized with the almost utter destitution
of any thing like practical piety, upon these islands, what I observed
in our host's house astonished me much. But whatever
others might have been, Po-Po was, in truth, a Christian: the
only one, Arfretee excepted, whom I personally knew to be
such, among all the natives of Polynesia.

-- 347 --

p274-354 CHAPTER LXXIV. RETIRING FOR THE NIGHT. —THE DOCTOR GROWS DEVOUT.

[figure description] Page 347.[end figure description]

They put us to bed very pleasantly.

Lying across the foot of Po-Po's nuptial couch, was a smaller
one, made of Koar-wood; a thin, strong cord, twisted from the
fibres of the husk of the cocoa-nut, and woven into an exceedingly
light sort of net-work, forming its elastic body. Spread
upon this, was a single, fine mat, with a roll of dried ferns for a
pillow, and a strip of white tappa for a sheet. This couch was
mine. The doctor was provided for in another corner.

Loo reposed alone on a little settee, with a taper burning by
her side; the dandy, her brother, swinging overhead in a sailor's
hammock. The two gazelles frisked upon a mat near by; and
the indigent relations borrowed a scant corner of the old butler's
pallet, who snored away by the open door. After all had
retired, Po-Po placed the illuminated melon in the middle of
the apartment; and so, we all slumbered till morning.

Upon awaking, the sun was streaming brightly through the
open bamboos, but no one was stirring. After surveying the
fine attitudes, into which forgetfulness had thrown at least one
of the sleepers, my attention was called off to the general aspect
of the dwelling, which was quite significant of the superior circumstances
of our host.

The house itself was built in the simple, but tasteful native
style. It was a long, regular oval, some fifty feet in length,
with low sides of cane-work, and a roof thatched with palmetto-leaves.
The ridge-pole was, perhaps, twenty feet from the

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ground. There was no foundation whatever; the bare earth
being merely covered with ferns: a kind of carpeting which
serves very well, if frequently renewed; otherwise, it becomes
dusty, and the haunt of vermin, as in the huts of the poorer
natives.

Beside the couches, the furniture consisted of three or four
sailor chests; in which were stored the fine wearing-apparel of
the household—the ruffled linen shirts of Po-Po, the calico
dresses of his wife and children, and divers odds and ends
of European articles—strings of beads, ribbons, Dutch looking-glasses,
knives, coarse prints, bunches of keys, bits of crockery,
and metal buttons. One of these chests—used as a bandbox by
Arfretee—contained several of the native hats (coal-scuttles),
all of the same pattern, but trimmed with variously colored
ribbons. Of nothing was our good hostess more proud, than of
these hats, and her dresses. On Sundays, she went abroad a
dozen times; and every time, like Queen Elizabeth, in a different
robe.

Po-Po, for some reason or other, always gave us our meals
before the rest of the family were served; and the doctor, who
was very discerning in such matters, declared that we fared
much better than they. Certain it was, that had Ereemear's
guests traveled with purses, portmanteaux, and letters of introduction
to the queen, they could not have been better cared for.

The day after our arrival, Monee, the old butler, brought us
in for dinner a small pig, baked in the ground. All savory, it
lay in a wooden trencher, surrounded by roasted hemispheres
of the bread-fruit. A large calabash, filled with taro pudding,
or poee, followed; and the young dandy, overcoming his customary
languor, threw down our cocoa-nuts from an adjoining
tree.

When all was ready, and the household looking on, Long
Ghost, devoutly clasping his hands over the fated pig, implored

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[figure description] Page 349.[end figure description]

a blessing. Hereupon, every body present looked exceedingly
pleased; Po-Po coming up, and addressing the doctor with
much warmth; and Arfretee, regarding him with almost maternal
affection, exclaimed delightedly, “Ah! mickonaree tata
maitai!” in other words, “What a pious young man!”

It was just after this meal, that she brought me a roll of grass
sinnate (of the kind which sailors sew into the frame of their
tarpaulins), and then, handing me needle and thread, bade me
begin at once, and make myself the hat which I so much
needed. An accomplished hand at the business, I finished it
that day—merely stitching the braid together; and Arfretee,
by way of rewarding my industry, with her own olive hands
ornamented the crown with a band of flame-colored ribbon; the
two long ends of which streaming behind, sailor-fashion, still
preserved for me the Eastern title bestowed by Long Ghost.

-- 350 --

p274-357 CHAPTER LXXV. A RAMBLE THROUGH THE SETTLEMENT.

[figure description] Page 350.[end figure description]

The following morning, making our toilets carefully, we
donned our sombreros, and sallied out on a tour. Without
meaning to reveal our designs upon the court, our principal
object was, to learn what chances there were for white men to
obtain employment under the queen. On this head, it is true,
we had questioned Po-Po; but his answers had been very
discouraging; so we determined to obtain further information
elsewhere.

But first, to give some little description of the village.

The settlement of Partoowye is nothing more than some
eighty houses, scattered here and there, in the midst of an immense
grove, where the trees have been thinned out, and the
underbrush cleared away. Through the grove flows a stream;
and the principal avenue crosses it, over an elastic bridge of
cocoa-nut trunks, laid together side by side. The avenue is
broad, and serpentine; well shaded, from one end to the other;
and as pretty a place for a morning promenade, as any lounger
could wish. The houses, constructed without the slightest regard
to the road, peep into view from among the trees on either side;
some looking you right in the face as you pass, and others, without
any manners, turning their backs. Occasionally, you observe
a rural retreat, inclosed by a picket of bamboos, or with a solitary
pane of glass massively framed in the broadside of the
dwelling, or with a rude, strange-looking door, swinging upon
dislocated wooden hinges. Otherwise, the dwellings are built

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[figure description] Page 351.[end figure description]

in the original style of the natives; and never mind how mean
and filthy some of them may appear within, they all look picturesque
enough without.

As we sauntered along, the people we met, saluted us pleasantly,
and invited us into their houses; and in this way we
made a good many brief morning calls. But the hour could
not have been the fashionable one in Partoowye; since the
ladies were invariably in dishabille. But they always gave us
a cordial reception, and were particularly polite to the doctor;
caressing him, and amorously hanging about his neck; wonderfully
taken up, in short, with a gay handkerchief he wore there.
Arfretee had that morning bestowed it upon the pious youth.

With some exceptions, the general appearance of the natives
of Partoowye, was far better than that of the inhabitants of
Papeetee: a circumstance only to be imputed to their restricted
intercourse with foreigners.

Strolling on, we turned a sweep of the road, when the doctor
gave a start; and no wonder. Right before us, in the grove,
was a block of houses: regular square frames, boarded over,
furnished with windows and doorways, and two stories high.
We ran up, and found them fast going to decay; very dingy,
and here and there covered with moss; no sashes nor doors;
and on one side, the entire block had settled down nearly a
foot. On going into the basement, we looked clean up through
the unboarded timbers to the roof; where rays of light, glimmering
through many a chink, illuminated the cobwebs which
swung all round.

The whole interior was dark and close. Burrowing among
some old mats in one corner, like a parcel of Gipsys in a ruin,
were a few vagabond natives. They had their dwelling here.

Curious to know, who on earth could have been thus trying
to improve the value of real estate in Partoowye, we made
inquiries; and learned that, some years previous, the block

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[figure description] Page 352.[end figure description]

had been thrown up by a veritable Yankee (one might have
known that), a house carpenter by trade, and a bold, enterprising
fellow by nature.

