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Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth, 1807-1882 [1833], Outre-mer, volume 2 (Hilliard, Gray & Co., Boston) [word count] [eaf258v2].
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Main text THE VALLEY OF THE LOIRE.

Je ne conçois qu'une manière de voyager plus agréable que d'aller
à cheval; c'est d'aller à pied. On part à son moment, on s'arrête à
sa volonté, on fait tant et si pen d'exercise qu'on veut.

Quand on ne veut qu'arriver, on peut courir en chaise de poste; mais
quand on veut voyager, il fant aller à pied.

Rousseau.

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Beside the murmuring Loire,
Where shading elms along the margin grew,
And freshened from the wave the zephyr flew.
Goldsmith.

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In the melancholy month of October I
made a foot-excursion along the banks of the
Loire, from Orleans to Tours. This luxuriant
region is justly called the Garden of France.
From Orleans to Blois the whole valley of the
Loire is one continued vineyard. The bright
green foliage of the vine spreads, like the undulations
of the sea, over all the landscape; with
here and there a silver flash of the river,—
a sequestered hamlet,—or the towers of an old
chateau, to enliven and variegate the scene.

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The vintage had already commenced. The
peasantry were busy in the fields,—the song
that cheered their labor was on the breeze, and
the heavy wagon tottered by, laden with the
clusters of the vine. Every thing around me
wore that happy look, which makes the heart
glad. In the morning I arose with the lark;
and at night I slept where sunset overtook me.
The healthy exercise of foot-travelling,—the
pure, bracing air of Autumn, and the cheerful
aspect of the whole landscape about me, gave
fresh elasticity to a mind not over-burdened
with care, and made me forget, not only the
fatigue of walking, but also the consciousness
of being alone.

My first day's journey brought me at
evening to a village, whose name I have forgotten,
situated about eight leagues from
Orleans. It is a small, obscure hamlet, not
mentioned in the guide-book, and stands upon
the precipitous banks of a deep ravine, through
which a noisy brook leaps down to turn the
ponderous wheel of a thatch-roofed mill. The
village inn stands upon the high-way; but the
village itself is not visible to the traveller as

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he passes. It is completely hidden in the lap
of a wooded valley; and so embowered in
trees, that not a roof nor a chimney peeps out
to betray its hiding place. It is like the nest
of a ground-swallow, which the passing footstep
almost treads upon, and yet it is not seen.
I passed by without suspecting, that a village
was near; and the little inn had a look so
uninviting, that I did not even enter it.

After proceeding a mile or two farther, I perceived,
upon my left, a village spire, rising over
the vineyards. Towards this I directed my footsteps;
but it seemed to recede as I advanced,
and at last quite disappeared. It was evidently
many miles distant; and as the path I followed
descended from the highway, it had gradually
sunk beneath a swell of the vine-clad landscape.
I now found myself in the midst of an extensive
vineyard. It was just sunset; and the last
golden rays lingered on the rich and mellow
scenery around me. The peasantry were still
busy at their task; and the occasional bark of
a dog, and the distant sound of an evening bell
gave fresh romance to the scene. The reality
of many a day-dream of childhood,—of many a

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poetic revery of youth was before me. I stood at
sunset amid the luxuriant vineyards of France!

The first person I met was a poor old
woman, a little bowed down with age, gathering
grapes into a large basket. She was
dressed like the poorest class of peasantry;
and pursued her solitary task alone, heedless of
the cheerful gossip, and the merry laugh,
which came from a band of more youthful
vintagers, at a short distance from her. She
was so intently engaged in her work, that she
did not perceive my approach, until I bade her
good evening. On hearing my voice, she
looked up from her labor, and returned the
salutation: and on my asking her if there were
a tavern, or a farm-house in the neighborhood,
where I could pass the night, she showed
me the pathway through the vineyard, that led
to the village, and then added, with a look of
curiosity;

“You must be a stranger, Sir, in these
parts.”

“Yes; my home is very far from here.”

“How far?”

“More than a thousand leagues.”

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The old woman looked incredulous.

“I came from a distant land, beyond the
sea.”

“More than a thousand leagues!” at
length repeated she; “And why have you
come so far from home?”

“To travel;—to see how you live in this
country.”

“Have you no relations in your own?”

“Yes; I have both brothers and sisters; a
father, and—”

“And a mother?”

“Thank heaven, I have.”

“And did you leave her!

Here the old woman gave me a piercing
look of reproof; shook her head mournfully,
and, with a deep sigh, as if some painful recollection
had been awakened in her bosom,
turned again to her solitary task. I felt
rebuked; for there is something almost prophetic
in the admonitions of the old. The eye
of age looks meekly into my heart! the voice
of age echoes mournfully through it! the hoary
head and palsied hand of age plead irresistibly
for its sympathies! I venerate old age; and

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I love not the man, who can look without
emotion upon the sundown of life, when the
dusk of evening begins to gather over the watery
eye, and the shadows of twilight grow
broader and deeper upon the understanding!

I pursued the path-way which led toward
the village, and the next person I encountered
was an old man stretched lazily beneath the
vines upon a little strip of turf, at a point
where four paths met, forming a cross-way in
the vineyard. He was clad in a coarse garb
of gray, with a pair of long gaiters or spatter-dashes.
Beside him lay a blue cloth cap, a
staff, and an old weather-beaten knapsack. I
saw at once, that he was a foot-traveller like
myself, and, therefore, without more ado,
entered into conversation with him. From his
language, and the peculiar manner in which he
now and then wiped his upper lip with the back
of his hand, as if in search of the mustache,
which was no longer there, I judged that he
had been a soldier. In this opinion I was not
mistaken. He had served under Napoleon,
and had followed the imperial eagle across the
Alps, and the Pyrenees, and the burning sands

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of Egypt. Like every vieux moustache, he
spake with enthusiasm of the Little Corporal,
and cursed the English, the Germans, the
Spanish, and every other race on earth, except
the great nation—his own.

“I like,” said he, “after a long day's march,
to lie down in this way upon the grass, and
enjoy the cool of the evening. It reminds me
of the bivouacs of other days, and of old
friends, who are now up there.”

Here he pointed with his finger to the sky.

“They have reached the last étape before
me, in the long march. But I shall go soon.
We shall all meet again at the last roll-call.
A soldier has a heart,—and can feel like other
men. Sacré nom de—! There's a tear!”

He wiped it away with his sleeve.

Here our colloquy was interrupted by the
approach of a group of vintagers, who were
returning homeward from their labor. To this
party I joined myself, and invited the old soldier
to do the same; but he shook his head.

“I thank you; my path-way lies in a different
direction.”

“But there is no other village near, and the
sun has already set.”

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“No matter. I am used to sleeping on the
ground. Good night.”

I left the old man to his meditations, and
walked on in company with the vintagers.
Following a well-trodden path-way through the
vineyards, we soon descended the valley's slope,
and I suddenly found myself in the bosom of
one of those little hamlets, from which the laborer
rises to his toil, as the sky-lark to his song.
My companions wished me a good night, as
each entered his own thatch-roofed cottage,—
and a little girl led me out to the very inn,
which an hour or two before, I had disdained
to enter.

When I awoke in the morning, a brilliant
Autumnal sun was shining in at my window.
The merry song of birds mingled sweetly with
the sound of rustling leaves, and the gurgle of
the brook. The vintagers were going forth to
their toil; the wine-press was busy in the
shade, and the clatter of the mill kept time to
the miller's song. I loitered about the village
with a feeling of calm delight. I was unwilling
to leave the seclusion of this sequestered hamlet;—
but at length, with reluctant step, I took

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the cross-road through the vineyard, and in a
moment the little village had sunk again, as if
by enchantment, into the bosom of the earth.

I breakfasted at the town of Mer; and
leaving the high-road to Blois on the right,
passed down to the banks of the Loire, through
a long, broad avenue of poplars and sicamores.
I crossed the river in a boat, and in the after
part of the day, found myself before the high
and massive walls of the chateau of Chambord.
This chateau is one of the finest specimens of
the ancient Gothic castle to be found in Europe.
The little river Cosson fills its deep and
ample moat, and above it, the huge towers and
heavy battlements rise in stern and solemn
grandeur, moss-grown with age, and blackened
by the storms of three centuries. Within, all
is mournful and deserted. The grass has overgrown
the pavement of the court-yard,—and
the rude sculpture upon the walls is broken and
defaced. From the court-yard I entered the
central tower, and ascending the principal
stair-case, went out upon the battlements. I
seemed to have stepped back into the precincts
of the feudal ages; and as I passed

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along through echoing corridors, and vast, deserted
halls, stripped of their furniture, and
mouldering silently away, the distant past came
back upon me, and the times when the clang
of arms, and the tramp of mail-clad men, and
the sounds of music, and revelry and wassail
echoed along those high-vaulted and solitary
chambers!

My third day's journey brought me to the
ancient city of Blois, the chief town of the department
of Loire-et-Cher. This city is celebrated
for the purity with which even the lower
classes of its inhabitants speak their native
tongue. It rises precipitously from the northern
bank of the Loire; and many of its streets
are so steep as to be almost impassible for carriages.
On the brow of the hill, overlooking
the roofs of the city, and commanding a fine
view of the Loire and its noble bridge, and the
surrounding country, sprinkled with cottages
and country-seats, runs an ample terrace,
planted with trees, and laid out as a public
walk. The view from this terrace is one of
the most beautiful in France. But what most
strikes the eye of the traveller at Blois is an

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old, though still unfinished chateau. Its huge
parapets of hewn stone stand upon either side
of the street; but they have walled up the
wide gate-way, from which the colossal draw-bridge
was to have sprung high in air, connecting
together the main towers of the chateau,
and the two hills, upon whose slope its
foundations stand. The aspect of the vast pile
is gloomy and desolate. It seems as if the
strong hand of the builder had been arrested in
the midst of his task by the stronger hand of
death; and the unfinished fabric stands a lasting
monument both of the power and weakness
of man,—of his vast desires,—his sanguine
hopes,—his ambitious purposes,—and of the
unlooked-for conclusion, where all these desires,
and hopes, and purposes are so often arrested.—
There is also at Blois another ancient
chateau, to which some historic interest is attached,
as being the scene of the massacre of
the Duke of Guise.

