As it is not my purpose to write a history of my voyage, other matters
of more interest calling for my pen, I shall only here and there
touch upon incidents connected with the passage out. The main interest
of my story will be found to commence as we enter the La Plata
River.

How we got across the `Line' I have no idea, for from the time we
reached the third degree north latitude till we got two hundred miles
south of it we had scarcely a breath of air; yet Captain Pright kept
her nose sticking south and south she made her way. We were, however,
nine days accomplishing the five degrees, where calms and storms
forever seem to reign.

I remember that before we came to the equator, about a degree and
a half above it, the north star set in the north. It had been daily, as it
progressed southwesterly, getting lower and lower till it trembled in
the horizon; but when at length night came and I looked from the
deck for `this great light-house of the world,' I felt a sadness and
loneliness come upon my heart as I saw that it had disappeared behind
the round globe. I now, for the first time, realized my distance from
my native land. I felt that I was indeed beneath other skies; and
other skies were really over me and around me. As the northern arch
of the heavens receded from the eye the south lifted its glorious

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universe of constellations to our admiring gaze. The southern cross for
the first time glittered upon our sight with a thousand brighter stars
all unfamiliar to our vision. The Magellan clouds began to rise above
the southwestern horizon and fill our minds with wonder. We
seemed to have passed from one globe to snother, whenever we gazed
upon new heavens, all was so new, so strange, so wonderously beautiful.

The usual custom of paying a tax to `Neptune' upon crossing the
line, was by no means omitted in the present instance. The idea that
something might be done to kill the dullness of the calmness revived
us all. The tribute to the king with the sea-green beard, is paid only
by the `green-ones,' that is, those luckless wights who have never
before `crossed the line.' As the hour approached that the quadrant
told us we should be upon it. all was preparation among us. There
were none in the cabin or steerage, who had ever been across the line,
save the Captain and the mate, and as we were not disposed to tax
ourselves, we combined to select for a victim a `green one' among the
erew, a poor unfortunate loafer who had by some ill-luck shipped in
our brig, though he had never seen salt water before. The sailors all
participated in the sport with that readiness which always characterizes
them when `a lark' is on foot.

One of their number, a good-natured, mischief loving old tar, vol—
unteered to presonate `Old Nep!' We got him down into the steerage
and dressed him for the `part.' In the first place, we covered his
head with a magnificent red turban ingeniously made by means of a
red shirt folded with much taste. In the front of it was stuck a feather
fan, which Hewitt had in his trunk, and which he said had been given
him by `the prettiest girl he had ever seen!' He surrendered it with
manifest reluctance; but the majority prevailed, and he was forced to
yield it for the occasion.

About his cheeks and chin a huge beard woven of oakum was suspended.
It reached to his hips and had a formidable appearance. A
pair of enormous spectacles were out out of a piece of sole leather
and were mounted upon the bridge of his nose. They were without
glasses, but doubtless this was an improvement, as it would be in most
cases where spectacles are set astride the nose, to supply, we fear too
often, the lack oi windows in the brain; for spectacles are the insignia
of windows we believe.

We then manufactured a non-descript garment of old bags for our
Neptune, in style something like an extremely long shirt, around the
bottom was a such fringe a foot deep of oakum. In his right hand we
placed a harpoon, and in his left a tin cup. We had nearly finished
his toilet, when Fairfax came below with his arms filled with sea-weed,
a floating vegetable production with long hairy fibres laden with straw-colored
berries which often covers the sea about the equator for miles,
looking at a distance like an island of yellow sand. This was what we
wanted to complete our character. We trimmed him with it from
head to foot, so that he looked like the genus of the sea clad in his-own
proper regalia.

At length Captain Pright with a smile announced to us that the brig

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was about on the equator, at least within a mile or so of it. This announcement
was made forward, and the `green hand' was called up to
see the line. He took his station on the cat-head and strained his eyes
now ahead, now to penetrate the depth of water, one of them having
suggested that it might have sunk a little under the surface. I had
gone forward to see the joke; and I have never been more amused
with simplicity combined with honest credulity than in this young Vermonter's
case. Faith in the existence of a visible `line,' was plainly
distinguishable in his visage. Thinking it a pity that such hearty
faith should go unrewarded I went aft, and after borrowing the Captain's
spy glass, fastened a black thread across the glass and then called
him to the gangway to take a look through the spy glass and see if he
could not make out `the line!'

`It is very small, just as you see it on the maps,' said I gravely as I
handed him the glass.

He had no sooner fairly got it to his eye than he brought his foot
down upon the deck with a stout thump and opened his countenance
with a broad grin of satisfaction.

`I see it, by jiggers!' was his ever memorable exclamation of unmingled
delight. `It looks for all the world just like it does on the
school-map. Well, I never expected to see the Equator!'

`I hope you are satisfied with the sight!' asked Hewitt drawing up
his nose with a snuffle.

`Yes, I would n't have lost the sight for a quarter of a dollar'

`There is something more for you to see,' I said, quietly drawing his
attention away from the forecastle, out of which I saw `Neptune' coming
to the deck, having gone forward from the steerage between decks.
Between him and `the victim' stood several of the men to screen him
from view till he should get over the bows. He succeeded in getting
over the head-board unseen, and when I saw the top of `Hewitt's fan'
disappear below the bulwark, I asked my man if he had ever heard of
Neptune.