Put ashore from his ship, sick, he first went to work and got
well; then sallied out with chisel and plane, and made himself
generally useful. A sober, steady man, it seems, he at last
obtained the confidence of several chiefs, and soon filled them
with all sorts of ideas concerning the alarming want of public
spirit in the people of Imeeo. More especially did he dwell
upon the humiliating fact of their living in paltry huts of bamboo,
when magnificent palaces of boards might so easily be
morticed together.

In the end, these representations so far prevailed with one
old chief, that the carpenter was engaged to build a batch of
these wonderful palaces. Provided with plenty of men, he at
once set to work: built a saw-mill among the mountains, felled
trees, and sent over to Papeetee for nails.

Presto! the castle rose; but alas, the roof was hardly on,
when the Yankee's patron, having speculated beyond his means,
broke all to pieces, and was absolutely unable to pay one “plug”
of tobacco in the pound. His failure involved the carpenter,
who sailed away from his creditors in the very next ship that
touched at the harbor.

The natives despised the rickety palace of boards; and often
lounged by, wagging their heads, and jeering.

We were told that the queen's residence was at the extreme
end of the village; so, without waiting for the doctor to procure
a fiddle, we suddenly resolved upon going thither at once,
and learning whether any privy counselorships were vacant.

Now, although there was a good deal of my waggish comrade's
nonsense about what has been said concerning our expectations
of court preferment, we, nevertheless, really thought,
that something to our advantage might turn up in that quarter.

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[figure description] Page 353.[end figure description]

On approaching the palace grounds, we found them rather
peculiar. A broad pier of hewn coral rocks was built right
out into the water; and upon this, and extending into a grove
adjoining, were some eight or ten very large native houses,
constructed in the handsomest style, and inclosed together by a
low picket of bamboos, which embraced a considerable area.

Throughout the Society Islands, the residences of the chiefs
are mostly found in the immediate vicinity of the sea; a site
which gives them the full benefit of a cooling breeze; nor are
they so liable to the annoyance of insects; besides enjoying
when they please, the fine shade afforded by the neighboring
groves, always most luxuriant near the water.

Lounging about the grounds, were some sixty or eighty
handsomely dressed natives, men and women; some reclining
on the shady side of the houses, others under the trees, and a
small group conversing close by the railing, facing us.

We went up to the latter; and giving the usual salutation, were
on the point of vaulting over the bamboos, when they turned
upon us angrily, and said we could not enter. We stated our
earnest desire to see the queen; hinting that we were bearers
of important dispatches. But it was to no purpose; and not
a little vexed, we were obliged to return to Po-Po's without
effecting any thing.

-- 354 --

p274-361 CHAPTER LXXVI. AN ISLAND JILT. —WE VISIT THE SHIP.

[figure description] Page 354.[end figure description]

Upon arriving home, we fully laid open to Po-Po our motives
in visiting Taloo, and begged his friendly advice. In his
broken English, he cheerfully gave us all the information we
needed.

It was true, he said, that the queen entertained some idea of
making a stand against the French; and it was currently reported,
also, that several chiefs from Borabora, Huwyenee,
Raiatair, and Tahar, the leeward islands of the group, were at
that very time taking counsel with her, as to the expediency of
organizing a general movement throughout the entire cluster,
with a view of anticipating any further encroachments on the
part of the invaders. Should warlike measures be actually decided
upon, it was quite certain that Pomaree would be glad
to enlist all the foreigners she could; but as to her making
officers of either the doctor or me, that was out of the question;
because, already, a number of Europeans, well known to her,
had volunteered as such. Concerning our getting immediate
access to the queen, Po-Po told us it was rather doubtful; she
living at that time very retired, in poor health and spirits, and
averse to receiving calls. Previous to her misfortunes, however,
no one, however humble, was denied admittance to her
presence; sailors, even, attended her levees.

Not at all disheartened by these things, we concluded to kill
time in Partoowye, until some event turned up more favorable
to our projects. So that very day we sallied out on an

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[figure description] Page 355.[end figure description]

excursion to the ship, which, lying land-locked, far up the bay, yet
remained to be visited.

Passing, on our route, a long, low shed, a voice, hailed us—
“White men ahoy!” Turning round, who should we see but
a rosy-cheeked Englishman (you could tell his country at a
glance), up to his knees in shavings, and planing away at a
bench. He turned out to be a runaway ship's carpenter, recently
from Tahiti, and now doing a profitable business in
Imeeo, by fitting up the dwellings of opulent chiefs with cupboards
and other conveniences, and once in a while trying his
hand at a lady's work-box. He had been in the settlement but
a few months, and already possessed houses and lands.

But though blessed with prosperity and high health, there
was one thing wanting—a wife. And when he came to speak
of the matter, his countenance fell, and he leaned dejectedly
upon his plane.

“It's too bad!” he sighed, “to wait three long years; and
all the while, dear little Lullee living in the same house with
that infernal chief from Tahar!”

Our curiosity was piqued; the poor carpenter, then, had been
falling in love with some island coquet, who was going to jilt
him.

But such was not the case. There was a law prohibiting,
under a heavy penalty, the marriage of a native with a foreigner,
unless the latter, after being three years a resident on the
island, was willing to affirm his settled intention of remaining
for life.

William was therefore in a sad way. He told us that he
might have married the girl half-a-dozen times, had it not been
for this odious law; but, latterly, she had become less loving
and more giddy, particularly with the strangers from Tahar.
Depserately smitten, and desirous of securing her at all hazards,
he had proposed to the damsel's friends a nice little

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[figure description] Page 356.[end figure description]

arrangement, introductory to marriage; but they would not hear
of it; besides, if the pair were discovered living together upon
such a footing, they would be liable to a degrading punishment:—
sent to work making stone walls and opening roads for
the queen.

Doctor Long Ghost was all sympathy. “Bill, my good fellow,”
said he, tremulously, “let me go and talk to her.” But
Bill, declining the offer, would not even inform us where his
charmer lived.

Leaving the disconsolate Willie planing a plank of New
Zealand pine (an importation from the Bay of Islands), and
thinking the while of Lullee, we went on our way. How his
suit prospered in the end, we never learned.

Going from Po-Po's house toward the anchorage of the harbor
of Taloo, you catch no glimpse of the water, until coming
out from deep groves, you all at once find yourself upon the
beach. A bay, considered by many voyagers the most beautiful
in the South Seas, then lies before you. You stand upon
one side of what seems a deep, green river, flowing through
mountain passes to the sea. Right opposite, a majestic promontory
divides the inlet from another, called after its discoverer,
Captain Cook. The face of this promontory toward Taloo is
one verdant wall; and at its base the waters lie still, and fathomless.
On the left hand, you just catch a peep of the widening
mouth of the bay, the break in the reef by which ships enter,
and beyond, the sea. To the right, the inlet, sweeping boldly
round the promontory, runs far away into the land; where, save
in one direction, the hills close in on every side, knee-deep in
verdure, and shooting aloft in grotesque peaks. The open
space lies at the head of the bay; in the distance it extends
into a broad, hazy plain lying at the foot of an amphitheatre
of hills. Here is the large sugar plantation previously alluded
to. Beyond the first range of hills, you descry the sharp

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[figure description] Page 357.[end figure description]

pinnacles of the interior; and among these, the same silent Marling-spike,
which we so often admired from the other side of the
island.

All alone in the harbor lay the good ship Leviathan. We
jumped into the canoe, and paddled off to her. Though early
in the afternoon, every thing was quiet; but upon mounting
the side, we found four or five sailors lounging about the forecastle,
under an awning. They gave us no very cordial reception;
and though otherwise quite hearty in appearance, seemed
to assume a look of ill-humor on purpose to honor our arrival.
There was much eagerness to learn whether we wanted to
“ship;” and by the unpleasant accounts they gave of the vessel,
they seemed desirous to prevent such a thing, if possible.