On the following day I left Blois for Amboise,
and after walking several leagues along
the dusty highway, crossed the river in a boat
to the little village of Moines, which lies amid

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luxuriant vineyards upon the southern bank of
the Loire. From Moines to Amboise the
road is truly delightful. The rich lowland
scenery by the margin of the river is verdant
even in October; and occasionally the landscape
is diversified with the picturesque cottages
of the vintagers, cut in the rock along
the road-side, and overhung by the thick foliage
of the vines above them.

At Amboise I took a cross-road, which
led me to the romantic borders of the Cher, and
the chateau of Chernanceau. This beautiful
chateau, as well as that of Chambord, was
built by the gay and munificent Francis the
First. One is a specimen of strong and massive
architecture—a dwelling for a warrior;—
but the other is of a lighter and more graceful
construction, and was destined for those soft
languishments of passion, with which the fascinating
Diane de Poitiers had filled the bosom
of that voluptuous monarch.

The chateau of Chernanceau is built upon
arches across the river Cher, whose waters are
made to supply the deep moat at each extremity.
There is a spacious court-yard in front,

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from which a draw-bridge conducts to the outer
hall of the chateau. There the armor of Francis
the First still hangs upon the wall:—his
shield, and helm and lance as if the chivalrous
but dissolute prince had just exchanged
them for the silken robes of the drawing-room.
From this hall a door opens into a long gallery,
extending the whole length of the building
across the Cher. The walls of the gallery are
hung with the faded portraits of the long line of
the descendants of Hugh Capet; and the windows
looking up and down the stream, command
a fine reach of pleasant river scenery.
This is said to be the only chateau in France, in
which the ancient furniture of its original age
is preserved. In one part of the building, you
are shown the bed-chamber of Diane de Poitiers,
with its antique chairs covered with faded
damask and embroidery, her bed, and a portrait
of the royal favorite hanging over the mantel-piece.
In another, you see the apartment of
the infamous Catherine de Medici;—a venerable
arm-chair, and an autograph letter of Henry
the Fourth;—and in an old laboratory,
among broken crucibles, and neckless retorts,

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and drums and trumpets, and skins of wild
beasts, and other ancient lumber of various
kinds, are to be seen the bed-posts of Francis
the First!—Doubtless the naked walls and
the vast, solitary chambers of an old and desolate
chateau inspire a feeling of greater solemnity
and awe; but when the antique furniture of
the olden time remains—the faded tapestry on
the walls—and the arm-chair by the fire-side,
the effect upon the mind is more magical and
delightful. The old inhabitants of the place,
long gathered to their fathers, though living
still in history, seem to have left their halls for
the chace or the tournament; and as the heavy
door swings upon its reluctant hinge, one almost
expects to see the gallant princes and
courtly dames enter those halls again, and sweep
in stately procession along the silent corridors.

Wrapt in such fancies as these, and gazing
on the beauties of this noble chateau, and the
soft scenery around it, I lingered unwilling to
depart, till the rays of the setting sun, streaming
through the dusty windows, admonished
me that the day was drawing rapidly to a close.
I sallied forth from the southern gate of the

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chateau—and crossing the broken drawbridge,
pursued a pathway along the bank of the river,
still gazing back upon those towering walls,
now bathed in the rich glow of sunset, till a
turn in the road, and a clump of woodland at
length shut them out from my sight.

A short time after candle-lighting I reached
the little tavern of the Boule d'Or, a few
leagues from Tours, where I passed the night.
The following morning was lowering and sad.
A veil of mist hung over the landscape, and ever
and anon a heavy shower burst from the
over-burdened clouds, that were driving by before
a high and piercing wind. This unpropitious
state of the weather detained me until
noon; when a cabriolet for Tours drove up,
and taking a seat within it, I left the hostess of
the Boule d'Or in the middle of a long story
about a rich countess, who always alighted
there when she passed that way. We drove
leisurely along through a beautiful country, till
at length we came to the brow of a steep hill,
which commands a fine view of the city of
Tours and its delightful environs. But the
scene was shrouded by the heavy, drifting mist,

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through which, I could trace but indistinctly
the graceful sweep of the Loire, and the spires
and roofs of the city far below me.

The city of Tours and the delicious plain
in which it lies, have been too often described
by other travellers, to render a new description
from so listless a pen as mine, either necessary
or desirable. After a sojourn of two cloudy
and melancholy days, I set out on my return to
Paris, by the way of Vendôme and Chartres.
I stopped a few hours at the former place, to
examine the ruins of a chateau, built by Jeanne
d'Albret, mother of Henry the Fourth. It
stands upon the summit of a high and precipitous
hill, and almost overhangs the town beneath.
The French Revolution has completed
the ruin, that time had already begun; and
nothing now remains but a broken and crumbling
bastion, and here and there a solitary
tower dropping slowly to decay. In one of
these is the grave of Jeanne d'Albret. A marble
entablature in the wall above contains the
inscription, which is nearly effaced, though
enough still remains to tell the curious traveller,
that there lies buried the mother of the

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“Bon Henri.” To this is added a prayer,
that the repose of the dead may be respected;—
a prayer, which has been shamefully disregarded.

Here ended my foot-excursion. The object
of my journey was accomplished, and delighted
with this short ramble through the Valley
of the Loire, I took my seat in the Diligence
for Paris, and, on the following day, was
again swallowed up in the crowds of the metropolis,
like a drop in the bosom of the sea.

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THE ANCIENT LYRIC POETRY OF THE NORTH OF FRANCE.



Quant recommence et revient biaux estez,
Que foille et flor resplendit par boschage,
Que li froiz tanz de l'hyver est passez,
Et cil oisel chantent en lor langage,
Lors chanterai
Et envoisiez serai
De cuer verai.
Jaques de Chison.

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Quant voi la glaie meure,
Et le rosier espanir,
Et sur la bele verdure
La rousée resplendir,
Lors soupir
Pour cele que tant désir.
Raoul de Soissons.

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The literature of France is peculiarly rich
in poetry of the olden time. We can trace
up the stream of song until it is lost in the
deepening shadows of the Middle Ages. Even
there it is not a shallow, tinkling rill; but
it comes like a mountain stream, rushing and
sounding onward through the enchanted regions
of romance, and mingles its voice with
the tramp of steeds and the brazen sound of
arms.

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The glorious reign of Charlemagne 1 at the
close of the eighth and the commencement of
the ninth century, seems to have breathed a
spirit of literature as well as of chivalry
throughout all France. The monarch established
schools and academies in different parts
of his realm; and took delight in the society
and conversation of learned men. It is amusing
to see with what evident self-satisfaction
some of the magi, whom he gathered around

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him, speak of their exertions in widening the
sphere of human knowledge, and pouring in
light upon the darkness of their age. “For
some,” says Alcuin, the director of the school
of St Martin de Tours, “I cause the honey of
the holy scriptures to flow; I intoxicate others
with the old wine of ancient history; these I
nourish with the fruits of grammar, gathered
by my own hands; and those I enlighten by
pointing out to them the stars, like lamps
attached by the vaulted ceiling of a great palace!”

Beside this classic erudition of the schools,
the age had also its popular literature. Those
who were untaught in scholastic wisdom, were
learned in traditionary lore; for they had their
ballads, in which were described the valor and
achievements of the early kings of the Franks.
These ballads, of which a collection was made
by order of Charlemagne, animated the rude
soldier as he rushed to battle, and were sung in
the midnight bivouacs of the camp. “Perhaps
it is not too much to say” observes the literary
historian Schlegel, “that we have still in our
possession, if not the original language and

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form, at least the substance of many of those
ancient poems, which were collected by the
orders of that prince;—I refer to the Nibelungen
Lied, and the collection which goes by the
name of the Heldenbuch.”

When at length the old Tudesque language,
which was the court language of Charlemagne,
had given place to the Langue d'Oil, the
Northern dialect of the French romance, these
ancient ballads passed from the memories of
the descendants of the Franks, and were succeeded
by the romances of Charlemagne and his
Twelve Peers,—of Roland, and Oliver, and
the other Paladins, who died at Roncesvalles.
Robert Wace, a Norman Trouvère of
the twelfth century, says in one of his poems,
that a minstrel named Taillefer, mounted on a
swift horse, went in front of the Norman army
at the battle of Hastings, singing these ancient
poems.

These chansons de geste, or old historic
romances of France, are epic in their character,
though without doubt they were written to
be chaunted to the sound of an instrument.
To what period many of them belong in their

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present form has never yet been fully determined;
and should it finally be proved by phylological
research, that they can claim no higher
antiquity than the twelfth or thirteenth
century, still there can be little doubt that in
their original form many of them reached far
back into the ninth or tenth. The long prevalent
theory, that the romances of the Twelve
Peers of France all originated in the fabulous
chronicle of Charlemagne and Roland, written
by the Archbishop Turpin in the twelfth
century, if not as yet generally exploded, is
nevertheless fast losing ground.

To the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, also,
belong most of the Fabliaux, or metrical tales
of the Trouvères. Many of these compositions
are remarkable for the inventive talent they
display; but as poems they have, generally
speaking, little merit, and at times exhibit
such a want of refinement, such open and
gross obscenity as to be highly offensive.

It is a remarkable circumstance in the literary
history of France, that whilst her anti-quarians
and scholars have devoted themselves
to collecting and illustrating the poetry of the

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Troubadours, the early lyric poets of the
South, that of the Trouvères, or Troubadours
of the North, has been almost entirely neglected.
By a singular fatality, too, what little time and
attention have hitherto been bestowed upon the
fathers of French poetry, have been so directed
as to save from oblivion little of the most valuable
portions of their writings, whilst the more
tedious and worthless parts have been brought
forth to the public eye, as if to deaden curiosity
and put an end to farther research. The
ancient historic romances of the land have, for
the most part, been left to slumber on unnoticed;
whilst the obscene and tiresome Fabliaux
have been ushered in to the world as fair specimens
of the ancient poetry of France. This
has created unjust prejudices in the minds of
many against the literature of the olden time,
and has led them to regard it as nothing more
than a confused mass of coarse and vulgar fictions,
adapted to a rude and inelegant state of
society.

