After rowing on about five minutes and almost in a circle, the creek
was so tortuous, we opened all at once upon an extensive natural
basin several acres in extent, in which were anchored five vessels,
three schooners and two brigs. At the peak of one of the brigs, a
handsome bright-sided vessel, floated the Yankeestars and stripes!
As soon as we saw this flag we sprung upon our feet, took off our
caps and swinging them above our heads gave three hearty cheers.
We then seized our oars and pulled strait for the brig. We saw as we
rowed on that the basin was nearly round and on one side stood a
wretched looking village of huts mostly built of reeds and mud.

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Our shouts had drawn to the side of the brig the mate and several
of the crew, who looked at us with no little surprise and curiosity
as we came near. Without a word we pulled under the gangway
ladder, and securing our boat, clambered one after another upon deck.
The mate looked as if he was undecided whether to receive us as
friends or buccaneers. I approached him and said:

`We are four Americans who have escaped from Monte Video,
and seeing your vessel, have come on board to learn where we are and
also have the satisfaction of being once more under our country's flag.'

When I had spoken these words the mate, a fine, clever, whole-hearted
Marble- head man, grasped my hand and said he was very glad
to see us. He shook hands with all round, and then inviting us down
into the cabin, sung out to the steward to cook breakfast for four,
`and see,' he added, `that you get double allowance, for these young
gentleman must be hungry!'

We now told him our story, to which he listened with very great
interest. He then told us that we were in the port of Ensenaca, thirty
miles below Buenos Ayres by water, but only eighteen by land,
and that we had been borne down by the strong current instead of
making that port as we had intended to do. He said the brig was the
Caroline Augusta, commanded by Captain Reed of Boston, son of the
celebrated High Constable Reed. The Captain, he continued, was
then up to the city (Buenos Ayres) where he was transacting business
with his merchants.

We had a capital breakfast and did full justice to the mate's `double
allowance.' After we had finished our meal we all went on deck
and began to hold a consultation as to our further movements. Bedrick
and Fairfax were for leaving the boat at Ensenaca and taking it on
horseback across to the city, as the mate said they could hire a horse
for a dollar each, and a guide to show them the way and bring the
horses back.

Finally, completely tired of the skiff, Bedrick and Fairfax resolved
to quit it and try the land route.

`We shan't get to the city before to-morrow morning, if we do
then,' argued Fairfax, and on horseback we will be less than two hours
going!'

Radsworth and I did not like to leave the skiff and give up before
we had reached the city in her. As we were equally divided, it was
finally settled that they should go up by land, and we by water; that
they would find lodgings for us by the time we come and also meet us
at the quay.

We all went on shore to see our friends off. The place where we
landed was a wretched collection of huts thatched with straw and arranged
with some attempt at the regularity of a single street. There
was one principal shanty around which were sailors, half-bred Indians
and ragged Spaniards. It was the pulpesia orrum-shop of the place.
Near the door were several half-naked quachos, who upon seeing our
approach, came running towards us, crying out each louder than the
other,

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[figure description] Page 083.[end figure description]

`Caballo, senores? tendran ustedes, caballos?' (will you have horses,
gentlemen?)

Fairfax answered in his Spanish that he would like to have two
horses to take him to Buenos Ayres. Each fellow clamoured for the
precedence, and at length a bargain was struck with one of them for
the use of himself and horses at a dollar and a half. In a little while
he brought up two horses with old tattered Spanish saddles strapped
upon theirbacks, the pummel half a foot high. The horses were small,
fierce looking animals with wild eyes, uncombed manes and fet-locks
streaming with hair like a trooper's helmet. They had ropes for
bridles.

Fairfax mounted one of them, though with some misgivings, and
Bedrick the other. Their owner then vaulted upon the back of a
third, and giving a sharp wild cry as a signal, the three horses with
their riders dashed off at a furiousrate. The last we saw of our two
friends for that day was as they were disappearing in a distant jungle,
their heads level with their horses necks, around which they were
clinging as if their necks depended on their hold.

We were very well satisfied with our choice of the skiff, after witnessing
this feat of horsemanship and being told that the three horses
would probably keep up the same speed till they reached the city or
pitched over their own heads.

`And if they tumble down with them,' I asked of one of the bystanders,
`and break their necks?'

`They take a fresh horse at the first rancho,' was the quiet reply
of the man who never seemed to think that the rider might happen to
get his neck broke as well as the horse.

The mate then informed us that horses were scarcely of any value
there. That fine ones could be bought for five and ten dollars; that
they were to be had for the catching; and that they usually rode them,
when they went any distance, till they broke down, when they would
transfer the saddle to another. The plains or pampas, he added, which
every where surrounded the city of Buenos Ayres, and which from
the vessel stretched like a wide ocean of grass before the vision, are
filled with droves of horses and cattle, thousands and thousands of
which are killed, especially the latter, only for their hides. The bee
when it is killed to preserve is hung up in pieces in the air and dried;
for such is the purity of the atmosphere, that nothing taints or putrifies.
In this manner is made all the jerk-beef, such quantities of
which are exported from Buenos Ayres, the meaning of which is
in English, `Good Air!'