We asked where the rest of the ship's company were; a
gruff old fellow made answer, “One boat's crew of 'em is gone
to Davy Jones's locker:—went off after a whale, last cruise,
and never come back agin. All the starboard watch ran away
last night, and the skipper's ashore kitching 'em.”

“And it's shipping yer after, my jewels, is it?” cried a curly-pated
little Belfast sailor, coming up to us, “thin arrah! my
livelies, jist be after sailing ashore in a jiffy:—the divil of a
skipper will carry yees both to sea, whether or no. Be off
wid ye, thin, darlints, and steer clear of the likes of this ballyhoo
of blazes as long as ye live. They murther us here every
day, and starve us into the bargain. Here, Dick, lad, harl the
poor divils' canow alongside; and paddle away wid yees for
dear life.”

But we loitered awhile, listening to more inducements to
ship; and at last concluded to stay to supper. My sheath-knife
never cut into better sea-beef than that which we found
lying in the kid in the forecastle. The bread, too, was hard,
dry, and brittle as glass; and there was plenty of both.

While we were below, the mate of the vessel called out for

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[figure description] Page 358.[end figure description]

some one to come on deck. I liked his voice. Hearing it was
as good as a look at his face. It betokened a true sailor, and
no taskmaster.

The appearance of the Leviathan herself was quite pleasing.
Like all large, comfortable old whalers, she had a sort of
motherly look:—broad in the beam, flush decks, and four chubby
boats hanging at the breast. Her sails were furled loosely
upon the yards, as if they had been worn long, and fitted easy;
her shrouds swung negligently slack; and as for the “running
rigging,” it never worked hard as it does in some of your
“dandy ships,” jamming in the sheaves of blocks, like Chinese
slippers, too small to be useful; on the contrary, the ropes ran
glibly through, as if they had many a time traveled the same
road, and were used to it.

When evening came, we dropped into our canoe, and paddled
ashore; fully convinced that the good ship never deserved
the name which they gave her.

-- 359 --

p274-366 CHAPTER LXXVII. A PARTY OF ROVERS. —LITTLE LOO AND THE DOCTOR.

[figure description] Page 359.[end figure description]

While in Partoowye, we fell in with a band of six veteran
rovers, prowling about the village and harbor, who had just
come overland from another part of the island.

A few weeks previous, they had been paid off, at Papeetee,
from a whaling vessel, on board of which they had, six months
before, shipped for a single cruise; that is to say, to be discharged
at the next port. Their cruise was a famous one; and
each man stepped upon the beach at Tahiti, jingling his dollars
in a sock.

Weary at last of the shore, and having some money left,
they clubbed, and purchased a sail-boat; proposing a visit to
a certain uninhabited island, concerning which they had heard
strange and golden stories. Of course, they never could think
of going to sea without a medicine-chest filled with flasks
of spirits, and a small cask of the same in the hold, in case the
chest should give out.

Away they sailed; hoisted a flag of their own, and gave three
times three, as they staggered out of the bay of Papeetee with
a strong breeze, and under all the “muslin” they could carry.

Evening coming on, and feeling in high spirits, and no ways
disposed to sleep, they concluded to make a night of it; which
they did; all hands getting tipsy, and the two masts going
over the side about midnight, to the tune of



“Sailing down, sailing down,
On the coast of Barbaree.”

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[figure description] Page 360.[end figure description]

Fortunately, one worthy could stand, by holding on to the
tiller; and the rest managed to crawl about, and hack away the
lanyards of the rigging, so as to break clear from the fallen
spars. While thus employed, two sailors got tranquilly over
the side, and went plumb to the bottom; under the erroneous
impression, that they were stepping upon an imaginary wharf,
to get at their work better.

After this, it blew quite a gale; and the commodore, at the
helm, instinctively kept the boat before the wind; and by so
doing, ran over for the opposite island of Imeeo. Crossing the
channel, by almost a miracle they went straight through an
opening in the reef, and shot upon a ledge of coral, where the
waters were tolerably smooth. Here, they lay until morning,
when the natives came off to them in their canoes. By the
help of the islanders, the schooner was hove over on her
beam-ends; when, finding the bottom knocked to pieces, the
adventurers sold the boat for a trifle to the chief of the district,
and went ashore, rolling before them their precious cask
of spirits. Its contents soon evaporated, and they came to
Partoowye.

The day after encountering these fellows, we were strolling
among the groves in the neighborhood, when we came across
several parties of natives, armed with clumsy muskets, rusty
cutlasses, and outlandish clubs. They were beating the bushes,
shouting aloud, and apparently, trying to scare somebody. They
were in pursuit of the strangers, who, having in a single night,
set at naught all the laws of the place, had thought best to
decamp.

In the daytime, Po-Po's house was as pleasant a lounge as
one could wish. So, after strolling about, and seeing all there
was to be seen, we spent the greater part of our mornings there;
breakfasting late, and dining about two hours after noon. Sometimes
we lounged on the floor of ferns, smoking, and telling

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stories; of which the doctor had as many as a half-pay captain
in the army. Sometimes we chatted, as well as we could, with
the natives; and, one day—joy to us!—Po-Po brought in three
volumes of Smollet's novels, which had been found in the chest
of a sailor, who some time previous had died on the island.

Amelia!—Peregrine!—you hero of rogues, Count Fathom!—
what a debt do we owe you!

I know not, whether it was the reading of these romances,
or the want of some sentimental pastime, which led the doctor,
about this period, to lay siege to the heart of the little Loo.

Now, as I have said before, the daughter of Po-Po was most
cruelly reserved, and never deigned to notice us. Frequently
I addressed her with a long face, and an air of the profoundest
and most distant respect—but in vain; she wouldn't even
turn up her pretty olive nose. Ah! it's quite plain, thought I;
she knows very well what graceless dogs sailors are, and won't
have any thing to do with us.

But thus thought not my comrade. Bent he was upon firing
the cold glitter of Loo's passionless eyes.

He opened the campaign with admirable tact: making
cautious approaches, and content, for three days, with ogling
the nymph, for about five minutes after every meal. On the
fourth day, he asked her a question; on the fifth she dropped
a nut of ointment, and he picked it up and gave it to her; on
the sixth, he went over and sat down within three yards of the
couch where she lay; and, on the memorable morn of the
seventh, he proceeded to open his batteries in form.

The damsel was reclining on the ferns; one hand supporting
her cheek, and the other listlessly turning over the leaves of a
Tahitian Bible. The doctor approached.

Now the chief disadvantage under which he labored, was
his almost complete ignorance of the love vocabulary of the
island. But French counts, they say, make love delightfully

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in broken English; and what hindered the doctor from doing
the same in dulcet Tahitian. So at it he went.

“Ah!” said he, smiling bewitchingly, “oee mickonaree?
oee ready Biblee?”

No answer; not even a look.

“Ah! maitai! very goody ready Biblee mickonaree.”

Loo, without stirring, began reading, in a low tone, to herself.

“Mickonaree Biblee ready goody maitai,” once more observed
the doctor, ingeniously transposing his words for the
third time.

But all to no purpose; Loo gave no sign.

He paused, despairingly; but it would never do to give
up; so he threw himself at full length beside her, and audaciously
commenced turning over the leaves.

Loo gave a start, just one little start, barely perceptible, and
then fumbling something in her hand, lay perfectly motionless;
the doctor rather frightened at his own temerity, and knowing
not what to do next. At last, he placed one arm cautiously
about her waist; almost in the same instant he bounded to
his feet, with a cry; the little witch had pierced him with a
thorn. But there she lay, just as quietly as ever; turning over
the leaves, and reading to herself.