Of late, however, a more discerning judgment
has been brought to the difficult task of
ancient research; and in consequence of this

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the long established prejudices against the
crumbling monuments of the national literature
of France during the Middle Ages is fast disappearing.
Several learned men are engaged
in rescuing from oblivion the ancient poetic
romances of Charlemagne and the Twelve
Peers of France, and their labors seem destined
to throw new light not only upon the
state of literature, but upon the state of society,
during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries.

Among the voluminous remains of Troubadour
literature, little else has yet been discovered
save poems of a lyric character. The
lyre of the Troubodour seems to have responded
to the impulse of momentary feelings only,—to
the touch of local and transitory circumstances.
His song was a sudden burst of excited feeling:—
it ceased when the passion was subdued,
or rather when its first feverish excitement
passed away; and as the liveliest feelings are
the most transitory, the songs, which embodied
them are short, but full of spirit and energy.
On the other hand the great mass of the poetry
of the Trouvères is of a narrative or epic character.
The genius of the North seems always

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to have delighted in romantic fiction; and whether
we attribute the origin of modern romance
to the Arabians or to the Scandanavians,—
this at least is certain, that there existed marvellous
tales in the nothern languages, and from
these, in part at least, the Trouvères imbibed
the spirit of narrative poetry. There are no
traces of lyric compositions among their writings,
till about the commencement of the thirteenth
century; and it seems probable that the
spirit of song-writing was imbibed from the
Troubadours of the South.

Unfortunately the neglect which has so
long attended the old historic and heroic romances
of the North of France has also befallen
in some degree its early lyric poetry. Little
has yet been done to discover and bring forth
its riches; and doubtless many a sweet little
ballad and melancholly complaint lies buried in
the dust of the thirteenth century. It is not
however my object, in this paper to give an
historical sketch of this ancient and almost forgotten
poetry, but simply to bring forward a
few specimens, which shall exhibit its most
striking and obvious characteristics.

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In these examples it would be in vain to look
for high-wrought expression, suited to the prevailing
taste of the present day. Their most
striking peculiarity, and perhaps their greatest
merit, consists in the simple and direct expression
of feeling, which they contain. This feeling,
too, is one which breathes the langor of that
submissive homage, which was paid to beauty
in the days of chivalry; and I am aware that in
this age of masculine and matter-of-fact thinking,
the love-conceits of a more poetic state of
society are generally looked upon as extremely
trivial and puerile. Nevertheless I shall venture
to present one or two of these simple ballads,
which by recalling the distant age wherein
they were composed, may peradventure please
by the power of contrast.

I have just remarked, that one of the greatest
beauties of these ancient ditties is naïveté of
thought and simplicity of expression. These I
shall endeavor to preserve as far as possible in
the translation, though I am fully conscious
how much the sparkling beauty of an original
loses in being filtered through the idioms of a
foreign language.

-- 140 --

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The favorite theme of the ancient lyric poets
of the North of France is the wayward passion
of love. They all delight to sing les douces
dolors et li mal plaisant de fine amor.

With such feelings the beauties of the opening
Spring are naturally associated. Almost every
love ditty of the old poets commences with
some such exordium as this; “When the
snows of winter have passed away, when the
soft and gentle spring returns, and the flower
and leaf shoot in the groves, and the little
birds warble to their mates in their own sweet
language,—then will I sing my lady-love!

Another favourite introduction to these little
rhapsodies of romantic passion, is the approach
of morning and its sweet-voiced herald,
the lark. The minstrel's song to his lady-love
frequently commences with an allusion to
the hour,


`When the rose-bud opes its e'en,
And the blue-bells droop and die,
And upon the leaves so green
Sparkling dew-drops lie.'

The following is at once the simplest and
prettiest piece of this kind which I have met

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with among the early lyric poets of the North
of France. It is taken from an anonymous
poem entitled “The Paradise of Love.” A
lover having passed the “live-long night in
tears, as he was wont,” goes forth to beguile
his sorrows with the fragrance and beauty of
morning. The carol of the vaulting sky-lark
salutes his ear, and to this merry musician he
makes his complaint.



He! aloete,
Joliete!
Petit t'est de mes maus.


Hark! hark!
Pretty lark!
Little heedest thou my pain!
But if to these longing arms
Pitying Love would yield the charms
Of the fair
With smiling air,
Blithe would beat my heart again.
Hark! hark!
Pretty lark!
Little heedest thou my pain!
Love may force me still to bear
While he lists, consuming care,
But in anguish
Though I languish,
Faithful shall my heart remain.

-- 142 --

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Hark! hark!
Pretty lark!
Little heedest thou my pain!
Then cease, Love, to torment me so;—
But rather than all thoughts forego
Of the fair
With flaxen hair,
Give me back her frowns again.
Hark! hark!
Pretty lark!
Little heedest thou my pain!—

Beside the “woful ballad made to his mistress'
eyebrow,” the early lyric poet frequently
indulges in more calmly analyzing the
philosophy of love, or in questioning the object
and destination of a sigh. Occasionally these
quaint conceits are prettily expressed, and the
little song flutters through the page like a butterfly.
The following is an example.



Et on vas tu, petit soupir,
Que j'ai oui si doulcement?


And whither goest thou gentle sigh,
Breathed so softly in my ear?
Say; dost thou bear his fate severe
To Love's poor martyr doomed to die?
Come; tall me quickly,—do not lie,
What secret message bringest thou here?—
And whither goest thou, gentle sigh,
Breathed so softly in my ear?—

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May heaven conduct thee to thy will,
And safely speed thee on thy way;
This only I would humbly pray—
Pierce deep—but, oh! forbear to kill.
And whither goest thou, gentle sigh,
Breathed so softly in my ear?

The ancient lyric poets of France are
generally spoken of as a class, and their beauties
and defects referred to them collectively
and not individually. In truth there are few
characteristic marks by which any individual
author can be singled out and ranked above the
rest. The lyric poets of the thirteenth and
fourteenth centuries stand upon nearly the same
level. But in the fifteenth century there were
two, who surpassed all their contemporaries
in the beauty and delicacy of their sentiments;
and in the sweetness of their diction, and the
structure of their verse, stand far in advance
of the age in which they lived. These are
Charles d'Orléans and Clotilde de Surville.

Charles, Duke of Orleans, the father of
Louis the Twelfth, and uncle of Francis the
First, was born in 1391. In the general tenor
of his life, the peculiar character of his mind,
and his talent for poetry, there is a striking
resemblance between this noble poet and James

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the First of Scotland, his contemporary. Both
were remarkable for learning and refinement;—
both passed a great portion of their lives in
sorrow and imprisonment; and both cheered
the solitude of their prison walls with the
charms of poetry. Charles d' Orléans was
taken prisoner at the battle of Agincourt in
1415, and carried into England, where he
remained twenty five years in captivity. It
was there, that he composed the greater part
of his poetry. In 1440 he returned to France,
where he died in 1467.

The poems of this writer exhibit a singular
delicacy of thought and sweetness of expression.
The following little Renouveaux, or
songs on the return of Spring, are full of delicacy
and beauty.



Le temps a laissé son manteau
De vent, de froidure et de pluye.


Now Time throws off his cloak again
Of ermin'd frost, and wind and rain,
And clothes him in the embroidery
Of glittering sun and clear blue sky.
With beast and bird the forest rings,
Each in his jargon cries or sings:

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And Time throws off his cloak again
Of ermin'd frost, and wind and rain.
River, and fount, and tinkling brook
Wear in their dainty livery
Drops of silver jewelry;
In new made suit they merry look;
And Time throws off his cloak again
Of ermin'd frost, and wind and rain.

The second upon the same subject presents
a still more agreeable picture of the
departure of Winter and the sweet return of
Spring.



Bien monstrez, printemps gracieux,
De quel mestier savez servir.


Gentle Spring!—in sunshine clad,
Well dost thou thy power display!
For Winter maketh the light heart sad,
And thou,—thou makest the sad heart gay.
He sees thee—and calls to his gloomy train,
The sleet, and the snow, and the wind, and the rain;
And they shrink away—and they flee in fear,
When thy merry step draws near.
Winter giveth the fields and the trees so old,
Their beards of icicles and snow;—
And the rain, it raineth so fast and cold,
We must cower over the embers low;
And snugly housed from the wind and weather,
Mope like birds that are changing feather.

-- 146 --

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But the storm retires, and the sky grows clear,
When thy merry step draws near.
Winter maketh the sun in the gloomy sky,
Wrap him round in a mantle of cloud;
But, Heaven be praised, thy step is nigh;
Thou tearest away the mournful shroud,
And the earth looks bright—and Winter surly
Who has toiled for naught both late and early,
Is banished afar by the new-born year,
When thy merry step draws near.

The only person of that age who can
dispute the laurel with Charles d' Orléans is
Clotilde de Surville. This sweet poetess was
born in the Bas-Vivarais in the year 1405.
Her style is singularly elegant and correct, and
the reader who will take the trouble to decipher
her rude provincial orthography, will find
her writings full of quiet beauty. The following
sweet lines, which breathe the very soul of
maternal tenderness, are part of a little poem
to her first born.



O cher enfantelet, vray pourtraict de ton pere!
Dors sur le seyn que ta bousche a pressé.


Sweet babe! true portrait of thy father's face,
Sleep on the bosom that thy lips have prest!

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Sleep, little one; and closely, gently place
Thy drowsy eyelid on thy mother's breast.
Upon that tender eye, my little friend,
Soft sleep shall come, that cometh not to me!
I watch to see thee, nourish thee, defend—
Tis sweet to watch for thee—alone for thee.
His arms fall down; sleep sits upon his brow;
His eye is closed; he sleeps—how still and calm!
Wore not his cheek the apple's ruddy glow,
Would you not say he slept on death's cold arm?
Awake, my boy!—I tremble with affright!
Awake, and chase this fatal thought!—unclose
Thine eye but for one moment on the light!
Even at the price of thine give me repose!
Sweet error!—he but slept—I breathe again—
Come gentle dreams, the hour of sleep beguile!
Oh! when shall he for whom I sigh in vain,
Beside me watch to see thy waking smile?

But upon this theme I have written
enough,—perhaps too much.



`This may be poetry for ought I know,
Says an old worthy friend of mine, while leaning
Over my shoulder as I write, although
I can't exactly comprehend its meaning.'