We returned on board the brig and passed two or three hours
very pleasantly, and then prepared to resume our voyage in the skiff.
After taking a lunch we got into it once more, and with the hearty
farewells of the mate and crew, we pulled down the creek and
were soon again on the main river. As the wind was fair, though
light, we hoisted our sail and seating ourselves in the stern let the
skiff run along by the shore at about two and a half miles an hour.—
We kept near the land, for the mate had told us that two days before
he had seen from the main-top of the brig a large Brazilian schooner

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of war standing up the river within four miles of the shore. He said
that she kept on her course about a league up the river, and then
hauled her wind and stood over towards Colonia.—This, we at once
decided, must have been the vessel from which we had had such a
narrow escape off Colonia.

The shores along which we sailed were strait and presented to
the eye neither beauty nor variety, Now and then a few stunted
peach trees would relieve the monotonous level line of the banks,
and sometimes they would be broken by a ravine. For twenty
miles there was but a single hut visible, and this was without any
inhabitant. The night at length gathered about us when we were
within about three or four leagues of the city, though we could not
see it. We sailed on by the star-light keeping about half a mile from
the shore. The wind was still very light so that our progress was slow.
At length we were startled and rejoiced to hear the barking of a dog
upon the land. We could see nothing but knew we must be in the
vicinity of some dwelling. By our calculation, we ought to have been
within three miles of the city. We kept on when gradually the banks
of the river carved so as to show ahead of us two or three miles the
dark outlines of domes, towers and ranges of roofs—the whole profile,
though indistinct, of a large city.

Our joy now was boundless. We clapped our hands and hurraed.
As we drew nearer we could see lights sparkling in the distance, and
soon after the deep tone of the cathedral bell tolling for midnight
mass fen solemnly upon our ears. We passed what appeared to us
the mouth of a creek in which we saw several small vessels; and
with the glass I could make out four or five miles off in the outer
roads, several square-rigged vessels at anchor. We knew they were
merchantmen from what the mate had told us. They were anchored
there on account of the shoal water which would not allow vessels of
any size to approach nearer than a league and a half of the town
All cargo was landed in lighters.

Each moment we drew nearer the city, making out more distinctly
in the star-light, its imposing outline—for to the eye Buenos
Ayres is one of the most striking and noble looking cities in South
America. At length the barking of dogs fell upon our ears in deepmouthed
baying, as if hundreds were engaged in this canine pastime.

When we judged we were about a third of a mile from the shore
and were looking to see where we should find the quay, we suddenly
found ourselves aground. Upon trying the depth of water with our
oars, we found that it was scarcely eighteen inches any where within
our reach, and close along side it was scarcely a foot. Supposing that
we had run upon a shoal, we tried to push off, but finding ourselves
fast we concluded to lay there quietly till morning. We, therefore,
threw over our small anchor, and then lowering our sail made as good
a bed of it in the bottom of the boat as we could, and then prepared
to turn in and sleep, both of us, till day light should reveal to us our
true position. In a few minutes we were both snugly ensconced in
the bottom of the skiff. But it was sometime before I could get to
sleep.—The incessant baying, yelping, howling, of at least twenty

[figure description] Page 085.[end figure description]

thousand dogs (for there are one hundred thousand inhabitants and
at least a dog to every five) kept me awake. I had never listened
to such an uproar not even in Monte Video. They made night hideous,
and I began to reflect upon our good fortune in not having to land
by night in the midst of such a ferocious horde as doubtless prowled
in every street and thronged the landing. At one time a band of
them were heard scouring along the shore with a terrific chorus of
howls, and swept on till their voices were lost among the miscellaneous
yelping and baying of the main body. Doubtless they were in pursuit
of some miserable horse or wretched cow. At intervals the deep tolling
of a bell would reach my ear, awakening strange sensations. At
every new sound I would raise my head and look over the edge of the
boat to reconnoitre.

At length gradually overcome with fatigue and watching, I sunk into
a deep sleep from which I was awakened by the splashing of water
and loud shouts. Radsworth and I both sprung to our feet. It was
broad day. The sun had just risen and was shining brightly upon
the domes and towers of the city. I recollect my impression of this
first sight of it. It seemed to me the most magnificent place on
earth with its seven vast domes, and twice the number of lofty
towers with turrets innumerable and vast ranges of battlemented roofs.

But we had no time to admire the novelty of the scene. Close
at hand, the nearest not twenty yards from us, were galloping and
splashing towards us about a score of wild-looking fellows, mounted on
horses wilder looking, if possible, than their riders.