My long friend raised the siege incontinently, and made a
disorderly retreat to the place where I reclined, looking on.

I am pretty sure that Loo must have related this occurrence
to her father, who came in shortly afterward; for he looked
queerly at the doctor. But he said nothing; and, in ten
minutes, was quite as affable as ever. As for Loo, there was
not the slightest change in her; and the doctor, of course, forever
afterward held his peace.

-- 363 --

p274-370 CHAPTER LXXVIII. MRS. BELL.

[figure description] Page 363.[end figure description]

One day, taking a pensive afternoon stroll along one of the
many bridle-paths which wind among the shady groves in the
neighborhood of Taloo, I was startled by a sunny apparition.
It was that of a beautiful young Englishwoman, charmingly
dressed, and mounted upon a spirited little white pony.
Switching a green branch, she came cantering toward me.

I looked round to see whether I could possibly be in Polynesia.
There were the palm-trees; but how to account for
the lady?

Stepping to one side, as the apparition drew near, I made a
polite obeisance. It gave me a bold, rosy look; and then, with
a gay air, patted its palfrey, crying out, “Fly away, Willie!”
and galloped among the trees.

I would have followed; but Willie's heels were making
such a pattering among the dry leaves, that pursuit would have
been useless.

So I went straight home to Po-Po's, and related my adventure
to the doctor.

The next day, our inquiries resulted in finding out, that the
stranger had been on the island about two years; that she came
from Sydney; and was the wife of Mr. Bell (happy dog!), the
proprietor of the sugar plantation, to which I have previously
referred.

To the sugar plantation we went, the same day.

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The country round about was very beautiful: a level basin
of verdure, surrounded by sloping hillsides. The sugar-cane—
of which there was about one hundred acres, in various
stages of cultivation—looked thrifty. A considerable tract of
land, however, which seemed to have been formerly tilled,
was now abandoned.

The place where they extracted the saccharine matter, was
under an immense shed of bamboos. Here we saw several
clumsy pieces of machinery for breaking the cane; also great
kettles for boiling the sugar. But, at present, nothing was
going on. Two or three natives were lounging in one of the
kettles, smoking; the other was occupied by three sailors from
the Leviathan, playing cards.

While we were conversing with these worthies, a stranger
approached. He was a sun-burnt, romantic-looking European,
dressed in a loose suit of nankeen; his fine throat and chest
were exposed, and he sported a Guayaquil hat, with a brim like
a Chinese umbrella. This was Mr. Bell. He was very civil;
showed us the grounds, and, taking us into a sort of arbor, to
our surprise, offered to treat us to some wine. People often
do the like; but Mr. Bell did more: he produced the bottle.
It was spicy sherry; and we drank out of the halves of fresh
citron melons. Delectable goblets!

The wine was a purchase from the French in Tahiti.

Now all this was extremely polite in Mr. Bell; still, we
came to see Mrs. Bell. But she proved to be a phantom, indeed;
having left the same morning for Papeetee, on a visit to
one of the missionaries' wives there.

I went home, much chagrined.

To be frank, my curiosity had been wonderfully piqued
concerning the lady. In the first place, she was the most
beautiful white woman I ever saw in Polynesia. But this is
saying nothing. She had such eyes, such moss-roses in her

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cheeks, such a divine air in the saddle, that, to my dying day,
I shall never forget Mrs. Bell.

The sugar-planter himself was young, robust, and handsome.
So, merrily may the little Bells increase, and multiply,
and make music in the Land of Imeeo.

-- 366 --

p274-373 CHAPTER LXXIX. TALOO CHAPEL. —HOLDING COURT IN POLYNESIA.

[figure description] Page 366.[end figure description]

In Partoowye is to be seen one of the best constructed and
handsomest chapels in the South Seas. Like the buildings of
the palace, it stands upon an artificial pier, presenting a semicircular
sweep to the bay. The chapel is built of hewn blocks
of coral; a substance which, although extremely friable, is said
to harden by exposure to the atmosphere. To a stranger,
these blocks look extremely curious. Their surface is covered
with strange fossil-like impressions, the seal of which must
have been set before the flood. Very nearly white when hewn
from the reefs, the coral darkens with age; so that several
churches in Polynesia now look almost as sooty and venerable
as famed St. Paul's.

In shape, the chapel is an octagon, with galleries all round.
It will seat, perhaps, four hundred people. Every thing within
is stained a tawny red; and there being but few windows, or
rather embrasures, the dusky benches and galleries, and the
tall spectre of a pulpit look any thing but cheerful.

On Sundays, we always went to worship here. Going in the
family suite of Po-Po, we, of course, maintained a most decorous
exterior; and hence, by all the elderly people of the village,
were doubtless regarded as pattern young men.

Po-Po's seat was in a snug corner; and it being particularly
snug, in the immediate vicinity of one of the Palm pillars supporting
the gallery, I invariably leaned against it: Po-Po and

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[figure description] Page 367.[end figure description]

his lady on one side, the doctor and the dandy on the other,
and the children and poor relations seated behind.

As for Loo, instead of sitting (as she ought to have done) by
her good father and mother, she must needs run up into the
gallery, and sit with a parcel of giddy creatures of her own
age; who, all through the sermon, did nothing but look down
on the congregation; pointing out, and giggling at the queer-looking
old ladies in dowdy bonnets and scant tunics. But
Loo, herself, was never guilty of these improprieties.

Occasionally during the week, they have afternoon service in
the chapel, when the natives themselves have something to say;
although their auditors are but few. An introductory prayer
being offered by the missionary, and a hymn sung, communicants
rise in their places, and exhort in pure Tahitian, and with wonderful
tone and gesture. And among them all, Deacon Po-Po,
though he talked most, was the one whom you would have
liked best to hear. Much would I have given to have understood
some of his impassioned bursts; when he tossed his arms
overhead, stamped, scowled, and glared, till he looked like the
very Angel of Vengeance.

“Deluded man!” sighed the doctor, on one of these occasions,
“I fear he takes the fanatical view of the subject.” One
thing was certain: when Po-Po spoke, all listened; a great deal
more than could be said for the rest; for under the discipline
of two or three I could mention, some of the audience napped;
others fidgeted; a few yawned; and one irritable old gentleman,
in a night-cap of cocoa-nut leaves, used to clutch his long
staff in a state of excessive nervousness, and stride out of the
church; making all the noise he could, to emphasize his disgust.

Right adjoining the chapel is an immense, rickety building,
with windows and shutters, and a half-decayed board flooring
laid upon trunks of palm-trees. They called it a school-house;
but as such we never saw it occupied. It was often used as a

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[figure description] Page 368.[end figure description]

court-room, however; and here we attended several trials;
among others, that of a decayed naval officer, and a young girl
of fourteen; the latter, charged with having been very naughty
on a particular occasion, set forth in the pleadings; and the
former, with having aided and abetted her in her naughtiness,
and with other misdemeanors.

The foreigner was a tall, military-looking fellow, with a dark
cheek and black whiskers. According to his own account, he
had lost a colonial armed brig on the coast of New Zealand;
and since then, had been leading the life of a man about town,
among the islands of the Pacific.

The doctor wanted to know why he did not go home and
report the loss of his brig; but Captain Crash, as they called
him, had some incomprehensible reasons for not doing so, about
which he could talk by the hour, and no one be any the wiser.
Probably, he was a discreet man, and thought it best to waive
an interview with the lords of the admiralty.