-- 148 --

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I have touched upon the subject before me
in a brief and desultory manner, and have purposely
left my remarks unincumbered by learned
reference and far-sought erudition; for these
are ornaments which would ill become so trivial
a pen as this wherewith I write, though
perchance the want of them will render my essay
unsatisfactory to the scholar and the critic.
But I am emboldened thus to skim with a light
wing over this poetic lore of the past, by the
reflection that the greater part of my readers
belong not to that grave and serious class, who
love the deep wisdom, which lies in quoting
from a quaint, forgotten tome, and are ready
on all occasions to say, “Commend me to the
owl.”

eaf258v2.1

1. The following amusing description of this Restorer of Letters, as his
biographers call him, is taken from the fabulous Chronicle of John Turpin,
chap. xx.

“The Emperor was of a ruddy complexion, with brown hair; of a
well-made handsome form, but a stern visage. His height was about
eight of his own feet, which were very long. He was of a strong robust
make; his legs and thighs very stout, and his sinews firm. His face was
thirteen inches long; his beard a palm; his nose half a palm; his forehead
a foot over. His lion-like eyes flashed fire like carbuncles; his
eye-brows were half a palm over. When he was angry, it was a terror
to look upon him. He required eight spans for his girdle, besides what
hung loose. He ate sparingly of bread; but a whole quarter of lamb,
two fowls, a goose, or a large portion of pork; a peacock, crane, or a
whole hare. He drank moderately of wine and water. He was so
strong, that he could at a single blow cleave asunder an armed soldier on
horseback from the head to the waist, and the horse likewise. He easily
vaulted over four horses harnessed together; and could raise an armed
man from the ground to his head, as he stood erect upon his hand.”

-- 149 --

THE BAPTISM OF FIRE A LEAF FROM HISTORY.

It is a maxim among us Christians, that we cannot possibly suffer any
real hurt, if we cannot be convicted of doing any real evil. You may kill,
indeed, but you cannot hurt us.

JUSTIN MARTYR.

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-- 151 --

The more you mow us down, the thicker we rise; the Christian
blood you spill is like the seed you sow;—it springs from the earth again
and fructifies the more.

TERTULLIAN.

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As day was drawing to a close, and the
rays of the setting sun climbed slowly up the
dungeon wall, the prisoner sat and read in a
tome with silver clasps. He was a man in the
vigor of his days, with a pale and noble countenance,
that wore less the marks of worldly
care than of high and holy thought. His temples
were already bald; but a thick and curling
beard bespoke the strength of manhood,
and his eye, dark, full, and eloquent, beamed
with all the enthusiasm of a martyr.

-- 152 --

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The book before him was a volume of the
early Christian Fathers. He was reading the
Apologetic of the eloquent Tertullian, the oldest
and ablest writer of the Latin Church. At
times he paused, and raised his eyes to heaven
as if in prayer, and then read on again in
silence. At length a passage seemed to touch
his inmost soul. He read aloud;

“Give us, then, what names you please,
from the instruments of cruelty you torture us
by, call us Sarmenticians and Semaxians, because
you fasten us to trunks of trees, and
stick us about with faggots to set us on fire;
yet let me tell you, when we are thus begirt and
dressed about with fire, we are then in our most
illustrious apparel. These are our victorious
palms and robes of glory; and mounted on
our funeral pile we look upon ourselves in our
triumphal chariot. No wonder, then, such
passive heroes please not those they vanquish
with such conquering sufferings. And therefore
we pass for men of despair, and violently
bent upon our own destruction. However,
that which you are pleased to call madness and
despair in us, are the very actions, which under

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virtue's standard lift up your sons of fame and
glory, and emblazon them to future ages.”

He arose and paced the dungeon to and
fro, with folded arms and a firm step. His
thoughts held communion with eternity.

“Father, which art in Heaven!” he exclaimed;
“give me strength to die, like those
holy men of old, who scorned to purchase life
at the expense of truth. That truth has made
me free; and though condemned on earth, I
know that I am absolved in heaven!”

He again seated himself at his table, and
read in that tome with silver clasps.

This solitary prisoner was Anne Du Bourg,
a man, who feared not man. Once a merciful
judge in that august tribunal, upon whose voice
hung the life and death of those, who were
persecuted for conscience' sake, he was now
himself an accused,—a convicted heretic, condemned
to the baptism of fire, because he
would not unrighteously condemn others. He
had dared to plead the cause of suffering humanity
before that dread tribunal, and in the
presence of the king himself to declare, that it
was an offence to the majesty of God to shed

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man's blood in his name. Six weary months,—
from June to December,—he had lain a
prisoner in that dungeon, from which a death
by fire was soon to set him free. Such was
the clemency of Henry the Second!

As the prisoner read, his eyes were filled
with tears. He still gazed upon the printed
page, but it was a blank before his eyes. His
thoughts were far away amid the scenes of his
childhood, amid the green valleys of Riom,
and the Golden Mountains of Auvergne. Some
simple word had called up the vision of the
past. He was a child again. He was playing
with the pebbles of the brook,—he was shouting
to the echo of the hills,—he was praying
at his mother's knee, with his little hands clasped
in hers.

This dream of childhood was broken by
the grating of bolts and bars, as the jailor
opened his prison door. A moment afterwards,
his former colleague De Harley stood at his
side.

“Thou here!” exclaimed the prisoner, surprised
at the visit. “Thou in the dungeon of
an heretic! On what errand hast thou come?”

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“On an errand of mercy,” replied De Harley.
“I come to tell thee—”

“That the hour of my death draws near?”

“That thou mayst still be saved.”

“Yes; if I will bear false witness against
my God—barter heaven for earth—an eternity
for a few brief days of worldly existence. Lost,
thou shouldst say,—lost, not saved!”

“No! saved!” cried De Harley with
warmth; “saved from a death of shame and
an eternity of wo! Renounce this false doctrine—
this abominable heresy—and return
again to the bosom of the church, which thou
dost rend with strife and dissention.”

“God judge between thee and me, which
has embraced the truth.”

“His hand already smites thee.”

“It has fallen more heavily upon those who
so unjustly persecute me. Where is the king?—
he who said, that with his own eyes he
would behold me perish at the stake?—he, to
whom the undaunted Du Faur cried, like
Elijah to Ahab, It is thou, who troublest Israel!
Where is the king?—called through a
sudden and violent death to the judgment-seat

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of heaven!—Where is Minard, the persecutor
of the just?—Slain by the hand of an assassin!
It was not without reason, that I said to
him, when standing before my accusers, Tremble!
believe the word of one, who is about to
appear before God; thou likewise shalt stand
there soon,—thou, that sheddest the blood of
the children of peace.—He has gone to his account
before me.”

“And that menace has hastened thine own
condemnation. Minard was slain by the Huguenots,
and it is whispered, that thou wert
privy to his death.”

“This at least might have been spared a
dying man!” replied the prisoner, much agitated
by so unjust and so unexpected an accusation.
“As I hope for mercy hereafter, I am
innocent of the blood of this man, and of all
knowledge of so foul a crime. But tell me,
hast thou come here only to embitter my last
hours with such an accusation as this? If so,
I pray thee, leave me. My moments are precious.
I would be alone.”

“I came to offer thee life, freedom, and
happiness.”

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“Life—freedom—happiness! At the price
thou hast set upon them, I scorn them all!
Had the apostles and martyrs of the early
christian church listened to such paltry bribes
as these, where were now the faith in which
we trust! These holy men of old shall answer
for me. Hear what Justin Martyr says
in his earnest appeal to Antonine the Pious, in
behalf of the christians, who in his day were
unjustly loaded with public odium and oppression.

He opened the volume before him and
read.

“I could wish you would take this also into
consideration, that what we say is really for
your own good; for it is in our power at any
time to escape your torments, by denying the
faith, when you question us about it; but we
scorn to purchase life at the expense of a lie;
for our souls are winged with a desire of a life
of eternal duration and purity, of an immediate
conversation with God the father and maker
of all things. We are in haste to be confessing
and finishing our faith; being fully persuaded,
that we shall arrive at this blessed state,

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if we approve ourselves to God by our works,
and, by our obedience, express our passion for
that divine life, which is never interrupted by
any clashing evil.”

The Catholic and the Huguenot reasoned
long and earnestly together; but they reasoned
in vain. Each was firm in his belief; and they
parted to meet no more on earth.

On the following day Du Bourg was summoned
before his judges to receive his final
sentence. He heard it unmoved, and with a
prayer to God, that he would pardon those
who had condemned him according to their
consciences. He then addressed his judges in
an oration full of power and eloquence. It
closed with these words.

“And now, ye judges, if indeed you hold
the sword of God as ministers of his wrath, to
take vengeance upon those who do evil, beware,
I charge you beware, how you condemn us.
Consider well what evil we have done; and
before all things, decide whether it be just,
that we should listen unto you, rather than
unto God. Are you so drunken with
the wine-cup of the great sorceress, that

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you drink poison for nourishment? Are you
not those, who make the people sin, by turning
them away from the service of God? And if
you regard more the opinion of men than that
of heaven, in what esteem are you held by other
nations and principalities and powers, for
the martyrdoms you have caused in obedience
to this blood-stained Phalaris?—God grant,
thou cruel tyrant, that by thy miserable death,
thou may'st put an end to our groans!

Why weep ye? What means this delay?
Your hearts are heavy within you. Your consciences
are haunted by the judgment of God.
And thus it is, that the condemned rejoice in
the fires you have kindled, and think they never
live better, than in the midst of consuming
flames. Torments affright them not,—insults
enfeeble them not,—their honor is redeemed
by death—he that dies is the conqueror, and
the conquered, he that mourns.

No! whatever snares are spread for us,
whatever suffering we endure, you cannot separate
us from the love of Christ. Strike then—
slay—grind us to powder! Those that die
in the Lord shall live again; we shall all be

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raised together. Condemn me as you will—I
am a christian; yes, I am a christian, and am
ready to die for the glory of our Lord—for the
truth of the evangelists.

Quench, then, your fires! Let the wicked
abandon his way, and return unto the Lord,
and he will have compassion on him. Live—
be happy—and meditate on God, ye Judges!
As for me, I go rejoicing to my death. What
wait ye for? Lead me to the scaffold!”

