XXIV.
Characteristic scenery of the Mississippi—Card playing—Sabbath
on board a steamboat—An old sinner—A fair Virginian—
Inquisitiveness of Yankee ladies—Southern ladies—A general—
Ellis's cliffs—Mines—Atala—Natchez in the distance—Duelling
ground—Fort Rosalie—Forests—A traveller's remark. 9

XXV.
Land at the Levée—African porters—First impression of passing
travellers—“Natchez under the Hill”—A dizzy road—A rapid descent—
View from the summit—Fine scenery in the vicinity—Reservoir—
A tawney Silenus—A young Apollo—Warriors “hors ducombat”—
Indian females—Mississippian back woodsman—Mansion
House. 17

XXVI.
A northerner's idea of the south-west—Natchez and health—
“Broadway” of Natchez—Street scenes—Private carriages—Auction
store—Sale of a slave—Manner in which slaves view slavery—
Shopping—Fashion—Southern gentlemen—Merchants—Planters—
Whip bearers—Planters' families. 27

XXVII.
First impressions—American want of taste in public buildings—
Agricultural bank—Masonic hall—Natchez academy—Education
of Mississippians—Cemetery—Theatre—Presbyterian church—
Court-house—Episcopal church—Light-house—Hotels—Planters'
Houses and galleries—Jefferson hotel—Cotton square. 36

XXVIII.
Society of Natchez—New-England adventurers—Their prospects—
The Yankee sisterhood—Southern bachelors—Southern
society—Woman—Her past and present condition—Single combats—
Fireside pleasures unknown—A change—Town and country—
Characteristic discrepancies. 45

XXIX.
A Sabbath morning in Natchez—A ramble to the bluff—Louisiana
forests—Natchez under the Hill—Slaves—Holidays—Negroes
going to church—Negro street coteries—Market day—City hotel—
Description of the landing—Rail-way—A rendezvous—Neglected
Sabbath-bell. 52

XXX.
Reminiscences—An aged pastor—Streets of Natchez on the Sabbath—
Interior of a church—Church music—Pulpit oratory—A
New England scene—Peculiar state of society—Wealthy ministers—
Clerical planters—Health of Mississippi—Episcopalian church—
Catholics—The French language—Catholic education—Methodists—
An alarm bell and slaves. 62

XXXI.
Catholic burying-ground—Evening in a grave yard—Sounds of a
busy city—Night—Disturbers of the dead—Dishumation of human
remains—Mourning cards—A funeral—Various modes of riding—
Yankee horsemanship—Mississippian horsemen—Pacers—A plantation
road—Residence—The grave—Slaves weeping for their
master!—New cemetery. 73

XXXII.
National diversities of character—Diversities of language—Provincialisms—
A plantation and negroes—Natchez bar—A youthful
judge—Physicians—Clergymen—Merchants, &c. &c—A southern
mania—“Washing”—Tobacco—Value of cotton planting and statistics—
An easy “way to wealth.” 84

XXXIII.
An excursion—A planter's gallery—Neglect of grounds—Taste
and economy—Mississippi forests—The St. Catharine—Cotton
fields—Worm fences—Hedges—The pride of China—The magnolia
tree and flower—Plantation roads—White cliffs—General view
of a plantation. 96

XXXIV.
Horticulture—Chateaubriand—A Mississippi garden and plants—
A novel scene—Sick slaves—Care of masters for their sick—Shamming—
Interness of negroes—Burial of slaves—Negro mothers—A
nursery—Negro village on the Sabbath—Religious privileges of
slaves—Marriages—Negro “passes”—The advantages of this regulation—
Anecdote of a runaway. 113

XXXV.
Preparations for a deer hunt—A sailor, a planter, and an author—
A deer driver—“Stands” for deer—The hunting ground—The
hunt—Ellis's cliff—Silver mine—An hypothesis—Alluvial formation
of the lower valley of the Mississippi—Geological descriptions
of the south-west. 132

XXXVI.
Geography of Mississippi—Ridges and bottoms—The Mississippi
at its eflux—Pine and table lands—General features of the
state—Bayous—Back-water of rivers—Springs—St. Catharine's
harp—Bankston springs—Mineral waters of this state—Petrifaetions—
Quartz crystals—“Thunderbolts”—Rivers—The Yazoo and
Pearl. 146

XXXVII.
Topography—Natchez—Washington—Seltzertown—Greenville—
Port Gibson—Raymond—Clinton—Southern villages—Vickburg—
Yeomen of Mississippi—Jackson—Vernon—Satartia—Benton—
Amsterdam—Brandon and other towns—Monticello—Manchester—
Rankin—Grand Gulf—Rodney—Warrenton—Woodville—
Pinckneyville—White Apple village. 159

XXXVIII.
Coloured population of the south—Mississippi saddle and horse
caparisons—Ride through the city—Chain gang—Lynch law—
Want of a penitentiary—Difficulties in consequence—Summary
justice—Boating on the Mississippi—Chain gang and the runaway—
Suburbs—Orphan asylum—A past era. 182

XXXIX.
Slave mart—Scene within—File of negroes—“Trader”—Negro
feelings—George and his purchaser—George's old and new wife—
Female slaves—The intellect of the negro—A theory—An elderly
lady and her slaves—Views of slaves upon their condition—Separation
of kindred among slaves. 192

XL.
Towns of Mississippi—Naming estates—The influence of towns
on the social relations of the planters—Southern refinement—Colleges—
Oakland—Clinton—Jefferson—History of the latter—Collegiate
system of instruction—Primary departments—Quadrennial
classes. 204

XLI.
Indian mounds—Their origin and object—Tumuli near Natchez—
Skulls and other remains—Visit to the fortifications or mounds
at Seltzertown—Appearance and description of the mounds—Their
age—Reflections—History of the Natchez. 215

XLII.
Slavery in the south-west—Southern feelings—Increase of slaves—
Virginia—Mode of buying slaves, and slave-traders—Mode of
transportation by sea—Arrival at the mart—Mode of life in the
market—Transportation by land—Privileges of slaves—Conduct of
planters toward their negroes—Anecdotes—Negro traders—Their
origin. 231

XLIII.
Slaves—Classes—Anecdotes—Negro instruction—Police—Natchez
fencibles—Habitual awe of the negro for the white man—Illustrations—
Religious slaves—Negro preaching—General view of
slavery and emancipation—Conclusion. 247