For some time past, this extremely suspicious character had
been carrying on the illicit trade in French wines and brandies,
smuggled over from the men-of-war lately touching at Tahiti.
In a grove near the anchorage, he had a rustic shanty and
arbor; where, in quiet times, when no ships were in Taloo, a
stray native once in a while got boozy, and staggered home,
catching at the cocoa-nut trees as he went. The captain himself
lounged under a tree during the warm afternoons, pipe in
mouth; thinking perhaps, over old times, and occasionally feeling
his shoulders for his lost epaulets.

But, sail ho! a ship is descried coming into the bay. Soon,
she drops her anchor in its waters; and the next day Captain
Crash entertains the sailors in his grove. And rare times they
have of it:—drinking and quarreling together, as sociably as
you please.

Upon one of these occasions, the crew of the Leviathan made

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[figure description] Page 369.[end figure description]

so prodigious a tumult, that the natives, indignant at the insult
offered their laws, plucked up a heart, and made a dash at the
rioters, one hundred strong. The sailors fought like tigers; but
were at last overcome, and carried before a native tribunal;
which, after a mighty clamor, dismissed every body but
Captain Crash, who was asserted to be the author of the disorders.

Upon this charge, then, he had been placed in confinement
against the coming on of the assizes; the judge being expected to
lounge along in the course of the afternoon. While waiting his
Honor's arrival, numerous additional offenses were preferred
against the culprit (mostly by the old women); among others
was the bit of a slip in which he stood implicated along with
the young lady. Thus, in Polynesia as elsewhere;—charge a
man with one misdemeanor, and all his peccadilloes are raked
up and assorted before him.

Going to the school-house for the purpose of witnessing the
trial, the din of it assailed our ears a long ways off; and upon
entering the building, we were almost stunned. About five
hundred natives were present; each, apparently, having something
to say, and determined to say it. His Honor—a
handsome, benevolent-looking old man—sat cross-legged on
a little platform; seemingly resigned with all Christian submission
to the uproar. He was an hereditary chief in this
quarter of the island, and judge for life in the district of
Partoowye.

There were several cases coming on; but the captain and
girl were first tried together. They were mixing freely with
the crowd; and as it afterward turned out that every one—no
matter who—had a right to address the court, for aught we
knew they might have been arguing their own case. At what
precise moment the trial began, it would be hard to say.
There was no swearing of witnesses, and no regular

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[figure description] Page 370.[end figure description]

jury.[26] Now and then somebody leaped up and shouted out
something which might have been evidence; the rest, meanwhile,
keeping up an incessant jabbering. Presently, the old judge
himself began to get excited; and springing to his feet, ran in
among the crowd, wagging his tongue as hard as any body.

The tumult lasted about twenty minutes; and toward the
end of it, Captain Crash might have been seen, tranquilly regarding,
from his Honor's platform, the judicial uproar, in which
his fate was about being decided.

The result of all this was, that both he and the girl were
found guilty. The latter was adjudged to make six mats for
the queen; and the former, in consideration of his manifold
offenses, being deemed incorrigible, was sentenced to eternal
banishment from the island. Both these decrees seemed to
originate in the general hubbub. His Honor, however, appeared
to have considerable authority, and it was quite plain that
the decision received his approval.

The above penalties were by no means indiscriminately inflicted.
The missionaries have prepared a sort of penal tariff
to facilitate judicial proceedings. It costs so many days' labor
on the Broom Road to indulge in the pleasures of the calabash;
so many fathoms of stone wall to steal a musket; and so on to the
end of the catalogue. The judge being provided with a book, in
which all these matters are cunningly arranged, the thing is vastly
convenient. For instance: a crime is proved,—say, bigamy;
turn to letter B.—and there you have it. Bigamy:—forty days
on the Broom Road, and twenty mats for the queen. Read the
passage aloud, and sentence is pronounced.

After taking part in the first trial, the other delinquents present
were put upon their own; in which, also, the convicted

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culprits seemed to have quite as much to say as the rest. A
rather strange proceeding; but strictly in accordance with the
glorious English principle, that every man should be tried by
his peers.

They were all found guilty.

eaf274.n26

[26] This anomaly exists, notwithstanding that, in other respects, the
missionaries have endeavored to organize the native courts upon the English
model.

-- 372 --

p274-379 CHAPTER LXXX. QUEEN POMAREE.

[figure description] Page 372.[end figure description]

It is well to learn something about people before being introduced
to them; and so, we will here give some account of
Pomaree and her family.

Every reader of Cook's Voyages must remember “Otoo,”
who, in that navigator's time, was king of the larger peninsula
of Tahiti. Subsequently, assisted by the muskets of the
Bounty's men, he extended his rule over the entire island.
This Otoo, before his death, had his name changed into Pomaree,
which has ever since been the royal patronymic.

He was succeeded by his son, Pomaree II., the most famous
prince in the annals of Tahiti. Though a sad debauchee and
drunkard, and even charged with unnatural crimes, he was a
great friend of the missionaries, and one of their very first
proselytes. During the religious wars into which he was
hurried, by his zeal for the new faith, he was defeated, and
expelled from the island. After a short exile, he returned
from Imeeo, with an army of eight hundred warriors; and, in
the battle of Narii, routed the rebellious pagans with great
slaughter, and reëstablished himself upon the throne. Thus,
by force of arms, was Christianity finally triumphant in
Tahiti.

Pomaree II. dying, in 1821, was succeeded by his infant
son, under the title of Pomaree III. This young prince survived
his father but six years; and the government then descended
to his elder sister, Aimata, the present queen, who is commonly

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[figure description] Page 373.[end figure description]

called Pomaree Vahinee I., or the first female Pomaree. Her
majesty must be now upward of thirty years of age. She has
been twice married. Her first husband was a son of the old
King of Tahar, an island about one hundred miles from Tahiti.
This proving an unhappy alliance, the pair were soon after
divorced. The present husband of the queen is a chief of Imeeo.

The reputation of Pomaree is not what it ought to be. She,
and also her mother, were, for a long time, excommunicated
members of the Church; and the former, I believe, still is.
Among other things, her conjugal fidelity is far from being
unquestioned. Indeed, it was upon this ground, chiefly, that
she was excluded from the communion of the Church.

Previous to her misfortunes, she spent the greater portion
of her time sailing about from one island to another, attended
by a licentious court; and wherever she went, all manner of
games and festivities celebrated her arrival.

She was always given to display. For several years, the
maintenance of a regiment of household troops drew largely
upon the royal exchequer. They were trowserless fellows, in
a uniform of calico shirts and pasteboard hats; armed with
muskets of all shapes and calibres, and commanded by a great
noisy chief, strutting it in a coat of fiery red. These heroes
escorted their mistress whenever she went abroad.

Some time ago, the queen received from her English sister,
Victoria, a very showy, though uneasy, headdress—a crown;
probably made to order, at some tinman's in London. Having
no idea of reserving so pretty a bauble for coronation days,
which come so seldom, her majesty sported it whenever she
appeared in public; and, to show her familiarity with European
customs, politely touched it to all foreigners of distinction—
whaling captains, and the like—whom she happened to meet in
her evening walk on the Broom Road.

The arrival and departure of royalty were always announced

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at the palace by the court artilleryman—a fat old gentleman,
who, in a prodigious hurry and perspiration, discharged minute
fowling-pieces, as fast as he could load and fire the same.

The Tahitian princess leads her husband a hard life. Poor
fellow! he not only caught a queen, but a Tartar, when he
married her. The style by which he is addressed is rather
significant—“Pomaree-Tanee” (Pomaree's man). All things
considered, as appropriate a title for a king-consort as could be
hit upon.