They bound the prisoner's hands, and leading
him forth from the council-chamber, placed
him upon the cart, that was to bear him to the
Place de Grève. Before and behind marched
a guard of five hundred soldiers; for Du Bourg
was beloved by the people, and a popular tumult
was apprehended. The day was overcast
and sad; and ever and anon the sound of the
tolling bell mingled its dismal clang with the
solemn notes of the funeral march. They soon
reached the place of execution, which was already
filled with a dense and silent crowd. In
the centre stood the gallows with a pile of faggots
beneath it, and the hangman, with a burning
torch in his hand. But this funeral apparel

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inspired no terror in the heart of Du Bourg.
A look of triumph beamed from his eye, and his
countenance shone like that of an angel. With
his own hands he divested himself of his outer
garments, and gazing round upon the breathless
and sympathizing crowd, exclaimed;

“My friends; I come not hither as a thief
or a murderer; but it is for the gospel's sake!”

A cord was then fastened round his waist,
and he was drawn up into the air. At the same
moment the burning torch of the executioner
was applied to the faggots beneath, and the
thick volumes of smoke concealed the martyr
from the horror-stricken crowd. One stifled
groan arose from all that vast multitude, like the
moan of the sea; and all was hushed again,
save the crackling of the faggots, and at intervals
the funeral knell, that smote the very soul.
The quivering flames darted upward and
around; and an agonizing cry broke from the
murky cloud;

“My God! My God! forsake me not,
that I forsake not thee!”

The wind lifted the reddening smoke, like a
veil, and the form of the martyr was seen to

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fall into the fire beneath, that glowed like a furnace
seven times heated. In a moment it rose
again, its garments all in flame; and again the
faint, half-smothered cry of agony was heard;

“My God! my God! forsake me not,
that I forsake not thee!”

Once more the quivering body descended into
the flames; and once more it was lifted into
the air, a blackened, burning cinder. Again,
and again this hellish mockery of baptism was
repeated; till the martyr with a despairing,
suffocating voice exclaimed;

“O God! I cannot die!”

The chief executioner came forward, and
either in mercy to the dying man, or through
fear of the populace, threw a noose over his
neck, and strangled the almost lifeless victim.
At the same moment, the cord which held the
body was loosened, and it fell into the fire to
rise no more. And thus was consummated the
martyrdom of the Baptism of Fire.

-- 163 --

COQ-À -L' ÂNE.



Voir, c'est avoir. Allons courir!
Vie errante
Est chose enivrante;
Voir, c'est avoir. Allons courir!
Car tout voir, c'est tout conquérir.
Ton œil ne peut se détacher,
Philosophe
De mince étoffe,
Ton œil ne peut se détacher
Du vieux coq de ton vieux clocher.
BERANGER.

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-- 165 --



My brain methinks is like an hour-glass,
Wherein my imaginations run like sands,
Filling up time; but then are turn'd and turn'd
So that I know not what to stay upon,
And less to put in art.
Ben Jonson.

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A rainy and gloomy winter was just drawing
to its close, when I left Paris for the South
of France. We started at sunrise; and as we
passed along the solitary streets of the vast
and silent metropolis, drowsily one by one
its clanging horologes chimed the hour of six.
Beyond the city gates the wide landscape was
covered with a silvery net-work of frost; a
wreath of vapor overhung the windings of the
Seine; and every twig and shrub, with its
sheath of crystal, flashed in the level rays of
the rising sun. The sharp frosty air seemed

-- 166 --

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to quicken the sluggish blood of the old postillion
and his horses, a fresh team stood ready in
harness at each stage, and notwithstanding the
slippery pavement of the causeway, the long
and tedious climbing the hill-side upwards,
and the equally long and tedious descent with
chained wheels and the drag,—just after night-fall
the lumbering vehicle of Vincent Caillard
stopped at the gateway of the Three Emperors
in the famous city of Orleans.

I cannot pride myself much upon being a
good travelling companion, for the rocking of
a coach always lulls me into forgetfulness of
the present, and no sooner does the hollow
monotonous rumbling of the wheels reach my
ear, than like my friend Nick Bottom, “I
have an exposition of sleep come upon me.” It
is not, however, the deep, sonorous slumber of
a laborer, “stuffed with distressful bread;” but
a kind of day-dream, wherein the creations of
fancy seem realities, and the real world, which
swims dizzily before the half-shut, drowsy eye,
becomes mingled with the imaginary world
within. This is doubtless a very great failing
in a traveller; and I confess with all humility,

-- 167 --

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that at times the line of demarkation between
truth and fiction is rendered thereby so indefinite
and indistinct, that I cannot always determine
with unerring certainty, whether an event
really happened to me, or whether I only
dreamed it.

On this account I shall not attempt a detailed
description of my journey from Paris to
Bordeaux. I was travelling like a bird of passage;
and five weary days and four weary
nights I was on the way. The diligence stopped
only to change horses, and for the travellers
to take their meals; and by night I slept
with my head under my wing in a snug corner
of the coach.

Strange as it may appear to some of my
readers, this night-travelling is at times far
from being disagreeable. Nay, if the country
is flat and uninteresting, and you are favored
with a moon, it may be very pleasant. As the
night advances the conversation around you
gradually dies away, and is imperceptibly given
up to some garrulous traveller, who finds himself
belated in the midst of a long story, and
when at length he puts out his feelers in the

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form of a question, discovers by the silence
around him, that the breathless attention of his
audience is owing to their being asleep. All
is now silent. You let down the window of
the carriage, and the fresh night air cools your
flushed and burning cheek. The landscape,
though in reality dull and uninteresting, seems
beautiful as it floats by in the soft moonshine.
Every ruined hovel is changed by the magic of
night to a trim cottage, every straggling and
dilapidated hamlet becomes as beautiful as
those we read of in poetry and romance.
Over the lowland hangs a silver mist; over the
hills peep the twinkling stars. The keen night
air is a spur to the postillion and his horses.
In the words of the old German ballad;


`Halloo! halloo! away they go,
Unheeding wet or dry,
And horse and rider snort and blow,
And sparkling pebbles fly.
And all on which the moon doth shine
Behind them flees afar,
And backward sped, scuds overhead
The sky and every star.'
Anon you stop at the relay. The drowsy hostler
crawls out of the stable yard; a few gruff

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words and strange oaths pass between him and
the postillion,—then there is a coarse joke in
patois, of which you understand the ribaldry
only, and which is followed by a husky laugh, a
sound between a hiss and a growl;—and then
you are off again in a crack. Occasionally a
way-traveller is uncaged, and a new-comer
takes the vacant perch at your elbow. Meanwhile
your busy fancy speculates upon all these
things, and you fall asleep amid its thousand
vagaries. Soon you wake again, and snuff the
morning air. It was but a moment, and yet the
night is gone. The gray of twilight steals into
the window and gives a ghastly look to the
countenances of the sleeping group around you.
One sits bolt upright in a corner, offending none,
and stiff and motionless as an Egyptian mummy;
another sits equally straight and immovable,
but snores like a priest; the head of a
third is dangling over his shoulder, and the
tassel of his nightcap tickles his neighbor's ear;
a fourth has lost his hat,—his wig is awry, and
his under lip hangs lolling about like an idiot's.
The whole scene is a living caricature of man,
presenting human nature in some of the

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grotesque attitudes she assumes, when that pragmatical
school-master, propriety, has fallen
asleep in his chair, and the unruly members of
his charge are freed from the thraldom of the
rod.

On leaving Orleans, instead of following
the great western mail-route through Tours,
Poitiers, and Angoulême, and thence on to
Bordeaux, I struck across the centre provinces
of the Indre, the Haute-Vienne, and the Dordogne,
passing through the provincial capitals
of Châteauroux, Limoges, and Périgueux.
South of the Loire the country assumes a more
mountainous aspect, and the landscape is broken
by long sweeping hills, and fertile valleys.
Many a fair scene invites the traveller's foot to
pause; and his eye roves with delight over the
picturesque landscape of the valley of the
Creuse, and the beautiful highland scenery near
Périgueux. There are also many objects of
art and antiquity, which arrest his attention.
Argenton boasts its Roman amphitheatre, and
the ruins of an old castle built by king Pepin;
at Chalus the tower, beneath which Richard
Cœur-de-Lion was slain, is still pointed

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out to the curious traveller, and Périgueux is
full of crumbling monuments of the Middle
Ages.

Scenes like these, and the constant chatter
of my fellow-travellers, served to enliven the
tedium of a long and fatiguing journey. The
French are preeminently a talking people; and
every new object afforded a topic for light and
animated discussion. The affairs of church
and State were, however, the themes oftenest
touched upon. The Law Project for the suppression
of the liberty of the press was then under
discussion in the Chamber of Peers, and
excited the most lively interest through the
whole kingdom. Of course it was a subject
not likely to be forgotten in the stage-coach.

“Ah! mon Dieu!” said a brisk little man,
with snow-white hair, and a blazing red face, at
the same time drawing up his shoulders to a level
with his ears, “The ministry are determined
to carry their point at all events. They mean to
break down the liberty of the press, cost what
it will.”

“If they succeed,” added the person who
sat opposite, “we may thank the Jesuits for it.

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It is all their work. They rule the mind of
our imbecile monarch, and it is their miserable
policy to keep the people in darkness.”

“No doubt of that,” rejoined the first speaker,
“Why, no longer ago, than yesterday I
read in the Figaro, that a printer had been
prosecuted for publishing the moral lessons of
the Evangelists without the miracles.”

“Is it possible!” said I. “And are the people
so stupid as thus patiently to offer their
shoulders to the pack-saddle?”

“Most certainly not!—We shall have another
revolution.”

“If history speaks true, you have had revolutions
enough, during the last century or two,
to satisfy the most mercurial nation on earth.
You have hardly been quiet a moment since
the day of the Baracades and the memorable
war of the pots-de-chambre in the times of the
Grand Condé.”

“You are pleased to speak lightly of our
revolutions, Sir,” rejoined the politician, growing
warm. “You must, however, confess that
each successive one has brought us nearer to
our object. Old institutions, whose foundations
lie deep in the prejudices of a great nation, are

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not to be toppled down by the springing of a
single mine. You must confess, too, that our
national character is much improved since the
days you speak of. The youth of the present
century are not so frivolous as those of the last.
They have no longer that unbounded levity
and light-heartedness so generally ascribed to
them. From this circumstance we have every
thing to hope. Our revolutions, likewise, must
necessarily change their character, and secure
to us more solid advantages than heretofore.”