`Oh, yes, I've heard of him afore I come aboard here; and then
I've heard the men talk about him; but don't think I am to be taken
in with that story. I don't believe there's such a chap a-livin'. I know
there's a `line' coz I've seed it through the spyin' glass with my own
eyes, but I ain't quite so green as to believe there's a human half-horse
half-fish kritter as is king o' the sea and lives on the line!'

`You ought not to doubt it,' said Hewitt. `Neptune is a confoundedly
jealous fellow. He might, if he heard you, come and call you to
account.'

`You know,' said Fairfax, `that the line is his toll-gate. If he did
n't choose to let ships go by they wouldn't be able to pass it.'

`What's that little black line! It don't look bigger than a hair!' he
said with incredulous contempt.

`That is nothing. It goes round the world and is stronger than a
chain-cable,' said Radsworth. `He used once to stop every vessel that
went by and made them pay toll!'

`So I heard the men say, but I thought they was gullin' me!' he answered
beginning to believe.

[figure description] Page 042.[end figure description]

`No they were not. But he don't take toll now of any vessels except
they have people on board that never have crossed his dominions.
Then he comes aboard of them and demands toll,' said Fairfax; while
Mr. Bedrick, the Captain and mate, and the tars were seated or standing
near by, loitering and enjoying the joke.

`What kind o' toll does he take? inquired the victim with earnest
interest.

`Grog always,' answered Bill Bedrick. `If there is n't any grog he
then shaves and takes off the beard instead. He has a great fondness
for beards, as you will allow should you ever be on board a vessel that
he should visit.'

`I don't care to be. But I know you are all laughing at me,' he
said half in doubt, half believing.

`Let Neptune himself say whether we are joking,' I called out suddenly
in a loud tone; for I had been made chief manager of the `play.'
As I spoke `the watery god' made his appearance coming over the
bows. To complete his character, the old tar had fairly dipped himself
into the sea, and now came in sight dripping with brine. The representation
was perfect, and startled even Mr. Bedrick and the Captain,
who had never before seen him. The `god' came slowly aft; all eyes
fixed upon the `green hand' alternately. Behind him came two attendants,
covered with sea weed from head to foot. To describe the
look of consternation, surprise, horror and amazement that appeared
upon his face would be impossible. He started back, became as pale
as a sheet and trembled in every limb. He looked round to us for
aid—for sympathy! He saw in all our faces well-feigned looks of fear
and awe.

Neptune came slowly on with heavy tread, and striking his tridant
(harpoon) upon the deck at every step. He came within six feet of us,
acd then looking round, sternly demanded the name of the brig that
had entered his domains. Captain Pright replied promptly.

`Have you any seamen on board who have never before crossed my
territories?'

`I have one only,' answered the Captain.

`You need not point him out. I know the faces of all that I once
have seen. Here stands the man. So, sir mortal what is your name?'

`Seth Bliss,' answered the victim, with a whine of the most pitable
apprehension.

`How old are you?'

`Twenty-three last hayin' time!'

`Have you ever been this far from home before?'

`No, I ain't, and I hope I never 'll be agen. If you 'll let me go
this time, good Mr. Neptune, I'll never come this way again.'

`I must have my toll. Do you see this silver cup?'

`It is a tin one, ain't it, sir?'

`I say do you see this gold cap?' repeated Neptune sternly.

`Yes, I see it. 'T is gold!'

`I want it filled to the brim with grog. This is the toll I demand
of all who cross my domains. Fill it, and then I will let the brig go on
her way.'

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`I hain't any grog, Mr. Neptune. The Capt'n keeps all the grog,
and ony lets us have a gill a day.'

`Then if you have no grog to bestow upon me, I must have your
bread. Seize him, and bind him, and bring me a razor, lather and
hot water! Dare any mortal presume to cross my domains without
preparing himself with the toll that all the world has paid to me from
time immemorial? Seize the presumptuous man, and let me take off
his thin-faced beard for him!'

Two of the sailors, who had attired themselves in sea weed to act as
his attendants, now seized him and placed him in a tub half filled with
sea water. One of them got a piece of an iron hoop and presented it
to Father Neptune: while the other brought a bucket of tar in which
was a swob made of oakum. A volunteer brought, also, a pan of slush.
The victim looked as if he was about to have his throat cut. He called
loudly on us for aid, and then implored `Mr. Neptune' to have mercy.
He loudly entreated the Captain to let him have the grog and take the
value out of his wages! But all his cries were addressed to insensible
ears, sorry am I to say it. His mouth was stopped with the slush with
which his face was well besmeared by a zealous sailor: then followed
a coat of tar with the swob. When he was well lathered `Neptune'
began to shave him with great dignity.

`Don't hurt me, father Neptune,' cried the poor fellow.

`I'll be as gentle as a lady!' and here the iron hoop came down
across his face with an energy that made the victim groan audibly.—
The operation of `shaving' lasted about ten minutes, for the `old man
of the sea' was desirous, as he said, of leaving the face perfectly clean.
At length the operation being ended, the victim was allowed to get up.
Neptune then gave him a few words of good advice, and, followed by
his two minions, who looked like moving monsters of sea weed, disappeared
over the bows as he had come. We now hurried Seth below
to the steerage, both to help the poor fellow relieve himself of his tar,
for Neptune had not proved himself after all a neat barber, and also to
give the sailor who had personated the character an opportunity to
come in-board and descend unseen by him to the forecastle.

We comforted Seth with a stiff glass of grog and with our sympathies.
Nothing was ever said to lead him to doubt the reality of Neptune's
existence, and to this day, these is little question but that he as
firmly believes that there is a Neptune, as he does that there is an
equatorial line!