If ever there were a henpecked husband, that man is the
prince. One day, his cara-sposa, giving audience to a deputation
from the captains of the vessels lying in Papeetee, he ventured
to make a suggestion which was very displeasing to her.
She turned round, and, boxing his ears, told him to go over to
his beggarly island of Imeeo, if he wanted to give himself airs.

Cuffed and contemned, poor Tanee flies to the bottle, or
rather, to the calabash, for solace. Like his wife and mistress,
he drinks more than he ought.

Six or seven years ago, when an American man-of-war was
lying at Papeetee, the town was thrown into the greatest commotion
by a conjugal assault and battery, made upon the sacred
person of Pomaree by her intoxicated Tanee.

Captain Bob once told me the story. And by way of throwing
more spirit into the description, as well as to make up for
his oral deficiencies, the old man went through the accompanying
action: myself being proxy for the Queen of Tahiti.

It seems, that on a Sunday morning, being dismissed contemptuously
from the royal presence, Tanee was accosted by
certain good fellows, friends and boon companions, who condoled
with him on his misfortunes—railed against the queen,
and finally dragged him away to an illicit vender of spirits, in
whose house the party got gloriously mellow. In this state,
Pomaree Vahinee I., was the topic upon which all dilated—

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“A vixen of a queen,” probably suggested one. “Its infamous,”
said another; “and I'd have satisfaction,” cried a third.
“And so I will!”—Tanee must have hiccoughed; for off he
went; and ascertaining that his royal half was out riding, he
mounted his horse, and galloped after her.

Near the outskirts of the town, a cavalcade of women came
cantering toward him, in the centre of which was the object of
his fury. Smiting his beast right and left, he dashed in among
them; completely overturning one of the party, leaving her on
the field, and dispersing every body else except Pomaree.
Backing her horse dextrously, the incensed queen heaped
upon him every scandalous epithet she could think of; until at
last, the enraged Tanee leaped out of his saddle, caught Pomaree
by her dress, and dragging her to the earth, struck her repeatedly
in the face, holding on meanwhile by the hair of her head.
He was proceeding to strangle her on the spot, when the cries
of the frightened attendants brought a crowd of natives to the
rescue, who bore the nearly insensible queen away.

But his frantic rage was not yet sated. He ran to the palace;
and before it could be prevented, demolished a valuable supply
of crockery, a recent present from abroad. In the act of
perpetrating some other atrocity, he was seized from behind,
and carried off with rolling eyes and foaming at the mouth.

This is a fair example of a Tahitian in a passion. Though
the mildest of mortals in general, and hard to be roused, when
once fairly up, he is possessed with a thousand devils.

The day following, Tanee was privately paddled over to
Imeeo, in a canoe; where, after remaining in banishment for a
couple of weeks, he was allowed to return, and once more give
in his domestic adhesion.

Though Pomaree Vahinee I. be something of a Jezebel in
private life, in her public rule, she is said to have been quite
lenient and forbearing. This was her true policy; for an

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[figure description] Page 376.[end figure description]

hereditary hostility to her family had always lurked in the
hearts of many powerful chiefs, the descendants of the old
Kings of Taiarboo, dethroned by her grandfather Otoo. Chief
among these, and in fact the leader of his party, was Poofai; a
bold, able man, who made no secret of his enmity to the missionaries,
and the government which they controlled. But
while events were occurring calculated to favor the hopes of
the disaffected and turbulent, the arrival of the French gave a
most unexpected turn to affairs.

During my sojourn in Tahiti, a report was rife—which I
knew to originate with what is generally called the “missionary
party”—that Poofai and some other chiefs of note, had actually
agreed, for a stipulated bribe, to acquiesce in the appropriation
of their country. But subsequent events have rebutted the
calumny. Several of these very men have recently died in
battle against the French.

Under the sovereignty of the Pomarees, the great chiefs of
Tahiti were something like the barons of King John. Holding
feudal sway over their patrimonial valleys, and on account of
their descent, warmly beloved by the people, they frequently
cut off the royal revenues by refusing to pay the customary
tribute due from them as vassals.

The truth is, that with the ascendency of the missionaries,
the regal office in Tahiti lost much of its dignity and influence.
In the days of Paganism, it was supported by all the power of
a numerous priesthood, and was solemnly connected with the
entire superstitious idolatry of the land. The monarch claimed
to be a sort of bye-blow of Tararroa, the Saturn of the Polynesian
mythology, and cousin-german to inferior deities. His
person was thrice holy; if he entered an ordinary dwelling,
never mind for how short a time, it was demolished when he
left; no common mortal being thought worthy to inhabit it
afterward.

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[figure description] Page 377.[end figure description]

“I'm a greater man than King George,” said the incorrigible
young Otoo, to the first missionaries; “he rides on a horse, and
I on a man.” Such was the case. He traveled post through
his dominions on the shoulders of his subjects; and relays of
immortal beings were provided in all the valleys.

But alas! how times have changed; how transient human
greatness. Some years since, Pomaree Vahinee I., the granddaughter
of the proud Otoo, went into the laundry business;
publicly soliciting, by her agents, the washing of the linen belonging
to the officers of ships touching in her harbors.

It is a significant fact, and one worthy of record, that while
the influence of the English missionaries at Tahiti has tended
to so great a diminution of the regal dignity there, that of the
American missionaries at the Sandwich Islands, has been purposely
exerted to bring about a contrary result.

-- 378 --

p274-385 CHAPTER LXXXI. WE VISIT THE COURT.

[figure description] Page 378.[end figure description]

It was about the middle of the second month of the Hegira,
and therefore some five weeks after our arrival in Partoowye,
that we at last obtained admittance to the residence of the
queen.

It happened thus. There was a Marquesan in the train of
Pomaree, who officiated as nurse to her children. According
to the Tahitian custom, the royal youngsters are carried about
until it requires no small degree of strength to stand up under
them. But Marbonna was just the man for this—large and
muscular, well made as a statue, and with an arm like a degenerate
Tahitian's thigh.

Embarking at his native island, as a sailor, on board of a
French whaler, he afterward ran away from the ship at Tahiti;
where, being seen and admired by Pomaree, he had been prevailed
upon to enlist in her service.

Often, when visiting the grounds, we saw him walking about
in the shade, carrying two handsome boys, who encircled his
neck with their arms. Marbonna's face, tattooed as it was
in the ornate style of his tribe, was as good as a picture-book to
these young Pomarees. They delighted to trace with their
fingers, the outlines of the strange shapes there delineated.

The first time my eyes lighted upon the Marquesan, I knew
his country in a moment; and hailing him in his own language,
he turned round, surprised that a person so speaking should be
a stranger. He proved to be a native of Tior, a glen of

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Nukuheva. I had visited the place more than once; and so, on the
island of Imeeo, we met like old friends.

In my frequent conversations with him over the bamboo
picket, I found this islander a philosopher of nature—a wild
heathen, moralizing upon the vices and follies of the Christian
court of Tahiti—a savage, scorning the degeneracy of the people
among whom fortune had thrown him.

I was amazed at the national feelings of the man. No European,
when abroad, could speak of his country with more pride
than Marbonna. He assured me, again and again, that so soon
as he had obtained sufficient money to purchase twenty muskets,
and as many bags of powder, he was going to return to a place,
with which Imeeo was not worthy to be compared.

It was Marbonna, who, after one or two unsuccessful attempts,
at last brought about our admission into the queen's
grounds. Through a considerable crowd, he conducted us
along the pier to where an old man was sitting; to whom he
introduced us as a couple of “karhowrees” of his acquaintance,
anxious to see the sights of the palace. The venerable chamberlain
stared at us, and shook his head: the doctor, thinking
he wanted a fee, placed a plug of tobacco in his hand. This
was ingratiating, and we were permitted to pass on. Upon
the point of entering one of the houses, Marbonna's name was
shouted in half-a-dozen different directions, and he was obliged
to withdraw.