“Luck makes pluck, as the Germans say.
You go on bravely; but it gives me pain to
see religion and the church so disregarded.”

“Superstition and the church, you mean,
Sir;” said the gray-headed man. “Why, Sir,
the church is nothing now-a-days, but a tumble-down,
dilapidated tower, for rooks, and
daws, and such silly birds to build their nests
in!”

It was now very evident that I had unearthed
a radical; and there is no knowing when his
harangue would have ended had not his voice
been drowned by the noise of the wheels, as we
entered the paved street of the city of Limoges.

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A breakfast of boiled capon stuffed with
truffles, and accompanied by a pâté de Périgueux,
a dish well known to French gourmands,
restored us all to good humor. While
we were at breakfast a personage stalked into
the room, whose strange appearance arrested
my attention, and gave subject for future conversation
to our party. He was a tall, thin
figure, armed with a long whip, brass spurs,
and black whiskers. He wore a bell-crowned
varnished hat, a blue frock-coat with
standing collar, a red waistcoat, a pair of yellow
leather breeches, and boots, that reached to
the knees. I at first took him for a postillion,
or a private courier; but, upon inquiry, I found
that he was only the son of a Notary Public,
and that he dressed in this strange fashion—
to please his own fancy.

As soon as we were comfortably seated in
the diligence, I made some remark on the singular
costume of the personage, whom I had
just seen at the tavern.

“These things are so common with us,”
said the politician, “that we hardly notice
them.”

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“What you want in liberty of speech, then,
you make up in liberty of dress.”

“Yes; in this, at least, we are a free people.”

“I had not been long in France, before I
discovered, that a man may dress as he pleases,
without being stared at. The most opposite
styles of dress seem to be in vogue at the same
moment. No strange garment, nor desperate
hat excites either ridicule or surprise. French
fashions are known and imitated all the world
over.”

“Very true indeed,” said a little man in
goslin green. “We give fashions to all other
nations.”

“Fashions!” said the politician with a
kind of growl, “Fashions!—Yes, Sir, and
some of us are simple enough to boast of it, as
if we were a nation of tailors.”

Here the little man in goslin green pulled
up the horns of his cotton dicky.

“I recollect,” said I, “that your Madame
de Pompadour in one of her letters says something
to this effect; We furnish our enemies
with hair-dressers, ribbons and fashions;
and they furnish us with laws.”

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“That is not the only silly thing she said
in her life time. Ah! Sir, these Pompadours,
and Maintenons, and Montespans were the authors
of much woe to France. Their follies
and extravagancies exhausted the public treasury,
and made the nation poor. They built
palaces, and covered themselves with jewels,
and ate from golden plate, whilst the people
who toiled for them, had hardly a crust to keep
their own children from starvation! And yet
they preach to us the divine right of Kings!”

My radical had got upon his high horse
again; and I know not whither it would have
carried him, had not a thin man with a black,
seedy coat, who sat at his elbow, at that moment
crossed his path, by one of those abrupt and
sudden transitions, which leave you aghast at
the strange association of ideas in the speaker's
mind.

Apropos de bottes!” exclaimed he.
“Speaking of boots, and Notaries Public, and
such matters,—excuse me for interrupting you,
Sir—a little story has just popped into my head
which may amuse the company; and as I am
not very fond of political discussions,—no

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offence, Sir,—I will tell it, for the sake of changing
the conversation.”

Whereupon, without farther preamble or
apology, he proceeded to tell his story in as
nearly as may be the following words.

You must know, Gentlemen, that there
lived some years ago, in the city of Périgueux,
an honest Notary Public, the descendant of a
very ancient and broken-down family, and the
occupant of one of those old, weather-beaten
tenements, which remind you of the times of
your great-grandfather. He was a man of
an unoffending, sheepish disposition; the father
of a family, though not the head of it; for
in that family “the hen over-crowed the cock,”
and the neighbors, when they spake of the Notary,
shrugged their shoulders, and exclaimed,
“Poor fellow! his spurs want sharpening.”
In fine, you understand me, Gentlemen; he
was a hen-pecked man.

Well—finding no peace at home, he sought
it elsewhere, as was very natural for him to do;
and at length discovered a place of rest, far

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beyond the cares and clamors of domestic life.
This was a little café estaminet, a short way
out of the city, whither he repaired every evening,
to smoke his pipe, drink sugar-water, and
play his favorite game of domino. There
he met the boon companions he most loved;
heard all the floating chit-chat of the day;
laughed when he was in merry mood; found
consolation when he was sad; and at all times
gave vent to his opinions without fear of being
snubbed short by a flat contradiction.

Now, the Notary's bosom friend, was a
dealer in claret and cognac, who lived about a
league from the city, and always passed his
evenings at the estaminet. He was a gross
corpulent fellow, raised from a full-blooded
Gascon breed, and sired by a comic actor of
some reputation in his way. He was remarkable
for nothing but his good humor, his love of
cards, and a strong propensity to test the quality
of his own liquors by comparing them with
those sold at other places.

As evil communications corrupt good manners,
the bad practices of the wine-dealer won
insensibly upon the worthy Notary; and

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before he was aware of it, he found himself weaned
from domino and sugar-water, and addicted
to piquet and spiced wine. Indeed it not unfrequently
happened, that after a long session
at the estaminet, the two friends grew so urbane,
that they would waste a full half-hour at
the door in friendly dispute, which should conduct
the other home.

Though this course of life agreed well
enough with the sluggish, phlegmatic temperament
of the wine-dealer, it soon began to play
the very deuce with the more sensitive organization
of the Notary, and finally put his nervous
system completely out of tune. He lost
his appetite, became gaunt and haggard, and
could get no sleep. Legions of blue-devils
haunted him by day, and by night strange
faces peeped through his bed curtains, and
the night-mare snorted in his ear. The
worse he grew, the more he smoked and tippled;
and the more he smoked and tippled—
why, as a matter of course, the worse he grew.
His wife alternately stormed—remonstrated—
entreated; but all in vain. She made the
house too hot for him—he retreated to the

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tavern; she broke his long-stemmed pipes upon
the andirons—he substituted a short-stemmed
one, which, for safe keeping, he carried in his
waistcoat pocket.

Thus the unhappy Notary ran gradually
down at the heel. What with his bad habits
and his domestic grievances, he became completely
hipped. He imagined that he was going
to die; and suffered in quick succession
all the diseases, that ever beset mortal man.
Every shooting pain was an alarming symptom;—
every uneasy feeling after dinner, a sure
prognostic of some mortal disease. In vain
did his friends endeavor to reason, and then to
laugh him out of his strange whims; for when
did ever jest or reason cure a sick imagination?
His only answer was, “Do let me alone, I
know better than you, what ails me.”

Well, Gentlemen; things were in this state,
when one afternoon in December, as he sat
moping in his office, wrapped in an over-coat,
with a cap on his head, and his feet thrust into
a pair of furred slippers, a cabriolet stopped at
the door, and a loud knocking without aroused
him from his gloomy revery. It was a

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message from his friend the wine-dealer, who had
been suddenly attacked, the night before, with
a violent fever, and growing worse and worse,
had now sent in the greatest haste for the Notary
to draw up his last will and testament.
The case was urgent, and admitted neither excuse
nor delay; and the Notary, tying a handkerchief
round his face, and buttoning up to
the chin, jumped into the cabriolet, and suffered
himself, thought not without some dismal
presentiments and misgivings of heart, to be
driven to the wine-dealer's house.

When he arrived, he found every thing
in the greatest confusion. On entering the
house, he ran against the apothecary, who was
coming down stairs, with a face as long as your
arm, and a pharmaceutical instrument somewhat
longer; and a few steps farther, he met
the housekeeper—for the wine-dealer was an
old bachelor—running up and down, and
wringing her hands, for fear that the good man
should die—without making his will. He soon
reached the chamber of his sick friend, and
found him tossing about under a huge pile of
bed-clothes, in a paroxysm of fever, calling

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aloud for a draught of cold water. The Notary
shook his head; he thought this a fatal
symptom; for ten years back, the wine-dealer
had been suffering under a species of hydrophobia,
which seemed suddenly to have left him.

When the sick-man saw who stood by his
bed-side, he stretched out his hand and exclaimed;

“Ah! my dear friend! have you come at
last?—You see it is all over with me. You
have arrived just in time to draw up that—that
passport of mine. Ah, grand diable! how
hot it is here! Water—water—water! Will
nobody give me a drop of cold water?”

As the case was an urgent one, the Notary
made no delay in getting his papers in readiness;
and in a short time the last will and testament
of the wine-dealer was drawn up in due
form, the Notary guiding the sick-man's hand
as he scrawled his signature at the bottom.

As the evening wore away, the wine-dealer
grew worse and worse, and at length became
delirious, mingling in his incoherent ravings
the phrases of the Credo and Pater-noster with
the shibboleth of the dram-shop and the cardtable.

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“Take care! take care! There now—
Credo in—pop! ting-a-ling-ling! give me
some of that. Cent-é-dize! Why you old publican,
this wine is poisoned—I know your tricks!—
Sanctam ecclesiam catholicam. Well, well,
we shall see. Imbecil! To have a tiercemajor
and a seven of hearts, and discard the
seven. By St. Anthony, capot! You are lurched—
Ha! ha! I told you so. I knew very
well—there—there—don't interrupt me—Carnis
resurrectionem et vitam eternam!

With these words upon his lips, the poor
wine-dealer expired. Meanwhile the Notary
sat cowering over the fire, aghast at the fearful
scene, that was passing before him, and
now and then striving to keep up his courage
by a glass of cognac. Already his fears were
on the alert; and the idea of contagion flitted
to and fro through his mind. In order to quiet
these thoughts of evil import, he lighted his
pipe, and began to prepare for returning home.
At that moment the apothecary turned round to
him, and said;

“Dreadful sickly time, this! The disorder
seems to be spreading.”

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“What disorder!” exclaimed the Notary,
with a movement of surprise.

“Two died yesterday, and three to day;”
continued the apothecary without answering
the question. “Very sickly time, Sir,—very.”

“But what disorder is it? What disease
has carried off my friend here so suddenly?”

“What disease? Why scarlet fever, to be
sure.”

“And is it contagious?”