Thus left at the very threshold to shift for ourselves, my
companion's assurance stood us in good stead. He stalked right
in, and I followed. The place was full of women, who, instead
of exhibiting the surprise we expected, accosted us as cordially
as if we had called to take our Souchong with them, by express
invitation. In the first place, nothing would do but we must
each devour a calabash of “poee,” and several roasted bananas.
Pipes were then lighted, and a brisk conversation ensued.

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These ladies of the court, if not very polished, were surprisingly
free and easy in their manners; quite as much so as
King Charles's Beauties. There was one of them—an arch
little miss, who could converse with us pretty fluently—to whom
we strove to make ourselves particularly agreeable, with the
view of engaging her services as cicerone.

As such, she turned out to be every thing we could desire.
No one disputing her will, every place was entered without
ceremony, curtains brushed aside, mats lifted, and each nook
and corner explored. Whether the little damsel carried her
mistress' signet, that every thing opened to her thus, I know
not; but Marbonna himself, the bearer of infants, could not
have been half so serviceable.

Among other houses which we visited, was one of large size
and fine exterior; the special residence of a European—formerly
the mate of a merchant vessel,—who had done himself the honor
of marrying into the Pomaree family. The lady he wedded being
a near kinswoman of the queen, he became a permanent member
of her majesty's household. This adventurer rose late,
dressed theatrically in calico and trinkets, assumed a dictatorial
tone in conversation, and was evidently upon excellent terms
with himself.

We found him reclining on a mat, smoking a reed-pipe of tobacco,
in the midst of an admiring circle of chiefs and ladies.
He must have noticed our approach; but instead of rising
and offering civilities, he went on talking and smoking, without
even condescending to look at us.

“His Highness feels his `poee,”' carelessly observed the doctor.
The rest of the company gave us the ordinary salutation,
our guide announcing us beforehand.

In answer to our earnest requests to see the queen, we were
now conducted to an edifice, by far the most spacious, in the
inclosure. It was at least one hundred and fifty feet in length,

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very wide, with low eaves, and an exceedingly steep roof of
pandannas leaves. There were neither doors nor windows—
nothing along the sides but the slight posts supporting the rafters.
Between these posts, curtains of fine matting and tappa
were rustling, all round; some of them were festooned, or
partly withdrawn, so as to admit light and air, and afford a
glimpse now and then of what was going on within.

Pushing aside one of the screens, we entered. The apartment
was one immense hall; the long and lofty ridge-pole fluttering
with fringed matting and tassels, full forty feet from the
ground. Lounges of mats, piled one upon another, extended
on either side; while here and there were slight screens, forming
as many recesses, where groups of natives—all females—
were reclining at their evening meal.

As we advanced, these various parties ceased their buzzing,
and in explanation of our appearance among them, listened to
a few cabalistic words from our guide.

The whole scene was a strange one; but what most excited
our surprise, was the incongruous assemblage of the most costly
objects from all quarters of the globe. Cheek by jowl, they
lay beside the rudest native articles, without the slightest attempt
at order. Superb writing-desks of rose-wood, inlaid
with silver and mother-of-pearl; decanters and goblets of cut
glass; embossed volumes of plates; gilded candelabras; sets
of globes and mathematical instruments; the finest porcelain;
richly mounted sabres and fowling-pieces; laced hats and sumptuous
garments of all sorts, with numerous other matters of
European manufacture, were strewn about among greasy calabashes
half-filled with “poee,” rolls of old tappa and matting,
paddles and fish-spears, and the ordinary furniture of a Tahitian
dwelling.

All the articles first mentioned, were, doubtless, presents
from foreign powers. They were more or less injured: the

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fowling-pieces and swords were rusted; the finest woods were
scratched; and a folio volume of Hogarth lay open, with a
cocoa-nut shell of some musty preparation capsized among the
miscellaneous furniture of the Rake's apartment, where that
inconsiderate young gentleman is being measured for a coat.

While we were amusing ourselves in this museum of curiosities,
our conductor plucked us by the sleeve, and whispered,
“Pomaree! Pomaree! aramai kow kow.”

“She is coming to sup, then,” said the doctor, staring in the
direction indicated. “What say you, Paul, suppose we step
up?” Just then a curtain near by, lifted; and from a private
building a few yards distant, the queen entered, unattended.

She wore a loose gown of blue silk, with two rich shawls,
one red and the other yellow, tied about her neck. Her royal
majesty was barefooted.

She was about the ordinary size, rather matronly; her features
not very handsome; her mouth, voluptuous; but there was
a care-worn expression in her face, probably attributable to her
late misfortunes. From her appearance, one would judge her
about forty; but she is not so old.

As the queen approached one of the recesses, her attendants
hurried up, escorted her in, and smoothed the mats on which
she at last reclined. Two girls soon appeared, carrying their
mistress' repast; and then, surrounded by cut-glass and porcelain,
and jars of sweetmeats and confections, Pomaree Vahinee
I., the titular Queen of Tahiti, ate fish and poee out of her
native calabashes, disdaining either knife or spoon.

“Come on,” whispered Long Ghost, “let's have an audience
at once;” and he was on the point of introducing himself, when
our guide, quite alarmed, held him back, and implored silence.
The other natives also interfered; and as he was pressing forward,
raised such an outcry, that Pomaree lifted her eyes, and
saw us for the first.

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She seemed surprised, and offended; and issuing an order
in a commanding tone to several of her women, waved us out
of the house. Summary as the dismissal was, court etiquet, no
doubt, required our compliance. We withdrew; making a profound
inclination as we disappeared behind the tappa arras.

We departed the grounds without seeing Marbonna; and
previous to vaulting over the picket, feed our pretty guide, after
a fashion of our own. Looking round a few moments after,
we saw the damsel escorted back by two men, who seemed to
have been sent after her. I trust she received nothing more
than a reprimand.

The next day Po-Po informed us that strict orders had been
issued, to admit no strangers within the palace precincts.

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p274-391 CHAPTER LXXXII. WHICH ENDS THE BOOK.

[figure description] Page 384.[end figure description]

Disappointed in going to court, we determined upon going
to sea. It would never do, longer to trespass on Po-Po's
hospitality; and then, weary somewhat of life in Imeeo, like
all sailors ashore, I at last pined for the billows.

Now, if her crew were to be credited, the Leviathan was
not the craft to our mind. But I had seen the captain, and
liked him. He was an uncommonly tall, robust, fine-looking
man, in the prime of life. There was a deep crimson spot in
the middle of each sun-burnt cheek, doubtless the effect of his
sea-potations. He was a Vinyarder, or native of the island of
Martha's Vinyard (adjoining Nantucket), and—I would have
sworn it—a sailor, and no tyrant.

Previous to this, we had rather avoided the Leviathan's
men, when they came ashore; but now, we purposely threw
ourselves in their way, in order to learn more of the vessel.

We became acquainted with the third mate, a Prussian, and
an old merchant seaman—a right jolly fellow, with a face like
a ruby. We took him to Po-Po's, and gave him a dinner
of baked pig and bread-fruit; with pipes and tobacco for
dessert. The account he gave us of the ship, agreed with my
own surmises. A cosier old craft never floated; and the
captain was the finest man in the world. There was plenty to
eat, too; and, at sea, nothing to do but sit on the windlass and
sail. The only bad trait about the vessel was this: she had

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been lanched under some baleful star; and so, was a luckless
ship in the fishery. She dropped her boats into the brine
often enough, and they frequently got fast to the whales; but
lance and harpoon almost invariably “drew” when darted by
the men of the Leviathan. But what of that? We would
have all the sport of chasing the monsters, with none of the
detestable work which follows their capture. So, hurrah for
the coast of Japan! Thither the ship was bound.

A word now, about the hard stories we heard, the first time
we visited the ship. They were nothing but idle fictions, got
up by the sailors for the purpose of frightening us away, so as
to oblige the captain, who was in want of more hands, to lie
the longer in a pleasant harbor.

The next time the Vinyarder came ashore, we flung ourselves
in his path. When informed of our desire to sail with
him, he wanted to know our history; and, above all, what
countrymen we were. We said, that we had left a whaler in
Tahiti, some time previous; and, since then, had been—in the
most praiseworthy manner—employed upon a plantation. As
for our country, sailors belong to no nation in particular; we
were, on this occasion, both Yankees. Upon this he looked
decidedly incredulous; and freely told us, that he verily believed
we were both from Sydney.

Be it known here, that American sea captains, in the Pacific,
are mortally afraid of these Sydney gentry; who, to tell the
truth, wherever known, are in excessively bad odor. Is there
a mutiny on board a ship in the South Seas, ten to one a
Sydney man is the ringleader. Ashore, these fellows are
equally riotous.

It was on this account, that we were anxious to conceal the
fact of our having belonged to the Julia; though it annoyed
me much, thus to deny the dashing little craft. For the same
reason, also, the doctor fibbed about his birth-place.

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Unfortunately, one part of our raiment—Arfretee's blue
frocks—was deemed a sort of collateral evidence against us.
For, curiously enough, an American sailor is generally distinguished
by his red frock; and an English tar, by his blue one:
thus reversing the national colors. The circumstance was
pointed out by the captain; and we quickly explained the
anomaly. But, in vain: he seemed inveterately prejudiced
against us; and, in particular, eyed the doctor most distrustfully.

By way of propping the latter's pretensions, I was throwing
out a hint concerning Kentucky, as a land of tall men,
when our Vinyarder turned away abruptly, and desired to
hear nothing more. It was evident that he took Long Ghost
for an exceedingly problematical character.

Perceiving this, I resolved to see what a private interview
would do. So, one afternoon, I found the captain smoking a
pipe in the dwelling of a portly old native—one Mai-Mai—
who, for a reasonable compensation, did the honors of Partoowye,
to illustrious strangers.

His guest had just risen from a sumptuous meal of baked
pig and taro pudding; and the remnants of the repast were
still visible. Two reeking bottles, also, with their necks
wrenched off, lay upon the mat. All this was encouraging;
for, after a good dinner, one feels affluent and amiable, and
peculiarly open to conviction. So, at all events, I found the
noble Vinyarder.

I began by saying, that I called for the purpose of setting
him right, touching certain opinions of his concerning the
place of my nativity:—I was an American—thank Heaven!—
and wanted to convince him of the fact.

After looking me in the eye for some time, and, by so doing,
revealing an obvious unsteadiness in his own visual organs,
he begged me to reach forth my arm. I did so; wondering

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what upon earth that useful member had to do with the
matter in hand.

He placed his fingers upon my wrist; and holding them
there for a moment, sprang to his feet; and, with much enthusiasm,
pronounced me a Yankee, every beat of my pulse!

“Here, Mai-Mai!” he cried, “another bottle!” And, when
it came, with one stroke of a knife, he summarily beheaded it,
and commanded me to drain it to the bottom. He then told me,
that if I would come on board his vessel the following morning,
I would find the ship's articles on the cabin transom.

This was getting along famously. But what was to become
of the doctor?

I forthwith made an adroit allusion to my long friend. But
it was worse than useless. The Vinyarder swore he would
have nothing to do with him—he (my long friend) was a “bird”
from Sydney, and nothing would make him (the man of little
faith) believe otherwise.

I could not help loving the free-hearted captain; but indignant
at this most unaccountable prejudice against my comrade,
I abruptly took leave.

Upon informing the doctor of the result of the interview, he
was greatly amused; and laughingly declared, that the Vinyarder
must be a penetrating fellow. He then insisted upon
my going to sea in the ship, since he well knew, how anxious I
was to leave. As for himself, on second thoughts, he was no
sailor; and although “landsmen” very often compose part of a
whaler's crew, he did not quite relish the idea of occupying a
position so humble. In short, he had made up his mind to
tarry awhile in Imeeo.

I turned the matter over; and at last decided upon quitting
the island. The impulse urging me to sea once more, and the
prospect of eventually reaching home, were too much to be
resisted; especially, as the Leviathan was so comfortable a

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craft, was now bound on her last whaling cruise, and, in little
more than a year's time, would be going round Cape Horn.

I did not, however, covenant to remain in the vessel for the
residue of the voyage; which would have been needlessly
binding myself. I merely stipulated for the coming cruise,
leaving my subsequent movements, unrestrained; for, there
was no knowing that I might not change my mind, and prefer
journeying home by short and easy stages.

The next day I paddled off to the ship, signed and sealed,
and stepped ashore with my “advance”—fifteen Spanish dollars,
tasseling the ends of my neck-handkerchief.

I forced half of the silver on Long Ghost; and having little
use for the remainder, would have given it to Po-Po as some
small return for his kindness; but, although he well knew the
value of the coin, not a dollar would he accept.

In three days time, the Prussian came to Po-Po's, and told us,
that the captain, having made good the number of his crew, by
shipping several islanders, had determined upon sailing with
the land breeze, at dawn the following morning. These tidings
were received in the afternoon. The doctor immediately disappeared,
returning soon after with a couple of flasks of wine concealed
in the folds of his frock. Through the agency of the Marquesan,
he had purchased them from an understrapper of the
court.

I prevailed upon Po-Po to drink a parting shell; and even little
Loo, actually looking conscious that one of her hopeless admirers
was about leaving Partoowye forever, sipped a few drops from
a folded leaf. As for the warm-hearted Arfretee, her grief was
unbounded. She even besought me to spend my last night under
her own palm-thatch; and then, in the morning, she would
herself paddle me off to the ship.

But this I would not consent to; and so, as something to remember
her by, she presented me with a roll of fine matting,

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and another of tappa. These gifts placed in my hammock, I
afterward found very agreeable in the warm latitudes to which
we were bound; nor did they fail to awaken most grateful remembrances.

About nightfall, we broke away from this generous-hearted
household, and hurried down to the water.

It was a mad, merry night among the sailors: they had on
tap a small cask of wine, procured in the same way as the doctor's
flasks.

An hour or two after midnight, every thing was noiseless;
but when the first streak of the dawn showed itself over the
mountains, a sharp voice hailed the forecastle, and ordered the
ship unmoored. The anchors came up cheerily; the sails were
soon set; and with the early breath of the tropical morning, fresh
and fragrant from the hillsides, we slowly glided down the bay,
and were swept through the opening in the reef. Presently,
we “hove to,” and the canoes came alongside to take off the
islanders who had accompanied us thus far. As he stepped
over the side, I shook the doctor long and heartily, by the hand.
I have never seen or heard of him since.

Crowding all sail, we braced the yards square; and, the
breeze freshening, bowled straight away from the land. Once
more the sailor's cradle rocked under me, and I found myself
rolling in my gait.

By noon, the island had gone down in the horizon; and all
before us was the wide Pacific.

THE END.

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Melville, Herman, 1819-1891 [1847], Omoo: a narrative of adventures in the south seas (Harper & Brothers, New York) [word count] [eaf274].
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