“Certainly!”

“Then I am a dead man!” exclaimed the
Notary, putting his pipe into his waistcoat
pocket, and beginning to walk up and down
the room in despair. “I am a dead man!—
Now don't deceive me—don't, will you!—What—
what are the symptoms?”

“A sharp, burning pain in the right side,”
said the apothecary.

“Oh, what a fool I was to come here!
Take me home—take me home, and let me die
in the bosom of my family!”

In vain did the housekeeper and the apothecary
strive to pacify him;—he was not a man
to be reasoned with; he answered, that he

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knew his own constitution better than they did,
and insisted upon going home without delay.
Unfortunately, the vehicle he came in had returned
to the city; and the whole neighborhood
was a-bed and asleep. What was to be
done? Nothing in the world but to take the
apothocary's horse, which stood hitched at the
door, patiently waiting his master's will.

Well, Gentlemen; as there was no remedy,
our Notary mounted this raw-boned steed, and
set forth upon his homeward journey. The
night was cold and gusty, and the wind set
right in his teeth. Overhead the leaden clouds
were beating to and fro, and through them the
newly-risen moon seemed to be tossing and
drifting along like a cock-boat in the surf;
now swallowed up in a huge billow of cloud,
and now lifted upon its bosom, and dashed
with silvery spray. The trees by the road-side
groaned with a sound of evil omen, and before
him lay three mortal miles, beset with a thousand
imaginary perils. Obedient to the whip
and spur, the steed leaped forward by fits and
starts, now dashing away in a tremendous gallop,
and now relaxing into a long hard trot;

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while the rider, filled with symptoms of disease,
and dire presentiments of death, urged him on,
as if he were fleeing before the pestilence.

In this way, by dint of whistling and
shouting, and beating right and left, one mile
of the fatal three was safely passed. The apprehensions
of the Notary had so far subsided,
that he even suffered the poor horse to walk
up hill; but these apprehensions were suddenly
revived again with tenfold violence by a sharp
pain in the right side, which seemed to pierce
him like a needle.

“It is upon me at last!” groaned the fearstricken
man. “Heaven be merciful to me,
the greatest of sinners! And must I die in a
ditch after all?—He! Get up—get up!”

And away went horse and rider at full
speed—hurry-skurry—up hill and down—panting
and blowing like all possessed. At every
leap, the pain in the rider's side seemed to increase.
At first it was a little point like the
prick of a needle—then it spread to the size
of a half-franc piece—then covered a place as
large as the palm of your hand. It gained upon
him fast. The poor man groaned aloud in

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agony; faster and faster sped the horse over
the frozen ground—farther and farther spread
the pain over his side. To complete the dismal
picture, the storm commenced,—snow mingled
with rain. But snow, and rain, and cold were
naught to him; for though his arms and legs
were frozen to icicles, he felt it not; the fatal
symptom was upon him; he was doomed to
die,—not of cold, but of scarlet fever!

At length, he knew not how, more dead
than alive, he reached the gate of the city. A
band of ill-bred dogs, that were serenading at
a corner of the street, seeing the Notary dash
by, joined in the hue and cry, and ran barking
and yelping at his heels. It was now late at
night, and only here and there a solitary lamp
twinkled from an upper story. But on went
the Notary, down this street and up that, till at
last he reached his own door. There was a
light in his wife's bed-chamber. The good
woman came to the window, alarmed at such
a knocking, and howling, and clattering at her
door so late at night; and the Notary was too
deeply absorbed in his own sorrows to observe
that the lamp cast the shadow of two heads on
the window-curtain.

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“Let me in! let me in! Quick! quick!”
he exclaimed almost breathless from terror and
fatigue.

“Who are you, that come to disturb a
lone woman at this hour of the night?” cried
a sharp voice from above. “Begone about
your business, and let quiet people sleep.”

“Oh, diable, diable! Come down and let
me in! I am your husband. Don't you know
my voice? Quick, I beseech you; for I am
dying here in the street!”

After a few moments of delay and a few
more words of parley, the door was opened,
and the Notary stalked into his domicil pale
and haggard in aspect, and as stiff and straight
as a ghost. Cased from head to heel in an
armor of ice, as the glare of the lamp fell upon
him, he looked like a knight-errant mailed in
steel. But in one place his armor was broken.
On his right side was a circular spot, as large
as the crown of your hat, and about as black!

“My dear wife!” he exclaimed with more
tenderness, than he had exhibited for many
years; “Reach me a chair. My hours are
numbered. I am a dead man!”

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Alarmed at these exclamations, his wife
stripped off his over-coat. Something fell
from beneath it, and was dashed to pieces on
the hearth. It was the Notary's pipe! He
placed his hand upon his side, and lo! it was
bare to the skin!—Coat, waistcoat and linen
were burnt through and through, and there was
a blister on his side as large over as your head!

The mystery was soon explained, symptom
and all. The Notary had put his pipe into
his pocket without knocking out the ashes!
And so my story ends.

“Is that all?” asked the radical, when
the story-teller had finished.

“That is all.”

“Well, what does your story go to prove?
What bearing has it on the great interests of
man?”

“That is more than I can tell. All I
know is that the story is true.”

“And did he die?” said the nice little man
in goslin green.

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“Yes; he died afterwards,” replied the
story-teller, rather annoyed by the question.

“And what did he die of?” continued
goslin-green, following him up.

“What did he die of?” winking to the
rest of the company; “Why, he died—of a
sudden!”

-- 191 --

THE JOURNEY INTO SPAIN.

A l'issue de l'yver que le joly temps de primavère commence, et qu'
on voit arbres verdoyer, flems espanouir, et qu' on oit les oisillons chanter
en toute joie et deulceur, tant que les verts bocages retentissent de
leurs sons et que cœmrs tristes pensifs y dolens s'en esjouissent, s'émeuvent
à delaisser deuil et toute tristesse, et se parforcent à valoir mieux.

La Plaisante Histoire de Gudrin de Monglave.

-- --

[figure description] Blank Leaf.[end figure description]

-- 193 --



The bud is in the bough,
And the leaf is in the bud,
And Earth's beginning now
In her veins to feel the blood,
Which, warmed by summer's sun
In the alembic of the vine,
From her founts will overrun,
In a ruddy gush of wine.
Felicia Hemans.

[figure description] Page 193.[end figure description]

Soft-breathing Spring! how many pleasant
thoughts, how many delightful recollections
does thy name awaken in the mind of a traveller!
Whether he has followed thee by the
banks of the Loire or the Guadalquivir, or traced
thy footsteps, slowly climbing the sunny
slope of Alp or Appenine, the thought of thee
shall summon up sweet visions of the past, and
thy golden sunshine, and soft, vapory

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[figure description] Page 194.[end figure description]

atmosphere become a portion of his day dreams and
of him. Sweet images of thee, and scenes
that have oft inspired the poet's song, shall
mingle in his recollections of the past. The
shooting of the tender leaf,—the sweetness and
elasticity of the air,—the blue sky and the fleetdrifting
cloud, and the flocks of wild fowl,
wheeling in long phalanx through the air, and
screaming from their dizzy height,—all these
shall pass like a dream before his imagination,


`And gently o'er his memory come at times
A glimpse of joys, that had their birth in thee,
Like a brief strain of some forgotten tune.'

It was at the opening of this delightful season
of the year, that I passed through the
South of France, and took the road of Saint
Jean de Luz for the Spanish frontier. I left
Bordeaux amid all the noise and gaiety of the
last scene of Carnival. The streets and public
walks of the city were full of merry
groups in masks,—at every corner, crowds were
listening to the discordant music of the wandering
ballad-singer, and grotesque figures
mounted on high stilts and dressed in the garb
of the peasants of the Landes of Gascony,

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[figure description] Page 195.[end figure description]

were stalking up and down like so many longlegged
cranes;—others were amusing themselves
with the tricks and grimaces of little
monkeys, disguised like little men, bowing to
the ladies, and figuring away in red coats and
ruffles;—and here and there a band of chimney-sweeps
were staring in stupid wonder at
the miracles of a showman's box. In a word,
all was so full of mirth and merrimake, that
even beggary seemed to have forgotten, that it
was wretched, and gloried in the ragged masquerade
of one poor holiday.

To this scene of noise and gaiety succeeded
the silence and solitude of the Landes
of Gascony. The road from Bordeaux to
Bayonne winds along through immense pine
forests, and sandy plains, spotted here and
there with a dingy little hovel, and the silence
is interrupted only by the dismal, hollow roar of
the wind among the melancholy and majestic
pines. Occasionally, however, the way is enlivened
by a market town or a straggling village;
and I still recollect the feelings of delight,
which I experienced, when just after sunset
we passed through the romantic town of

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[figure description] Page 196.[end figure description]

Roquefort, built upon the sides of the green
valley of the Douze, which has scooped out a
verdant hollow for it to nestle in, amid the barren
tracts of sand around.

On leaving Bayonne the scene assumes a
character of greater beauty and sublimity.
To the vast forests of the Landes of Gascony,
succeeds a scene of picturesque beauty, delightful
to the traveller's eye. Before him rise
the snowy Pyrenees,—a long line of undulating
hills,


`Bounded afar by peak aspiring bold,
Like giant capt with helm of burnished gold.'
To the left, as far as the eye can reach,
stretch the delicious valleys of the Nive and
Adour, and to the right the sea flashes along
the pebbly margin of its silver beach, forming
a thousand little bays and inlets, or comes
tumbling in among the cliffs of a rock-bound
coast, and beats against its massive barriers,
with a distant, hollow, continual roar.

Should these pages meet the eye of any
solitary traveller, who is journeying into
Spain, by the road I here speak of, I would

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advise him to travel from Bayonne to Saint
Jean de Luz on horse back. At the gate of
Bayonne he will find a steed ready caparisoned
for him, with a dark eyed Basque girl for his
companion and guide, who is to sit beside him
upon the same horse. This style of travelling
is, I believe, peculiar to the Basque provinces;
at all events I have seen it nowhere else. The
saddle is constructed with a large frame-work
extending on each side, and covered with cushions;
and the traveller and his guide being
placed on the opposite extremities, serve as a
balance to each other. We overtook many
travellers mounted in this way, and I could
not help thinking it a mode of travelling far
preferable to being cooped up in a diligence.
The Basque girls are generally beautiful;
and there was one of these merry
guides, we met upon the road to Bidart, whose
image haunts me still. She had large and expressive
black eyes,—teeth like pearls,—a rich
and sun-burnt complexion, and hair of a glossy
blackness, parted on the forehead, and falling
down behind in a large braid, so long as almost
to touch the ground with the little ribbon,

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that confined it at the end. She wore the
common dress of the peasantry of the South of
France, and a large gipsey straw hat was
thrown back over her shoulder, and confined
by a ribbon about her neck. There was hardly
a dusty traveller in the coach, who did not
envy her companion, the seat he occupied beside
her.

Just at night-fall we entered the town of
Saint Jean de Luz, and dashed down its narrow
streets at full gallop. The little mad-cap postillion,
cracked his knotted whip incessantly,
and the sound echoed back from the high, dingy
walls like the report of a pistol. The coach-wheels
nearly touched the houses on each side
of us;—the idlers in the street jumped right
and left to save themselves; window-shutters
flew open in all directions; a thousand heads
popped out from cellar and upper story; Sacr-r-r
é mâtin!
shouted the postillion,—and
we rattled on like an earthquake.

Saint Jean de Luz is a smoky little fishing
town, situated on the low grounds at the mouth
of the Nivelle, and a bridge connects it with
the faubourg of Sibourne, which stands on the

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opposite bank of the river. I had no time,
however, to note the peculiarities of the place,
for I was whirled out of it, with the same speed
and confusion with which I had been whirled in,
and I can only recollect the sweep of the road
across the Nivelle—the church of Sibourne by
the water's edge—the narrow streets—the
smoky looking houses, with red window-shutters,
and “a very ancient and fish-like smell.”

I passed by moonlight the little river Bidasoa,
which forms the boundary between France
and Spain; and when the morning broke
found myself far up among the mountains of
San Salvador, the most westerly links of the
great Pyrenean chain. The mountains around
me were neither rugged nor precipitous; but
they rose one above another in a long majestic
swell, and the trace of the plough-share was
occasionally visible to their summits. They
seemed entirely destitute of forest scenery;
and as the season of vegetation had not
yet commenced, their huge outlines lay black
and barren, and desolate against the sky.
But it was a glorious morning; and the sun

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rose up into a cloudless heaven, and poured a
flood of gorgeous splendor over the mountain
landscape, as if proud of the realm he shone
upon. The scene was enlivened by the
dashing of a swollen mountain-brook, whose
course we followed for miles down the valley,
as it leaped onward to its journey's end, now
breaking into a white cascade, and now foaming
and chafing beneath a rustic bridge. Now
and then we rode through a dilapidated town,
with a group of idlers at every corner, wrapped
in tattered brown cloaks, and smoking
their little paper cigars in the sun. Then
would succeed a desolate tract of country
cheered only by the tinkle of a mule-bell, or
the song of a muleteer. Then we would meet
a solitary traveller, mounted on horseback,
and wrapped in the ample folds of his cloak,
with a gun hanging at the pommel of his saddle.
Occasionally, too, among the bleak, inhospitable
hills, we passed a rude little chapel, with
a cluster of ruined cottages around it; and
whenever our carriage stopped at the relay, or
loitered slowly up the hill-side, a crowd of
children would gather around us, with little

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images and crucifixes for sale, curiously ornamented
with ribbons, and little bits of tawdry
finery.

A day's journey from the frontier brought
us to Vitoria, where the diligence stopped for
the night. I spent the scanty remnant of daylight
in rambling about the streets of the city,
with no other guide but the whim of the moment.
Now I plunged down a dark and narrow
alley,—now emerged into a wide street,
or a spacious market-place, and now aroused
the drowsy echoes of a church or cloister with
the sound of my intruding footsteps. But descriptions
of churches and public squares are
dull and tedious matters for those readers, who
are in search of amusement and not of instruction;
and if any one has accompanied me thus
far on my fatiguing journey towards the Spanish
capital, I will readily excuse him from the
toil of an evening ramble through the streets of
Vitoria.

On the following morning we left Vitoria
long before day-break, and during our forenoon's
journey, the postillion drew up at a
relay, on the southern slope of the Sierra de

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San Lorenzo in the province of Old Castile.
The house was an old, dilapidated tenement,
built of rough stone, and coarsely plastered
upon the outside. The tiled roof had long
been the sport of wind and rain, the motley
coat of plaster was broken and time-worn, and
the whole building sadly out of repair; though
the fanciful mouldings under the eaves, and
the curiously carved wood-work, that supported
the little balcony over the principal entrance,
spoke of better days gone by. The
whole building reminded me of a dilapidated
Spanish Don, down at the heel and out at
elbows, but with here and there a remnant of
former magnificence peeping through the loopholes
of his tattered cloak.

A wide gate-way ushered the traveller into
the interior of the building, and conducted him
to a low-roofed apartment, paved with round
stones, and serving both as a court-yard and
a stable. It seemed to be a neutral ground
for man and beast;—a little republic, where
horse and rider had common privileges, and
mule and muleteer lay cheek by jowl. In
one corner a poor jackass was patiently

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devouring a bundle of musty straw,—in another
its master lay sound asleep with his saddle-cloth
for a pillow; here, a group of muleteers
were quarrelling over a pack of dirty cards,—
and there the village barber with a self-important
air, stood laving the alcalde's chin from
the helmet of Mambrino. On the wall a little
taper glimmered feebly before an image of
Saint Anthony; directly opposite these, a
leathern wine-bottle hung by the neck from a
pair of ox-horns; and the pavement below was
covered with a curious medley of boxes, and
bags, and cloaks, and pack-saddles, and sacks
of grain, and skins of wine, and all kinds of
lumber.

A small door upon the right led us into the
inn-kitchen. It was a room about ten feet
square, and literally all chimney; for the hearth
was in the centre of the floor, and the walls
sloped upward in the form of a long tapering
pyramid, with an opening at the top for the escape
of the smoke. Quite round this little
room ran a row of benches, upon which sat
one or two grave personages smoking paper
cigars. Upon the hearth blazed a handful of

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faggots, whose bright flame danced merrily
among a motley congregation of pots and kettles,
and a long wreath of smoke wound lazily
up through the huge tunnel of the roof above.
The walls were black with soot, and ornamented
with sundry legs of bacon and festoons of
sausages; and as there were no windows in
this dingy abode, the only light, which cheered
the darkness within, came flickering from the
fire upon the hearth, and the smoky sunbeams,
that peeped down the long-necked chimney.

I had not been long seated by the fire,
when the tinkling of mule bells, the clatter of
hoofs, and the hoarse voice of a muleteer in
the outer apartment announced the arrival of
new guests. A few moments afterward, the
kitchen door opened and a person entered,
whose appearance strongly arrested my attention.
It was a tall athletic figure, with the
majestic carriage of a grandee, and a dark sun-burnt
countenance, that indicated an age of
about fifty years. His dress was singular, and
such as I had not before seen. He wore a
round hat, with wide flapping brim, from
beneath which his long black hair hung in

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curls upon his shoulders; a leather jerkin,
with cloth sleeves, descended to his hips;
around his waist was closely buckled a leather
belt, with a cartouche-box on one side; a
pair of Marmeluke pantaloons of black serge
hung in ample folds to the knees, around which
they were closely gathered by embroidered
garters of blue silk; and black broadcloth
leggings, buttoned close to the calves, and
strapped over a pair of brown leather shoes,
completed the singular dress of the stranger.
He doffed his hat as he entered, and saluting
the company with a Dios guarde á Ustedes,
caballeros,
(God guard you, gentlemen) took
a seat by the fire, and entered into conversation
with those around him.

As my curiosity was not a little excited by
the peculiar dress of this person, I inquired of
a travelling companion, who sat at my elbow,
who and what this new-comer was. From him
I learned that he was a muleteer of the Maragater
ía, a name given to a cluster of small
towns which lie in the mountainous country between
Astorga and Villafranca, in the western
corner of the kingdom of Leon.

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“Nearly every province in Spain,” said he,
“has its peculiar costume, as you will see,
when you have advanced farther into our country.
For instance, the Catalonians wear crimson
caps, hanging down upon the shoulder like
a sack; wide pantaloons of green velvet, long
enough in the waistband to cover the whole
breast; and a little strip of a jacket, made of
the same material, and so short as to bring the
pocket directly under the arm-pit. The Valencians,
on the contrary, go almost naked; a
linen shirt, wide linen trowsers, reaching no
lower than the knees, and a pair of coarse
leather sandals complete their simple garb;
it is only in mid-winter, that they indulge in
the luxury of jacket. The most beautiful
and expensive costume, however, is that of
Andalusia. It consists of a velvet jacket, faced
with rich, and various-colored embroidery,
and covered with tassels and silken cord; a
vest of some gay color; a silken handkerchief
round the neck, and a crimson sash round the
waist; breeches, that button down each side;
gaiters and shoes of white leather; and a
handkerchief of bright-colored silk wound

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round the head like a turban, and surmounted
by a velvet cap, or a little round hat, with a
wide band, and an abundance of silken loops
and tassels. The Old Castilians are more
grave in their attire. They wear a leather
breast-plate instead of a jacket; a montera
cap, breeches and leggings. This fellow is a
Maragato; and in the villages of the Maragater
ía the costume varies a little from the rest
of Leon and Castile.”

“If he is indeed a Maragato,” said I jestingly,
“who knows, but he may be a descendant
of the muleteer, who behaved so naughtily
at Cacabelos, as related in the second chapter
of the veracious history of Gil Blas de
Santillana.”

¿ Quien sabe? was the reply. “Notwithstanding
the pride, which even the meanest
Castillian feels in counting over a long line
of good-for-nothing ancestors, the science of
genealogy has become of late a very intricate
study in Spain.”

Here our conversation was cut short by the
mayoral of the diligence, who came to tell us,
that the mules were waiting; and before many

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hours had elapsed, we were scrambling through
the square of the ancient city of Burgos. On
the morrow we crossed the river Duero and the
Guadarama mountains, and early in the afternoon
entered the “Heroica Villa” of Madrid
by the Puerta de Fuencarral.

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Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth, 1807-1882 [1833], Outre-mer, volume 2 (Hilliard, Gray & Co., Boston) [word count] [eaf258v2].
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